yestravel

We will be landing in Zurich from the US on 1 October and have about a week before we take the Bernina Exp (or regional train) to Tirano. We may stay 1 night in Zurich to check out their museum and then move on. We're hoping to get some hiking in during the time in Switzerland. Is there any area that would be best to visit during this time of the year? Thanks

PalenQ

Perhpas the Engadine area around St-Moritz - from where the Berinina Express starts (or in Pontresina, a smaller more bucolic town many prefer over glitzy St Moritz - that area is a hiker's paradise and may MAY have better weather - warmer than the Jungfrau Region I would normally recommend for any first-time visitor to Switzerland, especially those into hiking - but cie and mud are possible on higher trails there in October.

If just going to one area - then a Swiss Pass would not be of much use but you may look into the Half-Fare Pass you buy locally and then get 50% off everything that moves in Switzerland and there are many nice aerial gondolas in the Engadine (Maloja Pass area is nice) - and if into hiking do the Bernina Pass railway - taking local trains that need no reservation and which with a ticket you can just hop on - and make a day or two out of it as there are some scintillating hikes to take from stations

a much better experience than just taking IMO the fancy Glacier Express official train non-stop thru some of Europe's most awesome scenery.

Like getting off at Bernina Ospiz and hiking to the glacier and around the Alpine lake it feeds to another station like Alp Grum - two stations near the summit and most fantastic out of this world type scenery. Maybe another day alight at another Bernina station and do some different glacier hikes, etc.

For lots of info on Bernina Express and things along the route check out http://www.rhb.ch/Home.1643.0.html?&L=4 - the Rhaetian Bahn which runs those trains its official site and www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com and www.seat61.com.

I like the regular local trains which roll over the exact same scenery better than the always IME packed with tour groups official Bernina Express trains. Local trains you can hop on and off at will - Bernina Express you need a reservation for each segment - no spontaneous hopping on and off. And if doing the official BE be sure to book a seat very early as they do IME fill up with tour groups.

Ingo

No need for getting the Half Fare Card if going to the Engadine - most hotels there (and make sure yours participates in the program) give a complimentary pass for mountain railways and public transportation in the region if you stay two nights or more. There are three versions: Either mountain railways/cable cars only, or these plus public transportation in the Upper Engadine (as far as Zuoz, Alp Grüm, Julier pass, Maloja), or all that plus the Bregaglia valley (as far as Chiavenna in Italy). I prefer the latter, of course

The Engadine is an excellent choice for early October. Been there a couple of times around that time, even later in October. Gorgeous foliage! Larches turn golden, azur blue sky, deep blue lakes, white snow capped peaks.

Most cable cars are still in operation, many mountain huts/restaurants are still open. It's hunting season and the respective food is available ... yummy.

PalenQ

Yes with Ingo's useful info no pass for you! Just buy a regular ticket Zurich to Pontresina and then on the BE or regular trains on that line to Tirano, Italy. Check www.sbb.ch - Swiss Railways web site for any specials Zurich to Pontresina/St Moritz.

wrenwood

If you are in the Engadine be sure to go to Soglio!!!!

Ingo and PalenQ are two of the Fodorites responsible for my love of Soglio, it is a magical place!

yestravel

Thanks so much this is so helpful.
Would you say Sils Maria is a good place to stay for 3-4 days?

Ingo

Yes, absolutely!

yestravel

Given that we will only have 4 nights is it better to stay in Pontresia than Sils Maria? Do you think the logistics are easier for one than the other? It looks like you need a train and bus to get to Sils Maria. Also for the onward journey to Tirano is it logistical easier for one town over the other? What about hikes from either town? We are probably easy to moderate hikers given we will have just arrived in Switzerland a day or so earlier. Thank you of your help.

Ingo

Pontresina is closer to the Bernina route, but note that the train station is below the village, so you either must hop on a bus for a short ride or your hotel provides shuttle service. Pontresina is also a bit larger than Sils, with more shops and choices for restaurants/cafes/groceries.

