Capitol Limited/Empire Builder—Training Myself to Fall Even More In Love With the western North American Landscape. Washington DC to Seattle (and Victoria BC)
Jun 29th, 2008, 02:07 PM
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Capitol Limited/Empire Builder—Training Myself to Fall Even More In Love With the western North American Landscape. Washington DC to Seattle (and Victoria BC)
Originating in Montreal, this trip report will focus on the parts of the journey that were covering ground I�d never seen before. Essentially, the Empire Builder train from Chicago to Seattle brought me into contact with 4 states I�d never seen before: North Dakota, Montana, Idaho and Washington, bringing my total apparently to 40 states of the 50 (not that I�m keeping count LOL). My third transcontinental train ride (and one of only five), having been inspired in the past by Amtrak�s California Zephyr (Chicago-San Francisco) and VIA Rail�s Canadian journey (Toronto-Vancouver) in years prior. A dream trip for me that I�d been plotting for a few years now to see more of the continent without seeing an airport (I returned via the Canadian train from Vancouver to Toronto/Montreal).
This is not to say that I did not enjoy the multicoloured landscape (sadly thanks to the beetle-infected rust-coloured conifers but still beautiful) and lakes of the boreal forest of the Adirondacks on the Montreal-NYC bus. And not to say that I was not captivated by the variety of plants seen in the various ecosystems during my first visit to the Botanical Gardens in Washington DC with my Mom visiting the parents in the capital city. And certainly the rapids of the Allegheny River and Harper�s Ferry with the high slopes of deciduous forest that day shrouded in fog on the Capitol Limited train from DC-Chicago held my eyes glued to the window rather than my novel. All this and more on terrain I�d covered before indeed captured my imagination� but the eye-opening stretch was the Empire Builder.
**CHICAGO-MINNEAPOLIS**
Arriving in Union Station on June 15th, the Chicago-San Francisco train had been cancelled due to flooding in Iowa; flooding in the Wisconsin Dells area forced Amtrak to put Empire Builder passengers on a bus from Chicago to Minneapolis/St. Paul. It was not an easy task loading up octogenarians and luggage onto a bus for an 8.5 hour bus ride. The traffic taking almost 2 hours from downtown Chicago to O�Hare Airport on Sunday at 2pm (I don�t see how suburban Chicagolander commuters do it) this was not an auspicious beginning to my �dream� trip. As our bus continued west on I-90/I-94 near Wisconsin Dells, we could only consider ourselves lucky to be able to pass through at all, with rivers with banks swollen to such a degree that trees were half-submerged and in some spots, we could see river with swift current lapping the sides of the shoulder of the highway, enough so that eastbound traffic had to be diverted onto side roads. Passing through so much territory on a train, natural disasters such as wildfires, floods and landslides are always a potential spoiler for transcontinental journeys, but focusing on any discomfort, inconvenience or concerns about tardiness we may have felt just seemed too self-absorbed in light of some of the destruction we�d observed. Most passengers were remarkably understanding�
** FARGO-GLACIER**
Exhausted upon arrival at the Minneapolis/St. Paul depot at 10:45pm, I quickly fell asleep once aboard my roomette and did not wake until Fargo, North Dakota on June 16th. Generally speaking, much of the landscape for the first day of the train ride was pretty flat with the occasional hill before the approach into East Glacier, Montana toward 8pm. Even this relatively low-key-scenery portion had its moments, such as crossing a high steel trestle bridge (Gassman Coulee) BIG drops on either side and gorgeous foothills surrounding near Minot, ND. While mostly red-wing blackbirds (a truly national bird), cattle and horses dotted the countryside, near White Earth, ND, some creature that looked distinctly like a black-and-white yak (not possible; yaks are in the Himalayas) was peacefully grazing on the side of the hill; still haven�t figured that one out yet. Viewing low mesas in the distance, I was surprised to see teepees in parts of central Montana, thinking this habitation was relegated to the past (somebody told me they�re used more for camping).
