amsdon

My husband and I traveled to Spain for 2 marvelous weeks May 13 -26 07. Our itinerary included 7 days in Madrid, a drive to Segovia for another 2 nights, and then Pedraza de la Sierra (Segovia ) for a very relaxing final three nights. The trip was at an easy pace, due mainly to the fact that I had undergone an unexpected surgery a couple of months before.

We have previously traveled to Spain only a couple of times so by no means experts. I speak Spanish, DH does not. While we do not have a unlimited budget, we spent a large part of our time eating well. So consequently this trip report will also include details of menus and some examples of dining costs. It will be in large part a food report. As you can already see I am verbose (Magellan5 you are not alone!) I will try to separate the categories so those that skimmers can breeze through.

<B>Warning : This is a very loooong report! </B>

My initial inspiration for this trip was the fabulous report on Pedraza by Ekscrunchy who inspired me to visit Pedraza along with the now famous Maribel of Maribel‘s Guides.
I am also so appreciative of all the help on this forum from the experts including Robert, Holakjs, Revulgo, Josele, Lincasanova, Josemacall, Kenderina, Cova, and all the fodorites. Thank you again. This was kind of bittersweet trip for us. My mom passed away last summer, we lived together and were very close. She loved Spain. Right before she died she asked me if I thought we could all go there as a family. It broke my heart as I knew she would have loved that.

Departure/Arrival:
We flew economy on Lufthansa Los Angeles International Airport to Frankfurt on a Sunday 2:45 pm flight, then immediately on to Madrid. The initial 10 hour flight was packed and I was in the dreaded middle seat. The economy flight was efficient, on time, and of course torturous. Despite the fact that were tired from working up to the last minute, no sleep was possible. No matter, we were in Spain! Although a bit lagged, we whizzed through the airport (no customs check in Madrid only Frankfurt) to find the TI desk there and obtain the recommended transportation disclosure booklet (is changes colors periodically by the way) to have in hand for the taxi ride. Quite a few taxi hawkers hovered at the first exit offering taxis to those arriving. We preferred to go to the exit where the taxis were lined up and waiting. The taxi ride from Barajas to the Opera Hotel was 22 E and the initially reserved driver proved to be a friendly after all. He wanted to know how we felt about Beckham. Lots of traffic when we arrived around 3pm.

<B>Hotel Opera: Loved the Location! </B>
Before we knew it we arrived at the hotel, 20 minutes tops. The Opera Hotel is an older, very well located hotel near the Royal Palace on Cuesta de Santo Domingo 2 . It is directly in front of the Opera House and next to the lovely Plaza del Oriente. Our room was average (small by US standards) and quaint. We did notice some remodeling taking place.. We requested a change to a 7th floor room instead of the 1st and they accommodated us right away. After so many hours we did need to freshen up and decided to unpack since we would be there for a week. The room was fine, the beds smaller than regular twins. There was very good closet space and a window overlooking a side street had great noise and light control. So what if the room was kind of dingy & a bit musty? (more on that later). There was a "real" separate bath that had lots of hot water. Great!

<B>Discovering the area: SOL, Plaza Mayor & Cava Baja </B>
We unpacked and were anxious to get out of our darkish room into the glorious sunlight. We resisted the strong urge to nap since we knew that was the kiss of death and would surely increase the jet lag. We instead strolled around the surrounding area; the Plaza Isabel with it’s statue is made a great reference point for us right there near the hotel & across the street from the Opera House. In the distance in the other direction was an incredible view of the Royal Palace just a few short blocks away. We loved this location! This was by now a Monday a very pleasant and warm in mid May. There were lots of people everywhere in this area of many shops, (some open & some not at approx 5-6 pm) but still very busy. We strolled along the hustle and bustle and headed to the area of Puerta del Sol. Someone else referred to this as the sea of humanity. Mimes, people dressed as statues and even a guy in a red matador outfit posing for photos for change.

We also briefly stopped in to see the lobby of the Europa Hotel. We had considered this Hotel at the recommendation of a friend but decided there was too much traffic in that area. Indeed it was smack in the middle of Puerta del Sol, right next to many shops and places to eat and of course Corte Ingles department store. The lobby of the Europa was bright and spotlessly clean. The staff/owners are reported to be very attentive and helpful. They promptly and courteously answering my e mail inquiries as well as offering me (in Spanish ) helpful information that was relevant to our planning. I think if you are wanting to be right in the thick of Sol, the Hotel Europa may be a very good, economical and very clean option.

By now it was 7pm or so and had not eaten since the tasteless lunch onboard the plane.
A kind of desperate search for a tapas place took hold. I had researched and planned most of this trip down to the restaurants but we wanted something immediately . We found ourselves at the easy to spot Museo del Jamon. So we decided to make this one of two tapas stops at this still early hour. We naturally ordered a selection of ham & chorizo ( we Love jamon iberico & chorizo is hard to find in our home town) & some stuffed mushrooms. We were already in heaven. But when we get hungry we go a little overboard. Another tapa was quickly ordered, I think some crispy & piping hot croquetas de jamon. The place was mainly tourists at this point, and we hung out at the bar for a while enjoying the tapas with a tinto. DH had a cana (small beer). He reminded me that we originally planned get to Cava Baja for tapas, we needed to show some restraint if we were going to be able to eat again. He was right, and we headed off to do some more strolling around, this time towards Plaza Mayor. The many cafes in the Plaza were pretty empty and the waiters were circling about, inviting everyone to sit at their particular café.

<B> Festival of San Isidro</B>
When we arrived at the Plaza Mayor, we immediately knew that this was the conclusion of the week celebrating San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid. We saw many people in the Plaza Mayor dressed in typical costumes. Some were dressed as “majos and majas” what I think of as “Goyescas” style, the long dresses with net shawls and hair adornments made of those small pom poms (what are those pom poms called ? ). The more typical costume of the celebration I believe though are the Chulapos and Chulapas. The Chulapo wears a three piece suit consisting of long black pants and checkered vest and jacket, a cap also checkered or patterned and a white scarf around the neck. A red carnation at the lapel is part of the outfit. The ladies or “Chulapas”wear a long dress usually in polka dots with a large beautiful shawl, the Manton de Manila over their shoulders. On top of the head is worn a red flower usually a carnation, and over that, tied at the chin is a triangular scarf. Although we did not see anyone dancing, the “Schotis” is the traditional dance done as a couple in this traditional outfit. There were quite a few couples dressed this way and they were quite striking and obviously took a lot of pride as they strolled about in the Plaza.

We spent a while in the Plaza Mayor then following the tips from Maribel’s Guides & passed through the arch leading to the to Cava Baja . This cobblestone street leads past the famous Casa Botin Restaurant (not so impressed with the cochinillo some years ago) and headed down to see what else would sound familiar from the guides. I think we passed the Meson de la Guitarra ( recommended as kind of a Spanish Karaoke by Rick Steves) kept walking, eventually came across the tiny and very busy Taberna Txakoli. Cava Baja, 26. This was a (Basque) tapas bar specializing in seafood and varied pintxos vascos. The small bar was packed with locals, one family with children and many younger Spaniards. The assortment of tapas was so enticing it was hard to pick. I could see my husband was practically salivating…. He settled on incredibly delicious garlicky squid on a pincho (Pintxo). The handsome young man serving at the bar could have passed for a model. When I asked him which were the more typical choices of Basque specialties we were not disappointed. He sort of kept an eye on us and was always there before we needed him to remove the small plates and offer more of anything. Wish I could give a better description. Delicious it was ALL of it. The seafood was great shrimp and clams and a wonderful and amazingly tender octopus. As well, there was something delicious spread on toast and another with dates and jamon iberico. More excellent tinto de la casa…probably the best de la casa we had in Spain. We were now very satisfied and definitely out of our misery. But we needed some rest and headed back to the hotel, about 10/15 minutes away at a slowish walk. It was now about 9 :30 pm and the street was clearly coming more alive. I felt a pang of envy as the night was just beginning, but I knew we needed to get some sleep. It has been a very long day and we had plans to do a “Maribel” walk tomorrow.....
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<B>Maribel's Austrias Walk & Museo de San Isidro </B>

Tuesday was our first full day in Madrid & we got it together a bit late (still lagged)
We enjoyed our cold buffet breakfast (included w/room @ Opera ) of jamon Serrano, chorizo, hard boiled eggs, tortilla Espanola, cereal, yogurt, pastry and breads with that great coffee. The fresh OJ was wonderful here and throughout the trip. The breakfast was good and the little dining room was pleasant but almost uncomfortably quiet. You could her a pin drop. I was tempted to laugh out loud because it was such a contrast to the very loud conversations that take place in the local restaurants & bars. I am not complaining though. Thankfully there was no smoking at all in that little refuge.

