Notom-Burr or Rt 12 from Capitol Reef to Bryce
Mar 15th, 2015, 10:09 AM
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Notom-Burr or Rt 12 from Capitol Reef to Bryce
Hello Everyone!
My wife and two girls (5,7) will be doing a trip thru southern Utah from Denver starting 3/28. Our first night stay will be in Fruita, UT. For the next day, I would like some advice on the best route to Bryce as I have the whole day to get to Bryce and would like see Capitol Reef. I will be in a Subura outback and depending on weather, it does not look like the Notom-Burr road and up through the Burr Trail Switchbacks should be a problem (again weather dependent). My thought is to get to the Strike Valley Overlook by early afternoon and spend an hour or so there before heading out to Boulder and down to Bryce. Having never been down Rt12 to Bryce, I not sure if taking the Notom-Burr road would take to much time and we would be missing portions of Rt 12 and driving too late down to Bryce, we would also lose out on some scenic sites along that route. As an FYI, we are planning to stay 2 nights at Bryce and another 2 at Zion before heading back to Denver.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Dave
My wife and two girls (5,7) will be doing a trip thru southern Utah from Denver starting 3/28. Our first night stay will be in Fruita, UT. For the next day, I would like some advice on the best route to Bryce as I have the whole day to get to Bryce and would like see Capitol Reef. I will be in a Subura outback and depending on weather, it does not look like the Notom-Burr road and up through the Burr Trail Switchbacks should be a problem (again weather dependent). My thought is to get to the Strike Valley Overlook by early afternoon and spend an hour or so there before heading out to Boulder and down to Bryce. Having never been down Rt12 to Bryce, I not sure if taking the Notom-Burr road would take to much time and we would be missing portions of Rt 12 and driving too late down to Bryce, we would also lose out on some scenic sites along that route. As an FYI, we are planning to stay 2 nights at Bryce and another 2 at Zion before heading back to Denver.
Thanks in advance for any advice.
Dave
Mar 15th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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To see Capitol Reef you will want to take the scenic road in the park. This is the best area along with the road on Hwy 24 in the park.
The first 6 or 7 miles of the Notom-Bull frog road is paved and that's where the best scenery is. The rest can be a rough washboard which could slow you down and take longer than you are planning on. I was so disappointed with the scenery and couldn't wait until we were done with that part. The switch backs up to the Burr trail were fun. I didn't know about the Strike Valley Overlook when we did this years ago so I haven't been but I do know that you might need a 4 wheel drive vehicle to get close or you might have to hike to it. http://intermountainhealthcare.org/l...alley-overlook There is more dirt roads once you head towards Boulder, Utah which again the scenery is pretty disappointing until you get into the paved portion of the Burr Trail. Shortly after the paved sections starts you enter the canyon which is very scenic.
Fortunately the best part of scenic Hwy 12 IMHO is the section between Boulder, Utah and Escalante, Utah and you won't miss that. The section you will miss travels over Boulder Mountain where you drive though groves of aspen trees and you have some scenic overlooks of the valley.
If you choose the Notom-Bull frog you really won't have time to see much of the scenic part of Capitol Reef. I think for my first time I'd spend it in the park near the visitor center and the scenic hwy. Do a hike or two in the park. Drive scenic Hwy 12 and you could easily do the paved section of the Burr Trail out of Boulder, Utah and drive back.
Things to think about: This time of the year you are going to be lucky to have 12 hours of daylight. There is no cell service in Capitol Reef National Park even at the visitor center so is you get stuck out on the Noton-Bull frog road or break down....it could be a while before you see anyone else.
You say your first night will be in Fruita, UT. You must be camping because there are no other accommodations there. I haven't been in March but it's at a high elevation so I would imagine it will be cold at night. I know in the fall you have to be there early in the day to get a campsite but I have no experience with March.
Bryce Canyon this time of the year can have a lot of snow. Byrce is starts at about 8,000 feet and goes up to just over 9,000 feet. Zion will be warmer because it's only around 4,000 feet.
Utahtea
The first 6 or 7 miles of the Notom-Bull frog road is paved and that's where the best scenery is. The rest can be a rough washboard which could slow you down and take longer than you are planning on. I was so disappointed with the scenery and couldn't wait until we were done with that part. The switch backs up to the Burr trail were fun. I didn't know about the Strike Valley Overlook when we did this years ago so I haven't been but I do know that you might need a 4 wheel drive vehicle to get close or you might have to hike to it. http://intermountainhealthcare.org/l...alley-overlook There is more dirt roads once you head towards Boulder, Utah which again the scenery is pretty disappointing until you get into the paved portion of the Burr Trail. Shortly after the paved sections starts you enter the canyon which is very scenic.