During this quieter portion of the journey, Amtrak offered up a wine-tasting to showcase wines produced in Washington State, from Silverlake Merlot, Columbia Crest Shiraz to whites courtesy of Château Ste. Michelle and one by 14 Hands. Sipping wine in the café car, with the remote-feeling Big Sky region of northern Montana as background, passing by places like Roundhouse Bar & Casino in cattle country, really was a pretty pleasant way to spend an afternoon, and certainly far from my day-to-day reality. One section of checkerboard green and beige fields (bumpy so as to look like almost an endless sea of grassy bubble wrap) was especially beautiful.
**GLACIER-SEATTLE**
Steep-walled gaping crevices or chasms at one point in central Montana started cutting through the grassy hills, breaking up the serenity of the landscape. Shortly after the town of Cut Bank (8pm) sitting delicately perched above a high gorge (in the heart of Blackfoot territory), the snow-capped peaks of Waterton Glacier International Peace Park appeared majestically on the horizon. Soon the white-crusted black mountains of Glacier Park (whose creeks feed Arctic, Pacific and Gulf of Mexico) surround the train like giants in a spectacular semicircle. With these peaks as backdrop, rushing rapids of Bear Creek or the powerful Flathead River churn in the valley many feet below the intermediate ledge we travel on, sometimes crossed over with spectacular, vertiginous effect via trestle bridge. While the day had started off relatively tranquilly, it had ended with a spectacular bang with the arrival of the Continental Divide, making all the struggles of the day before seem worthwhile.
My last day on the train, the morning of the 17th and I awoke to a mysterious-looking landscape of desert, with geological formations that looked like red-orange brick walls coated with a yellow lichen that gave the appearance of crumbling of the sides. This was the so-called sage steppe of eastern Washington, and certainly not a landscape one would typically associate with the �Evergreen State�. Soon the powerful and wide Columbia River appeared, creating a wide swath of dark blue, tremendously contrasting with the otherwise scrub and orange/brown landscape of mesas and cliff faces. Soon enough though fertililty with apple orchards and vineyards appeared to the side of the river, and the greenness gradually morphed into the Cascade Mountain region, an area of majestic fir, pine and spruce-filled mountainous landscapes, liberally criss-crossed with magnificent rushing rivers and streams (the Skykomish River for example) one usually associates with Pacific Northwest. Random waterfalls periodically would whoosh down the side at unexpected intervals.
As a friendly Seattleite gave ideas for my first ever visit to the Emerald City, we enjoyed looking out at clam-diggers in their boots, numerous cranes and best of all, seeing not one not two but three bald eagles majestically landing on sand bars looking out into the Puget sound. This, my first time ever seeing the graceful US National Bird (perhaps not as nationwide as the red-wing blackbird, but a more regal bird) brought great excitement for visiting the Pacific Northwest, a sense of anticipation for what was to come.
**First visit to Seattle and Victoria to follow�*
This is not to say that I did not enjoy the multicoloured landscape (sadly thanks to the beetle-infected rust-coloured conifers but still beautiful) and lakes of the boreal forest of the Adirondacks on the Montreal-NYC bus. And not to say that I was not captivated by the variety of plants seen in the various ecosystems during my first visit to the Botanical Gardens in Washington DC with my Mom visiting the parents in the capital city. And certainly the rapids of the Allegheny River and Harper�s Ferry with the high slopes of deciduous forest that day shrouded in fog on the Capitol Limited train from DC-Chicago held my eyes glued to the window rather than my novel. All this and more on terrain I�d covered before indeed captured my imagination� but the eye-opening stretch was the Empire Builder.
