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Old Jan 29th, 2010, 07:23 PM
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Touring Piedmont

Hi everyone
A couple of years ago I rented a car and drove through some fabulous countryside and stayed in several towns in Umbria & Le Marche................thanks to several recommendations from this forum I had a wonderful time and have decided to do it again in the Piedmont region.
I am renting a car for approx a week and hopefully you will be able to recommend some scenic drives, towns to visit and accomodation & restaurants along the way.
I will be stayin in Stresa once I drop the car off so I can use the ferries to tour the lake and would appreciate any recommendations for mid range accomodation here also.
Thanks so much for any information you may be able to supply
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Old Jan 29th, 2010, 09:19 PM
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In Piedmont stay at Baur B&B (http://www.baurbb.com/) in Acqui Terme. It is absolutely wonderful - best B&B we have stayed anywhere!! Diana & Michael are the consummate hosts, you will have the most incredible food and truly enjoy your visit to the Piedmont region. Our favorite restaurant in the region was Da Fausto just beyond Acqui Terme in the hills of a small town called Cavatore.
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Old Jan 30th, 2010, 06:25 AM
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Last June for our four days in Piedmont as part of a 5-week visit to Italy we enjoyed basing near Asti, at Villa Sampaguita (http://www.villasampaguita.com). If you'd like to read my trip report, click on my name above. From our Asti base we visited Aqui Terme, the Alps (long day), Torino, Barolo, and the surrounding wine region. The villa's owners, Tim and Rina, are very knowledgeable about the area, and Tim provides extensive guidance every morning at breakfast, tailored to meet his guests' specific interests. He's a wonderful resource, and Villa Sampaguita is a wonderful place to stay. Nice that you will have a week!
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 02:56 AM
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Rosalini,

This is a 10-year old article so any restaurant and hotel recommendations need to be double checked with more recent sources (Chowhound, Tripadvisor) but the scenery hasn't changed, and so you might find it interesting:

http://www.theatlantic.com/issues/2000/08/kummer.htm

If you find yourself in the area of Moncalvo, which many consider one of the regions best preserved historic towns, I can recommend Locanda del Melograno for a very elegant sleep, although it doesn't serve dinner.

http://www.vinogusto.com/en/place-me...-del-melograno

It's not clear to me from your post if you are contemplating a rolling road trip, but if you are, be aware that many b&bs in Piemonte require minimum stays (including at least one recommended above, I believe).

There are two schools of thought about traveling in Italy when it comes to accommodations: One is that it is good to stay with non-Italians who speak your language, the other is that it is best to stay with Italians. I have a very strong bias in favor of staying with Italians, and when in wine country, I try my best to be staying overnight in places with good kitchens that serve dinner. I prefer not to drive home on winding mountain roads after a dinner with wine -- and in Piemonte, I would want to drink the wine.

And I'm going to mention one more thing that I hope will not utterly blow up this thread: The two b&bs recommended to you are owned by people who post continuously and helpfully on the Slow Travel website, and often humorously about their trials and travails in being in the travel service, and other posters people become almost "friends" with them over the internet, long before they ever actually go there to meet them face to face. And they make no bones about it on Slow Travel that everybody in the "community" is very supportive of their business. Under ordinary circumstances I'd just tell you to double check the praise on Tripadvisor, but the Slow Travelers all make sure to post on Trip Advisor the same glowing support.

I have every reason to believe these proprietors deserve an energetic fan club. But it would help travelers who come to Fodor's blind to know if you consider the proprietors part of a community you feel it is important to support, or a friend or anything different from the basically business relationship the rest of us have with a hotel.

Now try not to ruin this thread attacking me for requesting full disclosure, please.
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 06:46 AM
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stepsbeyond,

Whaaaaat?

I probably shouldn't respond to your assault, but here goes. I chose my accommodation in Piedmont last year based on the recommendation of someone on this forum whose advice I respect and because it received many very positive recs on TripAdvisor. It lived up to my expectations, and I'm happy to recommend it to others, like Rosalini, when they ask for a recommendation. Why the assault?

