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What was your favorite activity in Paris and which one was a bit of a let-down?

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What was your favorite activity in Paris and which one was a bit of a let-down?

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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 06:09 AM
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What was your favorite activity in Paris and which one was a bit of a let-down?

When you went to Paris, did one place you visited surprise you and made your trip? Or were you really excited about seeing something and were slightly disappointed? Why?

What was your favorite activity or attraction, what was the least impressive? and WHY?

I am hoping to find a few gems from all of you.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 06:41 AM
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One disappointment for me on my recent trip was the St. Martin Canal area. I had been told my many to take a walk along the canal. Well, the area I visited had too many homeless and drunks and I felt very uncomfortable there, so I went to the nearest metro and left the area. I might have started my walk too far north and plan to try it again starting from the Bastille and walk north.

This was my 5th visit to Paris, so there weren't a log of surprises. I loved the markets I visited, enjoyed the places I dined in. Loved the Marais!!

Monica
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 06:49 AM
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On our second trip to Paris we took the Segway tour. It was a lot of fun being the center of attention everywhere we went!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 06:51 AM
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A few years ago I was in Paris alone in the winter and it was raining. I had looked up a self guided tour of the Passages Couvert and decided to do that on a rainy day. It was a great surprise and I discovered a neighborhood I hadn't really known before. I'm not a huge fan of the top of Montmartre near the Sacre Cour. I am a huge fan however of the Paris Walks tours especially the one of Montmartre that is only 10 Euro. Take it. You'll see where the Impressionists live and learn wonderful history. I swear I don't work for them. I just think they do a fabulous job. THe tour helped me discover a neighborhood that before I was indifferent about.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 06:55 AM
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The Canal St Martin is underground from Bastille to Republique,then it is topside. There is a special program going on that provided a 'tent city' to the homeless and this is one area where it is set up. I don't know how long the tent city is meant to be there.

In April we saw a lot of camping tents and what looked like homeless camps along the Seine, alongise the Jardin des Plantes location, along with the acommpanying trash.

PB, the thing about your question is that it is very subjective to each person, what his expectations were and so forth. Those places or sights that were surprising or special to one person might feel contrived to another who purposely seeks out the exact same thing.

I guess I could say that the Conciergerie wasn't 'all that' as far as the interior visit went - but the history of it is pretty interesting.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:01 AM
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I just was not blown away by St. Chapple. I know that some people have been brought to tears buy it's beauty, but I just didn't think it was all that great. I really made a point of going there last trip because I hadn't been and felt it was a "must" and...I don't know, it wasn't that great. I certainly could appreciate the skill of assembling all that glass, but I was like "OK, seen it, time to move on", yawn. I would NOT discourage anyone else from going there because so many people find it fabulous, and you might find it fabulous too. It just didn't do it for me.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:07 AM
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I'll start with my least favourite experience:

On my first trip to Paris, I didn't have much of a plan (the trip was an two-day add-on to a trip to St Petersburg & London). It was early August and boiling hot. Somehow I seemed to end up wandering aimlessly up and down the Champs-Elysees and then through the 1st arr to Les Halles. The two areas seemed so touristy, so jam-packed full of touristy restaurants and the same stores I could see back in Canada - and the temperature made me feel as though I was stuck in a giant dirty frying pan. I couldn't seem to find the charming, narrow streets and interesting buildings I expected to see and it was rather a letdown.

The best experience was probably my third trip to Paris, when I stayed with a friend in the 7th who was studying at the Ecole Nationale d'Administration (ENA). I met her at her apartment and she had an itinerary planned for the evening. We took the metro across the Left Bank and stopped (I can't remember exactly where). She said, "You don't mind if we get out here and walk to the restaurant?" Sure, why not? So we got off the metro and walked across the bridge (at sunset) directly into the Louvre, where she had made a reservation at Cafe Marly for drinks. We sat sipping kir royales, watching the world and feeling very worldly ourselves. She had planned a route that showed Paris at its best and made me feel very welcome.

Ten years later - and we both live here now with our husbands. Now, every trip to the cheese shop, wine shop or patisserie is a daily delight.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:09 AM
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photobear,

You are certainly doing your research. this is one of many posts you have and I applaud your good sense to ask alot of questions!

But I would just caution you nicely to enjoy a little spontaniety in your trip too and let it unfold before you.

Have a wonderful time!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:49 AM
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A couple of ideas....

I'd heard on this forum countless times about the Jaquemart-Andre museum. So last trip I went, and it was indeed worth it. Very interesting building and history (industrialists who created the house as it is today, their art collecting..), and an art collection of high quality. Unfortunately I did not make it to the restaurant, which is also often recommended.

A place I stopped by on the way to the J.A. was the Chapelle Expiatoire, just down the road from the museum. I'm a history buff and had heard of this place. This is where the people beheaded at Place de la Concorde were brought and thrown into a ditch, including Louus XV1 and Marie Antoinette. Eventually the country retrieved the monarchs' bodies and moved them to St Denis, but they built this interesting little memorial chapel at the location. At the time, I could not go down into the crypts. Neat place for a quick visit.

