New Englandly: a Bit of Time in Massachusetts and Maine
Aug 1st, 2014, 04:32 PM
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New Englandly: a Bit of Time in Massachusetts and Maine
My travel plans for this summer were to go to Colombia and re-visit the Peruvian Amazon. Somehow, this morphed into driving to Prince Edward Island via New England, so this trip report will be a bit unlike my usual ones. But I do have to say it was a great time!
The first lap of the road trip was Philadelphia to Burlington, MA. We chose Burlington because it was close to Concord, easy to access, and, frankly, cheap via Hotwire at $119 a night. (We, in this case, are my three nieces {24, 17, 15} and I.) Our hotel was the Boston Marriott Burlington, http://marriottburlington.com/ , which was fine for location but not really much else, to be honest. Contrary to what their reception desk tried to tell me, their own website will cheerfully book four to a room, but the four had better be stick people. I've never seen smaller double beds. Still, it was easy on/off for the highway and reasonably clean, so...
we were okay.
Day one, Sunday, was for Boston. I'd love to spend a much longer time there, but this gave us a nice overview with emphasis on the historic parts. We parked at the Common for the day and walked from there, with a stop at Dad's Fried Dough on the Common (opens at 11) for breakfast to appease the nostalgia for me. Fried dough had come to Philadelphia for the Bicentennial and I loved it, but it didn't last long in the city (probably due to funnel cake competition.) I hadn't had it since, and it was lovely: basically, it's a deep fried slab of pizza dough that's slathered with melted butter and sprinkled with confectioners' sugar and cinnamon. Not something to eat on a regular basis, I'll grant you, but the four of us managed one pretty well.
The Freedom Trail is marked out quite clearly and we followed it all the way to the USS Constitution, albeit with a few stops due to the 90+ weather. Still, it was quite a gorgeous day of blue skies and light wind, but we were all a bit tired by the time we got back to the Public Garden at the end of the day! One of my favorite things along the trail was the cemeteries with those rather startling carvings. The colonial history mixes, of course, with more modern living, and the North Side was very inviting with its nice looking little restaurants. However, we missed it on the way back (when we might have been ready for dinner) from our visit aboard "Old Ironsides", the USS Constitution, as we took the public transportation ferry back to the center of town.
Here's the New England picture link for a start: http://missalg.smugmug.com/Travel/Ma...3123184_Zj4Vmj
The first lap of the road trip was Philadelphia to Burlington, MA. We chose Burlington because it was close to Concord, easy to access, and, frankly, cheap via Hotwire at $119 a night. (We, in this case, are my three nieces {24, 17, 15} and I.) Our hotel was the Boston Marriott Burlington, http://marriottburlington.com/ , which was fine for location but not really much else, to be honest. Contrary to what their reception desk tried to tell me, their own website will cheerfully book four to a room, but the four had better be stick people. I've never seen smaller double beds. Still, it was easy on/off for the highway and reasonably clean, so...
we were okay.
Day one, Sunday, was for Boston. I'd love to spend a much longer time there, but this gave us a nice overview with emphasis on the historic parts. We parked at the Common for the day and walked from there, with a stop at Dad's Fried Dough on the Common (opens at 11) for breakfast to appease the nostalgia for me. Fried dough had come to Philadelphia for the Bicentennial and I loved it, but it didn't last long in the city (probably due to funnel cake competition.) I hadn't had it since, and it was lovely: basically, it's a deep fried slab of pizza dough that's slathered with melted butter and sprinkled with confectioners' sugar and cinnamon. Not something to eat on a regular basis, I'll grant you, but the four of us managed one pretty well.
The Freedom Trail is marked out quite clearly and we followed it all the way to the USS Constitution, albeit with a few stops due to the 90+ weather. Still, it was quite a gorgeous day of blue skies and light wind, but we were all a bit tired by the time we got back to the Public Garden at the end of the day! One of my favorite things along the trail was the cemeteries with those rather startling carvings. The colonial history mixes, of course, with more modern living, and the North Side was very inviting with its nice looking little restaurants. However, we missed it on the way back (when we might have been ready for dinner) from our visit aboard "Old Ironsides", the USS Constitution, as we took the public transportation ferry back to the center of town.
Here's the New England picture link for a start: http://missalg.smugmug.com/Travel/Ma...3123184_Zj4Vmj
Aug 2nd, 2014, 05:26 AM
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Flpab, it's worth it! 
