NeoPatrick's month in Manhattan
May 21st, 2007, 06:21 AM
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NeoPatrick's month in Manhattan
Some of you are aware that I am currently in New York City for a month – as a stopover on our way to Europe. My partner has Alzheimer’s, so our travel style is altered a bit from what it has always been in the past, but he LOVES to travel and seems to do even better when we’re traveling than when he is at home in familiar surroundings (contrary to what all the experts say).
In any case here is WEEK ONE:
We flew from Miami to LaGuardia on Sunday, May 13, going first class on American as part of our FF Business Class to Europe freebie flight. The flight was nice – how could it not be in First Class? A light lunch was served. Arrival at LaGuardia was smooth and we got our luggage quicker than usual. We got an “instant” taxi right outside luggage pickup for American, and just 25 or 30 minutes later we arrived at 8th Avenue and West 50th at the apartment we are renting for a month. Taxi fare – just $27 plus $5 tip. I’ve decided Sunday afternoon is the BEST time to fly into New York as everything was so easy and there was so little traffic.
The owner of the apartment had stepped out (well, we did arrive about 45 minutes earlier than we had anticipated), but he alerted the concierge to let us into the apartment and we were already unpacked and half settled when he arrived. He showed us the electronics – a bank of stereo, TV, DVD, Fax, Printer, complete set up computer (but he helped me hook up my laptop instead, and multi phone lines with unlimited free calls in the US or Canada. We are on the 33rd floor with spectacular views to the north and west, and from the sort of bay in the living room, we can look east to Radio City Music Hall. The apartment is new, clean, and very comfortable, furnished in just so-so Ikea and similar furnishings. The kitchen has everything – right down to an espresso maker – none of which we’ll use, probably.
Sunday night’s dinner (this was Mother’s Day) was booked at our old favorite, Roberto Passon, just a block away and it didn’t disappoint. It was packed due to the crowd of Mom’s and kids, but service held up and the food was great as always.
At home, I am used to getting Lee up at about 8 AM, and then he spends two and a half to three hours showering, shaving, and obsessing about things like which was items on his vanity are facing, and polishing, then repolishing the shower when he gets out of it. So I was surprised to wake up at 7 AM to the sound of running water. Lee was in the shower. By 7:45 he was shaved, dressed, and anxious to go to breakfast. See what I mean about how he travels better? Although we plan to mainly eat breakfast in, we hadn’t yet been to the market (there is a great Food Emporium right in our building below us, and I love the Amish Market which is a block away on 9th). But this morning we went up the street to the simple Cosmic Diner, for standard basic breakfast – cheap and good. When I ordered my eggs and toast and the waitress asked “what kinda meat do you want with that?” and I said “none” she replied “why not?” Ah yes, we’re back in New York!
Our first order of business was to head to South Ferry then walk to the MTA office to get Lee’s senior reduced fare card. This is free to anyone over 65. I bought a one month unlimited MTA pass for $76. His would be $38. I expected this would be a zoo and we would be there for hours in lines. WRONG! Although we had taken a passport style photo for them to use, they insisted on taking another one as it would be easier to imprint on his card. We were there about 15 minutes total and left with his pass. The only “bad” part was the clerk asking if I wanted one too, and I informed her it would be 5 years before I could come back to get one – to which she quickly (but not quickly enough) replied “not that you look old enough to get one”. We walked the Wall Street area, visiting Trinity Church and the fascinating cemetery for the first time ever. We found ourselves drawn to Ground Zero, and walked around a bit. We’ve been there several times, but it still overwhelms one with emotion, just being there by that giant hole in the ground.
Lunch was inside the huge and antique basement safe deposit vault at Bobby Van’s Grill, just opposite the New York Stock Exhange. Wonderful hamburger for Lee, and an even better sliced steak open faced sandwich for me. I asked for “no fries, but a side of sautéed spinach” and got a huge mount of the wonderful garlicky stuff, and was surprised there was no charge to do so.
We were going to take the subway back to midtown from South Ferry, but it was a beautiful day and there we were, so we hopped onto the Staten Island Ferry instead, to do the round trip past the Statue of Liberty. After returning, we headed back to the apartment.