Fortunately the best part of scenic Hwy 12 IMHO is the section between Boulder, Utah and Escalante, Utah and you won't miss that. The section you will miss travels over Boulder Mountain where you drive though groves of aspen trees and you have some scenic overlooks of the valley.
If you choose the Notom-Bull frog you really won't have time to see much of the scenic part of Capitol Reef. I think for my first time I'd spend it in the park near the visitor center and the scenic hwy. Do a hike or two in the park. Drive scenic Hwy 12 and you could easily do the paved section of the Burr Trail out of Boulder, Utah and drive back.
Things to think about: This time of the year you are going to be lucky to have 12 hours of daylight. There is no cell service in Capitol Reef National Park even at the visitor center so is you get stuck out on the Noton-Bull frog road or break down....it could be a while before you see anyone else.
You say your first night will be in Fruita, UT. You must be camping because there are no other accommodations there. I haven't been in March but it's at a high elevation so I would imagine it will be cold at night. I know in the fall you have to be there early in the day to get a campsite but I have no experience with March.
Bryce Canyon this time of the year can have a lot of snow. Byrce is starts at about 8,000 feet and goes up to just over 9,000 feet. Zion will be warmer because it's only around 4,000 feet.
Utahtea
Mar 15th, 2015, 11:45 AM
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Agree with everything utahtea says. I have also driven the entire Burr trail from Boulder to Capitol reef before any of it was paved. The best part between Boulder and the switchbacks is now paved ,but the rest is dusty slow going and not great scenery.
With the time you have go over Boulder Mtn to get to Bryce.
With the time you have go over Boulder Mtn to get to Bryce.
Mar 15th, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Utahtea: Sorry you are right, Fruita was a typo as we are staying in Torrey for the night.
Looks like I'll take yours and Dayle's feedback and stay on Rt12 and will do the paved scenic route in Capitol reef and then it will give us time to take it slow down to Bryce. We plan to spend one full day in Bryce only and then 2 days in Zion, partly for the reason you mentioned that we expect it to be warmer there. Having never been down there, we decided on two nights at Bryce so that we did have to rush our full day there and if we decide to head over to Zion early next morning, the schedule would still allow that and give us more time at Zion.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Looks like I'll take yours and Dayle's feedback and stay on Rt12 and will do the paved scenic route in Capitol reef and then it will give us time to take it slow down to Bryce. We plan to spend one full day in Bryce only and then 2 days in Zion, partly for the reason you mentioned that we expect it to be warmer there. Having never been down there, we decided on two nights at Bryce so that we did have to rush our full day there and if we decide to head over to Zion early next morning, the schedule would still allow that and give us more time at Zion.
Thanks again for the feedback.
Mar 15th, 2015, 06:09 PM
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Bryce with snow is even more magical, I just wanted to make sure you came prepared for the possibility of snow.
Hope you have a great trip. We will be in the southern parks of Utah in April...I can't wait!
Utahtea
Hope you have a great trip. We will be in the southern parks of Utah in April...I can't wait!
Utahtea
Mar 16th, 2015, 07:26 PM
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Thanks for the heads up and always appreciated. I don't mind the cold so much but the wife prefers 70+ temps 
I am a big fan of pre-sunrise hikes to see sunrise and Angels Landing and West Rim Trail was on I was hoping to sneak in early early morning but a bit bummed that shuttle does not run early enough for me.
I am a big fan of pre-sunrise hikes to see sunrise and Angels Landing and West Rim Trail was on I was hoping to sneak in early early morning but a bit bummed that shuttle does not run early enough for me.
Mar 17th, 2015, 04:05 AM
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I've done both and, as much as I love the Burr Trail/Notom Rd. route, I'd opt for the road over Boulder Mtn. It is highly scenic and give you an appreciation of altitude on the landscape...watch out for deer though...man on Boulder Mtn. This route will free up time for sightseeing along the way. Perhaps a visit to the Anazasi Museum in Boulder, a stop at the unique Kiva Koffehouse, a drive down the Hole-in-the-Rock Rd to the Devil's Garden, the petrified forest in Escalante. Here's a link to our trip report that was all about Hwy 12.
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/utah_tr
http://www.pbase.com/peterb/utah_tr
Apr 18th, 2015, 08:09 AM
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Wanted to come back and give an update on our trip.
Overall, it was a wonderful trip, as much as I expected the area to be beautiful, seeing it in person is so much more amazing. The family had a great time and our two little girls, their favorite part our trip were the various stops to scrambled up the mountains, the smoother, rounded rock mountains in the southern part of Utah made it easier and more fun for the girls.
Hwy 12 was just an unbelievable drive....beautiful. Although I wanted to take a detour to the Strike Valley overlook, we took our time int he morning leaving Capitol Reef so ended up bypassing that detour. Plus, I wanted to take our time driving down to Zion and that turned out to be a great decision. We did stop by Kiva and enjoyed ice coffee and snacks for the girls. And it definitely takes a full day on hwy 12 if you want to enjoy the area...well worth it. To my surprise, the route also takes you through a section almost 100% covered with Aspens, can't imagine how beautiful it would be in the fall...hmmmmm (fall trip????)
