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Fodor's London 2014
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Wicked pisco sours and out-of-this-world biodiversity-driven modern Peruvian cuisine by chef Virgilio Martinez have blasted Lima to the top rank of London's new-wave Peruvians. Kick back in an informal sky-lit dining room scattered with cushions and Inca-style stitched banquettes, and put yourselves in the hands of the famously bubbly staff, who'll guide you first to frisky pisco sours, made with clear grape brandy, sugar syrup, bitters, and foamy egg white. Next has to be a killer raw-fish sea bream ceviche, doused in lime-y white tiger's milk ("leche de tigre"), with a tangle of sweet onion and inka corn. Charred chunks of braised octopus on white quinoa with purple botija olive blobs is as vibrant a dish as any, and mains like suckling pig with Amazonian cashews and lentils, or crab with purple corn, 4000m native huayro potato, and red kiwich (an Andean super-grain) will blow you sky high. Hit the stunning 75% cacao Porcelana dessert with mango and wafer-thin blue potato chips to finish, before lolloping your way through the 12-strong pisco-based cocktail list downstairs.
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