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Trip Report: Long Wekeend on California's Central Coast

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Trip Report: Long Wekeend on California's Central Coast

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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 11:59 AM
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Trip Report: Long Wekeend on California's Central Coast

We spent four days based in Pismo Beach, exploring the coast and nearby wine regions. It was the perfect long-weekend getaway and we had a fantastic time. I’m posting a trip report for anyone who may be headed to the area. Whether you're a California resident or visiting the state on vacation, the scenic central coast is a great place to relax and unwind and is a very memorable destination.

DAY ONE

We drove from Los Angeles to Pismo Beach, stopping for lunch in Solvang. Spring is the most gorgeous time of year to do this drive. Once you pass Santa Barbara, the hills are green and mustard flowers and poppies line the highway. The scenery is fantastic and getting out of the city into the countryside makes me remember why I love my home state so much. We made a quick stop in Solvang for lunch. Even though it’s a total tourist trap, I have nostalgic memories of passing through Solvang on the way to Hearst Castle as a kid. It was fun to see the town again and walk around downtown a little bit. We had lunch at Panino, which I’d chosen based on good reviews on Chowhound.com. It was fantastic (review below) and we enjoyed sitting outside in the sunshine with our sandwiches. Afterward, we walked over to Danish Mill Bakery (review below) and picked up a couple of cookies before getting back on the road.

We arrived in Pismo Beach about 4pm and pulled into our hotel, The Cliffs. We’d purchased a package at Luxurylink.com that included 3 nights at The Cliffs in an oceanfront suite, a bottle of local wine and gourmet cheeses in suite after arrival, buffet breakfast for two each morning, a map of local wineries and vineyards, free 1/2 bottle of wine with entree purchase at Marisol restaurant (on site at the hotel), a $20 gift card to a wine store in San Luis Obispo, plus chocolates and a bottle of wine on our final evening, all for a very good price. Not bad, right? While I don’t think The Cliffs is a true “luxury hotel,” the service and views we experienced were so extraordinary as to make the little issues (hard to open patio doors, outdated shower) unimportant. When we opened the door to our hotel we were greeted with the most stunning ocean view. We could see all the way up and down the coast. It was just gorgeous. The room was spotless and the furniture was tasteful. There was a big chaise lounge on the balcony, along with two chairs and a table. We were able to take our complimentary wine and cheese out on the balcony and enjoy the beautiful sunset. A few hours later we had dinner at the hotel’s restaurant Marisol (review below), which wasn’t our favorite meal of the trip but a pleasant way to end a long day.

RESTAURANTS:

Panino (Solvang)- We read good reviews of this little sandwich shop online and were not disappointed when we tried it in person. You order at the counter and a staff member brings your sandwich order to your table, on the big, sunny patio just outside the shop. I ordered the turkey pesto sandwich, which was absolutely wonderful. My husband ordered the chicken curry sandwich and a side of tomato soup. He liked the sandwich better than the soup, but was pleased overall. I would definitely dine here again when in Solvang. Great food at good prices.

Danish Mill Bakery (Solvang)- I was sort of astonished by the cost of the pastries at Danish Mill. I passed up the $4 eclairs and bought a small butter cookie with pineapple filling for $1.50 and thought it was pretty tasty. Not in an “OMG, I have to have another” kind of way, but it was fine. My husband bought a chocolate chip cookie and said it wasn’t great, but I told him that’s what he gets for ordering a chocolate chip cookie in a Danish bakery. Ha!

