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In cosmopolitan San Juan, European, Asian, Middle Eastern, and chic fusion eateries vie for your attention, with family-owned restaurants specializing in seafood or comida criolla (creole cooking, or local Puerto Rican food). U.S. chains such as McDonald's and Subway compete with chains like Pollo Tropical and El Mesón, which specialize in local cuisine. Many of the most innovative chefs here have restaurants in the city's large hotels, but don't be shy about venturing into stand-alone establishments—many concentrated in Condado and along Calles Fortaleza and San Sebastián in Old San Juan. Old San Juan is also home to a number of notable new restaurants and cafés, offering more artisanal-style cuisine—crop-to-cup coffee, rustic homemade pizzas, and creative vegetarian food—at affordable prices. There’s a radiant pride in what the local land can provide, and these enthusiastic young restaurateurs are redefining what Puerto Rican food is, bite by tasty bite.
The dress code varies greatly from place to place, although a restaurant's price category can be taken as a good indication. For less expensive places anything but beachwear is fine; ritzier spots will expect collared shirts and long pants for men ("jacket and tie" requirements are rare) and chic attire for women. When in doubt, do as the Puerto Ricans often do and dress up.
For breakfast outside of your hotel, cafés or panaderías (local bakeries) are your best bets. It's rare for such establishments to close between breakfast and lunch; it's slightly more common for restaurants to close between lunch and dinner. Although some places don't accept reservations, it's always a good idea to make them for dinner whenever possible. This is especially true during the busy season from November through April and on weekends at any time of the year.
Pastry chef Paulina Escanes brings a fresh and refreshing concept to the heart of Condado. Her restaurant turns out dishes inspired by her travels, and many have a Mexican touch, paying homage to her roots. Try the torta de elote, a soufflé-like corn cake stuffed with cheese and charred chile poblano. For dessert, don't pass on the exquisite key lime pie. You can dine outside on the busy, pet-friendly patio or in the dining room, where Scandinavian design meets tropical chic.
The three "B's" in this bright-yellow restaurant's name stand for bueno, bonito, y barato, a common saying that means "good, pretty, and affordable." Tasty and inexpensive—no wonder it's such a hit with everyone from beachgoers to artists to young professionals. Order at the window, and sit at one of the picnic-style tables on the wooden deck. The grouper ceviche is a favorite dish, as is the beef slider on a sweet Hawaiian bun with tamarind and coffee barbecue sauce. A bar and coffee shop are also on-site. Come back at night for cocktails; it's a fun place to mingle with locals.
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