The plan was to follow Maribel’s walk of Hapsburg Madrid /Madrid de las Austrias. We truly enjoyed the different streets and the changes that neighborhoods reflected. It was a sunny warm slightly surreal day ….wonderful.

It was also a lot hotter than expected. The weather reports prior to our departure had indicated much cooler weather and it was now somewhere in the 80s. Here in particular we saw older couples arm in arm, many times with a walking stick or cane. You know, those well dressed gentlemen and ladies, sometimes ladies together arm in arm as well. They always take such pride in their appearance it seems.

Somewhere along the line we stumbled onto the museum of San Isidro. We had not known of this place, but it turned out to be one of the most interesting sites. The small museum tells of the development of Madrid through the ages and shows many interesting sketches and paintings as well a large wooden model of the city. The museum is also said to be the site of the miracle that took place when San Isidro’s little son fell into a well, but was saved when the water miraculously rose. The free tour includes a visit to the “pozo” or well on the premises as well as a cup of the water.

We continued on past Jardines de las Vistillas and enjoyed the beautiful panoramic views past the Almudena Cathedral which I believe was being renovated. From there we headed back to the area of the Palace and since it had been several hours thought about lunch.

Lunch took place in another unplanned spot near the hotel, Café Vergara. This cute restaurant down the street from the Plaza Oriente obviously had many tourists considering the location. They also offer an English translation of the menu. It had a bistro feel w/small tables, crisp white linens as well as a small bar w/ tapas. A tempting assortment of cakes and tortes was displayed in the front area. The menu del dia included bread, two lunch courses, and as beverage a choice of wine, bottled water or a refresco (soda) plus desert for 12,50E. We chose a simple and fresh green salad as a first course, but noticed that at neighboring tables many opted for a huge serving of pasta.
The salad was delicious and I wondered why we can’t have such fresh tasting produce available in restaurants back home. We do after all live in southern California. But it was so much better here. The second course choices included a steak or salmon. We chose the salmon which was really perfectly cooked and moist. When given a choice of the wine or water there was no hesitation on out part. When a whole bottle arrived (we drank it of course) we thought perhaps we would see an additional charge but it was all included. Desert was once of the creamiest rice puddings on earth. (Arroz con leche) for me and helado for my dh. We left happy and full, but still noticed the glass case of tarts with whipped crème al la Gateau St Honore as we left. This was the first sit down meal of the trip . The service was great, the food delicious, and we were presented with the bill only when we asked for it after the coffee. No pressure to leave at Café Vergara, on the contrary, it was wonderful lunch.

<B>Dinner at Posada de la Villa </B>
We decided to eat yet AGAIN later on in the evening.
We set out determined to get in to Casa Lucio, around 10 pm. This was starting to feel like our street. Sadly, we did not heed Maribel’s advice to reserve a week in advance and were told that there was nothing available. Too bad, but not unexpected without reservations. We were not really disappointed we quickly headed over a very short way to Posada de la Villa, another Maribel recommended restaurant. This time we were seated immediately.

Posada de La Villa is in a very old building, said to be an originally from the 1640’s. It underwent a renovation in the 80’s ( the 1980’s according to the website.) We were ushered in to a comfortable dining room, passing a large wood burning oven made of stone & shaped like an igloo.

I don't know how we possibly could have been hungry but amazingly after smelling the aromas wafting from the kitchen we started off with a cold white asparagus salad dressed in a light vinaigrette and delicious bread (again). A bottle of Rioja was opened. My DH selected a thick veal steak which came in a sizzing terracotta plate en su jugo natural. I ordered the Pepitoria de Gallina. It had pine nuts and was excellent, if slightly salty in a tasty sauce. In general I think the Spanish cook has a heavier hand with salt. No? It was very good anyway. The meal ended with a cheesecake for DH and a desert that was a really trio of pastries meant for more than one person. Lustful. Here’s the website which has an interesting English translation. http://www.posadadelavilla.com/.


Dining at tables nearby were some locals explaining to another table of Cubans from Miami where to see flamenco and where to get a good Paella. They recommended Café de Chinitas to them. Before long we were all involved in the discussion. I even handed over to them my little green index cards with the address of Casa Patas on them.

So the new acquaintances chatted with us a while asking us the usual questions regarding earthquakes in California etc. and we had a great time laughing. Eventually DH & I left to walk back “home” around midnight. Heading back up almost to Plaza Major we noticed a flamenco club that I had never heard of .

<B>Disappointing Flamenco!</B>

Was the tablao also called “Arco de Cuchilleros” on Calle Cuchilleros? I am not sure. I must have blocked it out because sadly it was a huge disappointment. It was a cute place with a great stage and several raised balcony tables for romantic couples, stage-side seating as well & great possibilities. It had (GASP) taped music! to which the dancers performed. Or more accurately “rushed though” Not even performing a dance in it’s entirety, but rather chopping the numbers up in pieces assuming the audience would never know the difference.
It is painful to relive.

They did have 2 live guitarists and a cantaor but for the most part taped music! I almost cried. I support the art form & love flamenco. But this was sinful. I cannot say that I would recommend this tablao on the merits of the show.
It was however a only 18E pp (drink included ) but it did more harm to the art form than good. Que lastima….


<B>Wonderful Casa Patas ! </B>

The Saturday night at Casa Patas proved to be a wonderful. We decided to see the second show at midnight and reserved for dinner at 10:15 pm. I typically do not have dinner at a tablao as usually the food is not the forte. But this was Saturday and I wanted to see the show without a lot of running around. Plus I suspected the dinner reservation might ensure better seats in the show area and I was right on that.

When I called to reserve I spoke to a friendly lady and I specified I hoped for good seats in the tablao closer to the stage. She suggested Saturday instead of Friday as they were already heavily booked when I called. By the way she was equally friendly when we arrived, arriving about ½ hour late. We did call en route to say we had gotten lost & overshot the main street by many blocks. Even though the restaurant was busy they held out dinner table and despite a line outside were ushered to our table quickly without waiting. The restaurant is longish with a bar all along the long width and tables on the opposing side. It was very busy, not for a romantic quiet dinner but really great for people watching since they were in and out all night. It was fascinating to watch the waiters and servers in action here and the people dining. Our waitress was attentive and the food was better than expected. This was not meant to be a dining highpoint mind you, but we felt it was very good! Definitely would do it again if seeing the show and very surprised about that.

We both ordered fish I think called “rodaballo”. It was just right and after so many heavy meals. I am amazed at all the good fish in Madrid. Two salads mixtas, again fresh tasting tomatoes, pan (extra charge @ 2,20 for 2 )bottled water. This one night we ordered wine by the glass instead of a bottle (4 copa T Gazate R @ 9,60 total) Desert was another tarta de queso for DH and for me queso with membrillo. Love that combination. w/ coffees came to about E 78,25 plus the additional show fee E31 pp. A drink was included in the show price.

We were surprised that the dinner was as good as it was. Next to us sat a lovely Spanish family that caught my eye. Mom & dad & a sweet daughter around 11 was so very affectionate with her parents. There was something about this family having dinner (at 11:30 pm )and the way they interacted that I would note many times more on this trip. Spanish families are very sweet and loving in the way they speak to each other.

Then I saw the line that had miraculously appeared for the midnight show. Out waitress saw my face and immediately told me not to worry, dinner patrons were seated right away. Thank goodness. As we went in past the others I heard someone questioning the view from their seats in the far back …we were escorted to tiny cocktail table in an excellent position near the stage but not too to close as to lose perspective. PERFECT. We ordered out drink and uno dos & tres …it was showtime…

I was told the opening dancer, Alberto Selles, was a last minute addition. "He's talented" the woman next to me commented to me. She was there as as a guest of the guitarist she said. Accompanied by a male singer (cantaor)Alberto Selles danced two numbers; an Alegrias which is a dance/cante born in Cadiz, & a Solea, a serious, ambitious number for a accomplished performer. Talented he was. The audience was very appreciative and he pretty much brought down the house. Technically strong and balanced he also had a good deal of style. Even duende.
Oh, and he was 16 years old. Braces and all. With a baby face.
That is usually not seen in a place of this type. (This is not for amateurs.) I personally am not one partial to kiddie acts but this kid was good, despite his age. I expect he might do amazing things artistically as an adult. I hope so. I spoke to him and his mother briefly later, to say how much I enjoyed his dancing.
"He wants to give you a kiss..he's very affectionate". I felt like a grandmother and he really looked like a sweet 12 year old, at that moment. But not on stage. His pure joy and enthusiasm for dance was obvious. I wish him much success and will look for him in the future to see how he develops.