Marisol (Pismo Beach)- The interior is Spanish-inspired and a little old fashioned, but it’s been nicely maintained. On Friday night, the happy hour was in full swing when we arrived, and we declined to stand in the long line at the bar for pizza and drink specials. We came back later in the evening and had dinner in the dining room. We ordered several small plates to share: the fish tacos, calamari, clam chowder and French fries. While the service was good, we were underwhelmed by the food. The calamari was probably the best of the bunch, but the fish tacos were terribly disappointing and drowned in an unappealing sauce. The restaurant also has some very strange entertainment in the dining room. A pretty young woman wanders around with a microphone doing karaoke to background music, and the song selection was painful (Wind Beneath My Wings, I Will Always Love You, pretty much everything from the Celine Dion catalogue). I noticed that some of the older diners seemed to enjoy it, but we found it somewhat painful. Our dinner experience at Marisol was sub-par, but we loved the breakfast buffet put on by the hotel each morning. Granted, it was part of our package at The Cliffs and we weren’t paying for it, but we really enjoyed the made-to-order waffles and omelets, the fresh fruit and crispy bacon. Who cares about clogged arteries, we are on vacation! Service was quite good in the mornings, as well.
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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 12:00 PM
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DAY TWO

We spent this day lounging around our hotel and exploring downtown Pismo Beach. Our package at The Cliffs included complimentary breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant, Marisol. Whereas we’d been underwhelmed by the dinner entrees there, we were pleasantly surprised by the breakfast buffet. The foods weren’t anything fancy, but the made-to-order waffles and omelets were just the thing and completely delicious. After breakfast we went for a long walk on the beach, admiring the views of the coastline and the incredible geology of the area. This was followed by a dip in the pool. For lunch, we walked down the oceanfront path in front of the hotel to DePalo & Sons. DePalo & Sons in Pismo Beach is a gourmet grocery store that is so divine it absolutely should not be missed if you’re in the area. From the homemade tamales and manicotti to the made-to-order sandwiches and bakery case filled with fresh cookies, this is a foodie paradise. The star attraction at DePalo’s, however, is the mozzarella, made fresh each morning at 5am. You need to experience this mozzarella, you really do. (Complete review below)

The rest of our day was spent reading books on our balcony and being incredibly, luxuriously lazy. In the late afternoon, a heavy fog rolled in and settled over Pismo. We drove downtown to explore the city and found the beach and pier completely obscured by fog. On a Saturday night, downtown Pismo Beach is filled with locals and tourists hopping between local bars and restaurants. Hotspots included the local bowling alley and pool hall. The city has a definite blue collar vibe, and it’s a place that seems not to have changed significantly for some time. It’s also not a town with many modern or gourmet food options. You won’t find celebrity chefs and fusion foods. The fare here is traditional. For our dinner, we debated long and hard between Rosa’s and Giuseppe’s , two Italian restaurants that get excellent reviews on Chowhound.com and Fodors.com. The wait for a table at Giuseppe’s was nearly an hour long, so we decided to dine at Rosa’s. While we had a nice experience and didn’t regret our choice, I have a hunch that we would have preferred the food at Giuseppe’s. (Review below)

RESTAURANTS:

DePalo & Sons (Pismo Beach) De Palo’s is the mother of all gourmet groceries. I absolutely loved this place. They have a large wine section with a very good selection of wines. The bakery case near the entrance features some yummy pastries (the snickerdoodle cookie being the best, in my opinion). But it’s really the deli counter in the back that has the wow factor. The display of fresh meats, pastas and prepared foods is just mouth watering. We ordered sandwiches for lunch one day, and I chose the “three sisters,” which consists of three smaller sandwiches: sopresota & mozzarella, ham & swiss and turkey & brie. They were all fantastic, but anything made with De Palo’s homemade mozzarella is a slam dunk. That stuff is just incredible. On another trip to De Palo I ordered the turkey sandwich with cranberry chutney and it was fantastic, too. We picked up gifts to take home, as well. They have all sorts of boxed candies, chocolates and other goodies that make nice gifts.

Rosa’s (Pismo Beach) The interior of this restaurant is warm and inviting and the service is excellent. We’d read a lot of good reviews of Rosa’s and understand that it has been a Pismo Beach landmark for some time. We only wish we’d enjoyed the food more. My husband’s pesto chicken pizza was good but not particularly special, but I was really disappointed in the butternut squash ravioli that I ordered. They were absolutely drowned in a thick cream sauce and were so rich that I could only eat a couple of them. The white chocolate brownie we ordered for dessert was delicious, and I was impressed with the wine list. I wouldn’t say not to dine here because we really did like everything except our entrees. I’d just advice skipping the butternut squash ravioli.