At 6 PM we met Fodorite Mclaurie and a friend at the bar at Abbocato in the Blakely Hotel. We had discovered online we both had tickets to City Center tonight for the Encores production of Stairway to Paradise, right across the street. The show was wonderful – how could it not be, starring Kristen Chenoweth? After the show, we couldn’t find Mclaurie, but knew they were headed back to Long Island, so we went off to have a late dinner at Matt’s Grill, a “neighborhood” place on 8th that was highly recommended. What a disappointment. I had a chicken Caesar and I think the sliced chicken breast had been cooked for a few hours about a week before – almost too dried out to eat. Lee had a pasta that was beyond bland. Oh well, we’re determined to make this our only “bad” meal of the trip – how’s that for optimism?
Tuesday morning we walked to the special Monet exhibition at the Wildenstein Gallery at 64th and Madison. Loved the small but wonderful collection – about half from private collections, never or rarely seen before. Again a beautiful day, so we hopped on a subway and went to Coney Island just to sit outside on the boardwalk and eat Nathan chili dogs, fries, and lemonade. Of course, not much is open there before Memorial Day, but it was a beautiful day to walk along the beach – reaching 85 degrees today!!
Dinner on Tuesday was at Nero in the Meatpacking district. We loved this little place – brick walls, rustic wood tables, and bare lightbulbs hanging over the tables. Super food, and the bartender gained points by serving my usual dry Robroy with onions instead of a twist – a first ever for me, and believe me I’ve had dry Robroy’s everywhere!
Wednesday morning was a nice midtown walk after breakfast, including stopping to get super shoeshines at Eddy’s in the basement of Rock Center – the best shoeshines. Lunch at the little Daniela Taverna on 8th and 45th, which was very nice – an old favorite for really inexpensive but good Italian food. We then saw the matinee of A Year of Magical Thinking – the one woman interpretation of the book by Vanessa Redgrave. What an actress. I was transfixed by her every word and even more by every tiny gesture. When she holds out her arm to show the bracelet she bought her daughter before she died, a little twist of her arm breaks your heart. She is amazing. But my biggest job was to nudge Lee whenever he started to snore. A little too ethereal and not enough action?
A huge storm came up just after we got out of the show and we raced to the apartment, just making it before the sky opened up.
It was still raining this evening when we went to Bistecca Fiorentina on 46th. The plan was to get their “famous” Florentine steaks, but they had a special of roasted baby goat which I couldn’t pass up, and Lee opted for a spinach ravioli with tons of crabmeat on top. When they brought the dessert tray and placed it on the table, Lee could not comprehend that he had to choose just ONE. He kept asking for a fork so he could dig in – and he wasn’t kidding, but we finally picked out the cheesecake and he scarfed it down.
Thursday, we took a morning walk and got some future theatre tickets, and then headed out to the Bronx Zoo (free in May with a Bank of America card). We had light lunch there first, and were a bit frightened by the MOBS of school kids, but by 1 PM they started clearing out and by 2 or so they were all gone and the zoo was delightfully quiet.
What a spread out zoo. What it lacks in quantity and variety of animals, it makes up for in the huge open cageless settings. The monorail through the woods and the Gorilla rainforest both cost extra, but are clearly the highlights of the entire zoo.
When the zoo closed at 5, we walked the 10 or 15 minutes to Arthur Avenue (the Little Italy of the Bronx). Had a great dinner at Mario’s. I opted for the Zuppa di Pesce, clams, scallops, shrimp, mussels, calamari, and who knows what else in a spicy and garlicky red sauce over linguini. Lee ordered a wonderful veal saltimbocca with a side of spaghetti. The waiter insisted we had ordered his two favorites. It was a great meal and we drank a fantastic bottle of a “young Super Tuscan” at a bargain price of $21. Again we had a repeat of Lee wanting the entire dessert tray, but he finally agreed to have just one – cheesecake again.
Friday morning was COLD. I think it was 42 when we got up. Took the subway to the New York Historic Society for an exhibit of Tiffany lamps and shades and some other glass all by a female Tiffany designer. Had never been there before, and we also enjoyed the Audubon exhibit – lots of original drawings and paintings of birds.