**CHICAGO-MINNEAPOLIS**
Arriving in Union Station on June 15th, the Chicago-San Francisco train had been cancelled due to flooding in Iowa; flooding in the Wisconsin Dells area forced Amtrak to put Empire Builder passengers on a bus from Chicago to Minneapolis/St. Paul. It was not an easy task loading up octogenarians and luggage onto a bus for an 8.5 hour bus ride. The traffic taking almost 2 hours from downtown Chicago to O�Hare Airport on Sunday at 2pm (I don�t see how suburban Chicagolander commuters do it) this was not an auspicious beginning to my �dream� trip. As our bus continued west on I-90/I-94 near Wisconsin Dells, we could only consider ourselves lucky to be able to pass through at all, with rivers with banks swollen to such a degree that trees were half-submerged and in some spots, we could see river with swift current lapping the sides of the shoulder of the highway, enough so that eastbound traffic had to be diverted onto side roads. Passing through so much territory on a train, natural disasters such as wildfires, floods and landslides are always a potential spoiler for transcontinental journeys, but focusing on any discomfort, inconvenience or concerns about tardiness we may have felt just seemed too self-absorbed in light of some of the destruction we�d observed. Most passengers were remarkably understanding�
** FARGO-GLACIER**
Exhausted upon arrival at the Minneapolis/St. Paul depot at 10:45pm, I quickly fell asleep once aboard my roomette and did not wake until Fargo, North Dakota on June 16th. Generally speaking, much of the landscape for the first day of the train ride was pretty flat with the occasional hill before the approach into East Glacier, Montana toward 8pm. Even this relatively low-key-scenery portion had its moments, such as crossing a high steel trestle bridge (Gassman Coulee) BIG drops on either side and gorgeous foothills surrounding near Minot, ND. While mostly red-wing blackbirds (a truly national bird), cattle and horses dotted the countryside, near White Earth, ND, some creature that looked distinctly like a black-and-white yak (not possible; yaks are in the Himalayas) was peacefully grazing on the side of the hill; still haven�t figured that one out yet. Viewing low mesas in the distance, I was surprised to see teepees in parts of central Montana, thinking this habitation was relegated to the past (somebody told me they�re used more for camping).
During this quieter portion of the journey, Amtrak offered up a wine-tasting to showcase wines produced in Washington State, from Silverlake Merlot, Columbia Crest Shiraz to whites courtesy of Château Ste. Michelle and one by 14 Hands. Sipping wine in the café car, with the remote-feeling Big Sky region of northern Montana as background, passing by places like Roundhouse Bar & Casino in cattle country, really was a pretty pleasant way to spend an afternoon, and certainly far from my day-to-day reality. One section of checkerboard green and beige fields (bumpy so as to look like almost an endless sea of grassy bubble wrap) was especially beautiful.
**GLACIER-SEATTLE**
Steep-walled gaping crevices or chasms at one point in central Montana started cutting through the grassy hills, breaking up the serenity of the landscape. Shortly after the town of Cut Bank (8pm) sitting delicately perched above a high gorge (in the heart of Blackfoot territory), the snow-capped peaks of Waterton Glacier International Peace Park appeared majestically on the horizon. Soon the white-crusted black mountains of Glacier Park (whose creeks feed Arctic, Pacific and Gulf of Mexico) surround the train like giants in a spectacular semicircle. With these peaks as backdrop, rushing rapids of Bear Creek or the powerful Flathead River churn in the valley many feet below the intermediate ledge we travel on, sometimes crossed over with spectacular, vertiginous effect via trestle bridge. While the day had started off relatively tranquilly, it had ended with a spectacular bang with the arrival of the Continental Divide, making all the struggles of the day before seem worthwhile.
My last day on the train, the morning of the 17th and I awoke to a mysterious-looking landscape of desert, with geological formations that looked like red-orange brick walls coated with a yellow lichen that gave the appearance of crumbling of the sides. This was the so-called sage steppe of eastern Washington, and certainly not a landscape one would typically associate with the �Evergreen State�. Soon the powerful and wide Columbia River appeared, creating a wide swath of dark blue, tremendously contrasting with the otherwise scrub and orange/brown landscape of mesas and cliff faces. Soon enough though fertililty with apple orchards and vineyards appeared to the side of the river, and the greenness gradually morphed into the Cascade Mountain region, an area of majestic fir, pine and spruce-filled mountainous landscapes, liberally criss-crossed with magnificent rushing rivers and streams (the Skykomish River for example) one usually associates with Pacific Northwest. Random waterfalls periodically would whoosh down the side at unexpected intervals.
As a friendly Seattleite gave ideas for my first ever visit to the Emerald City, we enjoyed looking out at clam-diggers in their boots, numerous cranes and best of all, seeing not one not two but three bald eagles majestically landing on sand bars looking out into the Puget sound. This, my first time ever seeing the graceful US National Bird (perhaps not as nationwide as the red-wing blackbird, but a more regal bird) brought great excitement for visiting the Pacific Northwest, a sense of anticipation for what was to come.