Thanks, Linda! The elder niece was going to go to the Amazon with me, but she was re-reading the Anne books, so...It worked out really nicely, though, and she did all the driving!
On to Concord:
Monday we went to Concord, mostly for Orchard House, where Louisa May Alcott wrote Little Women. (I am named Amy for a reason, by the way, that is not unconnected with Little Women.)
Orchard House is as interesting as the family; I love how they let May draw all over, for instance. You visit the house via tour only; there's a brief film at the start.
We had brunch at Helen's on Main Street; yes, this is an indicator that we didn't start out too early. I think I wore everybody out with Boston! My "Walden" chicken salad was quite tasty. Helen's interior doesn't really match its exterior: inside is 70's neighborhood restaurant, but that's okay by me. Oh, and it's cash only.
We visited the North Bridge and a couple of the Visitors' Centers in Minuteman National Park. One thing that I've become more aware of since touring part of the American West with some Germans is that those films (in the National Parks) really tend to be done well and quite helpful in getting an overview. They are so much a given that I'd never really thought about them, but hey, kudos to our movies!
It's a bit of hike to the Bridge and the Minuteman Statue ("By the rude bridge that arched the flood...) but there are some good views and a trees for going into the shade: it was another hot day. The bridge itself is a replica, of course, but one could feel the history.
We would have stayed longer, but the sites close at 5PM, so we did a bit more hiking and then went back via Lexington.
Next up: Maine, and the Mt. Ever-so-Slightly Battie Motel
Thanks, Linda! The elder niece was going to go to the Amazon with me, but she was re-reading the Anne books, so...It worked out really nicely, though, and she did all the driving!
On to Concord:
Monday we went to Concord, mostly for Orchard House, where Louisa May Alcott wrote Little Women. (I am named Amy for a reason, by the way, that is not unconnected with Little Women.)
Orchard House is as interesting as the family; I love how they let May draw all over, for instance. You visit the house via tour only; there's a brief film at the start.
We had brunch at Helen's on Main Street; yes, this is an indicator that we didn't start out too early. I think I wore everybody out with Boston! My "Walden" chicken salad was quite tasty. Helen's interior doesn't really match its exterior: inside is 70's neighborhood restaurant, but that's okay by me. Oh, and it's cash only.
We visited the North Bridge and a couple of the Visitors' Centers in Minuteman National Park. One thing that I've become more aware of since touring part of the American West with some Germans is that those films (in the National Parks) really tend to be done well and quite helpful in getting an overview. They are so much a given that I'd never really thought about them, but hey, kudos to our movies!
It's a bit of hike to the Bridge and the Minuteman Statue ("By the rude bridge that arched the flood...) but there are some good views and a trees for going into the shade: it was another hot day. The bridge itself is a replica, of course, but one could feel the history.
We would have stayed longer, but the sites close at 5PM, so we did a bit more hiking and then went back via Lexington.
Next up: Maine, and the Mt. Ever-so-Slightly Battie Motel
Aug 3rd, 2014, 04:50 AM
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Maine really is lovely, with its pines, its picturesqueness, and its point of view, which strikes me as being something like, "We're Maine. Deal with it." It's a good thing that it is lovely, too, as we saw a LOT of it, driving along.
Our lodging was the Mt. Battie Motel, www.mountbattie.com, which is a self-described combo B&B and motel. It's very nicely kept up and the breakfast has a delightful variety of baked goods (along with peanut butter and hard boiled eggs for protein) but my personal taste is for a leeeeetle less of the B&B feel. We had the suite, and it was nice to have a living room, but this made it definitely the priciest accommodation of our trip. It's very cheerful, and has a decent location along Route 1 between Camden and Lincolnville.
We got in in the evening, because we had spent the first part of the day in Salem, Massachusetts.
One could wax all philosophical about what Salem would be if there hadn't been those horrific trials in 1692 (Answer: one of many maritime towns along the coast) but on the whole "it is what it is" line let's just say Salem has embraced its past in a comprehensive way. (I can't even imagine what Hallowe'en is like.)