When Carmen de la Jara, a recognized cantaora (female flamenco singer), came out as the featured artist of the night, I wondered how many people in Casa Patas realized that they were not going to see a alot of dancers. This night was really about cante (singing). Real and straight flamenco cante. No flash, no pretensions. She sang for us and for herself. No dance really on her part. Just great cante. Her guitarist Antonio Carrion was superb. Again no need for musical theatrics here. They were mesmerizing together. They had 2 female palmistas, but very low key, jeans, casual. This was not a performance designed to impress anyone with flashy costumes. The audience seemed entranced throughout the 3 or 4 numbers. Even for those that understandably expected the usual four boys or five girls w/alot of color on stage.

I truly enjoyed this night. I love flamenco. I found myself wishing my mother were there too to discuss the show in detail, as we always had so many times. And 20 years before with my father as well. They were, after all, the ones that gave me the gift of appreciation of flamenco. I think they would have been so happy that my husband & I took her advice and took this trip together again now.
She always said not to wait too long because you never know what might happen.
(How right she was)

<B> Vision On/Off Bus </B>

We found this to be a great way to see the city from the second deck of the bus & listening to the headphones. We did both routes and it was very convenient to get us over to the Museum area. This was a perfect break for our feet. We did buy the ticket for two days (E20,00 pp) so we used this as a taxi as well for those days. After a long day of museums or visiting other sites sometimes we would just hop on again a take another spin. The city is different in the morning as opposed to the pm so it was fun. Take a sweater (and a small umbrella if cloudy) just in case if it is cool up on top it's bit more fresco.


<B>Museo del Traje </B>
Clothing Museum

For me this was one of the most pleasant surprises of our trip. Although some regional costumes are displayed, the museum is really not so much a collection of costumes as it is a display and overview of the development in Spanish clothing through the years up to the 20th century. I found the information regarding the economic and social aspects of Spanish attire very interesting. For instance, the social significance of the well dressed wet -nurse as a reflection of economic and social status. The displays show the outfits in the sequence of the various layers of garments for both men & women. It's amazing what they went through to dress!
The modern displays were also beautiful.

The museum had a serenity to it and was very pleasant to visit on the Sunday when I attended. It had many modern open spaces. Outside there was a garden with many areas to just sit and relax. Also interesting was a metal sculpture depicting Velazquez’ famous Meninas. The museum was located at Avenida Juan de Herrera 2 Ciudad Universitaria. The entrance fee was only 3E .Students get 50% off and seniors over 65 get in free.

The Museo del Traje had a great shop, It was not cheap, but had some very nice things. I purchased a book titled "La moda en la pintura Velazquez"; Usos costumbres del siglo XVII. This book elaborates on and defines the clothing and jewlery in the paintings of Velasquez with diagrams and photos.
Also A little abbreviated guide of the items in the museum called Guia Abreviada Museo del Traje for only 1E. They had nice section for children as well as some very lovely silk shawls (mantones) in some pretty & unusual colors like a sold lilac/purple. I also got a little set of 12 color postales (postcards) showing various types of Basque Costumes.

The gift items here were perhaps a bit pricey but certainly different and lovely.

One thing we experienced this time was that we spent a lot of time fleeing the masses of student groups in the Prado, Alcazar & La Granja. Spanish & French preteens & teens traveling in very large groups with few chaperones. Yikes! They were having fun which is natural. But we kept running from them like the plague was coming because there was no way to hear a word or see anything once they got into a room.

<B>El Burladero </B>

This was a cute little bar on Echegaray 19, near Plaza Santa Ana. Unlike many bars it actually had a sitting area in the back. It did not have live music but the bar played a lot of upbeat flamenco (rumbas and bulerias) on a sound system. It was a pretty young crowd but we did not feel out of place. It was a fun place to have a drink while listening music. The street got pretty busy in the late hours.

<B> La Plateria Bar </B>
This little cafe was mentioned by Maribel and we were happy when we came across it after visiting the Prado, across the street. While this was just a little early lunch/merienda,(our four hour feeding we called it) it was a great little spot to people watching.

We loved the tapas we ordered.
2 empanadas; one meat and one tuna/Bonito. These were more the style of empanada Gallega ( a large empanada sliced in square portions as opposed to the little turnovers.) The meat empanada was especially tasty and I would love to get that crust recipe) Another snack we had was salmon con brie, very good. And the last one according to my receipt was bocadillo de ventresca con pimientos. If I recall this was a fish tapa but I don't remember the word ventresca on the menu so I assume (please correct me) that it was some sort of tuna belly. It was cooked fish I know that and so yummy, not fishy. I remember saying to my DH that this was so simple, the little bit of cooked fish on the crusty bread with Piquillo peppers on top. Flavour was wonderful. We broke tradition and ordered "refrescos" instead of wine. It was pretty warm at that point and those little cokes in glass bottles looked so appealing and nostalgic. Even though I no longer drink it at home, I just gave in to the crazy urge to down it with good old CocaCola, bottled in Spain, of course. Hope that wasn't sacrilegious....

<B>Tapas @ Plaza Santa Ana </B>

La Casa del Abuelo
On Friday night we decided to go for tapas in the area of Santa Ana.

We first stopped at La Casa del Abuelo. Small and cozy with a standing only bar area, La Casa Del Abuelo served shrimp many ways and smelled of heavenly garlic. We tried our shrimp simply a la plancha. It was quickly grilled within a few feet of us, actually the grill was right inside the restaurant area.
The young ladies at the bar were friendly and served us tinto de la casa in sturdy glasses to go with the tasty shrimp. Don't be surprised if you see the tails and shells littering the floor.

The next stop was a sit down place right in busy main area of Santa Ana. I must admit to forgetting the name of this restaurant/bar. It is worth mentioning because it is where DH tried his first "Callos a la Madrilena."
Callos a la Madrilena is basically a stew made of tripe, sausage or chorizo, and (I am told) beef snout. I am not an expert but I assume the snout was there. There were many odd gelatinous things in the stew....Sorry, I know that is not an appealing description (lol) but it's delicious...if somewhat different for us. It was served with a good crusty bread for mopping up the sauce. I have had it once before & have never made myself (hard to find the beef snout back home at Ralph's) It was good, but honestly IMO is a hearty dish best reserved for a chilly weather.

Incidentally both of these bars had similar methods of ordering; The server took your order, noted it on a pad, then returned to a central spot and literally shouted the order at the top of their lungs. Now because of the noise level in general it was not as startling as it sounds. But it was amusing. The waiter would release a series of orders in one single breath. The girls at the Casa del Abuelo shouted the order even though the cook was merely a few feet away! But it was fun to watch and listen.

On our way back to the hotel we passed a small street called Pasadizo de San Gines and decided to stop for a chocolate nightcap. Chocolateria de San Gines serves churros and chocolate, the famed chocolate so thick it seems more like pudding. One order of churros is really more than plenty for two especially with the hot chocolate.

What a combination we had that night!
Good thing we remembered to pack the Alka Selzer and Rolaids.

<B> Madrid Dining </B>

We certainly did not hit all the restaurants we intended. I had hoped to try the Basque restaurant Alkalde recommended by Robert, as well as a few others. We do have very healthy appetites( translation: we can really put it away.) Still we found after the first few days of gluttony, that too much overeating simply numbs the senses and the ability to truly enjoy the next meal.

No matter how much we loved the food, it was a change from our usual diet. Eventually we had to cool it & rotate in a lighter meal here & there. For us that meant perhaps a gazpacho and salad on a warm day. DH loved the mixed seafood salad (including yet more octopus) Remember when ordering a salad be sure to note the ingredients. Lettuce, tomatoes. A simple asparagus salad is delicious. But with “ensalada” you also might be offered something else altogether . At the Museo del Jamon we were offered some “ensalada” (free of charge) and got a delicious mixture of meats, ham chorizo and cheese bathed in a olive oil But I think ensalada in general still refers mainly to something green.

Somehow those yummy ham croquetas show up at every restaurant and I personally love them. As in Spain, in Cuban cooking croquetas are also a regular item, but tedious to make. We indulged but were becoming more aware that we need to curtail a bit in preparation for famed roast suckling pig & baby lamb in Segovia & Pedraza. I refrained from ordering any suckling pig or lamb while in Madrid. (I had been disappointed @ Botin years ago anyway w/ the roast pig but I hear it‘s better now) It was not hard to abstain, instead we focused on other specialties such as solomillo (beef filet) and fish which was really good in Madrid anyway. Plus there were all the tapas to try.

Keep in mind that were still starting off each day with the ample cold buffet served at the Hotel Opera. I never tired of the jamon Serrano nor the chorizo, although I did OD on jamon for just one day after stopping in a little tiny store across the street from the Hotel to buy a “light lunch” to take back to the room.
The delicious but extra strong coffee we had several times a day was also a change from our regular diet. Now that I’m back even Starbucks seems weak, and I miss the café solo.

