The Galvin brothers blaze a trail for the deluxe bistro concept on a no-man's-land stretch of Baker Street. Feted chefs Chris and Jeff forsake Michelin stars and cut loose under the brasserie banner. A more mature crowd enjoys impeccable service in a handsome slate floor and mahogany-paneled salon. There's no finer crab lasagna around, and mains punch above their weight: duck with Lyonnaise salad, daube of beef with Vichy carrots, and calves' liver with Alsace bacon are all a triumph. The £17.50 set lunch or dinner (6-7 pm) is unbeatable.
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