The Arenes de Lutece on the Left Bank is a roman arena that was discovered a few years back. Not a lot left, but a fine place to go for a picnic and there are some neat roman carved stones.

I had hear of the Square Galant, and made it last trip. It is a small park located on the furthest west tip of Ile de la Cite, down below street level. It is also right beside whre you would catch the Vedettes du Pont Neuf Seine cruises. Lush park,with large old trees, rose bushes, and benches to sit on. It offers very nices views of the Seine, and the Louvre right across the River.

The Marmottan is a fabulous small museum, specializing in Monet (but has other Impressionists as well). The downstairs hall has a series of large canvasses of water lilies of his place in Giverny. Not crowded, bit out of the way, but worth a trip. You'll also get to see the 16th, a nice, upscale arrondissement.

I finally made it to Pont des Arts. This is the pedestrian only bridge across the Seine, one bridge west of Ile de la Cite. Nice place to sit, eat your lunch, watch the artists, and offers great views of central Paris.

I always plan a walk around Ile St Louis, then across to the Left, then walk back towards Notre Dame, walking below street level along the Seine. Incomparable views of Notre Dame, away from the traffic, boats passing by. When I do eventually go up to street level, I also like to browse the bouquinistes for old books, prints,etc. There are also some nice reataurants on this street, east of Notre Dame.


I also usually do one nightime classical music concert while I am there. Every night these is a list of concerts given in some of the oldest churches of Paris. I went to a 'candle light' concert at St Chappelle and it was very good. Also have been to one at St Julien le Pauvre, one of the oldest churches in Paris. if you like htis music, a great way to blend it in with a historical setting.

You may have planned on visiting the Musee de la Moyen Age (aka Cluny). This is a museum of the middle ages, with intesting relics, tapestries, stained glass and gargoyles from Notre Dame. An additional point of interest is the building, an old abbey that was built over the ruins of roman baths, which you can still see.

I like the walk Boulevard St Germain, from east to West. You can use it as the main axis, then along the way take detours off of it to see things...like Pantheon, Cluny, Luxembourg Gardens, St Sulpice, St Germain des Pres, and finish at the Orsay. Along the way you will find many cafes (Napoleon, Flore), rue de Buci street market, oldest restaurant in Paris (Procope) on a cobble street, shopping,etc...

I enjoyed Musee de L'Armee and Invalides, but also watching old men play boulles in the park in front of it.

The area aorund Comedie Francaise ( I like the fountain in Place Malraux) is nice to lazily browse around. A must is the Palais Royale, just behind the Comedie. Check out the stiped colums, walk around the arcade cheking out the shops, eat lunch in the park. Nearby is the Louvre des Antiquaires. If you like antiques, this is the place for you (if you won the lattery). Three floors of very high end antique dealers, good window browsing. If this is your thing, Rue Drouot is where they have regular auctions open to the public. Last time I was there watched an auction of antique violins.

The different arrondissments will have farmers markets, on different days of the week. Fresh fruit and vegetables, meat, breads, honeys and jams,etc.. You can also get things like roasted chicken...perhaps a dinner/picnic shopping plan? I did a walking tour of the Marais last trip, and there was a market in front of the Mairie that Saturday....and you could smell the roasted chicken, yum.

I also like the Opera Garnier. You could see a performance there, but I think just a visit is worthwhile. Columns, chandeliers, grand staircase, mirrors, when I think of turn of the century events where 'le tout Paris' comes out in their finest, this is what I would imagine the building to look like.

Place Vendome is worth a quick walk by, to see the world famous Ritz, and across the street the very high end jewellers.


Some thoughts...

Mike
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 07:51 AM
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Biggest surprise, pleasant: Jardin du Luxembourg. Runner-up: Picasso museum.

Biggest surprise, less pleasant (I had no truly negative experiences): Champs-Elysees. Very boring. No, wait -- I was surprised at the seediness of Rue St-Denis, and the old prostitutes there, and the fellow who screamed abuse and nearly attacked me when I got my camera out (to take a picture of the street, not the prostitutes!)
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 08:01 AM
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Favorites:

• The race courses and racing at Longchamp, Chantilly & St. Cloud — Lovely settings, beautiful horses, engaged, well-mannered fans, the occasional winning ticket.

• The smaller museums — Musée Rodin, Musée Picasso, the Orangerie, Musée Marmottan, Musée du Luxembourg, Musée Zadkine (quiet sculpture garden in the heart of the city).

• Paris cemeteries — Pere Lachaise, Montparnasse, Montmartre — not just the gravesites of the famous, but the touching tributes — sculpture, stained glass — to everyday citizens, and the war and Holocaust memorials. (I discovered Dalida, an Egyptian-born Parisian chanteuse who committed suicide 20 years ago last month. There was a massive floral tribute to her at her tomb in Montmartre, commemorating her passing. Who knew?)