We had breakfast at Red's Sandwich Shop, very happily I might add. It's an historic building, and the pancakes are ridiculously large. Very friendly service, good breakfast. www.redssandwichshop.com
We walked around the town a bit and went into the Visitor Center, which emphasizes the maritime/mercantile aspect, and then paid our ten bucks or so to the Witch Dungeon Museum, on the theory that, hey, it's probably pretty kitschy, but at least there's a dungeon. As it turns out, there's a dungeon replica, but as a one-off it worked for us. There are very informative placards in the auditorium where there's a brief re-enactment before you go down to the dungeons, and the guide was quite good and dramatic.
The Memorial is much more somber and reflective, and more in keeping, of course, with the actual happenings.
Our final stop (and we could have spent a lot more time, really, with all that Salem has to offer) was the Salem Museum in the old Town Hall. It's got numerous displays, including Monopoly, as Parker Brothers was founded in Salem, and some of the trade goods in silk and such. A nice wander-through, and it's free.
We left from Salem to go to Mt. Battie, stopping at Bullwinkle's Family Steakhouse in Waldoboro, along the highway, for a late lunch.
Our lodging was the Mt. Battie Motel, www.mountbattie.com, which is a self-described combo B&B and motel. It's very nicely kept up and the breakfast has a delightful variety of baked goods (along with peanut butter and hard boiled eggs for protein) but my personal taste is for a leeeeetle less of the B&B feel. We had the suite, and it was nice to have a living room, but this made it definitely the priciest accommodation of our trip. It's very cheerful, and has a decent location along Route 1 between Camden and Lincolnville.
We got in in the evening, because we had spent the first part of the day in Salem, Massachusetts.
One could wax all philosophical about what Salem would be if there hadn't been those horrific trials in 1692 (Answer: one of many maritime towns along the coast) but on the whole "it is what it is" line let's just say Salem has embraced its past in a comprehensive way. (I can't even imagine what Hallowe'en is like.)
We had breakfast at Red's Sandwich Shop, very happily I might add. It's an historic building, and the pancakes are ridiculously large. Very friendly service, good breakfast. www.redssandwichshop.com
We walked around the town a bit and went into the Visitor Center, which emphasizes the maritime/mercantile aspect, and then paid our ten bucks or so to the Witch Dungeon Museum, on the theory that, hey, it's probably pretty kitschy, but at least there's a dungeon. As it turns out, there's a dungeon replica, but as a one-off it worked for us. There are very informative placards in the auditorium where there's a brief re-enactment before you go down to the dungeons, and the guide was quite good and dramatic.
The Memorial is much more somber and reflective, and more in keeping, of course, with the actual happenings.
Our final stop (and we could have spent a lot more time, really, with all that Salem has to offer) was the Salem Museum in the old Town Hall. It's got numerous displays, including Monopoly, as Parker Brothers was founded in Salem, and some of the trade goods in silk and such. A nice wander-through, and it's free.
We left from Salem to go to Mt. Battie, stopping at Bullwinkle's Family Steakhouse in Waldoboro, along the highway, for a late lunch.
Aug 3rd, 2014, 05:20 AM
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Orchard House, went there in 1962 and fell in love with Louisa May Alcott. I went back but it was closed several years ago. Maybe they were doing work on the building. I am going to try again and get a tour. Thanks for the tips on Salem. We plan on taking the ferry there and I really am more interested in the maritime part as an 8 times grandfather built ships there. His daughter was born in 1644 and died there so made me look all of the witch history up.
Salem Museum will be on the list though, love free!
Salem Museum will be on the list though, love free!
Aug 3rd, 2014, 05:59 AM
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Flpab, that's so interesting about your ancestors; a great reason to visit, for sure. The Salem Museum doesn't open until noon, by the way, to help a bit further in your planning. You'll definitely want to get to the Visitors' Center, too...and I'm sure you'll be wanting to see the Peabody Essex Museum, which I, sadly, had to miss. Happy planning!
Aug 3rd, 2014, 08:46 AM
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Maine:
We arrived at the Mt. Battie in the evening, and had time for a semi-sunset stroll down by the shore before the rains began. Fortunately, the rain ended in the morning, and we were able to climb Mt. Battie and view Penobscot Bay from its lookout. It actually reminded me of rainforest hiking, as it was, shall we stay, still slightly soggy. (I have a massive bruise from going down on the trail and slamming my thigh into a tree root. Perhaps I am too clumsy for mountain-ish climbing.) Mt. Battie, to be sure, is really more of a hill. There's a $4.50 per person charge for park use; you can drive your car up, but what's the fun in that? There were a couple of points on the trail where the blue markings were not terribly clear, but in general it was a simple hike and the views of Camden harbor were exceeding picturesque.