We had a cheap and good lunch at Ollie’s Noodle House on Broadway near Lincoln Center, then saw the French movie, The Valet, across from Lincoln Center. This evening we saw a fun new play called West Moon Street which is done in the style and dress of an Oscar Wilde comedy. Very good cast. Dinner followed at the Red Cat, 10th and 23rd. This is a great place and an old favorite we haven’t been to in ages, but was close to our play.
Saturday was still cold, and now we had rain off and on to add to it. We had lunch at Danny Meyer’s Blue Smoke – really great barbeque (and tremendous Applewood smoked half chicken). We got caught up afterwards at Union Square in the “dance” parade, apparently a protest of the anti-dance laws for cabarets in the city. There were all kinds of dancers – Belly, tap, step-dancers, tango, break – you name it. At 3 we saw a one man play called American Fiesta. A man becomes obsessed with buying Fiesta Ware on Ebay and elsewhere – which is sort of inspired by his parent’s unwillingness to accept his impending gay marriage in Canada.
Tonight we had dinner at Kellari Taverna on 44th near 5th. This place was wonderful. I love eating dinner at 8:30 in the theatre district when all the pre-theatre people have gone. We had wonderful service and two fish dishes that bordered on extraordinary. We’ll be back.
That wraps up the first week. More to come.
In any case here is WEEK ONE:
We flew from Miami to LaGuardia on Sunday, May 13, going first class on American as part of our FF Business Class to Europe freebie flight. The flight was nice – how could it not be in First Class? A light lunch was served. Arrival at LaGuardia was smooth and we got our luggage quicker than usual. We got an “instant” taxi right outside luggage pickup for American, and just 25 or 30 minutes later we arrived at 8th Avenue and West 50th at the apartment we are renting for a month. Taxi fare – just $27 plus $5 tip. I’ve decided Sunday afternoon is the BEST time to fly into New York as everything was so easy and there was so little traffic.
The owner of the apartment had stepped out (well, we did arrive about 45 minutes earlier than we had anticipated), but he alerted the concierge to let us into the apartment and we were already unpacked and half settled when he arrived. He showed us the electronics – a bank of stereo, TV, DVD, Fax, Printer, complete set up computer (but he helped me hook up my laptop instead, and multi phone lines with unlimited free calls in the US or Canada. We are on the 33rd floor with spectacular views to the north and west, and from the sort of bay in the living room, we can look east to Radio City Music Hall. The apartment is new, clean, and very comfortable, furnished in just so-so Ikea and similar furnishings. The kitchen has everything – right down to an espresso maker – none of which we’ll use, probably.
Sunday night’s dinner (this was Mother’s Day) was booked at our old favorite, Roberto Passon, just a block away and it didn’t disappoint. It was packed due to the crowd of Mom’s and kids, but service held up and the food was great as always.
At home, I am used to getting Lee up at about 8 AM, and then he spends two and a half to three hours showering, shaving, and obsessing about things like which was items on his vanity are facing, and polishing, then repolishing the shower when he gets out of it. So I was surprised to wake up at 7 AM to the sound of running water. Lee was in the shower. By 7:45 he was shaved, dressed, and anxious to go to breakfast. See what I mean about how he travels better? Although we plan to mainly eat breakfast in, we hadn’t yet been to the market (there is a great Food Emporium right in our building below us, and I love the Amish Market which is a block away on 9th). But this morning we went up the street to the simple Cosmic Diner, for standard basic breakfast – cheap and good. When I ordered my eggs and toast and the waitress asked “what kinda meat do you want with that?” and I said “none” she replied “why not?” Ah yes, we’re back in New York!
Our first order of business was to head to South Ferry then walk to the MTA office to get Lee’s senior reduced fare card. This is free to anyone over 65. I bought a one month unlimited MTA pass for $76. His would be $38. I expected this would be a zoo and we would be there for hours in lines. WRONG! Although we had taken a passport style photo for them to use, they insisted on taking another one as it would be easier to imprint on his card. We were there about 15 minutes total and left with his pass. The only “bad” part was the clerk asking if I wanted one too, and I informed her it would be 5 years before I could come back to get one – to which she quickly (but not quickly enough) replied “not that you look old enough to get one”. We walked the Wall Street area, visiting Trinity Church and the fascinating cemetery for the first time ever. We found ourselves drawn to Ground Zero, and walked around a bit. We’ve been there several times, but it still overwhelms one with emotion, just being there by that giant hole in the ground.
