Enjoying your report. Looking forward to more!

Denise...wow, you are quick, starting your trip report so soon after returning. Now I can keep up with it while I'm in France during the next couple weeks!

So glad you have started the report. I have enjoyed your previous thread on getting ready to depart. Will wait patiently for my Paris fix.

Ssssssss, in your behalf!

Great beginning, thanks.

Am stressing over the bag even though you are home now.

I hope you bought some kir for the Kir apartment!

The only good thing about a trip starting out badly is that you know it HAS to get better.

Looking forward to more...

Great start! Thank you!

Your bag story made me think about our first trip to France on a direct flight from Vancouver to Paris. Naively, we thought, "No worries! What could happen to our suitcases?" Well, one bag landed when we did & the other one was tracked down still in Vancouver days later! Oh, dear!

Hope there's a happy ending for Chaz's bag!

Denisea: I'm with you every step! Great, so far, and keep it up. I don't know how I'm getting any work done, with these evocative Paris trip reports coming in .... oh well, this is more fun!

I feel your pain! We had 2 lost suitcases enroute to Provence. The outfit I was wearing seemed perfect for Normandy on an earlier trip. In Provence, I looked like an ex-nun. Any good Catholic school girl knows that look....not particularly stylish!!

I can't wait for more. The title of your report is the best!

Enjoying your trip report, esp. the food descriptions - is it lunch time yet? Would you mind adding a link to the apartment as I have not read your earlier posts.

Now for the AF / Delta alliance - yes SSSSSS and GRRRRRR. We are also Delta Medallion and fly out of Atlanta where there are quite a few daily flights to CDG. Recently we returned to Atl on AF - somehow they managed to lose our reserved seats - the systems did not "communicate" we were told by the "lovely" AF folks at CDG. HMMMMMM - they "communicated" that we were on the flight, they "communicated" our payment?! but not our seats so of course we went from a decent two seat window / aisle near the front to the back of the plane 5 middle seat purgatory configuration. And of course they ran out of the decent entree and on a 10 hour flight we were offered the most disgusting (and isn't that saying alot) pasta with white sauce entree with a side of cold pasta salad.
Fortunately the flight attendant responded to the near hysterical glint in my eyes with an extra bottle of wine.

This is the beginning of another great trip report by Denisea!!!...I wait for news about Saint Denis and Un dimanche a Paris;as both are on my list for a long stay in paris next year(1 month with some day trips).Please continue!!!

Oops....I really meant a nun after they no longer wore habits....I do not want to offend any ex-nuns out there!!

suec1...I think I had that horrible pasta on the way home. Air France is truly a frustrating entity and the alliance is certainly not for the passenger, is it?

The link for the Kir:

http://www.parisperfect.com/apartments-for-rent-in-paris/kir.php

YankyGal....does it have to get better? Could it get worse? More to come.

After following you to your day of departure (one week countdown to Paris) and also on joan's(Oct-Dec-Paris) thread, it's nice to see you start your TR so quickly.

The lost luggage thing is such a bummer, especially since you should have been able to carry it on. We've lost luggage several times, so if we do check, which isn't often, we always mix our stuff. I have never thought of mixing our stuff in the carry-ons. We may do so in the future. At least we'd have a few things to work with.

Will be watching for the rest of your TR to see how you liked apartment life and hear all the wonderful experiences that you had in Paris.

Bookmarking to enjoy later.

Girl, you are quick on the trip report! Gosh, your trip has to pick up after your beginnings. Or does it? !

Keep it coming!

these potatoes (a little like hash browns but richer and soooo good)

pommes sarladaises, probably.

Oooh, hoping it doesn't get worse. Looking forward to hearing about the rest of the week.

suec1 - we had the awful pasta dishes returning in October. What's up with that? Surely AF can afford to offer better than that. I always used to order a special meal, and will try to remember to do that next time.

Ahhh, thanks Michael. Pommes sarladaises, tres bien!

