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Trip to Amalfi Coast, Hotel Poseidon

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A friend and I recently returned from vacation in Positano, Capri and Naples with a day trip to Ravello and Amalfi. We spent 3 nights at the Hotel Poseidon on Positano, one night at the Relais Maresca on Capri and one night at the Royal Continental in Naples.

the trip started off with our flight delayed incrementally from Harrisburg to Dulles. I checked our flight from Dulles-Munich and found it was running 3 hours late - was on its way over from Munich and only part way across the ocean. This meant we would miss our connection from Munich to Naples. We had been protected on a later 3 PM flight but we would get to Positano 6 hours after we were scheduled. So I went up to talk to the gate agent about alternate routes to get there sooner.. At first she was like no, no, no seats on this one, but eventually found us premium seats on a flight from Dulles to Brussels and a 1:20 flight to Naples. we wre due in Naples originally at 11:05. but this route was better than the later flight from Munich (plus we got better seats, more room and the best meal on the flight from Brussels to Naples while regular economy did not get food. We emailed the Positano Shuttle about our flight changes and they were there waiting for us in Naples with our name on a sign.

We arrived at our hotel in Positano about 5:30 PM. there have been quite a few positive reviews of the Poseidon and I want to add to them, We had a standard room but it had charm, a terrace with table and chairs, and a large green tiled bathroom. But the public rooms are beautiful, with a fire going in one lounge most nights, and a large terrace overlooking the town. We made friends with Sonia, the general manger, and with Lucca, who brought the drinks, and had long conversations in the lounge at night with Sonia. Everyone was very friendly. Sonia changed our dinner reservation at Le Sirenuse to a later time due to our planned outing to Ravello and Amalfi and scored us a window table with the Positano hillside twinkling behind us. We ended our stay with hugs for both Lucca and Sonia.

Positano really is beautiful and magical and was exactly as expected. Lovely small boutiques, lots of gelato and sfogliatelle for breakfast - it was hog heaven. It was my dream to dine at Le Sirenuse but I'd read it cost over 200 euro. However, my friend checked it out and thought we could have lunch there. When we looked at the menu, entres for dinner were not that much more expensive so we decided to go. I'm not a foodie but I just wanted the experience at the dining room lit with 400 candles in wrought iron chandeliers.

The dinner really was an experience. Vines covered the ceiling and we had our own little alcove with one other table - a young couple from Holland. I had a glass of Prosecco (13e), duck (40e) and lemon souffle (20e). In between we were brought an array of breads to choose from, an ice bowl with veggies and dip, breadsticks and olive oil, a tiny dish with prawn as an appetizer, a mini dessert before our dessert, and a rray of mini desserts and small glass of lemoncello after our dessert. There were strolling musicians, and by the end of the evenign the restaurant had emptied out a bit and the musicians came over and asked if I had a request. Volare, I said. They started singing Volare; i started singing Volare; my friend started singing Volare, and the maitre d started singing Volare. In Le Sirenuse. It was magical. Well worth the cost.

Other highlights - the quiet path along the sea in Capri to a view of the Faraglioni rocks and hiking down the cliff via brick walkways and steps to the beach for a great view (and hiking back up). And my friend wanted to go to the Blue Grotto. It was not open the first day we arrived but we took two busses the next day to get right there and got right on a rowboat. some drama as the waves increased and we had a hard time getting back out!! But we made it.

We took hydrofoils from Positano to Capri and from Capri to Naples. the one to Capri was rather small and it was a beautiful day so we sat up on top. the one to Naples was larger with a comfortable large cabin. Once in port in Naples we walked to our hotel on the seafront in Santa Lucia - a very hot 15-20 minute walk with suitcases. I was soaking wet when we arrived and demanded a shower and lunch in the hotel; my friend set out on her own. I had a very nice lunch of parma ham and mozzerella on toated bread , fries and cappucino in the hotel bar and made friends with the barman. Later tried to swim in the rroftop pool as it was hot enough,, but the pool was not yet open. My friend had ventured into the Santa Lucia neighborhood so we went back out and explored the narrow streets with shops, laundry, gelato, flowers, and artisan workshops. We walked as far as Galleria Umberto as my goal was Sfogliatelle Mary - the Holy Grail of sfogliatelle, my favorite Italian pastry.

We had a 12 noon flight the next day so got up early for the included bountiful breakfast; my friend took a walk then we took a taxi thru the crazy Naples traffic to the airport. Nnice modern easy airport with comfortable sofas for lounging.

I liked Naples. Although we did not get to Centro Storico and I would have liked one more day to see some sights, the seafront area was beautiful and the Santa Lucia neighborhood appeared safe and attractive.

this was a dream trip for me, and exceeded my expectations.

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