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30 Days in the Great Southwest

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30 Days in the Great Southwest

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Old May 15th, 2019, 07:42 AM
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30 Days in the Great Southwest

Mi esposa and I are on trip through Arizona, Colorado and New Mexico for 30 days. 35 years ago we spent 2 years driving around the US but never spent much time here other than in Phoenix, so here we go.

First week in Sedona - Had an almost 9 hour drive from LA to Sedona, left on Mother’s Day so the roads were pretty quiet. Took the back route, I10 to Quartzsite turning on 60 to 71 at Aguila, picked up 89 at Congress. This stretch off road is in good shape, 2 lane with very few services. It seemed like if you took all the people in these towns, you might be able to assemble a football team! No offense if you live there.

Drive from Congress to Sedona is very scenic as you go through 2 or 3 National Forests. Arrived later than we thought we would into Sedona so quiet night. At first I was less enthralled with Sedona than I thought I would be, yes there amazing rocks but they are all behind endless strip malls. May feel different tomorrow.
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Old May 15th, 2019, 07:19 PM
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So, we’ve done 3 days in Sedona now and I definitely feel the vibe. The key is to get off the strip and in to the Canyons. Get past the endless psychics, gem shops and healers, and that’s where the magic is. We’ve visited places around the area, Chapel of the Holy Cross, Montezuma Castle and Well. The Well is actually pretty interesting and worth a visit. Have taken 3 hikes, Boynton Pass, Fay Canyon and Airport Mesa. Two Vortexes but didn’t feel anything other than very light headed from hiking! Sedona is great, however it feels a little “senior citizen”. Music starts at 5 or 6 PM until 8PM. Lot’s of restaurants, great walks, it’s fun. Tomorrow Jerome.
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Old May 16th, 2019, 04:56 AM
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Nice start to your TR. I agree that the downtown part of Sedona detracts from the beauty of the area. Keep it up and have a fantastic trip.
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Old May 16th, 2019, 09:19 PM
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Up at 7:30AM To bike to Devil’s Bridge. Beautiful morning at the trailhead before 8. My advice go past the dirt road, 152, go to the first T on Dry Canyon and go right on Long Canyon Rd and stop at the Mescal Tr parking lot, then follow the trail to Devil’s Bridge. It took me an hour to get to the bridge, but I ‘m not the fastest hiker. Once there it was great, people walk out on the bridge, other people take photos. People giving strangers their phone with no fear. It’s a nice scene.

This afternoon, we went to Tzuigoot and the Jerome State Historic Park. Both are interesting. Dinner tonite at Sound Bite Grill. Read many reviews of this place but our experience was very good. Great Music, good food.

Tomorrow on to Flagstaff. Summing up Sedona, going from what’s the fuss, to this place is great didn’t take long. One funny thing, apparently, a traveling “roundabout” salesman showed up one day and sold the area on Round about s. They are everywhere. I guess they slow people down but people already drive like snails. All that peace and quiet up here!
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Old May 19th, 2019, 04:48 PM
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On to Flagstaff on 89A, a very scenic route. We stopped at Slide Rock Park but it’s a $20 entry fee and we didn’t think we would stay that long. Next Time! So, we got into Flagstaff early and stopped at the Riordan Mansion. This is a very worthwhile stop. It is a very interesting story about the Riordan, early businessmen in the city and the mansion is in great shape. Went to the Orpheum Theater for a concert. This is a great venue for a show.

2nd day we visited Walnut Canyon National Monument. This is the 4th National something we have visited . It’s great to be old with a lifetime senior pass! At night we went to Buffalo Park for a walk with the Dark Skies Coalition. Flagstaff is the leader in the Dark Skies movement.

Trying to get as much in as we can, rain is on the way!


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Old May 23rd, 2019, 07:06 AM
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We’ve spent a week in Flagstaff and it’s been very enjoyable. I don’t think you could spend a whole week here but it’s a great jump off spot for a number of really cool things. First of all it snowed, once about midway through the week and today we got about three inches. It’s the end of May folks, what is going on? Apparently not unusual in Flagstaff for snows in May.

Visited the Grand Canyon, entering from the east side. Not a lot of people or sunshine for that matter, but it get’s more crowded as you head West. My advice, consider driving past the Visitor Center and park at the Yavaipa Point and Geology Museum parking, then take the shuttles around the park. We found plenty of parking there. I don’t need to go on about the Grand Canyon, it’s everything you heard.

Yesterday I drove through the Wupatki and Sunset Crater NM. IMHO, this is vastly over looked. My guide book gives it less than a full paragraph and it is incredible. You can get so close to the ruins and when I went it was empty. I had the Wukoki Pueblo completely to myself. Also Sunst Crater has lots of great hikes.
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Old May 26th, 2019, 06:48 PM
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Last day in Flagstaff spent at the Lowell Observatory. Spent the whole day there, very interesting, had two or three great talks and star gazing at night.

