Recognizable by the copy of Victoria's imperial crown on the lantern above the central cupola, this institution is always referred to as the V&A. It's a huge museum, showcasing the applied arts of all disciplines, all periods, all nationalities, and all tastes, and it's a wonderful, generous place to get lost in, full of innovation and completely devoid of pretension. Prince Albert, Victoria's adored consort, was responsible for the genesis of this permanent version of the 1851 Great Exhibition, and his queen laid its foundation stone in her final public London appearance, in 1899. From the start, the V&A had an important role as a research institution, and that role continues today.

There are many beautiful diversions: one minute you're gazing on the Jacobean oak four-poster Great Bed of Ware (one of the V&A's most prized possessions, given that Shakespeare immortalized it in Twelfth Night) and the next you're in the celebrated Dress Collection, coveting a Jean Muir frock. As a whirlwind introduction, you could take a free, one-hour daily tour, or a 30-minute version on Wednesday evening. Otherwise, follow your own whims around the enormous space, but updated areas of the museum are worthy destinations.

The British Galleries are an ambitious addition that heralds British art and design from 1500 to 1900. Here you'll see such major pieces as George Gilbert Scott's model of the Albert Memorial, and the first-ever English fork made in 1632, but you'll also discover fascinating facts behind the designs, such as the construction of a 16th-century bed and the best way for women in cumbersome hooped skirts to negotiate getting in and out of carriages. Throughout the galleries are interactive corners for all ages, where you can discover, design, and build -- from your own family emblem to period chairs. The Whiteley Silver Galleries, opened in October 2002, bring more than 500 shining examples of silver together. From ancient medieval reliquaries to the Napoleonic period, to contemporary pieces, it's a stunning collection, and the largest in the United Kingdom.

The Jameel Gallery of Islamic Art opened in 2005 with a fresh display of the museum's collection of Islamic decorative arts: on show are ceramics and fine textiles, portraits from Iran's Qajar period, and the exquisite Erbil carpet, lit up once every 20 minutes for better viewing. The fourth floor Architecture Gallery brings together riches from the RIBA (Royal Institute of British Architects) archives and the V&A's architectural collection. It's a fascinating, interactive space, with architectural models, plans, and manuscripts.

Unchanged, but still spectacular, is the Glass Gallery, where a collection spanning four millennia is reflected between room-size mirrors under designer Danny Lane's breathtaking glass balustrade. The V&A's outstanding glass collection includes a massive Dale Chihuly chandelier in the entrance dome -- the only Chihuly piece on public display in the U.K. Don't miss the pure art, too: the Raphael Galleries house seven massive cartoons the painter completed in 1516 for his Sistine Chapel tapestries (now in the Pinoteca of the Vatican Museums in Rome). The V&A has many interesting lectures, tours, and special events, especially on the late-opening days and weekends -- peruse the Web site before you leave for London. The huge, walk-through shop is the museum in microcosm, and quite the best place to buy art nouveau or arts-and-crafts gifts.

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