dfr4848

Situation: Daughter is studying in Athens this fall semester (jr in college getting double major in Biology and Greek). Her school and apt are in the Pangrati area. Her ONLY real break is during US Thanksgiving (Nov 26 - Dec 1). We want to take her somewhere in Greece during the break she hasn't been during her stay - and we've never been to Greece so we're very open.

We're planning on 2 weeks total, so the parental units will visit some places she has already seen before and after her break.

So far she's spent weekends in Nafplion, Kea, Syros, Mt Olympia.
NOTE: her weekends for the semester are pretty much full and the ONLY place she has her heart set on seeing which isn't yet on the schedule is Santorini.

Us: Couple in 50s. Been to Europe many times, but not Greece. Both love to travel, enjoy large cities to small villages, food, architecture, history, galleries, museums, walks and hikes, outdoors, nature, photography, local customs and flavor, (did I say food?), open to new and unusual things, long lunch at outdoor cafes is a favorite (I know, not in Nov), and yes - did I mention food! Prefer staying in one place with day trips rather than move around every other day, but can be flexible depending on situation.

He: borderline OCD (OK, maybe not just borderline). Plans every hour of the day (but following the schedule usually doesn't happen) and is packed 2 weeks before a trip.

She: more flexible, spontaneous, reads every plaque/label at galleries and museums, very likely to say heck with the schedule if something interesting comes along.

Prep: Have read most every thread in this forum on Greece (lots of really good ideas, advice, etc), the usual guidebook suspects (Fodors, Frommers, Loney Planet, Nat Geo), and Matt Barrett's website.

With all this in mind, here's a tenetative schedule:

Sun, Nov 23 - overnight flight from States to ATH (changing at either FRA or LHR)

Mon, Nov 24 - coordinate late pm arrival in ATH with daughter (who's returning from weekend with friend in Warsaw, Poland)

Tues, Nov 25 - Athens (downtime, get oriented, visit daughter and her neighborhood)

Wed, Nov 26 - fly to Santorini (Aegean Air has sale for E64 + taxes and it sounds like winter ferry schedules/weather are too unreliable)

Thurs, Nov 27 - Mon, Dec 1 - Santorini (and not likely but maybe have time to visit another island as well?)

Mon, Dec 1 - Thurs, Dec 4 - Athens (visit the usual historical sites, museums and any other interesting places daughter has discovered)

Fri, Dec 5 - Mon, Dec 8 - Go to Delphi, Nafplion, and explore surrounding areas. Have also tenetatively planned day-long sailing trip out of Nafplion.

Mon, Dec 8 - return to Athens in pm; dinner with daughter

Tues, Dec 9 - 6 am flight home to the States through FRA or LHR.

Most of the threads say Nov just isn't the time for Santorini. I understand, but 1) daughter REALLY wants to visit and we'd like to as well, 2) Weather Underground says highs ave 64F, lows 54F (which doesn't sound bad at all) with 2 in. rain (hey, we often get 2 in. in one hour so 2 in. in a month sounds very doable to us 3) Matt Barrett also indicates it's not an ideal time, but doesn't make it sound like it's totally deserted and seems to enjoy the local flavor without the crowds in the offseason, 4) we have no idea when we're likely to return. [Still have some continents we haven't been to], and 5) we've been to London, Paris, Rome and Florence a few times including Mar., so cool/damp doesn't bother us and we've never been bored or run out of things to do.

So is Santanori really an absolute no no?

Other islands? Crete? Naxos?

We're still looking at apts (VRBO) and hotels in Athens [from E80-180/night] but if anyone has any particularly strong recs, would appreciate it.

Any particular favorite hotels/B&Bs in Delphi, Naphlion areas?

Any other general thoughts/suggestions also appreciated.

Sorry this is long, but wanted to give as much background as possible.

Thanks very much.

dfr4848

Well, dangit, I tried to edit post but something happened.

Assuming Santorini is doable, would also appreciate any thoughts on hotels on Santorini in offseason (E80-180/night). Assume we should concentrate in the Fira/Firostefani or Oio areas (?). Have seen threads on recs during spring and summer, but didn't know if there might be different suggestions for offseason, other than the obvious availability issue.