Denisea, sorry about all your hassles in travel! As we always say as we're preparing to travel, "Pack Your Patience!" and you really needed it. Glad that you were able to re-group and enjoy your trip. We're amazed that you have already begun a report, and will eagerly follow each chapter. Thanks so much for your generous sharing of info. Your apartment in the 7th sounds wonderful, and has us second guessing about our hotel in the 6th. Oh well! There's always a next time.

tomarkot, preferences vary quite a bit. We prefer the 6th to the 7th so don't feel bad about your hotel. We've had 20+ awesome Paris visits staying in apartments and hotels all over the city and really cannot complain about any. All areas of Paris have pluses and negatives and any location allows one to savr whatever that area has to offer.
denisea, following closely and hoping your problems are quickly resolved and you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!

tomarkot....no worries! We LOVE the 6th and you will see that we hang out in our old 'hood there quite a bit on this trip. No need to second guess. I am still not sure which I prefer and it is harder to compare since this was our first time in an apartment. I agree with Judy....don't give it another thought!

Thanks to Denisea and Judy for your positive confirmation regarding our hotel choice in the 6th. We're profitting from lots of your good info.

Officially "pommes de terre sarladaises" so as not to confuse them with apples.

“He who does not travel does not know the value of men”….Moorish proverb

Day 2 of our Thanksgiving holiday in Paris

We didn’t get up too early this morning. Chaz is in love with the Neospresso espresso maker in the Kir! Simple to use and great coffee. Now, if you remember from last year, Chaz MUST go to Starbucks every day. (Hence, last year’s nickname, Mr. Starbucks). We had one conveniently located right by the hotel last year (to my dismay). This year, there was one not too far, but I will let you in on one thing now, he never went to Starbucks! He enjoyed making his coffee everyday with the magical device! Can you believe it? He would make it and sit by the window and enjoy our little view of Paris before heading out.

Scraping enough euro coins to buy single tickets for the RER train to St Michel. Line forming behind us...orry, sorry!! Flustered and used the wrong entrance. At platform, I realized we are going to be going the wrong way. First day “stupid attack”! Maybe I should have stopped for a pastry! Chaz had seen the other entrance, so out and back in and the tickets still worked fortunately!

RER C train to St Michel and on to Ste Chappelle. The line doesn’t look too bad. Got in the wrong one at first. But, the first day” stupids” are wearing off and I realize it quickly (since we were not going to court). Over to the right security line, very short wait, through security and over to buy tickets. No line at all, so we bought our Paris Museum Pass (which I ordinarily would have bought somewhere else the day before). One of the great things about going to Paris in November…short lines, if any! If I hadn’t already been hearing the angels sing, in my own head, of course because of the easy way in…well I really heard them upon walking into Sainte Chapelle.

Did I mention it was sunny? Oh, my God. This is spectacular. The stained glass is just incredible. The intricacies of the carvings and the glass. This is very ornate. I can only imagine how wonderful it must be to hear a concert at Sainte Chapelle.

If you have never been, you simply must do so. I think it could have been even more beautiful later when the sun was higher in the sky. How is something like this even possible? I really am in awe and so very glad to have finally made it here. It is a small place but truly inspiring. No snakes here.

Now, don’t think we weren’t talking about the bag though, while walking to St Germain to visit the old ‘hood. I am getting hungry for breakfast. Chaz has a plan. His favorite meal from last trip was at Le Comptoir in the 6th. The beef cheeks and come to think of it, it was my meal! But they really are to die for.

The plan is hatched. No reservations for lunch at Le Comptoir but it opens at noon. We will see what the line looks like and try to get in. We will have petit dejeuner at Danton then shop a bit, visit the old haunts and see if we can get in to Le Comptoir for the holy grail of Paris meals.
We walk down rue St Andre des Arts. And then I see it…the little side street (Cour de Commerce St Andre) where Un Dimanche a Paris is! We check it out. It is beautiful place with a restaurant attached. Maybe it is the adult, French version of being in Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory. Everything in the case is beautiful! The tarts, the macarons, the chocolats, everything. Thanks Lillia! We will back later to purchase.

The street spits us out on Blvd St Germain across from Danton. It draws us like a magnet and we run over to Danton for petit dejeuner. Danton was our little hangout last year and we feel comfortable there. I love that fresh squeezed orange juice. I don’t drink juice at home, at all. But it hits the spot and Chaz got a coffee fix, so we headed over to St Sulpice. The fountains were pretty in the sun but the Christmas market was not up yet. A little more window shopping and then it was time to check the queue outside Le Comptoir.