Now we are headed to Monument Valley via Page, Az. Straight up 89, nothing special there but we have tickets to Antelope Canyon. We had to split our tickets with my wife going at 2:00PM and myself at 2:30PM, but when we got there they got us in at 1:30 together. First of all, it is phenomenal. If you have seen pic s you know what it looks like, what you don’t know and generally don’t see is that you are surrounded by a ton of people. They leave every 30 minutes so you are going to be mixed in with at least three tour groups. Toward the end it settles down. Still fantastic.

After Page we took some back roads to Monument Valley stopping at Navajo National Museum. And the Betakin Ruins. Well worth it it to look across the canyon at this Cliff House. Got to MV about 7:30, in time to see the sun go down. Stayed at Gouldings. In the morning we did the Museum and hit the road for our next stop, Mesa Verde NP.
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Old May 27th, 2019, 02:29 PM
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I love Mesa Verde and if the area called Wetherell Mesa is open when you get there it is worth a look if you have the time.
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Old May 28th, 2019, 05:36 AM
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Hi emalloy - Thanks for following along! On the way to MV we stopped at Hovenweep NM. Really nice ruins out in the middle of nowhere. Very nicely laid out and a pretty easy hike around the cliff top. We had a beautiful sunny day so that helped. On to Mesa Verde. We stayed at Far View Lodge in the Park. OK rooms, you have to remember you are in a National Park, not the Ritz. We got tickets for the Cliff Palace. Spruce Tree house is closed. Emalloy, we didn’t do Wetherill Mesa this time, reason to come back! We had a good amount of sunshine left in our day, so we did the Chaplin Mesa Museum and the loop with Square Tower House and Sun Temple. Pulled in back of Far View Terrace for a great sunset. So I had sunrise in Monument Valley and sunset in Mesa Verde! Pretty awesome day.

Next day we packed up and went to the breakfast buffet. Quick word about the Park food service, it really sucks. Buffet was filled with empty trays for eggs, sausages, pastries. It was mostly empty and the staff just kept walking by the empty bins. I don’t know what’s going to happen in the summer! We saw two families walk in and walk out because there was no food. Last night we waited a half hour for two salads and soup in the Lounge and when we got it the soup was cold. Then, after we had finished and paid the bill, a young woman walked up with our order a second time! We said we just finished, should have taken the second order to go.LOL.

After checking out we took the Cliff Palace tour. So impressive. We had Ranger Mike Brown and he was superior, great info delivered with humor, a true pro. My poor wife, who is a trooper, but has put up with my “ruins” craze this whole trip really enjoyed the tour. This was definitely the highlight of the Ancestral Pueblos trail for us.

Now on to Durango for five days of city life!
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Old May 28th, 2019, 06:44 AM
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What a wonderful trip report.
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Old May 30th, 2019, 06:09 AM
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Thanks schmerl! We are having so much fun. This has been a timeshare trip, we’ve been staying at timeshares so we’ve really had all the comforts. Full kitchen, separate bedroom etc. Except at both MVs, Monument and Mesa!

We are finishing up 5 days in Durango, Co. This is such a great place. The old town, which seems to be a lot of Durango is in great shape, interesting places, live music almost every night, interesting shops and just the right blend of cowboy hats and artists. Staying at the Wyndham Resort right in town, so we’ve walked most places.

First night in town stumbled onto the Fish Hatchery, which is next to a paved walk along the river and saw 5 mid size fawns nibbling. I grew up in Michigan, I’ve seen tons of deer, but now that I am an LA city slicker it was a kick to see them so close. Unfortunately I know some of these guys are going to end up on a road somewhere.

The people are very friendly, many are transplants, which of course means people who grew up here are being priced out, unless they own a business or ranch. This is happening everywhere in the US, probably the World for that matter. Every time you find a slice of heaven, it’s filled with too many angels and a fair amount of devils!

Tomorrow we leave for two days in Ouray. We are finally getting some sunshine. Who thought that on a Mid May trip to the “Southwest” we would have so much rain and snow.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2019, 05:44 AM
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Left Durango, pretty early start, 10AM for us. ( No one said we are pioneers!) Up Hwy 550 and it is the most beautiful ride. Starts pretty level then you go over the first pass, went by one rest stop, all you could see was a flat green “thing”, that turned out to be the roof of the bathroom. That’s how high the snow pack is. Stopped at Molas Pass, great views! Then down the pass to Silverton. Had a piece of pie at the Brown Bear Cafe. Seemed like the most appropriate thing to do. Yummy. Then over Red Mountain Pass into Ouray. Another amazing view.

