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Loreto, Baja California Sur (Nopolo) Trip Report #1

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Loreto, Baja California Sur (Nopolo) Trip Report #1

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Old Jan 10th, 2012, 06:25 AM
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Loreto, Baja California Sur (Nopolo) Trip Report #1

Seven miles south of Loreto lies the region of Nopolo. In recent years, a new development called the villages of Loreto Bay has been created. This beautiful piece of heaven is aimed at healthy living in a resort type of lifestyle. Having said that, it is nothing like any place I have stayed before.

Upon arriving at the Loreto airport, you immediately think pristine, clean and quiet. With only one flight per day, it isn't what you would call a tourist destination. Most people visiting here are spending their winters escaping winter to our north. Alaska Airlines flies from Los Angeles on a turbo-prop plane. The flight was enjoyable, but not always on time. The flight attendants were attentive and the airline served complimentary wine/beer along with snacks for purchase. Processing through customs at the Loreto airport was not fast, but who cares, I am on vacation. Only one clerk was on duty so with 70 or so people to process, she had a full hour ahead of her. If you don't want to wait too long in line, I suggest you book your seat in the front of the plane!

Our friend picked us up at the airport (although it is easy to rent a car here as well) and we made the short journey to Nopolo. It was getting on dusk, and although the view was stunning, it would be the next morning I realized that I really was in heaven! Driving on roads here isn't for the faint of heart. While they are paved, well maintained roads, there is no shoulder for error. There are lots of large transport trucks that drivers try to pass along this straight stretch before heading into the mountains - so going the speed limit doesn't seem to be the norm. Cattle and other animals litter the road and if you see a vehicle with its four way flashers on, slow down as it is a warning there is life wandering around where it shouldn't. Also here when you are driving and put on your left blinker, it indicates to the driver behind you, the road is clear to pass. The government has placed pull offs at the main entrances to places so you can simply pull over to cross rather than confusing the driver behind you. With no lights and if there is no moon, driving at night isn't something I looked forward to.

Our trip was from Dec 29th to Jan 12th - so an opportunity to see the Town of Loreto and Nopolo decorated for Christmas and to ring in a new year! When you think of Mexico, you imagine hot days lounging by the pool. This wasn't the case! The daily temps hover around 22c and in some exceptions we saw upwards to 27c. And even though that is hot for a Bluenoser, the sun simply warmed the skin without any humidity to make it unpleasant. Mornings and evenings usually warranted a light jacket, although I saw a woman on the beach one morning wearing a parka! I only wore pants on two occasions and shorts and short sleeves were my choice. We went swimming once, the water cool but again, warmer than the water in the height of late August in Nova Scotia!

The Village of Loreto Bay or Nopolo are like nothing I have seen before. They are built without any space between them. Stone walkways with beautiful lush vegetation, join them together to make a feeling of being in a small european village where everyone has lived for centuries. Each have several levels of living space with lots of outdoor living space to enjoy the beautiful weather. Our accommodations were on the beach with a spectacular view of the water and the Islands of Carmen and Coronado. The sunrises and sunsets are amazing and the way the shadows play on the huge rock formations in the sea of Cortez, make for great pictures. We also experienced a full moon while here, and it literally lights up the entire beach. Nopolo doesn't have "street lights" per se around the homes and none on the water side to perserve the night skies!

Our first morning we wondered down the streets of the Village. It was eerily quiet, with a few workmen commencing their daily construction routines. The first thing I noticed was everyone said hello or good morning! The sidewalks where the construction is taking place are jagged, and it seemed an afterthought probably would have been, should have waited until all the buildings were constructed. There are a huge number of unfinished units and a couple of very large condo units sitting idle. This is due to the mismanagement of former developers of the area. The Mexican government has now taken over, and it seems to be moving along. However, having said that, the recession has certainly taken the toll on the area who used to rely mostly on Americans. Canadians are also very evident here as owners of homes, mostly from the western provinces.
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Old Jan 10th, 2012, 08:52 AM
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Looking forward to more! We are heading to the same place next month . Your report will come in handy with our planning since there is not much on the travel sites. Tried reserving a car, but is very expensive so I will have to keep looking for a better deal.

MY
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Old Jan 12th, 2012, 05:27 AM
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Michelle,
spending my last day here! Watched a glorious sunrise ... sigh! I think cars run about $50/day. You really don't need one for the entire time. Taxis can get expensive running in and out of town and believe me, you don't want to bike on the highway!

If you want any specific info, please email me at [email protected]
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Old Jan 12th, 2012, 07:16 AM
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Please finish up your trip report when you get a chance. Which places did you like to eat. Best activities?

We plan to do some whale watching also.

Interested to find out how your connection going home works out. We have only 1 1/2 hours between flights so we may end up spending the night in LA.

Thanks for the info and email link.

MY
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Old Mar 5th, 2012, 03:49 AM
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Hi Tanya,

I'm glad you had a pleasant visit to Loreto, staying in Loreto Bay. One small but important correction... the work that is ongoing has nothing to do with the Mexican Govt.

The developer (Loreto Bay Company) failed and shut their doors in June '09. For many developments, a failed developer means ruined investments and incomplete communities. Not so in Loreto Bay! The homeowners themselves through the Home Owners Association have taken over completely. All of the work you see getting done is either by the HOA, or by a new developer (Homex) doing a neighboring development.

Just last week, for the first time, the homeowners of the entire community passed a cost sharing self-assessment to complete ALL paving, landscaping, lighting, irrigation, swim pools, plazas, etc. Over the next 2-3 years, Loreto Bay will only grow more beautiful, and the retail scene will grow to allow a self contained community.

The entire region is seeing great improvement. In the town of Loreto, the new Mayor is perhaps the first non-corrupt professional to manage the town and the improvements over the last year have been stunning.

Loreto is Paradise for people who love the outdoors... diving, kayaking, fishing, spearfishing, kite sailing, hiking in the mountains, Geology/Anthropology studies, on & on. We hope to see many more Fodor's traveler's visiting our peaceful, quiet little slice of heaven.
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Old Mar 9th, 2012, 03:32 PM
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Wow. This sure reads like some realtor's promotional letter.

Must be really difficult to get clients down there to the bankupt Villages. I wonder if they even finished those half-built cubicles of rebar and concrete.

Loreto is hellishly hot in the summer.

All of the above reads very much like spam and probably is. Buyer beware.
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Old Sep 24th, 2012, 05:35 AM
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Placename, I know this thread is out of date, but know the info that builder99 is stating is true. I recently spent time with friends who live in Nopolo, and things are progressing along. Some establishments have closed, other new ones opening. As long as the residents support the local business, it will remain. I have booked our tickets for Loreto in late Feb into mid March and look forward to returning to this piece of heaven!

The half-built cubicles and rebar - unfortunately its the non-Mexican owners who have left them in this state.
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