Lunch was inside the huge and antique basement safe deposit vault at Bobby Van’s Grill, just opposite the New York Stock Exhange. Wonderful hamburger for Lee, and an even better sliced steak open faced sandwich for me. I asked for “no fries, but a side of sautéed spinach” and got a huge mount of the wonderful garlicky stuff, and was surprised there was no charge to do so.
We were going to take the subway back to midtown from South Ferry, but it was a beautiful day and there we were, so we hopped onto the Staten Island Ferry instead, to do the round trip past the Statue of Liberty. After returning, we headed back to the apartment.
At 6 PM we met Fodorite Mclaurie and a friend at the bar at Abbocato in the Blakely Hotel. We had discovered online we both had tickets to City Center tonight for the Encores production of Stairway to Paradise, right across the street. The show was wonderful – how could it not be, starring Kristen Chenoweth? After the show, we couldn’t find Mclaurie, but knew they were headed back to Long Island, so we went off to have a late dinner at Matt’s Grill, a “neighborhood” place on 8th that was highly recommended. What a disappointment. I had a chicken Caesar and I think the sliced chicken breast had been cooked for a few hours about a week before – almost too dried out to eat. Lee had a pasta that was beyond bland. Oh well, we’re determined to make this our only “bad” meal of the trip – how’s that for optimism?
Tuesday morning we walked to the special Monet exhibition at the Wildenstein Gallery at 64th and Madison. Loved the small but wonderful collection – about half from private collections, never or rarely seen before. Again a beautiful day, so we hopped on a subway and went to Coney Island just to sit outside on the boardwalk and eat Nathan chili dogs, fries, and lemonade. Of course, not much is open there before Memorial Day, but it was a beautiful day to walk along the beach – reaching 85 degrees today!!
Dinner on Tuesday was at Nero in the Meatpacking district. We loved this little place – brick walls, rustic wood tables, and bare lightbulbs hanging over the tables. Super food, and the bartender gained points by serving my usual dry Robroy with onions instead of a twist – a first ever for me, and believe me I’ve had dry Robroy’s everywhere!
Wednesday morning was a nice midtown walk after breakfast, including stopping to get super shoeshines at Eddy’s in the basement of Rock Center – the best shoeshines. Lunch at the little Daniela Taverna on 8th and 45th, which was very nice – an old favorite for really inexpensive but good Italian food. We then saw the matinee of A Year of Magical Thinking – the one woman interpretation of the book by Vanessa Redgrave. What an actress. I was transfixed by her every word and even more by every tiny gesture. When she holds out her arm to show the bracelet she bought her daughter before she died, a little twist of her arm breaks your heart. She is amazing. But my biggest job was to nudge Lee whenever he started to snore. A little too ethereal and not enough action?
A huge storm came up just after we got out of the show and we raced to the apartment, just making it before the sky opened up.
It was still raining this evening when we went to Bistecca Fiorentina on 46th. The plan was to get their “famous” Florentine steaks, but they had a special of roasted baby goat which I couldn’t pass up, and Lee opted for a spinach ravioli with tons of crabmeat on top. When they brought the dessert tray and placed it on the table, Lee could not comprehend that he had to choose just ONE. He kept asking for a fork so he could dig in – and he wasn’t kidding, but we finally picked out the cheesecake and he scarfed it down.
Thursday, we took a morning walk and got some future theatre tickets, and then headed out to the Bronx Zoo (free in May with a Bank of America card). We had light lunch there first, and were a bit frightened by the MOBS of school kids, but by 1 PM they started clearing out and by 2 or so they were all gone and the zoo was delightfully quiet.
What a spread out zoo. What it lacks in quantity and variety of animals, it makes up for in the huge open cageless settings. The monorail through the woods and the Gorilla rainforest both cost extra, but are clearly the highlights of the entire zoo.
