rialtogrl

I have been to Barcelona several times and usually stay in Eixample, but next week I am going to stay in Barceloneta for 4 nights/3 full days to relax a little and get over my jet lag. In all my visits I have only spend ONE afternoon in Barceloneta, so I am thinking this time I am going to stay put the entire time I am there (except for one excursion to the restaurant Xemei.)

I tried to do a search but it doesn't seem like there is a ton of info here on the area (could also be "user error.") I'm looking for advice on cool bars and cafes, nice places to eat alone, interesting sights to check out, and any interesting food and wine shops. (I know there is a mercato there - I'll definitely be checking that out.)

The experiment is to see if I can stay there for three days and four nights without wandering off into some other neighborhood.. I like to be lazy, so it should be doable. Right?

If anyone has any info I'd be most appreciative.

Christina

I don't think most people on Fodors go to the beach during their vacation n Barcelona nor stay in that neighborhood, so don't talk about it much. I know the beach area itself is full of bars and clubs and good seafood restaurants. Don't know much about the neighboorhood aside from the beach. I think you can find some good info in guidebooks, Timeout has a section on Barceloneta.

I was only there a few times, went to the acquarium and history museum and ate in some cafe on the beach, but didn't stay there and I was obviously only right on the coast.

There were some local protests this year about AirBNB ruining Barceloneta for the people who lived there, or at least tourist vacation rentals.

kja

I guess that depends on how you define the Barceloneta area! I'll be interested in seeing what the experts say.

FWIW, I enjoyed strolling through some of the sculpture-bedecked "parks" that I think dated from the Olympics to the Ciutadella, and I enjoyed a lovely dinner for one at the Restaurant 7 Portes, where I took kimhe's advice to try one of the rice dishes. But I'm not sure that those things count as being in the Barceloneta area.

Robert2533

A few of the recommended restaurants (Maribel's Guides) in the Fishermen's quarter of Barcelonaeta include:

Barraca Mar I Arros, Passeig Maritim, 1, part of the Tribuwoki Group (http://www.tribuwoki.com/restaurante...a-barceloneta/).

La Mar Salada, Passeig Joan de Borbó, 58 (www.lamarsalada.cat).

El Suquet d'Almirall, Passeig Joan de Borbó, 65 (www.suquetdelalmirall.com)

Can Solé, Sant Carles, 4 (restaurantcansole.com).

Agua, Passeig Maritim, 30, on the beach (grupotragaluz.com/en/restaurante/agua-2/)

Bedar

Be sure to keep your eye peeled for drunk naked Italians running thru the streets and into stores. It might be amusing. That's what the protests were about.

rialtogrl

Thank you for the tips! Christina I have never been to the history museum, so bam, that's on my list.

I really prefer bar/cafe/restaurant recs from the folks I ask on the forum rather than guides - but Timeout and Maribel Guides are a good back up if I don't get any first hand info here. I do want to go to the beach - am thinking a sunset picnic at least one night. And I will be there over the weekend so maybe there will be some events going on.

Bedar if I see any naked Italians you will be the first to know. I remember when that happened and thought "their mamas must be so proud."

debinthepeg

We had great Tapas at Jai-ca. Our apartment owner also recommended El Vaso de Oro. We really wanted to try it but just ran out of time.

kimhe

Great project in one of my favourite parts of Barcelona! A big difference between the Barcloneta district itself and the Barceloneta beach promenade, and the Passeig Joan de Bourbon leading onto the beach. The triangle between the two forms the laid-back, vibrant, fun and local atmosphere Barceloneta district. A favorite part of town for many young and not so young barceloneses, Barceloneta easily put a smile on your face.

I have a very soft spot for Carrer Sant Carles, not only because it leads to the monument for the greatest flamenco dancer in history Carmen Amaya (1917-1963) who grew up here when it was the poor Sommorrostro district, but also for cool tapas bars/restaurants and bars like Filferro and Absenta ten meters apart. One could end up spending the entire four days between the two...
Absenta: http://www.absentabar.es/
Small Filferro, with two fllors and a nice terrace: https://www.likealocalguide.com/barcelona/filferro
http://www.yelp.com/biz/filferro-barcelona

Out of this world Rocio Molina dancing on the Carmen Amaya monument in Barceloneta in May 2013. A huge experience. The Queen is dead, long live the Queen! https://vimeo.com/68734588

About the district: http://www.theguardian.com/travel/20...taurants-spain
http://www.barcelonaturisme.com/wv3/...rceloneta.html

rialtogrl

THANK YOU debinthepeg and kimhe...

-Out of this world Rocio Molina dancing on the Carmen Amaya monument in Barceloneta in May 2013-

I was there... you had posted about it and I went and saw it. It was pretty weird! And extremely memorable.

We went to Jai-ca for tapas after!

The apartment I am staying at is down in the southern tip, very close to the beach. I've been looking at some online images and I am getting really excited my few days there.

kimhe

<I went and saw it. It was pretty weird! And extremely memorable. >

So did we, flied down on Friday afternoon and back home a couple of hours after the performance on Saturday ;-)

Yes, you never know where Molina goes next, but this was special because of the setting and the many allusions to Carmen Amaya's life and dance (the sardines, the "cigars", the special turns etc). Molina is totally different than Amaya, but she has the the same extreme drive and potential to carve out her name in dance history with capital letters (she already is, won all the prizes there are, youngest flamenco dancer awarded the Premio Nacional de Danza and New York Times already in 2009 called her "one of the finest soloists in the world").