As long as you are "requesting full disclosure," I have a question for you: are you the poster formerly known as zeppole? Just a hunch. If so, why did you change your screen name?
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 06:55 AM
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For full disclosure I am not a member of Slow Travel and stayed at Baur B&B for 5 nights in 2007. You can check out my trip report:http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...y-and-rome.cfm.
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 07:16 AM
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I think Piemonte is the new Tuscany. You will love it. We were there earlier this year and centered our touring around Alba, staying at an agriturismo outside the small town of Neviglie--Agriturismo Marcarini--right in the middle of a vineyard. Read about it and about places we toured and dined at in my trip report. Click on this link. Also check out the report by ekscrunchy on this board.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-and-nice.cfm

It's been my experience that folks who stay in cute, well-run small lodgings often become almost friends with their hosts/and hostesses. We felt that way about Elisa at Marcarini. Others feel that way about the woman who owns Villa Favorita--Ekscrunchy for one. When you get that kind of feeling at a place you may stay only a few days, it tells you that there's something special about the staff and the lodging--and you can't help but want to pass on good recommendations, both for the sake of the folks who run these places and for the sake of travelers who truly want a good recommendation from the folks on this board or others. It works out for everyone.
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 07:33 AM
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I loved my stay at Baur B&B. My room and the property were beautiful. I enjoyed taking walks in the area. Breakfast was the best I have ever experienced. I found the wines of Piedmont to be fantastic!

What time of year are you traveling?
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 09:25 AM
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Yes, please tell us why you changed your handle---as if it is not obvious. Do not take it personally, Aprillilacs, the jab is directed at me and not you. We do not get to express our opinions here anymore---just bizzare !
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 11:12 AM
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How strange! I don't want to add to the controversy in this thread, for obvious reasons, but I do take exception at Piedmont been called the new Tuscany. Maybe the poster means to flatter, but let me assure you that Piedmont stands by itself, the wine and cuisine is superior and the culture is not shabby too (oh my have I set off a debate here?). I would say that Piedmont can be likened to Tuscany without the tourists. BTW we work hard for our guests and appreciate reviews, and if they become our friends after staying with us, isn't that a great reward? Cheers.
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Old Jan 31st, 2010, 11:13 AM
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Rosalini, when do you plan to come to Piedmont and where will you be coming from?
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Old Feb 2nd, 2010, 01:12 PM
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Hi all!

I expected these response by posting what I did, and I'll just say this about me and changing screen names (which I've done five times now on Fodor's and four times on Slow Travel).. On the scale of credibility and helping other unsuspecting travelers, I'll put a dozen changes of screen names up against people who cultivate a reputation for being "experts" like bobthenavigator who knee-jerk recommends places he doesn't personally stay in, whether you know that or not,

But the real reason I posted what I did is because this tag-team promoting of Acqua Terme as Piemonte destination by Slow Travel afficianados to unknowing travelers deserves to be called into question big and LOUD.

To repeat, I've nothing against Baur B&B and am not suggesting it doesn't earn the glowing praise. And to D. Baur's credit, I have even seen her on Slow Travel finally intervene in a thread where some new poster has signed in to innocently ask about planning a visit to Piemonte, and stop the avalanche of insistence the new poster instantly head to Acqui Terme. She will try to find if her BB is convenient to their itinerary. Perhaps some of you don't realize it, but Acqui Terme is -- to put it mildly -- quite beyond the area of most tourist interest in Piemonte.

I am probably the single biggest booster of off-the-beaten-track travel in Italy on the Fodor's board. But I do TELL people I am suggesting a place off the beaten track and WHY. And I ASK the advice seeker what they want out of their trip to a region, Most people coming to Piemonte are looking for something for which Acqui Terme is in no way central.

So let me give KUDOS to Villa Sampaguita for being the only person to ask Rosalini a question about his or her specific plans for his or her trip, and posting broadly useful information about Piemonte.

I think the only person with the potential to be injured in this thread is Rosalini -- who I think we start out assuming is probably saving up hard-earned money to take a trip to Piemonte to experience the most that Piemonte has to offer to HIM. I find it utterly implausible that all of you just stumbled onto this obscure B&B by chance and made a friend.

jgg, I read your trip report BEFORE i posted what I did and it was directed precisely at you, not aprillilacs. Do you really expect us to believe that despite the fact you hired Megan of SLOW TRAVEL to plan your Ligurian itinerary. and stayed with Diane Baur (often referred to "our OWN Diane Baur" on Slow Travel" -- that somehow all this is a big emotional deal to you?