**First visit to Seattle and Victoria to follow�*
Jun 29th, 2008, 02:18 PM
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Daniel_Williams, I am truly anticipating the next segment of your journey.
Reading your first segment was so delightful and removed me mentally for a bit from what these last days have brought. A trip without seeing an airport. Paradise!
Reading your first segment was so delightful and removed me mentally for a bit from what these last days have brought. A trip without seeing an airport. Paradise!
Jun 30th, 2008, 02:54 AM
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Dan, Beautifully written. The Yak comment was puzzeling to me also. The only brown, white and black animals in that area that I know of are Pronghorn antelope but they don't have long shaggy hair! Maybe it was a Yak...crazy rich Americans! Did they serve Microwave dinners?
Jun 30th, 2008, 04:57 AM
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Dan - thoroughly enjoyable as usual. I'd also like to hear more about your latest experience with Amtrak itself - service, meals, state of equipment, etc. (I know. No comparison with The Canadian, but info would be helpful).
Jun 30th, 2008, 07:57 AM
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Hello
Thanks all for reading and your kind comments. As for that yak, somebody said maybe it was some sort of long-haired cattle... I must investigate further.
Dukey, dfr4848. As suggested, given my experiences on the three transcontinental journeys I've done, I'll try to compare and give feedback on the service, equipment, food, etc... Two Amtrak: Empire Builder (Chicago/Minneapolis-Seattle), California Zephyr (Chicago-SF)and one VIA Rail: the Canadian (Toronto-Vancouver).
AMTRAK.
*PRICE*
Significantly less expensive than VIA Rail (US$1100 for roomette DC-Seattle vs. CAN$1600 for the less private berth Toronto-Vancouver), and the $US is about on par with $CAN these days. Prices do depend on advance purchase, senior with companion, etc... so better rates perhaps are possible on both.
*FOOD*
VIA's meals were consistently like that one gets in a high-quality restaurant... several courses with cloth napkins/tablecloths, wine glasses, desserts with a coulis, dishes flavourful and professionally presented, local BC and Ontario wines and beers available as suggested accompaniments to various dishes. Menus professionally presented in 4 languages. Frankly, I'm not used to being so spoiled.
Amtrak. More low-frills diner-like experience for sure. For example, salads with iceberg lettuce in a disposable wood-coloured plastic bowl with squeeze sacks of Kraft French, Ranch or Italian on the side. However, certain dishes I had such as the tilapia with a red sauce were tasty, tender and flavourful. So, it's not all burgers and fries either.
Food, drink comes with cost of sleeper on both; juice and coffee available throughout. Alcohol (with exception of wine-tasting AMTRAK and complimentary champagne leaving Vancouver and Rockies VIA) extra.
Some passengers found reasons to complain about food/dining-car service on VIA and Amtrak. Frankly, I know these days what I'm in for and generally, it's mostly just a pleasureful break for me to not have to do the dishes, go grocery shopping and prepare food.
**LATENESS**
They *all* were late this time around. Capitol Limited. 3.5 hrs. late into Chicago. Empire Builder. 1.5 hrs. late into Seattle. Canadian. 3.5 hrs. late into Toronto. Some people get very agitated, rancorous about this; I kind of expect and plan for it. I appreciated this comment this 80-something year old trainbuff said, "3 hours extra on a train at no extra cost!".
**SERVICE**
On both, these folks are working hard on little sleep, helping people with luggage at multiple stops, getting blankets/water/etc for passengers, setting up beds. I'm maybe the wrong person to analyze this based on personal philosophy. I clean up after myself in the washrooms and don't impose on them because other passengers do a great job at running them ragged.
**EQUIPMENT**
Dome/park car with panoramic views up high on Canadian is still there and is special. No such option on Empire Builder/California Zephyr but lounge car and dining car have wide windows and views on either side. Roommette on Empire Builder seemed updated this time around with modern push button system for ceiling lights and reading lights, new upper bunk setup but less room for luggage.
I'm really not an expert on this subject though.
**Extra Touches**
Canadian. Musician playing folk music as the train leaves Vancouver; very cool! Games car with cards/checkers/chess and souvenirs. Stops in Winnipeg and Jasper central and long enough to allow one to explore those towns a bit.
