This nostalgic replica of Old Shanghai is part of a chain expanding across Asia, and the old-fashioned setting includes 1950s furnishings and ceiling fans. When it comes to the menu, there are excellent dumplings, including an exemplary version of steamed pork soup dumplings. Entrées run the likes of pork knuckle braised in sweet soy sauce, or braised meatballs ("lion's head"). For dessert, try the Shanghai staple: deep-fried egg white stuffed with banana and mashed red
bean paste. Reserve ahead for the comfortable booths or window tables.