Maybe 15-16 people in line! We will get in. So, we wait about 15 minutes and get one of the last tables inside (although later we wished we were sitting outside). It is super cramped in Le Comptoir. And sadly, we recognized the server we had on our first visit last year (Madame Lent I have nicknamed her). Not a personable girl and she gives new meaning to disinterested and well, rude. Think Lilith from Cheers, and you know what we mean. Looks and demeanor. We knew we were in for a wait, but if they have the beef cheeks, well we can endure this chick again.

And wait, we did! For everything…to order, for our wine which sat on “le comptoir” for-ever, for carafe d’eau, wait, wait, wait. In fact, it is almost amusing. We found it funny to watch how many times she walked past our wine without getting it. She is powerful, non? We had to reassure the poor Japanese girls seated next to us, that it wasn’t them and that she treats everyone like this and that they would eventually be allowed to order. You could see the frustration and confusion on their faces as they foolishly tried to get Madame’s attention.

Well, we did get those beef cheeks…the food comes out fast here despite Madame Lent. I had roast chicken and mashed potatoes and Chaz, the coveted beef cheeks. I had hoped for their lobster bisque, but not this time. The food was terrific and the service, whatever.

I had to go through this because I would be dragging Chaz to another church that was 13 Metro stops away. Not that I mind, but you ask for things when the other person has gotten what they want and are happy.

And so we were off to St. Denis at long last. The metro was packed! When we emerged it was definitely a different side of Paris. Still sunny and the sound of Caribbean/African music made us think we had taken the Metro to the islands.
But we rounded the corner to the lovely church and resting place of French kings.

It’s a marvelous church and the sun really shone through the stained glass. We used our museum passes to enter the crypt section of the church. All the effigies throughout the crypt are like a history lesson. As an American, I am always amazed to see dating on things from the 1100s. We just don’t have that kind of history here. We encountered a very boisterous field trip while there. No way to get kids that young to be quiet and reserved. Chaz decided to have a little fun with me and “locked” me in one of the downstairs crypts. Somewhere, there’s a photo. I especially wanted to see the site for Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI. I read a great biography on her before last year’s trip and there was a photo of it included. The book had mentioned that the clothing had been updated to what was current then and not what she would have worn. I was more noticing the amazing Wonderbra they must have envisioned her in. She is popping out of her top. A Victoria's Secret model would be proud! We both thoroughly enjoyed our time at St Denis and were glad we made a point to go on this trip.

We had such a fun day. So, back to the Kir to check on that missing bag. Would there be any news at all? I could hear the snakes hissing as I dialed the number. But, I was hopeful. I entered the claim number. “I am sorry, our system does not recognize the number you entered, please enter a valid number”. Sssssssssssssss! I trudged through all the prompts to get a live agent. We spoke and he checked on it. "Yes, ma’am. It was set to be delivered between 10am -2pm today". It was 4pm. Where? He had the right address (which was a cleaners on rue St Dominique, set up by the PP office since they are open and someone is always there). Apparently, they spoke to PP the day before and let them know the bag had been found and that it would be delivered today. PP had left us a voice mail at the apartment but never told us in our orientation that we even HAD voice mail in the apartment.

We hurried over to the cleaners, afraid it was all a joke. I opened the door and there it was. The bag is here, it’s really here. We thanked the owner of the cleaners profusely. And on the way home, I saw the perfect way to celebrate. A fresh strawberry tart. It was so very good and is one of my favorite things to have from a French bakery. That crust! That pastry cream! Those strawberries! So simple and so darn good. The bag is here, it’s really here. AND, everything was still inside it. All’s well that ends well (not really, I still have it in for AF and they will hear from me).

We rested up, cleaned up and headed over to the Fleurie apartment to see Joan. We had some wine and got the tour of the apartment. Very spacious and very nice. I could live there. We could ALL live there. We all had a laugh over us having to go back to the little Kir after seeing the Fleurie. Joan also will always have a special place in Chaz’ heart, as she gave him all of her dark coffee pods for the coffee machine.

