Fodor's Expert Review Hortensia

French restaurants in Tokyo tend to have little in terms of variety, but this restaurant in trendy Azabu Juban is the exception to the rule. The prix fixe lunch allows diners to choose any four dishes on the menu, plus a dessert. For dinner, the varieté meal includes eight courses, each with the course's main ingredient meticulously prepared in two or three ways, such as a lobster claw served with mango confit and lobster meat paired with caviar. While the menu is playful, the dining room is serious, with oversized floral arrangements and black leather banquet seats facing the glass-encased floor-to-ceiling wine collection. The excellent wine list includes new entries from California, Oregon, and Washington in addition to old French standards.