Savannah spur of the moment report
Nov 12th, 2007, 07:57 AM
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Savannah spur of the moment report
Sometimes a great trip opportunity just lands in your lap and can’t be refused. That is how I got to spend four nights in Savannah, GA, last week. I’d like to share some great finds.
My girlfriend had a business trip and asked if I’d like to go along, my husband said have a great time, and I had the time available. Serendipity!
Savannah is a port city and it is key to know its geography. There is River Street, a fun and rowdy strip of nightclubs, restaurants, hotels and shops along a cobbled street and attractive riverfront. As a working port, the river is busy with cargo ships and pleasure craft. The multi-story buildings of River Street back up to the steep bluff that rises from the river. These buildings have two faces: the lower floors face the river; the upper floors face the city. A network of cobblestone ramps and ironwork staircases connect the two levels of the city.
Our hotel, The River Street Inn, opened to River Street on its first floor, and Bay Street on its fourth floor. One of its several advantages is elevator access between River and Bay Streets. The Inn was a great location to explore the city, and its history as part of the cotton trade gives it an atmospheric charm. Plus, they offered a nightly happy hour to guests, with complimentary beer, wine and snacks, each evening of our stay. Very gracious staff and charming rooms.
The Inn itself is on the National Register of Historic Places and part of the Historic Hotels of America.
At the time of our stay our hotel was undergoing some extensive renovation work. Our room looked to be recently decorated and the front of the building was covered with scaffolding. Somehow, this work did not disturb our stay.
In fact, Savannah itself has a great deal of construction going on. I was particularly impressed with a huge job, an effort to restore one of the historic squares for which Savannah is famous. Ellis Square had been destroyed for a parking deck years ago. The deck has been torn down, underground parking is being created, and the finished job will include a beautiful green space in keeping with the character of the city.
Things to do: Walk, walk, walk. This is a walking paradise if (and this is important) you have great shoes. Not simply flats, you want sturdy, thick-soled shoes. The city is very flat so you don’t have hills to contend with but the ancient paving materials can be tough on your feet and ankles. You’ll experience brick, cobblestone, ballast rocks, and that amalgam of crushed oyster shell which (I think) is called tabby. Ouch. Good shoes and plenty of rest stops—that’s the way to go.
Here are some highlights. Each square seems to be more beautiful than the one before. Live oak trees provide shade and park benches invite you to rest. Historic markers explain the historical significance of the area and the architectural highlights.
Colonial Park Cemetery at Abercorn and Oglethorpe was operated from 1750 to 1853 and brings home the story of Savannah’s role in the war of Independence. I was moved at the graves of the Habersham Family: the father was an ardent loyalist and his sons were patriots.
Franklin Square is near the City Market. Look for the monument to the Chasseurs Volontaires de Sainte Domingue. These were Haitian free men who volunteered to help fight for American Independence during the siege of Savannah in 1779.
Along Bay Street lies Emmitt Park, dedicated to the Irish patriot. You’ll see a Celtic Cross with the inscription, “To Americans of Irish Descent, Past-Present-Future, Erin Go Bragh”. Savannah is proud of its Irish-American heritage. I’d like to learn more about that because I am not sure how it corresponds with the Oglethorpe’s (the founder) decidedly anti-Catholic philosophy.
Another lucky stop was at Trinity United Methodist Church, the first and oldest Methodist church in Savannah. It has a particularly beautiful sacristy and a massive pipe organ, which was in use when I visited. It was great! I was alone in the church except for the unseen organist who was thumping out familiar hymns.
All of this nattering about history and culture might give you the impression that Savannah is a museum itself. Not so! This is a vibrant youthful city. Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) contributes to this atmosphere with its 7300 students and many many buildings scattered throughout the city.
Savannah is the seat of Chatham County and I have already mentioned the busy port. Add the tourism business and there is a lot going on. Specifically, there is a lot of shopping going on. And entertainment. I’ll post this write up and try to get back soon with an accounting of our shopping and restaurant forays, also a side trip to Tybee Island, and some notes on what I’ll do differently next time I visit.
I hope this information helps with someone else’s trip planning. Here’s a side story. I was asking a restaurant proprietor for a business card and a paper menu. I explained that I like to post my travel notes on the internet. A bystander said, “Oh, you are one of those people who actually contribute to travel forums, thank you!” I thought that was nice.
My girlfriend had a business trip and asked if I’d like to go along, my husband said have a great time, and I had the time available. Serendipity!