Aprilliacs, bob is right. His "Stay with Tim!" -- with no further explanation, no further concern about a posters overall itinerary, no further itnerest at all except boosting a bud -- was my target. It might have been enough for you, but I'd be sure sorry to have that kind of trip planning done for me, and I think the Rosalinis who come to post here ought to know all that we know.

Bob, express all the opinions you want, But when you've basis in realty or personal experience for holding them, or they are just tossed in the face of everybody asking for advice before you know even where they headed or what they want to do, don't expect people to not act on behalf of people spending their money to travel. (And yes I know you've "stayed with Tim!" If you stuck with only what you've personally experienced, I'd be your biggest fan.)
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Old Feb 2nd, 2010, 01:18 PM
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Rosalini,

I meant to say to you in my earlier post that while I see that scenic drives is high on your list of things you want to do in Piemonte, don't avoid the city of Torino out of the belief that it is ugly, grimy, dirty or without wonderful rewards, or just a lot of art museums and churches that might hold little interest for you on this particular trip. If you very much don't want an urban vacation, then by all means stay out of the cities of Piemonte. But Torino has a special flair, part Italian, part Swiss, a bit of both London and France, fantastic food, incredibly quirky museums and fun shopping.

Have fun wherever you go in Piemonte!
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Old Feb 2nd, 2010, 01:24 PM
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Julie and VillaSampaguita,

This obviously goes beyond the common experience of people meeting a hotelier when they arrive at a hotel, and feeling warm gratitude for the hard work that went into making a happy stay abroad. People make pilgrimages from Slow Travel to Acqui Terme just to meet the woman they've been chatting with for years over the Internet. I've actually seen people apologize to D, Baur for being in Piemonte and not going to Acqui Terme -- like she was some kind of aged relative whose feelings you shouldn't hurt.

As for Piemonte being the new Tuscany, it is so often promoted that way -- yes, on Slow Travel ("Tuscany without the tourists") and by others not quite so dittohead as they are over there -- that Villa Sampaguita has got his work cut out for him clawing that one back. Which isn't to say he's wrong. He's right.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2010, 05:35 AM
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Rosalini,
We were in the Piedmont area a few years ago and had a wonderful time. The countryside is beautiful, the people are friendly, and the wine is incredible! We chose to rent an apartment instead of staying in a B&B or a hotel so we could have a kitchen and additional space. Here's the link:
http://www.meinardi.net/villasole-eng.html
This is a very large 2-bedroom apartment that is above the owner's home. The owners are extremely welcoming and went out of their way to help us, and the apartment is immaculate. You need a car to stay there as it is in the country.

From our apartment, we visited many of the small towns close by. Our favorite place was the town of Alba. It was 20-30 minutes away and has some great restaurants (EnoClub Ristorante was our fav)and shops. There are several restaurants closer to the apartment too.

While we were in Piedmont, we saw several groups of German tourists, but we only ran into one other couple from the US. This area doesn't have the tourists you'll see in other parts of Italy.

Good luck with your planning. I'm sure you'll have a great time.
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Old Feb 3rd, 2010, 07:28 AM
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Dear Rosalini,

I hope that you were able to wade through the good advice you got here, in spite of the negative hijacking. Piemonte is a beautiful region and your time there will be wonderful. We are returning this summer, will be staying near Alba, I think. A few summers ago we stayed at the Baur B&B, which was an amazing experience, and we found Acqui Terme a fine place to base. Our hosts were quite helpful in arranging winery visits, restaurant reservations, etc.

If I were you, I would start a new thread with any other questions, which would help others avoid wading through what has been written above. Good luck with the travel planning.
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Old Feb 27th, 2010, 07:41 PM
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Villa Sampaquita,

Is your Villa named after a flower from the Philippines?
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Old Feb 28th, 2010, 07:02 AM
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I will answer for Tim. Yes, his wife, Rina, is from there.
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Old Feb 28th, 2010, 10:05 AM
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Almost forgot---click on my name above to see me and the plant at Villa Sampaguita.
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Old Feb 28th, 2010, 10:24 AM
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That is a great picture, bob, I never thought to click on your profile. Your comment about the wine opener gave me a smile, my late husband always made absolutely certain the wine opener was packed! CinCin.
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