We walked to Le Florimond for dinner and were greeted by Florent, who is so fun, upbeat and welcoming. The restaurant is charming and I started with the pumpkin veloute. Chaz let Florent choose his meal and he started with a salad of oranges, greens and salmon. He loved it and Joan and I thought it looked so refreshing. Joan had lobster ravioli.

Our main courses were risotto with langoustines and some squid ink (Joan and me) and rabbit with carrot puree and roasted parsnips for Chaz. They were both really good but I think the jet lag caught up with me and I eat very little when really tired. I hate that in France because they are always afraid you don’t like it if you don’t finish. We still had dessert. Joan and I were in cahoots over the millefeuille for Chaz. It is HUGE. Not really traditional but it is tons of puff pastry with mountains of Chantilly!! Just for good measure, we also got the assortment of desserts that had small servings of about 10 things! Seriously.
Here is what the selection included (to best of my memory): pannacotta with passion fruit, a citrus sorbet, two little chocolate cakes, some sort of deep chocolate disc with a sesame tuille atop it, a whipped fromage blanc, some sort of banana paste, a green crème brulee, a slice of a frozen nougat and a mousse (not sure what). The sorbet and fromage blanc were my favs! We had a marvelous time, walked back and said goodnight to Joan.

The end of a great day in Paris. The end of the snake bites? You’ll have to read on to sssssee.

Wednesday’s plan: Climbing the towers at Notre Dame, L’Orangerie museum and L’Orangerie restaurant on Ile St Louis for lunch, plus dinner at Reed.

Not that I mind, but you ask for things when the other person has gotten what they want and are happy.
_________________

That was true for DH and me. If either of us had desire to see a particular place, it was just wise to go there first.

Loving your report. That first view of Ste. Chappelle remains in my heart. The nondescript first level and then POW!

And aren't Paris Museum Passes great? My only objection was we were in Paris for three full days and had to buy the pass for either 2 or 4 days...oh well. It was great to zip into all the sights, even Versailles.

The pass doesn't include the Eiffel Tower, so I had pre-booked a "Behind the Scenes" tour, which allowed us to bypass the line there as well. Pretty great. Interested to hear the rest of your report.

That fresh squeezed orange juice-----I never drink it at home either, but each morning in Paris MDH would head off to get baguettes, pastry and then to another shop on Ile St. Louis for that F.S.O.J. The shop had a big machine where the oranges would clunk around and pour the tasty juice into a carafe. Memories.......

St. Chapelle-----I must ask if anyone knows the quote that says something like "Oh, to stand in the light of St. Chapelle?" I read it somewhere and always think of it when I am there or read about St. Chapelle.

You are definitely brightening up these cold gray days with your excellent details of Paris.

I almost hate reading good trip reports like this! They mess up my entire day with thoughts of the next trip to Paris!

Great trip report!

Fromage blanc is one of my favorite things in the world (fromage blanc ice cream is pretty good, too).

Wow, no Starbucks for Chaz. So does that mean you didn't need your Coca Light with ice?

Great report, and I agree with apersuader65 - there goes my day!

TPAYT, I googled the quote and it linked to Trip Advisor review. There may have been others but I just looked quickly.

Sigh.

I saw a concert at Ste. Chappelle about three weeks ago. It was amazing. A string quartet playing Mozart, Beethoven, you name it. Since the windows are not lit at night, you then concentrate on all of the other amazing features of the chapel. The detailed paint and tiles, the statues and of course the sounds echoing through the place. I highly recommend it to anyone.

Your story of Madame Lent made me think of the "Curb Your Enthusiasm" episode from this past season where Larry tires of a slow waiter and goes and gets his food from the counter...

Enjoying your travelogue immenssssssely. ;^)

Denisea, we're continuing to enjoy your report, and were very interested in the the finale of your lost luggage saga. What an inconvenience and waste of precious time!

We're intending to visit St. Denis, and were wondering if there were some nice restaurants in the area to have lunch?