When the zoo closed at 5, we walked the 10 or 15 minutes to Arthur Avenue (the Little Italy of the Bronx). Had a great dinner at Mario’s. I opted for the Zuppa di Pesce, clams, scallops, shrimp, mussels, calamari, and who knows what else in a spicy and garlicky red sauce over linguini. Lee ordered a wonderful veal saltimbocca with a side of spaghetti. The waiter insisted we had ordered his two favorites. It was a great meal and we drank a fantastic bottle of a “young Super Tuscan” at a bargain price of $21. Again we had a repeat of Lee wanting the entire dessert tray, but he finally agreed to have just one – cheesecake again.
Friday morning was COLD. I think it was 42 when we got up. Took the subway to the New York Historic Society for an exhibit of Tiffany lamps and shades and some other glass all by a female Tiffany designer. Had never been there before, and we also enjoyed the Audubon exhibit – lots of original drawings and paintings of birds.
We had a cheap and good lunch at Ollie’s Noodle House on Broadway near Lincoln Center, then saw the French movie, The Valet, across from Lincoln Center. This evening we saw a fun new play called West Moon Street which is done in the style and dress of an Oscar Wilde comedy. Very good cast. Dinner followed at the Red Cat, 10th and 23rd. This is a great place and an old favorite we haven’t been to in ages, but was close to our play.
Saturday was still cold, and now we had rain off and on to add to it. We had lunch at Danny Meyer’s Blue Smoke – really great barbeque (and tremendous Applewood smoked half chicken). We got caught up afterwards at Union Square in the “dance” parade, apparently a protest of the anti-dance laws for cabarets in the city. There were all kinds of dancers – Belly, tap, step-dancers, tango, break – you name it. At 3 we saw a one man play called American Fiesta. A man becomes obsessed with buying Fiesta Ware on Ebay and elsewhere – which is sort of inspired by his parent’s unwillingness to accept his impending gay marriage in Canada.
Tonight we had dinner at Kellari Taverna on 44th near 5th. This place was wonderful. I love eating dinner at 8:30 in the theatre district when all the pre-theatre people have gone. We had wonderful service and two fish dishes that bordered on extraordinary. We’ll be back.
That wraps up the first week. More to come.
May 21st, 2007, 06:59 AM
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Patrick;
I am so enjoying your NY report. Seem's as though you've been there more than once
I am going to try some of the restaurants you have told us about. But, I'll have to pass on the baby goat, it's all greek to me.
Can't wait till the next post.
Theresa in Detroit.
I am so enjoying your NY report. Seem's as though you've been there more than once
I am going to try some of the restaurants you have told us about. But, I'll have to pass on the baby goat, it's all greek to me.Can't wait till the next post.
Theresa in Detroit.
May 21st, 2007, 07:22 AM
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Glad that you and Lee are having such a good time, wonderful that he still enjoys travel as I realize that it has been a big part of your lives. Your first week sounds great and I'm looking forward to reading more. I've made note of your restaurant selections, thanks for the details!
Enjoy week #2!
Enjoy week #2!
May 21st, 2007, 08:13 AM
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Hi Patrick. Glad to hear that you and Lee are having a great time in New York and glad to hear that Lee still loves to travel. I am with Barbara-can't believe Lee qualifies for the senior discount!!
Have a wonderful time. I am looking forward to your next post. I will be in NYC in August so will be interested in the shows you recommend.
Have a wonderful time. I am looking forward to your next post. I will be in NYC in August so will be interested in the shows you recommend.
May 21st, 2007, 08:22 AM
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LOL, Lee reminds me of one of my brothers. We're from a military family so it's amazing that any of us takes that much timwe getting ready!
Sounds like you are having a great time. My daughter and I decided we are going to NYC for a week in the fall of 2009. I wish it was sooner!
Sounds like you are having a great time. My daughter and I decided we are going to NYC for a week in the fall of 2009. I wish it was sooner!
May 21st, 2007, 09:43 AM
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Welcome to NY (again) Patrick! After all the times you've mentioned Roberto Passon, I am *really* going to have to try it! Just had a look at Citysearch... are there really such issues with service?