Doc Burnstein’s Ice Cream Emporium (Arroyo Grande) While we didn’t actually make it to the ice cream parlor itself, as we’d wanted to, I feel that I should mention Doc Burnstein’s since we ate their ice cream in other places. It was served at our hotel, both at the restaurant as a dessert and in the lobby, where you could pick up ice cream bars and sandwiches as snacks. The ice cream was quite good. We’re just sad we didn’t make it to Arroyo Grande to get it fresh and in any number of flavors. Next time, for sure.
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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 12:00 PM
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DAY THREE

This was our “get out and explore” day. I was so excited to check out the wineries in the nearby Edna Valley. While this wine growing region isn’t as large and popular with tourists as the Paso Robles area to the north, it is absolutely worth a visit. Surrounded by beautiful green hills and covered in grapevines, the Edna Valley is producing some fantastic wines and you can sample them in at the vineyards’ homey and welcoming tasting rooms. These tasting rooms are lower key than some of the crowded, over-the-top wineries in Paso Robles, and you’re sure to experience good service and pleasant conversation. We did our wine tasting on a weekend, and although we started early at 11am, we were surprised by how easy it was to get in and out of the wineries and how genuinely interested the tasting room staff were at showing off their vintages. We visited the following tasting rooms:

Edna Valley Vineyard
Baileyana Winery
Tolosa Winery

Edna Valley Vineyard was probably my favorite. The tasting room has the most amazing view out onto the vines and the people working there were really nice and good at describing the various wines we tasted. Tolosa has a very modern, cool design and I had a great conversation with the woman who poured for us in the tasting room. Was sort of lukewarm on the wines I tried, but I’d go back and try some more the next time we visit the area. Baileyana has a lovely tasting room, set in a historic schoolhouse. I loved their chardonnay and sparkling rose. However, the woman working in the tasting room was kind of standoffish and didn’t make me feel very welcome.

We drove out of the Edna Valley into San Luis Obispo, where we stopped to check out the historic mission and have some lunch. Downtown San Luis Obispo is really lovely and completely walkable. We found free parking near the mission and were able to leave our car there and explore the city on foot. Mission San Luis Obispo de Tolosa is beautiful and definitely worth seeing. Founded in 1772 and built primarily between 1793 and 1794, it’s topped by a bell tower and the interior walls are painted with a ring of brightly colored flowers. The small garden behind the mission is also lovely, featuring a well, a display of old bells and native flowers and plants. We walked down Higuera Street and did a little window shopping. We checked out Firestone Grill, which is very popular with the local college kids and filled with large TV screens showing sporting events, but decided to eat lunch across the street at Woodstock’s Pizza. If you like pizza and you happen to be in San Luis Obispo, look no further. (Review below). After lunch we stopped in at Central Coast Wines to redeem my gift card. They had a great selection of local wines and I ended up choosing a bottle of Baileyana’s chardonnay. We hopped back in the car and headed north to Paso Robles. We only had time for two wineries in Paso Robles. These are the ones we visited:

Eos Estate Winery
Eberle Winery

I really wanted to see Eos Estate in Paso Robles, because I’d read that the winery is completely solar powered. How cool is that? The entire vineyard and the tasting room are powered by a bunch of solar panels, and you can see the panels and read about their effectiveness as you tour the property. The tasting room is huge and was fairly busy when we were there, but the staff was fantastic and gave us lots of personal attention. I was able to taste seven wines here, and there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch. The grounds are also very nice and we enjoyed walking around and exploring. We stopped by Eberle just quickly. They were having an outdoor barbeque, complete with band and couples on a dance floor, so the winery was crowded and the vibe just wasn’t very “us.” They have a great outdoor deck with views over the vines. We also enjoyed walking through their caves underneath the winery.