Also, during Delphi, Nafplino area, thought about renting car but buses seem reliable, and inexpensive. So is car not necessary?

carylspall

Hi !
I am also half of a 50s couple who like the same things as you!
We just returned from a 4 week road trip on mainland Greece and 2 weeks in Crete.
Who knows what the weather will be like in November - it might just be great! We had rain, thunder and sunshine September/ October .
We hired a car and drove wherever we fancied staying. We never found accomodation a problem except for the Athens airport vicinity.The freedom was so good.
In November you will be able to stay in decent hotels at decent prices. The least we paid for a double room was 25 euros, the average was 35 -40.
We love Greece. Northern Greece was best for us, but it will be colder at that time of year in that region than in the Pelopponesse.We particularly loved Monemvassia in the south east.
Crete was a tad disappointing for us. We were going to chill out there for 2 weeks and not hire a car.This was fine in Chania and Rethymnon, but found it so "resorty" when we moved to the Heraklion area that we had to hire a car and escape into the montain villages. A lot of the tavernas and hotels/appartments were closing for the season at the end of October.
I think Santorini will be great -hey! there won't be any cruise ship passengers at that time!
As we had been to Athens 3 times before, we avoided it this time.Thessaloniki was a far friendlier city IMO and easier on the wallet.
Have a great time -whatever you decide on!

dfr4848

carylspall - thanks for quick reply. Yea, I think we're just going to have to flexible and be prepared for less options - which often is good. Have read good things about Monemvassia so will have to check it out.

Maybe we will find some deals. We just got a quote of E140 for a 1 bedroom villa at Chelidonia Villas in Oia for 3 people which sounds like a good rate.

brotherleelove2004

Don't expect to find much going on on any island. Tourist businesses, including shops, most restaurants and hotels, are pretty much closed down by the end of October.

Weather will be cold, damp, cloudy and windy.

Here's a link to some year-long hotels on Santorni.

http://www.santonet.gr/hotels/allyear.htm

Aspa Villas isn't on this list, but the family that owns it lives on the island, so it's possible that if you contact them you might be able to rent from them at a very reasonable rate. There is a cave house mentioned on their website. They also own Villa Ilias in Firostefani.

http://www.aspavillas.com/

dfr4848

brotherleelove - thanks for the input. Can't seem to open the first link, though. Says it's not available.

IF island not on the list, would you suggest sticking with, say, central Greece or the Peloponnese?

brotherleelove2004

I'd choose the Peloponnese.

Keep trying that first link. It opened for me just now.

travelerjan

I agree with BLL on Peloponnese; that's a good list of year-round Santo hotels. One thing-- in Oia might be harder to find much choice in dining.

One other thought: Air France has good food but changing planes in Chas D G is PURE HELL. Do NOT do it unless you have 3 hours between planes. THat sounds stupid, but it's unbelievable. Also, if you check your baggage, v. likely it won't make the 2nd plane. I've changed both places and would much prefer Frankfurt for transfer.

YOu sound realistic about this jaunt, so I predict you'll have a fine time.
Athens will be lively, and Nafplio may be also, ,esp on weekends.

Maria_H

I'd agree with the Peloponnese, one of my favourite parts of Greece and plenty to explore. Monemvassia is fantastic, so is Mystras and there are many sites to explore within reach of Nafplion. Like carylspall, we had all sorts of weather late Sept/Oct, so November could bring almost anything, especially round the mountains, so it may pay to be flexible. For Delphi, we stayed in nearby Arachova (Generalis Guesthouse), if you click on my name, you'll find my report and link to some pictures, if interested.

carylspall - hope you are going to write a trip report!

flanneruk

What on earth are you going to do on Santorini, except go mad? Stripped of sun and seething tavernas, there's simply no there there.

If you want an island, at least Crete has a serious array of museums and major archaeological sites. Otherwise, the Peloponnese is great practically any time - and what's the relevance of worrying over whether northern Greece might be a degree or two colder than Athens? You're not planning on sunbathing (are you?): the great Macedonian sites are a great deal more visitable in comfortable weather, like November, than in the ghastly heat that makes the area intolerable in summer. And Thessalonica's museums (not to mention its restaurants) are outstanding any time.

dfr4848

Thanks everyone. Will follow up on suggestions.

brotherleelove - got the link to work. Thanks.

Travlerjan - appreciate the thoughts. Think we've pretty much eliminated CDG for the reasons you gave. The only same day return we could get on AF had a 45 min layover. We've only been through CDG once, but know that's NOT nearly enough time.

flanner - <What on earth are you going to do on Santorini, except go mad?>
I've already been accused of that - and worse. And just to clarify, we're not concerned about whether northern Greece is a few degrees colder than Athens. Thanks for your thoughts on the Peloponnese.

carylspall

Maria! I wasn't going to do a trip report as yours was so good! Have now spent all afternoon typing.
Glad you enjoyed your holiday.

dfr4848

Maria and carrylspall - thanks for the responses and the link to the trip report. Great details and I've already made some notes.