Le Gavroche

Le Gavroche Review

"Master Chef" judge Michel Roux Jr. thrives and works the floor at this clubby basement national institution in Mayfair—established by his father and uncle in 1967—and which many still rate to this day as the best formal dining in London. With silver domes and old-fashioned unpriced ladies' menus, Roux's mastery of classical French cuisine hypnotises all-comers with signature dishes like foie gras with cinnamon-scented crispy duck pancake, langoustine with snails and Hollandaise, pig's trotters, or saddle of rabbit with Parmesan cheese. Desserts like Roux's famous chocolate omelet soufflé or upside-down apple tart are equally accomplished. Weekday 3-course set lunches (at £51) are the sanest way to experience such unashamed overwrought flummery—with a half bottle of wine, water, coffee, and petit fours thrown in.