In addition to the bigger restaurants we also enjoyed the outdoor cafes. In particular Taberna del Alabardero (C/Felipe V ) not far from our hotel in the area of the Royal Palace. They had a nice menu del dia which was also becoming part of our routine for lunch, including the wine, desert, the whole besugo. DH says he had the best ice cream he had ever had at this particular restaurant, a goblet of vanilla, chocolate and an incredible strawberry.



<B>El Schotis/Cava Baja, 11 </B>

This was our choice for one of our dinners at approx 9:30 pm and it was our understanding they were accustomed to early diners. Although we were tempted to go to Casa Paco , we not disappointed with El Schotis. Though I noted that we must have been seated in the quiet front area reserved for tourists as the locals breezed in and were whisked to another area from where gregarious laughter could be heard. Sounded like fun. I was glad to be with my DH and the we rarely have so much quality time back home. He was a gem to travel with and his unique sense of humor added so much to our time together. I can honestly say that while we are not used to being together 100% of the time at home, we never got tired of being together on this trip. Our private joke about aspiring to be like the older Spanish couples walking arm in arm continues today.
The meal was wonderful, staring with good bread, a good bottle of Rioja and a couple of starters including (I think it was here ) Pisto Manchego. Additionally DH ordered some fabulous sautéed mushrooms, huge & meaty Of course, great olives where offered routinely at many establishments including I think here. We loved those.

The solomillo (beef filet) was the star of the show here. A generous (huge) portion was presented extremely rare to each of us in a sizzling terra cotta plate. So extremely hot in fact that the meat was meant to continue cooking on the plate. Within a few minutes the steak was cooked to perfection. Our waiter automatically gave instructions and a demonstration of this cooking technique. The filet was tender, juicy and so delicious. You know the entrée was really good if neither one of us recall what was for desert. In Spain there were so many luscious deserts to choose from: creamy arroz con leche (rice pudding) pastries galore, ice cream and sorbete. What ever it was that night rest assured it was scrumptious.

By the way, you may already know that a Schotis is a category or type of Spanish music. It is typical of Madrid and sometimes danced as a couple usually dressed in the fashion of the Chulapos described in the earlier part of this report.

<B>Monasterio de Las Dezcalzas Reales </B>
Plaza de las Descalzas Reales

In addition to the more famous museums such as the Prado, Reina Sofia and the Royal Palace, we were so glad we decided to see the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales. (Monastery of the Barefoot Royals). Within five minutes of leaving the Hotel Opera we easily found it located in the Plaza de Las Reales, not far from Sol and right next to the Hotel Intur Palacio San Martin.

This interesting monastery houses some of the most beautiful and priceless art, including works by Titian, Rubens and Subaran. It is recommended in Maribel’s Guides to arrive early. Indeed when we arrived a little after 10 am there was a moderate line that took a very long time to progress since they seemed to be allowing the visitors in groups of 20 or so. Be careful with the schedule the hours are limited 10:30am- 12:45 and 16:00 - 17:45. I have no idea what happened to the long line of people that were waiting behind us when we finally arrived at the entrance near end of the morning scheduled time. They announced at the door that two of the rooms were closed (the Choir area and the Tapestry room) and that the tours would be only in Spanish. We were glad to make the “cut” after the long wait and agreed to the rules and regulations they recited to us.
We were told by the guide that the monastery was originally a small palace and that the Royals stayed here periodically before it was converted into an actual Franciscan monastery founded by Juana (daughter of Carlos V & Isabel of Portugal ) in the 16th century. The wealthy women, like Juana of Austria, (she is also buried here ) brought with them a dowry, thus the beautiful and expensive individual chapels adorned with treasures from all over the world. Paintings, tapestries and sculptures, icons and works of art, all one of a kind and priceless. Nevertheless the monastery found itself in financial need in the 20th century and it is now designated as an official museum. Despite this the nuns still occupy and maintain the monastery however not while the tours are in process.

I would recommend this if you are an art lover and willing to experience the tour in Spanish only. FYI our guide spoke Spanish very slowly and deliberately so it was very easy to follow. We were told that on some occasions tours in English may be arranged for groups. In either case if you are interested don’t wait too long. Some of the chapels were no longer viewable because the ancient wooden doors were falling apart. It is certainly worth seeing.

The long wait outside gave us a view of the Hotel Intur Palacio San Martin. I recalled there were some comments here on this site about the homeless people that lived on that corner. We did see the homeless people on several days. They did not seem to be a bother to anyone. The hotel in general seemed very nice and the area fairly quiet, even though the Corte Ingles department store was right down the block.


More Shopping

Gifts at Gil (Mantones, Mantillas e Abanicos)
Sucsesor de Antolin Quevedo
Carrera de San Jeronimo, 2

We needed to buy a nice fan for someone. My husband was asked by a colleague at work to buy something “nice” in a small fan and offered a budget up to E 100. She intended to use it for going out on special dates etc. I thought this was a very generous budget, unless she was a collector in which case the price could go way over the 100 E. He said she was open to anything with flowers. That narrowed it down to about 3000 fans.

After looking at many of the shops in Madrid we saw the price rage was quite varied depending on the quality of course. We happened upon a shop Called Gil. They had a many fans which they gladly took out and displayed in a long counter. The shop had many types of large fans. Some used for Spanish dance as well. The smaller flowered fans were beautiful and I also bought some for my friends as gifts.

This is a good place to look at beautiful mantones (shawls) or “picos” which are the narrower shawls with fringe, as well as mantillas . They also sold some of those cute cloths that have the Spanish recipes on them for use if you have a tapas party or just like them as a little recuerdo.

The sales ladies were very helpful and patient. I felt the prices were fair and the selection great. The told me that they did plenty of phone or fax mail order and would be glad to send overseas. Unfortunately it does not look like they have a website . Somehow buying them in person from a shop like this felt special. Certainly you can buy many of these items now online, mostly made in Asia.

<B>La Barraca </B>
Reina 29 Madrid

DH saw an episode of Samantha Brown on the Travel Channel that showed La Barraca specializing in paella. Not far from Gran Via, we decided to go there one of the days we used the Vision On/Off Bus. It’s not far from the Vision Bus stop, near Alcala and around a corner. We stopped in for lunch early at 1pm, before the business crowd. The restaurant was dated 1935 and was charming . They had a variety of paellas and arroces. We enjoyed the mixed seafood paella, along with a salad and a bottle of white wine. The restaurant was deserted except for us and another customer at this hour and the staff most pleasant and attentive. They are very used to tourists. We have had many paellas, mostly at home. This one was good, in that the rice perfectly cooked, not overcooked. The paella was not overly generous with the seafood as will be the case in most restaurants. But I would say this was good overall. A pretty & cozy setting.
The paella was 16,95 PP., 2 bottled waters @ 2,75 enslada de vegetales 5,25 really really good croquetas caseras (again) @ 5,25E and the Mantel Blanco wine 11,20. Total 67,25.
I was not wowed by the paella, not because we did not like it, but because we prefer to make paella at home.

<B>The rain in Spain falls mainly on room 706 </B>
We decided to make it an early night since we were driving to Segovia the next morning. Plus it had started to rain while we were walking the city. It was kind of romantic. So we decided to have a bite in the Café de la Opera, the restaurant that is next to the Hotel. We watched as the rain increased rather suddenly. Many opera goers rushed in to the case for refuge and sat out the down pour. The restaurant is nothing special (we ordered grilled sandwich de jamon) and the service very slow. But it was relaxing to sit a while and we watched the storm from inside.

Once in the room I noticed a strange sound and it took me a moment before we realized that it was water dripping on my bed pillow .
The dripping quickened and then really started in. The pillow and soon the bed would be ruined. We reported the problem and a clerk came rushing over. They had had several other complaints on our floor, he said.
The 8th floor was the top floor and undergoing renovations. We were on the 7th floor. We were told they would eventually have terraces with Jacuzzis up there. Right now it sounded like they at the very least had wading pools. But thank goodness we returned when we did. Certainly it appeared that the hotel, despite knowing of the problems, did not check to see if we had a leaky room.

The staff apologized sincerely. We were offered any available room. We accepted a room on a much lower floor and moved in haste. The water was really leaking now and they would certainly have a major problem with the parquet floors. The plaster was a mess. The maintenance staff was not available. DH made some helpful suggestions and I could see he was about to offer to go help . They had some huge plastics that were simply hanging on the stairwell. We moved rooms and did so quickly. No one offered to help us or offer rolling racks so to avoid re packing but honestly they were ill prepared and panicking. We decided to call it a night. It was pouring. That’s when we noticed the smell of stale smoke on the clean crisp sheets. In the rush I forgot to specify non smoking room. The smell stayed with me all night.