Empire Builder & California Zephyr. The Washington State wine-tasting made me feel that certain people in Amtrak are really trying to make the experience special with limited budget. National Park employees (Trails & Rails program) discuss geology and history in both Glacier Park and Colorado Rockies.
**Scenery**
I liked the whole ride for all the trains, but for those who just want the most breathtaking portions IMO would be:
CANADIAN: Hinton, AB-Vancouver
EMPIRE BUILDER:Cut Bank, MT-Seattle
CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR: Denver-Salt Lake City; Reno-SF
And the scenic portions are quite different on each of the trains. One does not preclude or diminish the awe one feels toward the others.
The California Zephyr has the multicoloured tall Glenwood Canyon looming on either side of you around the Colorado River and unbelievable precipitous drops with river snaking thousands of feet below in the coniferous Sierra Nevada.
The Canadian has grey-coloured snow-capped Canadian Rockies with long-horn sheep that loom above you (the mountains not the sheep LOL)and milky lakes and rivers.
The Empire Builder has that semicircle of snow-capped black mountains that surround in Glacier and the eerie beauty of the Columbia River surrounded by mesas/desert.
This is the majesty of our planet and all petty complaints one might have about iceberg lettuce or Kraft dressing seem insignificant in the face of such beauty. I just feel privileged to have observed it all and the train was my vehicle for doing so.
This said, the train is not for everyone...some people can't sleep, others can't get past the faults, some can't tolerate the lateness. For me, even though this latest adventure was beset with backaching challenges like the unexpected 8.75 hr. bus ride from Chicago-Minneapolis (due to an act of nature, where it's hard to feel sorry for oneself too much, given the homes and livelihoods destroyed in the Wisconsin Dells region and ooh-aah your vacation was mildly inconvenienced) to catch the Empire Builder, I still felt thankful for the incredible experience of crossing the country by train.
Thanks again for reading.
DAN
Thanks all for reading and your kind comments. As for that yak, somebody said maybe it was some sort of long-haired cattle... I must investigate further.
Dukey, dfr4848. As suggested, given my experiences on the three transcontinental journeys I've done, I'll try to compare and give feedback on the service, equipment, food, etc... Two Amtrak: Empire Builder (Chicago/Minneapolis-Seattle), California Zephyr (Chicago-SF)and one VIA Rail: the Canadian (Toronto-Vancouver).
AMTRAK.
*PRICE*
Significantly less expensive than VIA Rail (US$1100 for roomette DC-Seattle vs. CAN$1600 for the less private berth Toronto-Vancouver), and the $US is about on par with $CAN these days. Prices do depend on advance purchase, senior with companion, etc... so better rates perhaps are possible on both.
*FOOD*
VIA's meals were consistently like that one gets in a high-quality restaurant... several courses with cloth napkins/tablecloths, wine glasses, desserts with a coulis, dishes flavourful and professionally presented, local BC and Ontario wines and beers available as suggested accompaniments to various dishes. Menus professionally presented in 4 languages. Frankly, I'm not used to being so spoiled.
Amtrak. More low-frills diner-like experience for sure. For example, salads with iceberg lettuce in a disposable wood-coloured plastic bowl with squeeze sacks of Kraft French, Ranch or Italian on the side. However, certain dishes I had such as the tilapia with a red sauce were tasty, tender and flavourful. So, it's not all burgers and fries either.
Food, drink comes with cost of sleeper on both; juice and coffee available throughout. Alcohol (with exception of wine-tasting AMTRAK and complimentary champagne leaving Vancouver and Rockies VIA) extra.
Some passengers found reasons to complain about food/dining-car service on VIA and Amtrak. Frankly, I know these days what I'm in for and generally, it's mostly just a pleasureful break for me to not have to do the dishes, go grocery shopping and prepare food.
**LATENESS**
They *all* were late this time around. Capitol Limited. 3.5 hrs. late into Chicago. Empire Builder. 1.5 hrs. late into Seattle. Canadian. 3.5 hrs. late into Toronto. Some people get very agitated, rancorous about this; I kind of expect and plan for it. I appreciated this comment this 80-something year old trainbuff said, "3 hours extra on a train at no extra cost!".
