Le Gavroche

Le Gavroche Review

Enthusiastic "MasterChef" judge Michel Roux Jr. thrives and works the floor at this clubby basement national institution in Mayfair—established by his uncle and father in 1967—and which many still rate to this day as the best formal dining in London. With silver domes and old-fashioned unpriced ladies' menus, Roux's mastery of technically-precise and classical French cuisine hypnotizes all-comers with signature dishes like foie gras with cinnamon-scented crispy duck pancake, langoustine with snails and Hollandaise, pig's trotters, or saddle of rabbit with Parmesan cheese. Desserts like Roux's famous chocolate omelette soufflé or upside-down apple tart are searingly accomplished. Weekday 3-course set lunches (£52) are the best and sanest way to experience such unashamed overwrought flummery—with a half bottle of wine, water, coffee, and petit fours thrown in. The decor is 80s-traditional-luxe: some might find it dated, but the V.I.P.s here must adore it.