In the afternoon, we went to the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. It's about a mile out in the water, and it was pretty nifty to be "walking on the water" that far out. The lighthouse itself is closed, but you can get pictures from a handy nearby dock and you can climb up to give yourself a view of the sea.
Before our lighthouse hike, we'd had lunch at Home ("There's No Place Like Home") Kitchen Cafe, from which we highly, highly recommend the peanut butter frosted chocolate cupcakes. Highly. http://www.homekitchencafe.com/
We arrived at the Mt. Battie in the evening, and had time for a semi-sunset stroll down by the shore before the rains began. Fortunately, the rain ended in the morning, and we were able to climb Mt. Battie and view Penobscot Bay from its lookout. It actually reminded me of rainforest hiking, as it was, shall we stay, still slightly soggy. (I have a massive bruise from going down on the trail and slamming my thigh into a tree root. Perhaps I am too clumsy for mountain-ish climbing.) Mt. Battie, to be sure, is really more of a hill. There's a $4.50 per person charge for park use; you can drive your car up, but what's the fun in that? There were a couple of points on the trail where the blue markings were not terribly clear, but in general it was a simple hike and the views of Camden harbor were exceeding picturesque.
In the afternoon, we went to the Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse. It's about a mile out in the water, and it was pretty nifty to be "walking on the water" that far out. The lighthouse itself is closed, but you can get pictures from a handy nearby dock and you can climb up to give yourself a view of the sea.
Before our lighthouse hike, we'd had lunch at Home ("There's No Place Like Home") Kitchen Cafe, from which we highly, highly recommend the peanut butter frosted chocolate cupcakes. Highly. http://www.homekitchencafe.com/
Aug 3rd, 2014, 12:57 PM
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Believe it or not, Stu, the lobster didn't happen until Prince Edward Island! (I know, heresy...) But it just worked out that way, and it was worth waiting for.
Lobster coming up in the next installment, which is over in the Canada forum: http://www.fodors.com/community/cana...ard-island.cfm
Lobster coming up in the next installment, which is over in the Canada forum: http://www.fodors.com/community/cana...ard-island.cfm
Aug 3rd, 2014, 05:13 PM
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https://picasaweb.google.com/stuartt...93021822362114
Amy: This had to be the funniest sign I saw on PEI....Canadian sense of humor!!)
Amy: This had to be the funniest sign I saw on PEI....Canadian sense of humor!!)
Aug 8th, 2014, 05:33 AM
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I forgot to add on the last New England part--on the way home from Canada:
Our stop in the long journey home was at the Hampton Inn in Haverhill, MA. It took us nigh unto twelve hours to get there--traffic was a bit, um, summer-weekendish--but it was really a great stop: easy to access from the highway, had a pool that that the kids enjoyed immensely, good service, nice size beds, decent free breakfast. (So, a contrast to the Marriott at the beginning of the trip in most ways.)
We needed dinner that was easy, so we went around the corner to the 99 restaurant. Our waitress there was one of the best servers I've ever encountered. She was kind, helpful, and efficient, which isn't easy when you're dealing with nine practically incoherent people. The food was quite good, especially the crust for the chicken pot pie. It was just a nice experience altogether: not fine dining, but suited the bill very well.
We got home on Sunday, a bit tired of riding, but full of good memories and ready to go Up North again.
Our stop in the long journey home was at the Hampton Inn in Haverhill, MA. It took us nigh unto twelve hours to get there--traffic was a bit, um, summer-weekendish--but it was really a great stop: easy to access from the highway, had a pool that that the kids enjoyed immensely, good service, nice size beds, decent free breakfast. (So, a contrast to the Marriott at the beginning of the trip in most ways.)
We needed dinner that was easy, so we went around the corner to the 99 restaurant. Our waitress there was one of the best servers I've ever encountered. She was kind, helpful, and efficient, which isn't easy when you're dealing with nine practically incoherent people. The food was quite good, especially the crust for the chicken pot pie. It was just a nice experience altogether: not fine dining, but suited the bill very well.
We got home on Sunday, a bit tired of riding, but full of good memories and ready to go Up North again.
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