The next morning we checked out. More than ready for our drive to Segovia
The “not so nice” staff was now there. We had already paid in full with the exception of one fruit juice from the mini bar. They asked me to pay. I mentioned that in view of the inconvenience with the leaking roof the night before, perhaps they might waive the 2E cost of the juice. She did so silently. Absolutely no apology for the leaking room. No comment. No “buen viaje.”
We asked for a taxi to take us to the Eurocar rental office but were told that the taxi drivers would not like it. Too short a drive. They suggested we hail our own cab and not say where we were going until inside the taxi!

We hailed our cab and of course explained where we were going first. The somewhat initially disappointed taxi driver was a very helpful guy and so he got a fat tip.

The Hotel Opera will no doubt be in a soggy mess for a while. At least the 7th floor. Perhaps that was why I initially noticed the musty smell at check in. It was kind of sad really. I loved the location and the older style. I’ve reviewed it on T.A referring to the Opera as a dignified but faded lady needing major renovations. I hope they take better care of her.

But we were very excited to drive to beautiful Segovia!

<B> Segovia</B>

The drive from Madrid to Segovia was quite easy and very pleasant once we got the rental car in Madrid. We had reserved and pre paid a larger model Peugeot with GPS from Auto Europe, http://www.autoeurope.com.

Our designated Auto Europe office was located near Plaza de España on a very narrow side street with limited street parking. The attendant was helpful and informative but do allow plenty of time to get the car as it seems to be a one person office. Be aware if you plan to drive that the cars are mostly manual drive and that they are available in diesel as well, which is slightly better on gas mileage.

We ended up with an even larger Fiat and DH was satisfied with that car & had a lot of fun driving. Yu can now take the train & avoid the cost of the rental car & the hassle of getting to the rental office by taxi with luggage.

The GPS system was great on the highway but was more of a novelty for us and really don’t need it. In fact upon arriving in Segovia proper the GPS was more confusing and we shut it off altogether. Too many “roundabouts” and small one way streets.


In Segovia we had a room reserved at the Hotel Infanta Isabel. Due to the mostly pedestrian streets in the center of Segovia, it took some time once in the city proper to figure out how to access the hotel. We kept driving in circles. I finally just called them and they told me to just drive in through to the plaza (ignoring the signs saying emergency vehicles only )and park directly in front of the hotel, as they would move the car to their car park for us.
Upon arriving we both immediately fell in love with beautiful Segovia!


After getting settled again we set out to see the plaza and grab an early lunch
In anticipation of the evening meal, we did not want to overeat. (HA) However once again the menu del dia was the most appealing choice. We decided on one of the cafes with tables in the plaza La Taurina Plaza Mayor 8.

We were presented with a delicious and great full meal, starting with the famous bean dish Judiones. These are very large tender beans cooked with pieces of delicious sausage. In itself a filling and satisfying meal. Next came a ¼ chicken each in a flavorful sauce, very very good. Wonderful rustic bread, one large bottled water and good red wine /tinto de la casa, plus desert and coffee the bill came to 31,03 Euros for two.
Plus the service was great and attentive.
What a deal.

A word on restaurants

Here again as in Madrid, I found the wait staff to be from elsewhere, this time a Peruvian waitress. Interesting...the number of countries represented in the Spanish service industry. Anyway this young lady was probably used to being taken for Spanish. We noticed the wait staff was put off by more brusque diners barking out orders in whatever language they spoke. We saw this happen several times in the smaller restaurants in particular, the less formal places in Spain.

We later overheard some tourists ordering and openly commenting about “safe” choices to eat: dry ham sandwiches and soup. They showed very little interest in the menu itself, despite the fact that most of the menus in Segovia were printed in other languages due to the tremendous tourist traffic. They ended up paying more for the sandwiches and the “cappuccinos” they ordered than we did for our generous and delicious lunch.

Remember the Spanish take great price in their specialties and will help you if you need help knowing what dishes are typical of the region.

<B>Meson - Restaurante Jose Maria</B>
Cronista Lecea, 11 (Junto Plaza Mayor) Segovia
http://www.rtejosemaria.com/

That same Monday afternoon, we asked Azucena, one of the ladies working the desk at the Hotel Infanta Isabel, to make our reservations for dinner at the famed restaurant Jose Maria.

This was a much anticipated meal. In fact we had been bypassing the cochinillo (roast suckling pig) in Madrid in anticipation of this meal in Segovia. After a rest that afternoon, we prepared for our special evening and our 9 pm reservation, mercifully early in comparison to the late dinner hour in Madrid. Also unlike Madrid where some restaurants close Mondays, this was fairly busy. Here I did notice more Americans here than anywhere else, but also some Spaniards and tourists in general. The restaurant, which has been in operation since 1982, is fairly large with tables able to accommodate larger groups and more openly spaced for comfort. The walls were lined with wine bottles and there was a cozy but still elegant atmosphere. It was a very short five minute walk from the Hotel Infanta Isabel.

We were seated and presented with the menu which we studied earnestly. Who were we kidding? We were here for one thing, the roast suckling pig, Cochinillo Asado de Segovia. Now truth be told , DH & I know our roast pig. But this was not just roast pig, this was our first experience with suckling roast pig, from Segovia. And believe me there is a difference.

We ordered the ensalada del 2do Milenio. With that name I am sure it was a terrific salad But I must be honest, we don’t even remember. We were now motivated by one thing only, and our sense of taste and smell seemed out of control as our thoughts anticipated only what was to come; our delicious crispy roast piglet. I knew it should be good. But how good? After all, this place was so well known but I was still skeptical.

Our roast pig was carried in on a tray and presented near us on a separate carving table. Thankfully there were no exaggerated flourishes or parading about (how undignified) but nevertheless heads turned. Conversations stopped. Our piglet was ready. Roasted to a delicious looking reddish golden color, it smelled heavenly. It was quickly and expertly sliced by the waiter using the famous “plate cutting technique.” said to have originally happen by accident. The generous portion was then drizzled with a simple sauce consisting simply of the pig’s natural juices.
Falling off the bone, tender and succulent, it was delicious.
The wonderful skin, not heavy and greasy, but thin and crispy, more delicate than
I had tasted.. I was expecting less because of the simplicity of the method. After all, they do not marinate it in any combination of magical citrus. I did not see that it was smothered in garlic. It is simply season and cooked . But the flavor was so unique and different from any other pig we had tried, or made ourselves for that matter. We were told it was the quality of the pig itself that made the difference

Here is what we were told about the roasting method. The piglet cannot exceed three weeks old nor can it weigh more than a certain amount, 4-4.5 kilos. Then naturally the piglets must come from a certain superior stock. It is washed with cold water, dried and seasoned simply inside & out , then placed on top of small slats of wood inside a terra cotta cazuela or low pan suited for oven roasting. These wood pieces or slats keep the meat from sitting in any liquid that will be added or released by the roasting. It is roasted in a special oven at a temperature of 200 degrees. After one hour it is taken out, basted in some olive oil lightly and then more water is added carefully not to touch the actual roast. The pig continues to cook slowly and brown. It may require a protective foil on the ears and other areas so as to avoid burning. But the process may take ¾ to 1 hour or so and it is necessary to watch carefully to arrive at just the right golden brown color, and the right degree of doneness. It must be cooked thoroughly but juicy and tender. The skin must be crispy and crunchy. Indeed ours was just that. This was a wonderful meal.

I know we also had fresh crusty bread, a bottle of the house red wine Tinto Jose Maria, and bottled water. We also enjoyed wonderful deserts: DH had a delicious sorbete de limon al cava (lemon sobet with cava) and I had a sheep’s milk cheese (quesos de oveja) with membrillo (Quince paste). I just love this combination. The sorbete was superb too and DH thoroughly enjoyed it.

But the roast suckling pig was the undisputed star of the show that night.
Incidentally, the menu is quite varied and there are many other delicious sounding specialties on the website. http://www.rtejosemaria.com/
Next time we will surely try to dine here on more than one evening, as well as try the equally if not more famous cochinillo at Meson Candido, right next to the aqueduct. (There is some disagreement as to which is better for cochinillo)

In any case this was a night and a wonderful meal to remember.

Just FYI for those wanting to gage the budget, the dinner for two came to 89,187 euros including coffee and 1 bottle house wine.

We truly enjoyed our time in Segovia. I would suggest at the very least a full day if not an overnight to see this beautiful city.
Be sure to see at the very minimum the Aqueduct, the Cathedral and of course The Alcazar (castle).
Although the Alcazar has been a number of things besides the actual royal residence, and a fire years ago required some reconstruction of the interiors, we felt transported in time here. We enjoyed taking our time going room to room thinking about what it would have been like there during the different periods.