**SERVICE**
On both, these folks are working hard on little sleep, helping people with luggage at multiple stops, getting blankets/water/etc for passengers, setting up beds. I'm maybe the wrong person to analyze this based on personal philosophy. I clean up after myself in the washrooms and don't impose on them because other passengers do a great job at running them ragged.
**EQUIPMENT**
Dome/park car with panoramic views up high on Canadian is still there and is special. No such option on Empire Builder/California Zephyr but lounge car and dining car have wide windows and views on either side. Roommette on Empire Builder seemed updated this time around with modern push button system for ceiling lights and reading lights, new upper bunk setup but less room for luggage.
I'm really not an expert on this subject though.
**Extra Touches**
Canadian. Musician playing folk music as the train leaves Vancouver; very cool! Games car with cards/checkers/chess and souvenirs. Stops in Winnipeg and Jasper central and long enough to allow one to explore those towns a bit.
Empire Builder & California Zephyr. The Washington State wine-tasting made me feel that certain people in Amtrak are really trying to make the experience special with limited budget. National Park employees (Trails & Rails program) discuss geology and history in both Glacier Park and Colorado Rockies.
**Scenery**
I liked the whole ride for all the trains, but for those who just want the most breathtaking portions IMO would be:
CANADIAN: Hinton, AB-Vancouver
EMPIRE BUILDER:Cut Bank, MT-Seattle
CALIFORNIA ZEPHYR: Denver-Salt Lake City; Reno-SF
And the scenic portions are quite different on each of the trains. One does not preclude or diminish the awe one feels toward the others.
The California Zephyr has the multicoloured tall Glenwood Canyon looming on either side of you around the Colorado River and unbelievable precipitous drops with river snaking thousands of feet below in the coniferous Sierra Nevada.
The Canadian has grey-coloured snow-capped Canadian Rockies with long-horn sheep that loom above you (the mountains not the sheep LOL)and milky lakes and rivers.
The Empire Builder has that semicircle of snow-capped black mountains that surround in Glacier and the eerie beauty of the Columbia River surrounded by mesas/desert.
This is the majesty of our planet and all petty complaints one might have about iceberg lettuce or Kraft dressing seem insignificant in the face of such beauty. I just feel privileged to have observed it all and the train was my vehicle for doing so.
This said, the train is not for everyone...some people can't sleep, others can't get past the faults, some can't tolerate the lateness. For me, even though this latest adventure was beset with backaching challenges like the unexpected 8.75 hr. bus ride from Chicago-Minneapolis (due to an act of nature, where it's hard to feel sorry for oneself too much, given the homes and livelihoods destroyed in the Wisconsin Dells region and ooh-aah your vacation was mildly inconvenienced) to catch the Empire Builder, I still felt thankful for the incredible experience of crossing the country by train.
Thanks again for reading.
DAN
Jun 30th, 2008, 10:16 AM
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Dan - thanks for the thoroughness of the detail.
The Park cars have always been my favorite. Incredible place to see sunrises. I'd always get there before dawn (and before most people) and enjoyed the solitude with the scenery, along with usually being first for the coffee and pastries they put out. [I grew up traveling between New Orleans and Chicago on the IC's Panama Limited visiting family, so the old tear-drop ob cars have special memories for me - especially when the speedometer would hit 110+ mph].
Anxious to read the rest.
The Park cars have always been my favorite. Incredible place to see sunrises. I'd always get there before dawn (and before most people) and enjoyed the solitude with the scenery, along with usually being first for the coffee and pastries they put out. [I grew up traveling between New Orleans and Chicago on the IC's Panama Limited visiting family, so the old tear-drop ob cars have special memories for me - especially when the speedometer would hit 110+ mph].
Anxious to read the rest.
Jun 30th, 2008, 01:46 PM
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I decided to post the Seattle portion as a separate entry, since I felt the train journey would not be of interest to prospective Seattle visitors arriving by other means of transport.
Here's the link to the Seattle visit for those interested.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=35140799
Here's the link to the Seattle visit for those interested.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...1&tid=35140799
Jul 1st, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Here's the Victoria portion of the journey for those who are interested...
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...9&tid=35141002
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...9&tid=35141002
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