Savannah is a port city and it is key to know its geography. There is River Street, a fun and rowdy strip of nightclubs, restaurants, hotels and shops along a cobbled street and attractive riverfront. As a working port, the river is busy with cargo ships and pleasure craft. The multi-story buildings of River Street back up to the steep bluff that rises from the river. These buildings have two faces: the lower floors face the river; the upper floors face the city. A network of cobblestone ramps and ironwork staircases connect the two levels of the city.
Our hotel, The River Street Inn, opened to River Street on its first floor, and Bay Street on its fourth floor. One of its several advantages is elevator access between River and Bay Streets. The Inn was a great location to explore the city, and its history as part of the cotton trade gives it an atmospheric charm. Plus, they offered a nightly happy hour to guests, with complimentary beer, wine and snacks, each evening of our stay. Very gracious staff and charming rooms.
The Inn itself is on the National Register of Historic Places and part of the Historic Hotels of America.
At the time of our stay our hotel was undergoing some extensive renovation work. Our room looked to be recently decorated and the front of the building was covered with scaffolding. Somehow, this work did not disturb our stay.
In fact, Savannah itself has a great deal of construction going on. I was particularly impressed with a huge job, an effort to restore one of the historic squares for which Savannah is famous. Ellis Square had been destroyed for a parking deck years ago. The deck has been torn down, underground parking is being created, and the finished job will include a beautiful green space in keeping with the character of the city.
Things to do: Walk, walk, walk. This is a walking paradise if (and this is important) you have great shoes. Not simply flats, you want sturdy, thick-soled shoes. The city is very flat so you don’t have hills to contend with but the ancient paving materials can be tough on your feet and ankles. You’ll experience brick, cobblestone, ballast rocks, and that amalgam of crushed oyster shell which (I think) is called tabby. Ouch. Good shoes and plenty of rest stops—that’s the way to go.
Here are some highlights. Each square seems to be more beautiful than the one before. Live oak trees provide shade and park benches invite you to rest. Historic markers explain the historical significance of the area and the architectural highlights.
Colonial Park Cemetery at Abercorn and Oglethorpe was operated from 1750 to 1853 and brings home the story of Savannah’s role in the war of Independence. I was moved at the graves of the Habersham Family: the father was an ardent loyalist and his sons were patriots.
Franklin Square is near the City Market. Look for the monument to the Chasseurs Volontaires de Sainte Domingue. These were Haitian free men who volunteered to help fight for American Independence during the siege of Savannah in 1779.
Along Bay Street lies Emmitt Park, dedicated to the Irish patriot. You’ll see a Celtic Cross with the inscription, “To Americans of Irish Descent, Past-Present-Future, Erin Go Bragh”. Savannah is proud of its Irish-American heritage. I’d like to learn more about that because I am not sure how it corresponds with the Oglethorpe’s (the founder) decidedly anti-Catholic philosophy.
Another lucky stop was at Trinity United Methodist Church, the first and oldest Methodist church in Savannah. It has a particularly beautiful sacristy and a massive pipe organ, which was in use when I visited. It was great! I was alone in the church except for the unseen organist who was thumping out familiar hymns.
All of this nattering about history and culture might give you the impression that Savannah is a museum itself. Not so! This is a vibrant youthful city. Savannah College of Art and Design (SCAD) contributes to this atmosphere with its 7300 students and many many buildings scattered throughout the city.
Savannah is the seat of Chatham County and I have already mentioned the busy port. Add the tourism business and there is a lot going on. Specifically, there is a lot of shopping going on. And entertainment. I’ll post this write up and try to get back soon with an accounting of our shopping and restaurant forays, also a side trip to Tybee Island, and some notes on what I’ll do differently next time I visit.
I hope this information helps with someone else’s trip planning. Here’s a side story. I was asking a restaurant proprietor for a business card and a paper menu. I explained that I like to post my travel notes on the internet. A bystander said, “Oh, you are one of those people who actually contribute to travel forums, thank you!” I thought that was nice.
Nov 12th, 2007, 08:36 AM
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Thanks so much. I enjoyed your report and look forward to reading the rest of it. I have just booked a trip in March to Charleston, Savahhan and St Augustine. While I'm looking forward to the trip, this will be the first March in many years that I have not gone to Europe and I'm already feeling a bit of withdrawl symptoms - so anything that can get me psyched for this trip is great. And your report did help. Thanks again.
Nov 13th, 2007, 05:33 AM
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Thank you for the comments. I am working on the continuation (dining and shopping) and I'll post soon.
