The West Country Restaurants

The last several years have seen a food renaissance in England's West Country. In the top restaurants the accent is firmly on local and seasonal products. Seafood is the number one choice along the coasts, from Atlantic pollock to Helford River oysters, and it's available in places from haute restaurants to harborside fish shacks. Celebrity chefs have marked their pitch all over the region, including Michael Caines in Exeter and Dartmoor, the Tanner brothers in Plymouth, Rick Stein in Padstow and Falmouth, Mitch Tonks in Dartmouth, and Jamie Oliver in Newquay. Better-known establishments are often completely booked on Friday or Saturday, so reserve well in advance.

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  • 1. Admiral Benbow

    $

    One of the town's most famous inns, the 17th-century Admiral Benbow was once a smugglers' pub—look for the figure of a smuggler on the roof, and (if it's not too busy) ask to see the tunnel used for contraband. There's a good selection of West Country ales, and in the family-friendly dining room, decorated to resemble a ship's officers' mess, you can enjoy pizzas, seafood, and steaks. Seafaring memorabilia, a brass cannon, model ships, and figureheads fill the place.

    46 Chapel St., Penzance, Cornwall, TR18 4AF, England
    01736-363448

    Known For

    • Great historic character
    • Cozy and relaxed vibes
    • Family-friendly atmosphere

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed Mon. No lunch Tues.–Fri.
  • 2. Blas Burgerworks

    $

    This tiny backstreet burger joint consistently draws enthusiastic crowds for its delicious burgers made of pure Cornish beef or vegan and vegetarian ingredients. The lightly toasted buns are baked with sesame seeds (there are gluten-free alternatives), toppings include field mushrooms and wilted spinach, and the skin-on fries are hand-cut. Organic wines and local beers and ciders are also available. There's normally a line outside, but you can phone ahead with your order, and if the limited seating outside is occupied, carry your burgers to the nearby beach—just watch out for the marauding gulls.

    The Warren, St. Ives, Cornwall, TR26 2EA, England
    01736-797272

    Known For

    • Tasty burgers made of pure Cornish beef
    • Long lines (but you can call ahead with your order)
    • Carry-out you can take to nearby beach
  • 3. Eat on the Green

    $

    Opposite the cathedral, this child-friendly tearoom and restaurant spread over two floors is ideal for lunch, coffee, or snacks while you're seeing the sights. You can also sample one of Devon's famous cream teas, served with jam, scones, and clotted cream, or show up earlier for eggs Benedict or a cooked English breakfast. For lunch, try the house salad (with lettuce, avocado, pickled shallots, cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, and pomegranate seeds), a "Devon fire burger," or just a sandwich. There's a good range of vegetarian, gluten-free, and dairy-free options, plus West Country beers and ciders. Tables are available outside in Cathedral Close in fine weather.

    2 Cathedral Close, Exeter, Devon, EX1 1EZ, England
    01392-276913

    Known For

    • One of the most cream teas in town
    • Range of gluten- and dairy-free options
    • Tables in Cathedral Close

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: No dinner
  • 4. Hooked on the Rocks

    $$

    Overlooking Swanpool Beach a mile south of Falmouth, this popular eatery has a lively buzz and a menu that showcases the best seafood to be found in Cornish waters. Plump and juicy scallops from Falmouth Bay, mussels served with baked focaccia, wild prawns in 'nduja sauce, lobster with garlic and herb butter, crab risotto, and plain old fish-and-chips are among the favorite items on the family-friendly menu, while cocktails and mocktails can be ordered at the table or in the adjoining alfresco bar. Staff are young and enthusiastic, and the ambience is relaxed. Book a table on the outdoor terrace for the best experience—Pendennis Castle is visible just across the bay. Swanpool Beach is a stop on the Falmouth Coaster bus route.

    Swanpool, Falmouth, Cornwall, TR11 5BG, England
    01326-311886

    Known For

    • Buzzy beach restaurant
    • Relaxing sea views
    • Fresh, local seafood

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Closed 2 wks in Jan. and Mon.–Wed. in Nov.–mid-Feb.
  • 5. Sam's

    $$

    This small and buzzing bistro has a rock-and-roll flavor, thanks to the walls adorned with posters of music icons. Diners squeeze onto benches and into booths to savor dishes made with local seafood, including a majestic bouillabaisse, or just a simple "Samburger." Steaks and "super salads" are also on the menu. You may have to wait for a table, but there's a slinky lounge-bar upstairs for a preprandial drink.

    20 Fore St., Fowey, Cornwall, PL23 1AQ, England
    01726-832273

    Known For

    • Best burgers in Cornwall
    • Large portions
    • Friendly service

    Restaurant Details

    Rate Includes: Reservations not accepted
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  • 6. The Clifton Sausage

    $ | Clifton

    As the name implies, this casual eatery in the heart of Clifton village specializes in pork products, with special attention given to the humble British "banger." Sausages range from the traditional Gloucester Old Spot to Cotswold lamb, mint, and apricot; pork, leek, and stilton; and beef and ale, and all come with plain mashed potato or "champ" (mashed potato with spring onions). The menu also includes a tender slow-roast pork belly with plenty of crackling and gravy, mushroom, and spinach risotto, and a fish special featuring whatever seafood has been brought in from Cornish ports. The bright, modern restaurant is furnished with solid wooden benches and tables, and has outdoor seating, too. Local beers are served, and dishes are also available as take-outs.

    7–9 Portland St., Bristol, Bristol, BS8 4JA, England
    0117-973–1192

    Known For

    • Range of sausage dishes
    • Local beers
    • Snacks to go

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