I personally prefer Sils because of its fantastic location right by the lakes. Transportation should not be a problem, the buses run frequently and are timed to the train schedule.

With 4 nights you should probably do the Muottas Muragl - Alp Languard hike (right above Pontresina), the Furtschellas - Fex valley hike (right at Sils-Maria), and an excursion to the Bregaglia valley (Soglio, which is closer to Sils).

If you travel onward to Tirano you'll see the Bernina pass scenery anyway, so no point in going there during your stay.

PalenQ

If you travel onward to Tirano you'll see the Bernina pass scenery anyway, so no point in going there during your stay.>

But just going past some of Europe's finest scenery is not nearly as nice as spending a whole day up top - take a train to Bernina Ospiz and walk to the glacier that feeds the Alpine lake there - walk around the lake - a flat few miles to Alp Grum station and then go back to Pontresina or other base.

Just rolling by this fantastic scenery is not nearly as nice as getting out and walking to the glacier, etc. -something hard to do with luggage.

Ingo

I basically agree with you, Pal, but with only 3 full days ... the scenery on the other excursions that I suggested is at least as beautiful/spectacular as the one along the Bernina route.

yestravel

Thank you both. I appreciate your advice. I think will look first at Sils Maria and go from there.
Now if I can just find a place to stay that is relatively reasonable. Prices in Switzerland are jaw-droping. Any suggestions of where I might stay in the $200 range if that's possible.

Ingo

With that budget you might look into Pontresina, chances there are better. For example, Pension Hauser would fit the bill:

http://www.hotelpension-hauser.ch/

And Hotel Engadinerhof, have stayed there myself and recommend it highly:

http://www.engadinerhof.ch/Sommerpreise_2011_E.html

In Sils try Chesa Sarita, the dependancy of upscale Hotel La Margna:

http://chesa-sarita.ch/en/home/

PalenQ

I basically agree with you, Pal, but with only 3 full days ... the scenery on the other excursions that I suggested is at least as beautiful/spectacular as the one along the Bernina route.>

Well I can' argue because I am not familiar with those other excursions but know you know what you are talking about - but here are some images from the Bernina Ospiz train station - you could get off there and walk around the Alpine lake to another station or back there - too bad to just roll by those scintillating landscapes.


https://www.google.com/search?q=bern...w=1280&bih=832

yestravel

Thank you -- I had tried the Pension Hauser and the Hotel Engadinehof and both were booked for our dates. I sent an email directly to the hotels just in case, but have not heard back. I actually have not heard back from several places I emailed which includes Chesa Sarita.

I went ahead and booked HOTEL GARNI CHESA MULIN, PONTRESINA. It gets good reviews and is ~$220 (USD). Anyone know of it?

Ingo

Another well traveled and trustworthy Fodorite stayed there some years ago and liked it. Nothing extraordinary, but spotless clean, all the amenities you'll need, good breakfast buffet.

Mountain railways/cable cars and public transportation included (but not from Maloja to the Bregaglia valley/Soglio!), public spa/pool Bellavista in Pontresina also included (which is a nice treat).

Good choice, I'd say.

yestravel

Good to hear. It sounds like it will work just fine & I think I will stick with it unless I find something in the price range in Sils Maria. So far everything is either booked or more money than Chesa Sarita. Again, thanks for all your help.

yestravel

Wanted to give feedback on our stay at Chesa Mulin. It was very nice. Staff was outstanding, gave great info and always very helpful. The room was nothing special, but it was spotless and comfortable. Breakfast buffet was plentiful. All in all it turned out to be a very good choice.

We loved the area - it was just gorgeous and we had perfect weather three of the four days. Thanks everyone for your help.

PalenQ

Just love those breakfast buffets in any Swiss hotel - enough to feed you for the whole day - worth its weight in gold in light of the steep prices for restaurants and food in this very very expensive place.