After leaving Paso Robles we drove out to Morro Bay. It was an absolutely beautiful drive through the greenest hills you can imagine (the hills in this area are evidently called Irish Hills, and having been to Ireland, I can see why). We parked at the wharf, took some photos of the famous rock, and then drove into the State Park and enjoyed views of the coastline. Morro Bay is fairly scenic, sort of what you’d expect of a touristy seaside town, and while I didn’t feel the need to spend a ton of time there, I was glad we went and saw it.

We were tired after returning to our hotel, so instead of heading downtown for dinner we walked down to DePalo & Sons again and took home some pasta. It was a long but really wonderful day!

RESTAURANTS

Woodstock’s (San Luis Obispo)- The pizza here was really, really good. They do this funny thing with the crust where they fold it onto itself, and while I was skeptical about this, it tasted delicious. The crust was wonderful, the sauce just perfect, the cheese and toppings applied in just the right amounts. No complaints whatsoever about the food. The atmosphere is decidedly casual. You order at the counter and then a waiter brings the pizza to your table. There are a couple of large televisions for sports viewing, but the crowd seemed more focused on conversation than the game.
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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 12:01 PM
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DAY FOUR

I was so tempted to extend our reservation for several more days, but alas, we really needed to get home. We enjoyed some final ocean views on our balcony and then checked out of the hotel at noon. We drove into downtown Pismo Beach to pick up some cinnamon rolls at Old West Cinnamon Rolls, which were absolutely decadent. As we passed through Arroyo Grande we stopped quickly at Laetitia Vineyards. The winery is really beautiful, with an expansive tasting room and beautiful little seating areas overlooking the vines. I would have liked to stay longer. We got back on the road, stopping in Santa Barbara to walk out on the pier and watch the kids at the skate park for a bit, and then headed home. It was a wonderful getaway. I only wish it had been longer! I would definitely return to the central coast for a relaxing trip, and look forward to exploring more of the area in the future.

RESTAURANTS

Old West Cinnamon Rolls- Located in a totally unfancy storefront on Pismo’s main drag, Old West Cinnamon Rolls is a local favorite. It’s the kind of place that has old arcade games in the back and will serve you black coffee, not some fussy latte, in a white Styrofoam cup. Their glass bakery case features a wide array of cinnamon roll varieties. We took a frosted roll and a pecan roll to go. Delicious! They also sell their dough, so you can make your own at home. If you like cinnamon rolls- and really, who doesn’t?- look no further.
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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 12:07 PM
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Sharing a few photos...

Walking along the bluff near our hotel in Pismo: http://tinyurl.com/ygrvttz

The beach at The Cliffs: http://tinyurl.com/yzsnsab

Heading to Edna Valley Winery: http://tinyurl.com/yf56s9n

Inside the mission in San Luis Obispo: http://tinyurl.com/ylaf68q

Eberle Winery: http://tinyurl.com/yjwg8zp

Eos Estate Winery: http://tinyurl.com/yg6cz2w

Morro Rock: http://tinyurl.com/yexhr3p

Laetitia Vineyards: http://tinyurl.com/ybp56sb

View from the restaurant at The Cliffs: http://tinyurl.com/ye64x9l
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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 12:16 PM
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Wonderful Trip Report! Bookmarking for future reference. Thanks for sharing your time with us.
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Old Apr 7th, 2010, 12:23 PM
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I'm also going to save this -- we're always looking for long weekend destinations in driving distance of San Francisco. Sounds great!
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Old Apr 9th, 2010, 01:11 PM
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Sounds perfect! We stayed at The Cliffs for the second time this past Jan. For a great dinner next time go to Lido @ the Dolphin Bay Resort, you can walk there from the Cliffs along the path in the back. We also enjoyed strolling around downtown SLO, Novo was the perfect choice for our lunch. Thanks for the report back! ***kim***
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Old Apr 10th, 2010, 08:14 AM
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Thanks, Erin. Pismo is really nice, but I also love staying in Paso Robles. Great wine tasting...
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