• Public art that you come upon and don’t expect — including the sculpture (Zadkine once more) in the Luxembourg gardens.

• Restaurants — Willi’s Wine Bar, Les Ombres, Chez Maitre Paul, Chez Henri, Le Florimond, Ze Kitchen Galerie, Le Petit Troquet, Yugaraj, and — I’m cheating here because I’m talking side trips — Le Musardiere (Giverny — an exquisite chicken and cheese crepe), and La Vielle Maison (Chartres — ate lunch there two years ago, ate lunch there twice last month and the real reason I went to Chartre twice this time, notwithstanding the beauty of the cathedral and my desire to buy stained glass artwork, which I fulfilled. Anyway, La Vielle Maison is my favorite restaurant in or out of Paris, period.

Let-Downs:

• The Louvre — It’s such a zoo, and I’m older and crankier now.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 08:04 AM
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I agree that this is very subjective!
After my very first trip to Paris as a 13 yr old I remembered the Ste.Chappelle as a highlight so I was pleased that both my kids said 'Wow' when we went there last summer. It was a very bright sunny morning and the windows were dazzling. The colours are very intense and there is so much stained glass for a small church that it felt like being inside a kaleidescope.

The Louvre is very pretty when it's lit up at night. I'd only seen it by day until I saw a photo of it at night online and made a point of seeing it myself.

Not much disappoints me in Paris except maybe the golden arches, M on the Champs Elysees!
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 08:11 AM
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Highlight - One year a friend who lives in the 14th let us have her apt while she went home to the US for Christmas. On a rainy day we ducked into the Centre Pompidou and found a book of all the art deco and art nouveau buildings in Paris. It was in English and had descriptions, photos, address, directions of each property. So every day my husband (who is an architect) and I would seek out these architectural gems. One morning we were looking at a Corbusier Building and a tenant was leaving and let us in to see the hallway. That was a highlight. And finding out about Robert Mallet-Stevens and the entire street of his buildings.

Disappointment? I have to say the Louvre. It is too big, too much to see and I just end up being bored with it all after about the umpteenth room.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 08:17 AM
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Thank you all...I really want our 9 days in Paris to be special but I don't want to overplan.

I also want to recognize a diamond in the rough if we happen upon it. I would hate to walk right past something amazing just because I did not know what it was.
From all your suggestions here, I will be much more informed.

Great stories everyone, I love to hear about your trips. Makes me feel like I was there.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 08:24 AM
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I was in awe of the arc de triomphe up close, but Champs-Elysees itself was rather uninspiring, especially when you see Gap and Sephora and other stores we have in US. I would say skip it.

Ste. Chapelle, Rodin Museum and Musee d'Orsay were all wonderful. Just walking along the Seine next to all the outdoor book vendors is a great experience. The Luxembourg Gardens are also lovely for a stroll.

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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 08:42 AM
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I like Paris and almost every place there. so, I agree with all things that have been listed here as favorites. I want to add some:
- museums Camondo, Cernuschi and Orangerie
- Park Bagatelle in May and the exibition there "Roses and Sevres Porcelain" with the exposition
- the exibition of rare Lalique jewelleries at Luxembourg museum (it is open till middle of July)
- the visit of Hotel de Ville (City Hall (you have to phone in advance).

I did not find anything interesting or nice on Rue de Cler (I was here because I found many recommendations in this forum).

I also was not very impressed by Conciergerie.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 09:03 AM
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Yes, subjective indeed! One surprise for me was the maritime museum - beautiful paintings by Armenian artists in April, fascinating model ships (including one with a photo-optic tour of the inside you could watch on television). I also enjoyed the pariscanal 3-hour boat tour up the Canal St. Martin (especially the underground part, which was spooky and mysterious and beautiful). My favorite activity was just wandering around, eating where we felt like eating, stopping where we felt like stopping, remembering to look up at all the beautiful buildings, being surprised by things. Contrary to others, while I liked the Jacquemart-Andre Museum itself, I found the cafe to be dismal (beautiful inside, though), overpriced, lukewarm tea, and not user-friendly.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 09:15 AM
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Favorite: Musee d'Orsay.
Let down: Picasso Museum.
Surprise: Hôtel de Soubise.

The Hôtel de Soubise was regally appointed with gifts from Louis XIV to the wife of François de Rohan. Why gifts to her?
Payments.

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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 09:30 AM
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We've been to Paris many times, but this was the first time we went up to the top of Arc de Triomphe at night, which was just beautiful. If you get a museum pass, this is free and there's an elevator to the top, if you don't want to climb. It's a nice way to fit in one more thing at night with your pass.

I agree with wanderful about the Louvre. We've been several times, but in our month-long stay, we never had a desire to go back, even though we went to museums nearly every day. Yet I don't feel that way about the Met in New York, which is also massive.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2007, 10:28 AM
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I love all the gardens and how local people use them so much. Beautiful days just sitting in Luxembourg Gardens and the Tuileries both. Even the lawn in front of the Eiffel Tower was goood.
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