We also tweaked our plans to reverse the nights between Bryce and Zion, staying at Zion first, then back up to Bryce then home. Reason for that was so that I could stay at Zion lodge as that was the only available dates. That also turned out to be great decision as it was so much more convenient, although more expensive, to stay inside Zion. Based on seeing the shuttle situation and parking in the town, I think it was worth the additional cost AND was I able to do my pre-sunrise hikes up to Angle's Landing (well worth the 4am hike to have no one up there at sunrise).
Thinking back when I was a kid and visiting Yosemite, Sequoia/King's Canyon, Yellowstone etc....our national parks are becoming too crowded. I can't imagine what the shuttle experience would be during peak season at Zion and how crowded the trails would be. Last year, my brother and I drove through Yosemite's Toulumne Meadow on our way to the Eastern Sierras for a backpacking trip and the roll of cars along 120 was just absolutely packed for miles. Thus the reason that we only visit national parks now in spring or fall with family and for my solo trips, during winter only.
Again, thank you for the advice.
Overall, it was a wonderful trip, as much as I expected the area to be beautiful, seeing it in person is so much more amazing. The family had a great time and our two little girls, their favorite part our trip were the various stops to scrambled up the mountains, the smoother, rounded rock mountains in the southern part of Utah made it easier and more fun for the girls.
Hwy 12 was just an unbelievable drive....beautiful. Although I wanted to take a detour to the Strike Valley overlook, we took our time int he morning leaving Capitol Reef so ended up bypassing that detour. Plus, I wanted to take our time driving down to Zion and that turned out to be a great decision. We did stop by Kiva and enjoyed ice coffee and snacks for the girls. And it definitely takes a full day on hwy 12 if you want to enjoy the area...well worth it. To my surprise, the route also takes you through a section almost 100% covered with Aspens, can't imagine how beautiful it would be in the fall...hmmmmm (fall trip????)
We also tweaked our plans to reverse the nights between Bryce and Zion, staying at Zion first, then back up to Bryce then home. Reason for that was so that I could stay at Zion lodge as that was the only available dates. That also turned out to be great decision as it was so much more convenient, although more expensive, to stay inside Zion. Based on seeing the shuttle situation and parking in the town, I think it was worth the additional cost AND was I able to do my pre-sunrise hikes up to Angle's Landing (well worth the 4am hike to have no one up there at sunrise).
Thinking back when I was a kid and visiting Yosemite, Sequoia/King's Canyon, Yellowstone etc....our national parks are becoming too crowded. I can't imagine what the shuttle experience would be during peak season at Zion and how crowded the trails would be. Last year, my brother and I drove through Yosemite's Toulumne Meadow on our way to the Eastern Sierras for a backpacking trip and the roll of cars along 120 was just absolutely packed for miles. Thus the reason that we only visit national parks now in spring or fall with family and for my solo trips, during winter only.
Again, thank you for the advice.
Apr 18th, 2015, 02:40 PM
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v,
Thanks for the follow up and I'm so glad you had a good time.
The section of Hwy 12 drive with all the aspens is Boulder Mountain. Yes, it's gorgeous in the fall. Our aspens peak about the last week of Sept, first week of October.
I agree that some of our Natl Park are getting to crowded. In Zion's case it's the growth boom in Las Vegas and St. George. Makes it so much easier for people living near to come on a nice weather day or for a weekend. Late fall is a nice time to visit Zion. The colors in the canyon turn later due to lower altitude. I've visited the last weekend of the shuttle service and that makes for a wonderful bike ride up and down the canyon, no cars to worry about and very few people.
You will have to come back again!
Thanks for the follow up and I'm so glad you had a good time.
The section of Hwy 12 drive with all the aspens is Boulder Mountain. Yes, it's gorgeous in the fall. Our aspens peak about the last week of Sept, first week of October.
I agree that some of our Natl Park are getting to crowded. In Zion's case it's the growth boom in Las Vegas and St. George. Makes it so much easier for people living near to come on a nice weather day or for a weekend. Late fall is a nice time to visit Zion. The colors in the canyon turn later due to lower altitude. I've visited the last weekend of the shuttle service and that makes for a wonderful bike ride up and down the canyon, no cars to worry about and very few people.
You will have to come back again!
Apr 18th, 2015, 05:00 PM
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I have been to Moab twice over the last four years with my last trip early September of last year. I really love Utah! I too have driven Hwy 12 and loved every mile of it. Boulder Mountain was beautiful and section called the hogback was very scenic with steep drops on both sides of the road.