Ouray is the Switzerland of America and it shows, as I write this I am looking at the tallest, craggiest mountains covered in snow and I swear I can hear Julie Andrews singing. Staying at the Ouray Inn. Highly recommend it. Kim takes wonderful care of her guests. First evening we strolled the old town trying to stear clear of gunfights and ne’er do wells. It’s actually pretty easy because Everything shuts down at 9 PM!

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Old Jun 2nd, 2019, 06:06 AM
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We were enjoying Ouray so much we went sure if we were going to head to Telluride, but the folks here persuaded us to go over there. Hint from the locals, park in Mountain Village, take the FREE gondola ride into Telluride to miss the traffic, plus the gondola ride is smooth and a good “flyover” of the area. Beautiful day, first day in shorts since Sedona two weeks ago! Found the free parking w/ no problem, on the gondola and descended into the valley. We aren’t skiers so this was quite treat. Thought Telluride might be stuffy but didn’t feel that at all. Spent most of the morning there then on to Orvis Hot Springs to soak away the rest of the afternoon. Warning, It’s clothing optional but that wasn’t an issue for us. They have a very liberal in and out policy so we soaked for about 3 hours, went and had dinner and then back for the stars. Laying in hot water looking at the sky seeing all of the stars! Somebody pinch us! Drove very slowly back to Ouray, about 10 miles, because we saw 2 herds of Elk this afternoon, in a field next to the road.
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Old Jun 6th, 2019, 03:41 PM
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Leaving beautiful Ouray, first stopping at Box Canyon just south of town. Heading to Pagosa Springs. Nice smooth trip over the passes, hardly any traffic, definitely less snow then two days ago.
Stopped at the Wyndham in Durango to say goodbye again...and use their bathroom!

Drove into the outskirts of Pagosa Springs, staying one night at Elktrace B&B. Turn off Piedra road and to a few dirt roads and dead end at a giant house on 100 acres, with horses. It is so amazingly beautiful and spacious to two city slickers. The B&B is run by Tom and Evelyn. Tom says we are staying at the annex, follow me. What? We aren’t staying in this fabulous house? No, he takes us to our OWN house which is a newly purchased 3 bedroom house that we have to ourselves. We are always in the right place at the right time! So, we are surrounded by horses, mountains and the 3 English Shepard’s who belong to the caretaker who lives next store. We are in Heaven.
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Old Jun 7th, 2019, 05:32 AM
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Wow! Your trip sound wonderful!
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Old Jun 7th, 2019, 05:39 AM
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Just stumbled on this and enjoying it. I agree about the town of Sedona..ugh. Have never gone farther east than Hovenweep so taking notes. Did you go inside the Monument Valley park?
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Old Jun 7th, 2019, 10:16 AM
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I'm still enjoying your report and reliving some of our trips "out west".
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Old Jun 7th, 2019, 09:48 PM
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Thanks all! Mlgb, we didn’t go into the Monument Valley Park. I’m sure it’s worth it but we decided to move on. As you pass MV heading north and look back you can see some great views. We did do the museum at Goulding’s and that is really interesting.

Jumping back to Pagosa Springs, we stayed at Wyndham Resorts on the outskirts of Pagosa, about three miles away, for two days. The resort is quite a hodge podge of buildings. We stayed in one that was on a lake and it was very nice. Our last day we went to The Springs for the day. These are hot springs in downtown Pagosa Springs. Kind of pricey but you can stay all day. About 2PM it started pouring rain ☔️. So we are sitting in the hot tubs in the rain, that was a kick. Then around 3PM, they kicked us out of the hot tubs because of thunder. Back in at 3:30 until we left at 4:30PM. Great experience. Now we are off to Taos, NM tomorrow.
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Old Jun 7th, 2019, 10:05 PM
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Had to check out at 10AM. Taking 84 south to 64 into Taos. For those who have done this trip you know you drive through the Carson National Forest, Rained the whole way, plus there was some snow. About 15 minutes outside of Taos we go past these crazy houses! Do you know about the Earthships?? It is a fascinating community north of Taos. They build house with recycled tires and bottles, cans etc. You have to check it out if you are coming in this way to Taos.

Only two days in Taos and we really loved it. Someone in Durango had told us that there was a heroin problem in Taos. Isn’t it weird how you will allow yourself to accept these preconceived ideas that people put in your head. We soon found out that not everyone is on heroin, but did have a lot of fun trying to figure out who might have been on heroin. Took it to the absurd of course, pointing to people, saying “on heroin”. Hit a couple of museums, ate at Orlando’s, stayed at the Worldmark which is by far the nicest Worldmark we’ve ever stayed at. People were very nice and we want to come back.
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Old Jun 8th, 2019, 11:25 AM
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I'm familiar with the Earthships - planned to visit them last time we were in the area, but never made it. Did you stop and take the tour and visit the visitor's center? If so, did you enjoy it?

Glad you made it to Orlando's - one of our Taos favs.
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