YankyGal...I had less Coke Light than usual and only had ice with it when brought in cafes! I never even bothered to look for the ice trays in the apartment. I will say that it tastes like Coke Zero to me. I did have one bottle of DC with me that I bought in the ATL airport that I made last for a few days. I did not horrify anyone by ordering a diet coke at breakfast like I did last year.

And I have had creole cream cheese ice cream in New Orleans which is more similar to fromage blanc. Quite good!

ParisAmsterdam...hilarious! I am glad you got the joke with Madame Lent. I never complain about Paris servers, but she is text book!

tomarkot...there were some little cafes on the square/plaza outside the church that should be good. That's really a question for Kerouac. Maybe he will see this and post.

TPAYT...they have one of those machines at the cafe at Petit Palais.

Thanks to all for your nice comments. Nice to know it is being read and enjoyed. Lotta love out there for Ste Chapelle, isn't there?

Your report is fun, and informative. It's so interesting to see how each person or couple or group spends time in Paris. You're giving me good ideas for next trip!!

Denise - I picked up a six-pack of what I thought was Coca Light at the grocery store when we first got to Paris. When I got one out to drink later, I saw that I had actually bought Coca Light Lemon which was delicious. Wish we had it here. Have you tried it?

They had Diet Coke with lemon years ago US, but I don't think I ever had it. I don't think it is made anymore (or at least not in the US). I love a fresh lime with diet coke!

Loving your report! My DH used to horrify the French by ordering a diet coke with breakfast! I have now gotten him to have a hot chocolate. He has never been a coffee drinker.

I look forward to each of your posts. Thank you!

“Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quietest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey”. Pat Conroy

Wednesday’s travel log from Paris.

We grabbed a pain au chocolat on the go as I wanted to get in line at the Notre Dame towers. It was delicious and I don’t know the name of the bakery, but it is on Avenue Rapp.

Uh, hello. We were first in line at the towers. Waited about 20 minutes and up we go. Well almost. They let a bunch of people in and you climb, get excited and then the corral you in a little gift shop. I am not quite sure why but I guess it is meant to keep the groups together somewhat. I didn’t enjoy it. I wanted to climb!
They made us wait about 10 minutes and then we were allowed to climb on up.

Now I know, this isn’t a great activity to do with a bum knee, but it wasn’t too bad on it and I am a good climber. We made it up in no time and were treated to a fabulous view of Paris. We had a pretty sunny day so the view really was special to see.

There is something to photograph constantly with the view and the gargoyles. I can’t explain how totally cool this was. The Fall trees, the Seine, the city…to see it all from this vantage point is so worthwhile! And, I think, this was our favorite thing from this trip.

Coming down was way harder on the knee and it can be a tight squeeze. We wandered around the park behind the cathedral and checked to see if the Deportation memorial was open. It was closed. We had a look at the bridge with all the locks on it and realized that we needed to get on over to L’Orangerie if we wanted to see the Monets before lunch.

We felt like walking, which took a while but it was a nice day.

Lots of people in the Tuilleries gardens! Short security line at the museum and we used our museum pass (as we did at the Towers earlier) for entry. And in we went to see the Monet canvases. They are amazing. I have always loved Monet and it was quite an experience to finally see these huge canvases. There are some other beautiful paintings at L’Orangerie, as well, but the Monet canvases are the stars of the show!

Hopped on The Metro at Concorde to get back over to the “islands”. I love the walk over the bridge from Ile de Cite to Ile St Louis. I also love rue St Louis en Ile. Everything is so quaint and charming.

Noticed that the chocolat shop that used to be Cacao et Chocolat has a new name. Passed Diwali also with all the pretty scarves.

L’Orangerie, the restaurant, is really nice. I love the old and still modern look of it. Our server offered to speak in English which we appreciate (because our French is so bad). She was very good. We ordered the entrée+plat lunch. They served us a savory cheese spread and toast with our champagne. Delicious! The entrée were little ravioli (cheese) with a spinach sauce. Loved it. The main course was lamb shoulder. It was very good, maybe a tad gamey but very good. I can never finish everything though!

This is a great place with great food and at a reasonable price. It wasn’t busy at all and we were the last ones in there. I would recommend it and heard about from one of the recent trip reports (thanks). You can make a reservation online through The Fork (La Fourchette).