Following the pamphlets we got from the Alcazar office & the audio guides helped us better enjoy Alcazar, which we loved.
We always use audio guides as they really enhance the experience.
I suggest avoiding peak hours.
Try to arrive before opening to beat the buses of student groups from other areas of Spain, and France. These were just normal teens having good time in large groups with very few chaperones. But really it impacts your enjoyment and ability to see the castle in a calm & enjoyable way. They seem to start arriving at about 10:30 am. Afternoons may also be better but we went in the morning. I would allow a couple of hours there.

The Aqueduct built by the Romans was amazing. No mortar at all. It is something that we re visited during our many strolls. The photos of the Aqueduct do not do justice to the enormity of it.

It rained on and off during our days in Segovia province. The rain did keep the temperatures cooler but did keep us indoors when it was raining the hardest. Otherwise we happily strolled along with umbrellas shopping in the many small gift shops and the wonderful bakeries in additions to the sights. To me this would be the town to buy the little gift items for the folks back home. Lots and lots of knick knacks etc.
The rain was actually kind of romantic and gave a different feel from the unusually hot temperatures we initially experienced in Madrid.
We were grateful that we had thought to bring both clothing for warm weather and rain.

Following the recommendations from Maribel's guides and the pamphlets we got from the tourist office was also a big help.

The Cathedral was impressive. It was Huge! I believe only second to the cathedral in Sevilla in size (?) Each chapel was so different. We were able to wander here at our leisure and truly enjoyed it. The elaborate work here is something to see.
If you have the extra time go more than once. You will notice different things each time.

We experienced a very pleasant night's sleep at the Hotel Infanta Isabel. The hotel is quiet and the beds comfortable. The water pressure is good and the tubs large. We use their laundry services for a few items and were glad we did. The cost was reasonable. The maids were always asking if we needed anything like soap or towels. Overall a good place to stay. Again the location is right in the plaza so you could come and go easily, very convenient.
The best thing about it though was the amazing view of the Catedral and the Plaza Espana from our window. Breathtaking!

We also enjoyed a good breakfast there for 9 e each. It looks to be mainly breads and sweets, cakes etc, coffee and juice but you also have the option of eggs & bacon. They are included in the price but you must ask for them. (No one mentions it ) Once you get the hang of that it proves to be a great value and quite good.

<B>Segovia: Restaurante Narizotas</B>
Plaza de Medina Del Campo #1

We really enjoyed this interesting & less traditional restaurant in Segovia, which my DH refers to as "the nose place." The name itself "Narizotas" "big nose or big noses" is quirky too. I don't know the story but someone has a sense of humor. The guy with the big schnoz is on the sign & business cards.
We had a nice menu del dia here. The restaurant was lighter, more colorful and modern than the more traditional places. Decorated with original artwork it had a patio, upstairs and downstairs area, the feeling was younger, and more fun.

Tuesday's lunch was again a menu del dia 18E each for the two courses, plus a bottle of very good red wine and desert. The food reflected lighter more modern choices. The fish we selected was bacalao, but not the salty dish of my childhood made by my grandmother (which I actually like) This was also very good.
It was just right and we needed the change the day after our cochinillo fest. The bread here was especially good here. (Some of you are monitoring the extra cost of bread and olives etc in Spain. We found they are always included in menu del dia) The included desert was a combination of crepes with a creme inside topped with chocolate sauce. Dh had another sorbete de limon. Fresh & delicious contrast to all the heavy sweets. We had more deserts in the two weeks in Spain than in 6 months at home. Well ….they were included after all....

A mature and knowledgeable waiter served us, very attentive staff in general.
Our total bill for 2 people = E 34,13.
I would recommend for a change of pace or for something other than the traditional. www.narizotas.net A good option for a different meal in Segovia.

<B>La Granja De San Ildefonso</B>

On a Wednesday we left Segovia and headed La Granja de San Ildefonso. This castle was built by Philip V the grandson of Louis IV in a style to rival Versailles. It is certainly worth the short trip and something to see. We had not tired of the castles and wish we could have had time to see the other on the castle route, especially Coca. But it was raining pretty hard that day and we were concerned as we had never driven in Spain before. It turned out to be a piece of cake with great roads & highways.

Again I cannot emphasize enough the usefulness of the Maribel's guides for this sightseeing. She was right on so many times. She suggested to arrive first thing to La Granja, 10 am.

We lagged just a bit and arrived after 10:30 on that rainy Wednesday morning.
We loved the castle. Don't miss it. The gardens were beautiful and the castle itself beautiful & fascinating, despite the rain. DH & I were very much enjoying the castles and royal residences.

Avoid Wednesdays I was told it's a "free day" for European citizens & students. And heed Maribel's advice, get there early.

We lagged about 1/2 hour and got stuck at the La Grranja entrance for another 1/2 hour in a down pour, clogged with about a hundred wet, laughing, fun loving but boisterous teenagers with umbrellas, and another large group of Spanish seniors waiting to get in.

Everyone, got soaked . We aren't complaining really it one of those crazy but fun experiences we'll always remember. Even the staff was giddy, rolling their eyes smiling & and shaking their heads at the craziness of it all.
All in all recommend to go there. The gift shop too.
http://www.patrimonionacional.es/granja/granja.htm


<B>Pedraza de la Sierra</B>

The city of Pedraza is a short very pleasant drive from Segovia (About 1 hour for us since we did not know the area but I would say 1/2 hour or 45 minutes drive from Segovia in general.)

When we arrived after the experience at La Granja we saw a beautiful mid evil town appearing to be frozen in time. Today it still retains it's character & charm with cobblestone streets, very old buildings (even the new ones are done to stay within the original look of the town) and it's own castle.

It is surrounded by mountains, greenery, and wildlife. We even saw Scrunchy's "Storky" & his spouse many times (they mate for life we were told)

Maribel described Pedraza as "sleepy" during the week and that it was indeed. Restful and relaxing, we took advantage of the beautiful surroundings to savor the last days in Spain before returning to the real world back in California.

We arrived at the hotel Hospederia de Santo Domingo on Wednesday to find we were the only guests in the hotel. We did not mind at all and will go into more detail soon about the stay here and the conclusion of the trip. I am anxious to get to the meal at Yantar and in particular Restaurante Codex Coalitions (Now closed).

We had room 31 which was great and just upstairs from Scrunchy's but with a real "bird's eye view" of the stork nest. Any closer & we would be in there with them!

I want you all to see this lovely place.
http://www.hospederiadesantodomingo.com/

and

http://www.pedraza.info/


<B>El Yantar De Pedraza</B>
Horno de Asar
http://web.elyantardepedraza.com:8117/
www.elyantardepedraza.com

We learned of the retaurante Yantar through Scrunchy's great trip report last May. In fact we had never heard of Pedraza but subsequently read about it in Maribel's guides and decided it sounded like the perfect place to wind down at the end of our trip.

Pedraza was reported to be pretty deserted during the week. Still, following our pal Ekscrunchy's lead, I called to reserve a balcony table far in advance. They asked if we would be having the cordero lechal and of course we said yes! I worried that perhaps we should have asked for an extra just in case they were very small (but we didn’t) As it happened we had lunch at Yantar twice, once a simple light (ha!) lunch on Thursday of garlic soup Sopa de ajo, croquetas de jamon iberico (really fabulous croquetas there) Pimientos asados a good red Glorioso Crianza.

But the grand finale came on Friday afternoon was the famed cordero lechal de Yantar.

El Yantar is one of the many hornos de asar found in the province of Segovia. It's specialty: oven roasted meats, specifically the local cordero lechal (roast suckling lamb), as well as Cochinillo (roast baby pig). Yantar is also recommended by Maribel and our own Scrunchita. Yantar is only open for lunch approx 1:45 - 4:30 and closed Monday.

In the glory days of Pedraza it's primary business was that of wool. Years later, the lamb here is still reputed to be superb & possibly the best, although there is certainly competition from Sacremenia, Sepulveda,Riaza, and other as areas in Segovia province. These animals are raised locally by families that have made their living this way for years and they take great pride in the expertise passed down through generations. (I ran across an interesting website of association of Asadores and similar organizations.) There are very specific methods and stipulations that must be followed, the most important being the fact that the lamb should not be more than 30 days old and still at the "suckling" stage. The mothers' milk is said to be fortified by her diet of local rosemary and lavender thus giving the baby lamb a special flavor like no other.

I am getting really hungry now as I recall that delicious lunch so I guess I will just go ahead and jump out of sequence to now share it with you.

