Appearances deceive at this traditional town house just off Place Royale, a few feet from the cathedral. Inside, it has an updated Art Deco feel with plush eggplant-hued carpets and sleek, chic chairs. Chef Laurent Laplaige, seconded by Frédéric Dupont, finds an outlet for his decorative artistry in colorful food presented on elegant white plates. Stunning specialties range from roast lobster with wild mushrooms and panfried scallops with Thai-perfumed baby vegetables,
to Limousin veal stuffed with peanut butter and sun-dried tomatoes. Dessert dazzlers include a pistachio and cherry flavored crème brûlée.