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Where to go in the FL Keys

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My husband & I (in our mid forties) have always wanted to go to the Keys. We like the "laid-back" lifestyle that the islands seem to portray. But we have heard that certain areas can be kind of "trashy". We need suggestions on which island to go to for our anniversary trip. We like to snorkel, hike, fish, kayak, and relax. We don't like clubbing but love restaurants with tons of atmosphere & great food. Please help us decide where to stay.

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