Isabel, glad to help. You mentioned that you will be traveling in March. I believe Savannah has a humongous St. Patrick's Day celebration. You'll want to include that in your planning. (To either be there or to avoid it, that is.) Don't I remember you from the good advice you gave me when I was planning a trip to Italy with my sister last year?
Gail--you are so right! The road surfaces are tough on the feet AND the shoes! I was very impressed with SCAD and its growth since my last Savannah visit 15 years ago!
cmcfong--thank you for posting. dining and shopping report coming soon!
Isabel, glad to help. You mentioned that you will be traveling in March. I believe Savannah has a humongous St. Patrick's Day celebration. You'll want to include that in your planning. (To either be there or to avoid it, that is.) Don't I remember you from the good advice you gave me when I was planning a trip to Italy with my sister last year?
Gail--you are so right! The road surfaces are tough on the feet AND the shoes! I was very impressed with SCAD and its growth since my last Savannah visit 15 years ago!
cmcfong--thank you for posting. dining and shopping report coming soon!
Nov 13th, 2007, 07:13 AM
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We had a mixed bag of experiences dining in Savannah. What was good was very, very good and what was bad, well, not so much. Let’s start with the good.
Vic’s On The River was yum. Located facing both River Street and Bay Streets, it is chic and modern on the inside, with great views. A little noisy with its hardwood floors, but attractive. The menu includes seafood, much of it with a southern accent, like shrimp and grits. Also some beef and pork dishes. Nice selection of wine by the glass. We spent about $100 for one appetizer, two main dishes, and three glasses wine. Good quality, well-prepared food. You can see their menu and pictures at www.vicsontheriver.com.
The Express Café and Bakery. Another winner, this one in the old marketplace area. Open for breakfast and lunch. I had breakfast here twice. The first time just coffee and a roll, the second time I had two poached eggs with toasted whole wheat baguette slices. Everything looked and tasted fresh and delicious. They also offer soups, sandwiches and salads for lunch and a full bakery all day. Order at the counter and they deliver your food to your table. Expect a line but it moves fast. More info at www.expresscafeandbakery.com.
Zunzi’s Takeout. THIS WAS THE FIND OF THE TRIP. Maybe the find of the year. I’ve got to tell you about this.
I was sightseeing with Mr. B, whose wife was attending the conference with my TC, when we saw a line of young people outside a little shop flying four flags: USA, Italy, Swiss, South Africa. Naturally we checked it out. It was a teensy little place, not more than a take-out counter with a kitchen behind it. With wonderful strange smells.
The guy in front of me ordered a sandwich called the Conquistador. I asked him about it and he said he had no idea, but “my students told me to order it.” A lady out front had said, “You must try the African tea.” So I got that, too. The sandwich was a few fat slices of herb roasted chicken breast on a baguette and two “special sauces.”
Sadly, I am not a food writer and I can’t tell you what the special sauces were. One was white—it might have been yogurt-based, it had a tang; one was reddish—I’m guessing it was sweet paprika.
Mr.B rolled the dice and asked for the Boerewores on a Roll, basically because he is a foodie and had no idea what is was. Turned out to be a homemade South African style sausage sandwich with grilled onion and gravy—rich, earthy, and unique.
The African tea was superb. Slightly sweetened, spiced iced tea. Very very good.
Little tables with umbrellas on a patio behind the place. I can’t say enough about this place. More info at www.zunzis.com.
Six Pence Pub. We did not have enough to eat here to really tell you a lot about this spot except that it is charming and has outdoor seating which we enjoyed as it was a beautiful day. We each had a glass of wine and shared a brie appetizer. Very good. 245 Bull Street. You’ll see the Union Jack flying outside and a red phone box on the sidewalk. This is a great stop if you are shopping on Bull Street, and that was my fave place to shop on this trip. Point of interest: the door leading into the small office next door bears the words: Phillip Marlowe, Private Eye.
Moving on to the mediocre…I was disappointed to not get great oysters on this trip. We tried the Oyster Bar on River Street. The plate of a dozen oysters came out of the fridge, who knows when they were shucked? Not terrible but so-so. Also had a pound of steamed shrimp. They were tasty and well spiced but they were not local Georgia shrimp.
And finally to the truly awful…The Pirate’s House. Greasy, cold, tasteless, expensive. Surly service. Avoid it.
River Street Riverboat Company. Trapped at sea. Vile food. The music was good but way way too loud. Expensive. If you want to enjoy the view from the river, take the free ferry back and forth a few times and spend your money elsewhere.