We arrived for our Friday reservation at Yantar at 1:30 (early) and were seated at the narrow balcony shared by about four other tables. Although this is a fairly casual restaurant where only lunch is served, they have nevertheless crisp white table cloths and napkins, as do most of the restaurants in Spain. Our waitress, Goya (Gregoria) already knew we were really looking forward to this special lunch. We happened to hit it off right away because we resembled each other. I knew this from seeing her photo on the website (she is standing in front of an oven )and I told her she looked like a younger sister (yes I really DO look very much like her, only older by a few years. She told us she had worked there for many years and had recently moved to a neighboring town when she married and now had a 7 year old daughter. What a home cook that woman must be!
It was obvious she loved working there. She was just beaming when she brought our 1st platter of HUGE fat white asparagus with mayonesa on the side. (An extra asparagus for us she quietly told me with a wink) We were appreciative and in a flash it disappeared. The asparagus was delicious. We enjoyed this so often in Spain and made a note to try and find more fresh asparagus at the local farmer’s markets. But these were enormous.

We ordered a Tempranillo, & a fresh green salad of iceberg lettuce and really good tomatoes in a simple oil & vinegar, accompanied by a basket of wonderful round crust bread. As we sat on the balcony drinking wine and overlooking the Plaza Mayor we remarked that it really didn’t get better than this. So quiet and peaceful. But it did get better….

The baby lamb arrived hot and fragrant in a terra cotta casseroles. Indeed, as we had read, it looked like a plate of bones. But when we tasted it, what flavor!. So good and juicy, the lamb taste was very distinctive but much less gamy tasting and more delicate in flavor. We both love lamb btw, but this was a better more refined taste. The crispy skin just as described in Scrunchy’s eloquent thread. I ate every last succulent “masita” of lamb and every last morsel of that crunchy skin. You can bet we also mopped up the juices with the crusty bread.

The wonderful leisurely meal was topped off with a cheesecake for DH. I cannot recall the name of the desert I had. I know it was recommended by Goya with a delicious extra rich ice cream mixed with creme (?) and some sort and fruit, but I was long gone sugar gaga by then and also in a stupor caused by the cordero lechal. But it was heavenly. When Goya offered the after meal digestif “chupito” on the house I quietly explained that we needed to watch and not overdo the sugar intake. (I was afraid I would offend her but this is true DH is diabetic) She was so concerned that she immediately brought the two cafes out on the house instead. I must say that the café solo was one of the things I enjoyed the most about Spain, the lingering and the savoring of the meal and the of the coffee instead of the rushing off.

The meal was marvelous. Before we left we were offered a peek at the roasting ovens and the giant meat locker with the little lambs. How fortunate they are to have all this fresh local meat and produce available. As I mentioned earlier in this report, the freshest tasting foods should be just as easy for us to obtain in our home town in sunny southern California. It somehow is not the same. But DH is determined to make the pig oven in the near future. As for me, I’d simply prefer to simply return to Yantar as soon as possible.

Just in case you missed the link. http://web.elyantardepedraza.com:8117/

<B>Hospederia de Santo Domingo</B>
http://www.hospederiadesantodomingo.com/
is a small lovely hotel with only 17 rooms located in the old Jewish quarter of Pedraza. It is located 35 km from Segovia, 120km from Madrid and approx 115 from Barajas airport.

The hotel proved to be the perfect place to relax. Though the small building is said to be 300 years old, it is COMPLETELY renovated and in fact has more of a modern feel than any of the hotels we stayed in . We gladly paid 100E per night and 12E for breakfast.
As I mentioned we were there mid week and actually had the entire place to ourselves It was extremely quiet and peaceful. If your are looking for excitement go on the weekend but always book ahead as it’s very popular then. Our room #31 was tastefully decorated and practically identical to one on the website with the two mirrors. The room had a modern bathroom, nice sized “cama matrimonial“, minibar and a lovely small balcony with a killer view overlooking the Gaudarrama mountains. During our somewhat rainy stay in May, the view of the surrounding area in Pedraza was breathtaking ..so lush and green. Best of all, only a short distance away from our balcony stood a stork’s nest on top of a pillar. We sat on our little balcony watching the pair of storks come & go, many times making this unusual clacking sound like two planks beating together (the sounds were not disturbing nor loud) Other storks circled the area as the town had quite a few nests. We were told they mate for life and found ourselves fascinated by them. I was always checking on them to see if they were there or not. They really added to the whole peaceful experience.

Pedraza Shopping

The lovely mid evil town of Pedraza is quite small. As Maribel said in her indispensable guides even “sleepy” midweek. It may be too quiet for some tourists looking for action but not for us. It appears it is a very popular place to hold weddings, due to the natural beauty of the surrounding area and the fact that there are several restaurants and hornos de asar able to accommodate wedding parties. What a dream it would be to have a wedding or reunion catered by one of these fabulous places specializing in roasting local meats, the suckling lamb, pig or other game.

Pedraza’s long history peaks in the 17th century when it was sustained by the wool trade. Now it seems to be primarily a tourist destination although really on it’s own terms and with out the tackiness of the large cities. Be aware that like most areas they adhere pretty strictly to the siesta closing hours of 1 to 4. Because we were there mid week, and because we experienced some days of very heavy rain, some of the shops remained closed. We did get to stroll through several that remained open however. We purchased a pretty hand crafted serving plate made of tin at a shop called Estanos de Pedraza where we say many beautiful and unique decorative items. The owner told us that Pedraza is also known for this type of metal working and the craftsmanship is famous in the area.

We also stopped at a couple of the small local food shops La Tajona de Pedrazda and Atlantar where we purchased delicious cheese, a bag of the famous Arroz Bomba the special round short grain rice and some other snacks.
At La Tajona we also purchased a bottle of a honey colored liquor of orange and cinnamon which we have yet to open. Called Orujo it is made with naranja (orange ) y canela (Cinnamon) and shows 40%) For more info on Orujo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orujo. Great stuff I’m sure.

Interestingly the Orujo bottle shows a website of the company La Cuna, located in Toledo http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orujo.

We did get to browse some of the shops despite the weather. Unfortunately we did not get to see the shop Sanchez Munoz known for original paintings and. Art. The owner was in Madrid for a few days. I would definitely stop in there in the future.

Back at our lovely hotel we had the luxury of relaxing in the little sitting area/library knowing we were the only guests. Needless to say the entire staff, especially Lourdes who was there for most of our stay but also Belen and Estrella and Jose were charming, very attentive and really informative They even provided a tray of fresh fruits, cheeses and refrescos for us to enjoy one rainy afternoon along with the generous breakfast. This hotel was by far the best of our stay and we would not hesitate to return.


One afternoon at the hotel Estrella appeared with the fruit & cheese tray & we sat overlooking the terrace watching the storks in the rain . Suddenly it began to hail!
Huge chunks of hail. Amazingly a short time later the weather was back to normal just a comfortable temperature of approx 65 degrees.

<B>Castillo Y Museo Zuloaga</B>

Pedraza was declared a historical city in 1951 and has a number of interesting sights mostly open on the weekend..
Not closed however during our weekday stay was the very interesting castle Castillo Y Museo Zuloaga The castle was built in the most secure and protected area of Pedraza in XIII and later reinforced in XVI. It was used for various reasons by royalty of Castilla. It was reportedly in ruins and abandoned when it was acquired in 1926 by the painter Ignacio Zuloaga. For information on Zuloaga : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ignacio_Zuloaga
We were told the heirs of Zuloaga still reside in part of the castle and technically own and operate through a foundation as a small private museum.
It also has a very interesting (but somewhat tricky) website.
Supposedly the love affair of the beautiful Dona Elvira and a monk Roberto took place there. Check out the romantic story on the Castle website…. http://www.ignaciozuloaga.com/index-home.htm

We arrived at 11am hoping to see the castle on a Thursday. Seeing that it was closed however we set about exploring it from the exterior. The fact that there was no security on the exterior grounds made it easy as we wandered about looking at the castle and the magnificent view of the mountains from it‘s perch. At about 11:45 a car arrived and out came the caretaker accompanied by his adorable toddler son. Not realizing that the tour usually was for groups, we asked if he would show us the museum. He very graciously obliged. I can’t remember the cost but it was minimal.

The inside of the castle grounds had a courtyard and even something that seemed like a stage made of stone. The website reports that it is here that the yearly July Concerts of the Candles “Conceiertos de las Velas“ takes place. Imagine wouldn’t you just love to experience a classical concert there in a mid evil castle illuminated by thousands of candles?

We were shown the little room that houses four or five beautiful paintings. I expressed surprise at seeing these lovely painting in such an isolated place and was assured by the caretaker that the room is temperature controlled (?)
I wish I had taken notes. I am ashamed to say I can’t remember exactly who the artists were in this small museum. I thought there was “Murillo- esque” painting of Christ, ( Can’t be true? ...but the brochure we obtained later states that they sometimes rotate a Goya and an El Greco through this museum!) There was also a portrait of a Gypsy woman and a gorgeous nude. I was dumbfounded at this tiny but priceless treasure trove. I would love to come back here again to see them and for there Concierto de Las Velas.

