plr

If anyone here has driven this road and toured down the coast from Calais, can you please detail your opinion and experience of this trip? I will be traveling solo, have just 2 weeks in September, and will not be camping, but needing to watch my budget. I'm concerned about the apparent isolation and distance between towns on Rt. 9. However, since I only want to devote 2 days to this area of the coast, I hate the idea of going from Bangor to Ellsworth, traveling east and then having to cover all the same ground coming back. What say you all?

plr

Bumping to the top. Sorry for the complicated subject line. Just need info on doing the less traveled from Bangor to Calais and then down to Bar Harbor area.

dfrostnh

It's been many years since we did a similar trip when we went to PEI. Rt 9 is called the airline route but wikipedia says it's an old expression for shortcut. I think there is supposed to be more trucking on that route. I remember blueberry farms. Isolation and distance are correct. It's almost a surprise when you get to Calais and there are stores, etc. Maybe someone with more recent experience will be more helpful.

RetiredVermonter

We've driven across from VT to various parts of the coast of Maine several times, including trips up across to NB from Calais, usually up Route 1 from southern Maine or midcoast.

We drove Rte 9 a number of years ago and Rte 9 IS pretty isolated! As dfrostnh says, we remember a lot of blueberry farms up there, but not much else! Can you tell us more? Why you are going from Bangor to Calais, specifically, instead of doing Rte 1?

BTW, we always remember a little white restaurant, on the left of Rte 1, as you go north, way up in Pembroke, Maine, because it had the BEST lobster stew we have ever had anywhere! We always stopped for lunch there en route to NB. There was a LOT of lobster (sticking out of the bowl), butter and cream -- period!

Anyway, if you can share more, we may be able to help more.

xxx30

TOMBSTONE EVERY MILE Song of the airline.
(Dan Fulkerson)

Dick Curless - 1965
Red Simpson - 1967

Also recorded by: Bill Kirchen; David Allan Coe;
Nick Lowe; Big Road; Dave Dudley; Charlie Moore.


All you big and burly men who roll the trucks along
Better listen, you'll be thankful when you hear my song
You have really got it made, if you're haulin' goods
Anyplace on earth but those Hainesville Woods

It's a stretch of road up north in Maine
That's never, ever, ever seen a smile
If they buried all the truckers lost in them Woods
There'd be a tombstone every mile
Count 'em off, there'd be a tombstone every mile

When you're loaded with potatoes and you're headed down
You've gotta drive the Woods to get to Boston town
When it's winter up in Maine, better check it over twice
That Hainesville road is just a ribbon of ice

It's a stretch of road up north in Maine
That's never, ever, ever seen a smile
If they buried all the truckers lost in them Woods
There'd be a tombstone every mile
Count 'em off, there'd be a tombstone every mile

When you're talkin' to a trucker that's been haulin' goods
Down that stretch of road in Maine they call the Hainesville Woods
He'll tell you that dying and goin' down below
Won't be half as bad as driving on that road of ice and snow

It's a stretch of road up north in Maine
That's never, ever, ever seen a smile
If they buried all the truckers lost in them Woods
There'd be a tombstone every mile
Count 'em off, there'd be a tombstone every mile

120aks

We drove highway 1 all the way to Calais last year and it is slow go through all of the small towns and there is virtually no ocean view unless you go out on the fingers and back. Also, the road is narrow and winding above Acadia all the way to Calais.Knowing what I know now I would have stayed on 95 and also would not have gone as far north as Calais.If you do decide to do it stay at the Redclyffe in. It has a great view and an amazing on sight restaurant.

CoastWatcher

Route 9 from Brewer to Calais isn't the roller coaster ride it once was. The highway has been widened and upgraded, and the trip itself takes perhaps two hours. Do not be put off by the relative "isolation," there are stores and gas stations at regular intervals. Route 1 from Calais back to Ellsworth has some wonderful aspects, starting with Robbinston just south of Calais on Route 1. Look for the B&B on the right with the twin columned porches. It was one of the last stops on the Underground Railroad that smuggled slaves to Canada.

Take a quick detour off Route 1 to Eastport, the easternmost city in the US. The WaCo Diner downtown is worth a stop for local color. Don't be surprised of a grizzled local slaps a fresh-caught mackerel on the counter to show they're running.

Farther down Route 1 you can take the turn to Lubec and visit Franklin Roosevelt's summer place on Campobello Island, which is in Canada but accessed by bridge from Lubec. In Machias stop at Helen's Restaurant and have a piece of legendary strawberry pie. Beyond Machias you'll be crossing the blueberry barrens, which turn bright red in autumn. Pay special attention to the incredible Victorian homes in Cherryfield. Ignore the malls in Ellsworth and explore the downtown. Much more rewarding.

CoastWatcher

BTW, the song "Tombstone Every Mile" refers to Route 2 running through the Haynesville Woods south of Houlton, not the Airline (Route 9). Although in its heyday the Airline probably qualified as well.

plr

Hadn’t checked back since 6/3, and it is so great to read such helpful replies! Thanks to each of you for the time and thought you put into your notes. I love this message board! Retired Vermonter, and dfrostnh—that “isolation & not much else” is what I was thinking might be the case. As I mentioned, I did not have any desire to go out east on Rt.1 and then backtrack on the same road. I only have 2 weeks. RetVer, if I do travel this stretch, I’ll certainly find that “little white restaurant” if I can. You write an appealing recommendation, for sure! And xxx30, your post had me truly laughing out loud. Thanks. I get it, even if it might not be the same exact road, haha. 12Oaks, I appreciate hearing your experience and recommendation. And CoastWatcher, nice to have details of points of interest in the less populated and less well-traveled part of the coast. At this point I’m still undecided, but leaning toward skipping this section of the coast in favor of other areas. Thanks again to all of you!

DonTopaz

If you like puffins, or even if you don't know what they are, there's a unique opportunity to see them up-close, An outfit called Norton of Jonesport has a license to take a small boat daily to a place called Machias Seal Island, which is a place where puffins hang out (and where humans do not). Info at http://www.machiassealisland.com/.

plr

Ya got me all excited, and then I read on their website that they only operate June through mid August. Sigh~~Love them lil' creatures!

DonTopaz

Sorry about that, plr! I've taken the trip, and it is absolutely amazing.