I hope this dining information helps someone. The good far outweighed the bad. I’ll post again with some shopping experiences. I thought the shopping in Savannah was great.
Vic’s On The River was yum. Located facing both River Street and Bay Streets, it is chic and modern on the inside, with great views. A little noisy with its hardwood floors, but attractive. The menu includes seafood, much of it with a southern accent, like shrimp and grits. Also some beef and pork dishes. Nice selection of wine by the glass. We spent about $100 for one appetizer, two main dishes, and three glasses wine. Good quality, well-prepared food. You can see their menu and pictures at www.vicsontheriver.com.
The Express Café and Bakery. Another winner, this one in the old marketplace area. Open for breakfast and lunch. I had breakfast here twice. The first time just coffee and a roll, the second time I had two poached eggs with toasted whole wheat baguette slices. Everything looked and tasted fresh and delicious. They also offer soups, sandwiches and salads for lunch and a full bakery all day. Order at the counter and they deliver your food to your table. Expect a line but it moves fast. More info at www.expresscafeandbakery.com.
Zunzi’s Takeout. THIS WAS THE FIND OF THE TRIP. Maybe the find of the year. I’ve got to tell you about this.
I was sightseeing with Mr. B, whose wife was attending the conference with my TC, when we saw a line of young people outside a little shop flying four flags: USA, Italy, Swiss, South Africa. Naturally we checked it out. It was a teensy little place, not more than a take-out counter with a kitchen behind it. With wonderful strange smells.
The guy in front of me ordered a sandwich called the Conquistador. I asked him about it and he said he had no idea, but “my students told me to order it.” A lady out front had said, “You must try the African tea.” So I got that, too. The sandwich was a few fat slices of herb roasted chicken breast on a baguette and two “special sauces.”
Sadly, I am not a food writer and I can’t tell you what the special sauces were. One was white—it might have been yogurt-based, it had a tang; one was reddish—I’m guessing it was sweet paprika.
Mr.B rolled the dice and asked for the Boerewores on a Roll, basically because he is a foodie and had no idea what is was. Turned out to be a homemade South African style sausage sandwich with grilled onion and gravy—rich, earthy, and unique.
The African tea was superb. Slightly sweetened, spiced iced tea. Very very good.
Little tables with umbrellas on a patio behind the place. I can’t say enough about this place. More info at www.zunzis.com.
Six Pence Pub. We did not have enough to eat here to really tell you a lot about this spot except that it is charming and has outdoor seating which we enjoyed as it was a beautiful day. We each had a glass of wine and shared a brie appetizer. Very good. 245 Bull Street. You’ll see the Union Jack flying outside and a red phone box on the sidewalk. This is a great stop if you are shopping on Bull Street, and that was my fave place to shop on this trip. Point of interest: the door leading into the small office next door bears the words: Phillip Marlowe, Private Eye.
Moving on to the mediocre…I was disappointed to not get great oysters on this trip. We tried the Oyster Bar on River Street. The plate of a dozen oysters came out of the fridge, who knows when they were shucked? Not terrible but so-so. Also had a pound of steamed shrimp. They were tasty and well spiced but they were not local Georgia shrimp.
And finally to the truly awful…The Pirate’s House. Greasy, cold, tasteless, expensive. Surly service. Avoid it.
River Street Riverboat Company. Trapped at sea. Vile food. The music was good but way way too loud. Expensive. If you want to enjoy the view from the river, take the free ferry back and forth a few times and spend your money elsewhere.
I hope this dining information helps someone. The good far outweighed the bad. I’ll post again with some shopping experiences. I thought the shopping in Savannah was great.
Dec 9th, 2007, 03:34 PM
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polly - the fact that St Patrick's day is in the middle of my trip is a major problem, I know. This year the parade is on Friday the 14th and some people have said they think that by Monday, the 17th things will be more or less normal in Savannah. I sure hope so. I would like to spend three days in Savannah but that would require arriving on the 17th, so I've tentatively arranged to be in Beaufort SC on the 17th and arrive in Savannah early on the 18th, stay the 19th and leave for St Augustine on the 20th. Does that sound reasonable?
Dec 10th, 2007, 08:43 AM
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Olive Oil, very sad to hear about decline of the Pirate House. We have been visiting Savannah since the 1980's and their pecan crusted fried chicken was always a delight for us. They have been in business since forever. Guess we will have to cross them off our list next time we visit. Too bad!
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