Pedraza also holds the Fiestas Patronales in honor of the patron saints of Pedraza La Virgen del Carrascal from approx from the 7’th to the 12th of September.
For more information on Pedraza http://www.pedraza.info/

<B>Los Cuatro Muleros</B>

After a very enjoyable visit to the Pedraza castle Zuloaga DH & I headed down one of the main streets. Approaching us was a very lively group of senior citizens from Madrid on their way to tour the same castle. One of the ladies explained that they frequently travel on bus from Madrid to get away from the city.
They were so animated and fun! The next thing we knew we were all singing and clapping along to her rendition of the song “Cuatro Muleros” right there on the street! .

Here’s a sample of the song she was singing (Los Cuatro Muleros, also by Garcia Lorca)
http://music.yahoo.com/track/16185625


<B>Codex Calixtinus Comedor Solariego (Now closed ) </B>

Codex Calixtinus is an absolutely marvelous restaurant in Canicosa, Segovia. We first heard about it here on this very forum from Robert and also the Maribel's Guides. This is a Michelin and Campsa rated establishment. Although we had fallen in love (lust)with the traditional dishes of the region, it was exciting to learn that Codex specializes in an alternative approach rather than the conventional specialties typical of the Segovia province. Articles about the restaurant reference it as being of the Martín Berasategui school.

After finding the website I e- mailed the gracious chef (and owner I believe) Juan Manuel Pretel about reservations. Juan’s response was prompt & gracious. “Happy to accommodate you at any hour you wish to dine” was his reply. So in spite of the rain and threat of another hail storm (and our lack of direction) we decided to drive to Canicosa from our comfy and now familiar hotel in Pedraza de la Sierra.

As it happens the restaurant was just a very short drive away, barely ten minutes. The town of Canicosa where Codex Clixtinus is located, was only about 4.5 km away, my guess is that a local would make it with time to spare. We were very happy that we decided to have dinner there and would recommend it as a must do for anyone who appreciates great food and wine.

The meal was absolutely splendid.
The amuse buche was delicious, a bite size appetizer made of bits of rabbit and caramelized onion (confit?) What a flavorful morsel that was. DH started with foie macerado en oporto (wonderful foie made w/ port) I ordered ensalada de cordoniz escabechada (pickled quail salad) We both ordered the seasonal specialty Lomos de Cievo (Loin of deer/venison) Medium rare, tender, juicy and very subtle flavor. Not gamy. Wonderful! A nice bottle of Tarsus Reserva 2000.
Crusty bread, very good. For dessert, DH ordered a Terrina de Cacao y Chocolate, a chocolate concoction that was delicious. I ordered the Tarta de Arroz con Leche. This is not the typical creamy but heavier rice pudding that I admit to loving. The Spanish have elevated rice pudding to an art. Here it was a heavenly soufflé-light dessert that was luscious and satisfying without being cloying.

We agreed it was perfect.

Mari, our waitress was attentive yet unobtrusive. (She was Romanian I believe and spoke flawless Spanish.) The restaurant itself was in an old building, elegant and earthy at the same time. Romantically lit, soft music, really lovely overall. Thinking of proposing to someone ? This is the place to do it, get a table in front of the stone fireplace.

This was a special evening and a terrific meal. We loved it. We were the only people in the restaurant on a Thursday. We felt like royalty ourselves. We were told that like Pedraza, Codex comes alive on the weekends. For us it was just perfect the way it was.

Meal at Codex = $ 129.72E
(Sadly Cidex is no longer open for business as of 2009)


<B>At Last! The Final installment </B>

It was Saturday morning and we left Pedraza de la Sierra with reluctance, but knowing we would return. probably during the Fiestas or for the Concietos de las Velas) We packed up the car the night before to get an early start at 6:00 am, said our goodbys to Storky & his mate & took off. The drive was easy & we arrived at Barajas airport in plenty of time. The flight back on Lufthansa was par for the course. Sardine time, only this time a nice little group of 6 toddlers in the two rows in front of us that kept running around like crazy in & out of the restrooms for 9 of the 10 hours. Their parents slept for the most part, amazingly. They would get tired and then have another Toblerone candy bar provided by the airline and get all wound up again. Anyway they were cute little kids despite the havoc. I spent a good deal of the time trying to stretch my legs as did DH. That also allowed me to meet & greet most of the "walkers" on the plane.
Upon landing we heard a brief announcement from the captain: we would have a passport check immediately upon exiting the plane before approaching customs. "Great!" we thought, they must be trying to expedite things, "wonderful!"
German efficiency! I forgave them for the bad macaroni on the flight.

As I watched the line of passengers filing off the plane each one presented their documents to an impressive pair of officers in uniform from the LAPD airport police. When It was my turn I was so grateful and so happy to finally be on my way. But not yet. "Please come with us"
they said. All eyes on me, shocked faces (how could this friendly woman be the "one" they wanted?) As I was escorted by the two big burley officers I could hear the comments and see the surprised looks.

It appears I have the identical name to a woman wanted for some major offense. I was told she was not wanted for the worst possible offense (thank God for small favors) but really up there on the bad list. When I asked what she had done I was informed that they could not say, but was I absolutely sure I had never been to Argentina??? No I replied "Are you sure?" " No, not ever."

I realized at that moment I would likely never experience a truly good steak since it looked like my traveling to Argentina in the future would involve a complicated re-entry into the USA. I later learned she the other Ana Maria, was a felon or something worse, similar in age and had exactly the same name as I. Although I was not allowed to know the details, the officer proceeded to tell me she might just be the #2 biggest connection to Argentina in the USA. I speculated. Drugs? Money laundering? White tennis shoes? Anyone's guess but they kept telling me it was confidential & then proceeded to ask more reveling questions. I must say they were handsome. Wish I had thought to have DH snap a few photos for the album. Thankfully he was a good sport about the whole ordeal. What a guy.

After about an hour 1/2 of waiting in the airport customs area we were released with a smile and an apology, plus an explanation that this would likely happen again for ever and ever. Ahh.. the price we pay for adventure ..

This time no Jamon Iberico in my bag the little dog just passed me by, and we headed for the 405 freeway tired but with the happiest memories of our Spain vacation. We absolutely loved Pedraza and our cordero lechal and Codex and rice pudding. And I couldn't wait to get to Fodors and tell Scrunchita and you guys about Storky..I will try to post photos.

</BPhoto Show (long)</B>
Madrid, Segovia & Pedraza de la Sierra
(I hope this works )

http://www.photoshow.net/watch/nV4Zx9ca

yk

Lovely report, amsdon! Thanks for all the details.

amsdon

I have been meaning to post it on the new site with all the trip reports,

I just couldn't sleep last night sooo.

Maribel

Wow, amsdon!
What a pleasure to read this great report, now all in one fine installment. Sure brought back memories. Nice job!
But hope you finally got some sleep!!

ekscrunchy

Amsdon, you are too kind.

And, in a word, about this one-piece report: MARAVILLOSA!!

amsdon

Hi Hurok girls! Nope I am waiting for my medical tests & they have a computer here in the waiting room! How luck!

screen_name_taken

amsdon, you are one of the posters whose (sp?) report inspired my trip to Pedraza this past April, and THANK YOU!!! What an amazing town, we even spent time in "jail" ... loved it!

Don't feel that your ordeal at LAX needs to repeat forever and ever. I went through the same nonsense too many times, but finally resolved it. After being too lazy to follow up the first time "they" said "please come with me", and experiencing the same ordeal each and every time I came back from abroad the last 2 years, I finally decided to follow the recommendation at the bottom of the Homeland security flyer they gave me - I wrote to HS, gave them any and all personal information I could think of (full name at birth, married name, date of birth, place of birth, SSN, etc) also included a copy of my passport, and asked them what steps I should take to remove my name from the list. IT WORKED! I got a letter back something like 6 months later. I carry that letter with me every time I travel (just in case ...), but have not been stopped again. Instead, they check my fingerprints right at the Immigration desk, and I'm free to go retrieve my luggage No more panic, or strange looks from everyone else waiting on line. Ugh! made me feel like a criminal ... not pleasant.

amsdon

Hi Screen name taken, I am returning in Oct and I will see about getting that done asap. That would be fantastic! I appreciate the tips

And so glad you like Pedraza.

screen_name_taken

Loved Pedraza!

Forgot to ask, do you have that flyer?
I wrote to:
Chief
Systems Liason and Procedure Division
Visa Office
U.S. Department of State
Washington, DC 20522-0113

I don't mean to push you into doing this, I just know how thoroughly frustrated I was every time I came back home. It took away some of the fun of traveling ...

screen_name_taken

btw, my name is Carolina.
A pleasure to meet you, Ana Maria!

amsdon

Likewise Carolina, no on the contary, it is greatly appreciated!

screen_name_taken

Good luck, or Buena suerte ... whichever you prefer

lincasanova

great report!