A few months later she danced a homage to Amaya in The Catalan National Theater in Barcelona, more traditional flamenco style. This turned out to be the finish of her latest work, the pain-, power- and beautiful Bosque Ardora (2014). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kGDxGAeG8xc

The Guardian the day after the Bosque Ardora Spanish premiere in Sevilla last fall, "Flamenco and beyond": http://www.theguardian.com/stage/201...-bosque-ardora

And the Xemei excursion is a very, very good idea, the Bigoli en salsa Veneciana....

rialtogrl

I'm not a huge fan of Bigoli in salsa Veneziana but I am going with a couple of friends, so we can get a plate to try between us. I'm looking forward to finally eating at Xemei, a Venetian told me about it a couple of years ago - I think he knew the "twins."

kimhe

Everything was delicious in Xemei now in March, but the Bigoli was unlike anything I've ever tasted before. Hadn't heard of it before I saw this video, but when I learnt about the "desintegrating" sauce, I immediately suspected that this could be bulls eye...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Lvcjtoh0tU

Egbert

There are some really bad tourist restaurants in Barceloneta. I would highly recommend Maribelsguides. It's not like Fodors or Rick Steves.

suec1

Well since you have been there on earlier visits you are somewhat aware of the vibe. You can certainly spend a lot of time strolling the board walk and people watching. You could also rent a bike (or maybe roller blades) but probably a better idea during the week than on the weekend when it is crowded beyond belief. Restaurants all along for sipping and people watching. Have you tried squid ink paella? I'd put that on your list - it is very good at Set Portes.

rialtogrl

Roller blades? Ha. I need to keep my muscles for navigating Girona with Game of Thrones filming in town. Who knows how many extra hills I will have to traverse to get around them.

Love rice with squid ink!

kimhe

<some really bad tourist restaurants in Barceloneta>

That would primarily be along the Passeig de Joan de Borbó and along the Barceloneta beach promenade (but several great places here as well). The Barceloneta district, between the two and inland from the beach, is almost another world. Barcelona classic Can Sole is also in Carrer Sant Carles, close to both Filferro and Absenta:
http://restaurantcansole.com/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/can-sol%C3%A9-barcelona-2
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Catalonia.html

Restaurant Somorrostro (the name of the old and poor gypsy quarter here where Carmen Amaya grew up) is also in the same street. Haven't been here, but gets raving reviews: http://restaurantesomorrostro.com/en/
http://www.yelp.com/biz/somorrostro-barcelona

And I second suec1's recommendation of Set Portes, an institution in town. I always have a meal here when in Barcelona, fabulous rice dishes etc. etc. But it will break the rules of the experiment with some 200 meters... Carmen Amaya danced here with her father on guitar from a very early age.

rialtogrl

Got here Thursday afternoon and I have to say, I am totally loving Barceloneta. Except for dinner at Xemei (tonight) I have no reason, or desire to leave the neighborhood.

It is HOT. Hot and HUMID. The beach is packed, the beach bars are packed, the people watching is Beyond Belief.

I have pretty bad jet lag (this is normal for me) so I have been basically chilling out in various places and people watching. Mostly I am trying to avoid walking into a wall, sliding glass door or cement pillar, and also trying to avoid being hit by a bicycle.

The first night, I had a fabulous pizza at a place on the corner called Nap Mar. Wood fired, Naples style, excellent service. Last night I went to Barraca, one of Robert's suggestions. I did not plan to eat there but I stopped in for a glass of wine in the afternoon, and the owner came over to talk to me. He gave me the shpiel and I made a reservation, after which the manager came over and told me how he was going to personally take care of me.. one glass of wine and now I have two new buddies. Cool.

Dinner there was not cheap but it was very good. The manager was really great not only with me but with the other diners - all tourists, but that is to be expected at 8 pm! We all got glasses of cava when we arrived, and all the servers were wonderful. In fact I have found everyone here very friendly - despite the tsunami of visitors everyone seems to be smiling around here.

Kimhe I went to the Carmen Amaya monument yesterday, it sure seemed smaller without Rocio Molina dancing there. Passed by Filferro and Absenta too, am going to hit one for lunch today. I also hope to make it to the history museum, but that may have to wait until tomorrow.

Last night, after dinner, ran into a really fun dance party... https://youtu.be/3PuIUiSD_Yk

I am going to try to post in my totally neglected blog (I haven't written there since 2013) and I will post the link here if I do. More to follow here too.

kimhe

<ran into a really fun dance party... https://youtu.be/3PuIUiSD_Yk>

He-he, the Barceloneta version of Sardanas, With the bags in the middle an all ;-)

Have a great night at Xemei, and enjoy the rest of the experiement!

PS!
I just had to mention, Karime Amaya - the grand-niese of Carmen Amaya - probably dances at Tablao Cordobes tonight at 11.30 pm. Perhaps on the way back from Xemei...
http://www.tablaocordobes.es/en/agos...45-aniversario

Her career is taking off right now: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CklXLAvSIyc

One of my favourites, Juan José Jaén "El Junco", also dances here through all August: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sENoCuTQYPs

Karime Amaya plays an important part in this recent documentary about the flamenco culture in Barcelona: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4BibV3tYo0U