Well, since we were right there we decided an ice cream cone from Berthillon would be necessary for dessert. And to my absolute surprise, NO LINE! At Berthillon! It felt a bit like a Twilight Zone episode where the guy wakes up and the whole town is deserted. The same lady who waited on us last year waited on us today and she is very kind with our bad French. No salted butter caramel today, so I tried the caramel. Chaz went for the blood orange sorbet. Both great, but the sorbet was better. The caramel is not as good as the salted butter caramel but does have like a ribbon of burnt sugar (like crème brulee topping) in it. Very good but nothing lives up to that salted butter caramel.

I laughed when I thought of how many of my fellow Americans have probably complained at the size of the scoop. It is the perfect size, actually. But, I can just hear the complaints and comments at the miniscule size compared to the gargantuan scoops served here. And the quality is beyond anything we would have here, even with the premium ice creams. And no peanut butter cups or brownies in the ice cream??

A little stroll along the Seine and then to the deportation memorial. I wanted to see it after reading Sarah’s Key several months ago. It is actually very beautiful and worth seeing.

So, I promised I would go back to Un Dimanche a Paris to purchase and so we walked over to the 6th. The shop is so sleek and beautiful and a bit intimidating. Ya know, you’re afraid to touch anything for fear of being smacked on the wrist or called out for it. Well, we had the most wonderful sales clerk who was kind, informative and welcoming. She spoke English and explained everything and gave us some favorites. We bought 6 macarons (2 strawberry, salted caramel (of course), café, lemon ginger, and orange flower). They were all wonderful (eaten later)! The lemon ginger ended up as my fav with strawberry a close second. We also bought some little salted caramel chocolats (see a pattern here?). Those were eaten on the flight home and I wish I had bought more than 6 of them! We also picked up these little chocolat discs with orange peel, hazelnuts on top. We had them last year from Cacao et Chocolat and they are addictive! We have started on them now that we are home and they will be gone soon.

There is a very nice olive oil shop next store. I regret not picking up the cheese board I saw in there. The wood was beautiful.

Danton called us again and we crossed over to sit outside for a diet coke and café noir. We headed back to the Kir afterwards to rest up and clean up.

A little walk around the rue St Dominique area before dinner. We got a little “lost” since we hadn’t really been over there and I somehow thought we wouldn’t need to cross Avenue Bosquet. A nice guy looked it up on his iPhone (see, even the locals don’t always know where everything is) and we were on the way.

Reed is so very charming. It is a good mix of modern and classic. It is a pretty little place. Catherine Reed is just lovely. She takes great care of you and the food and wine are wonderful. She had a new server (Melissa) who just needs some confidence, doesn’t speak English but she does understand a bit. She would smile and laugh at the right times, so I think she could understand some things a little. I think it was literally her 2nd or 3rd day. A little more experience and she will be OK.

The menu at Reed is small but Catherine cooks right in front of you and knows what she is doing. I would always prefer a few things done well! We started with a bit of champagne.
For the entrée, I had cauliflower/leek soup and Chaz had charcuterie. It consisted of rillette, andouilette and jambon with an apple slaw. I had not had the first two items before and they were delicious! The bread there is also perfect for us. (meant to ask where she buys if from, but forgot). Catherine chose a Sancerre Rose wine for us and we loved it. Worked well for both of our choices!

I chose the potimarron risotto with parmesan with jambon. Chaz decided on the traditional blanquette de veau (the wild boar stew was a close second). This is what risotto should be like, creamy, a tad salty and the potimarron added that Fall flavor. A home run for me. Chaz’s was also delicious and was very homey (the American version of comfort food).

We weren’t hungry anymore, but we decided to share a dessert. A light lemon cheesecake is what we chose. It was nothing like our cheesecake and was light and refreshing. A great finish and for 96 Euros! A little coffee for Chaz and we were off for a good night’s sleep at the Kir.

Or so we thought! Sssssssss. Is that another snake?

Thursday plan: a little shopping and meandering and the Thanksgiving dinner at Violon d’Ingres

Denisea:
We are enjoying your report and wait for more!!!!Definitely Un Dimanche a Paris is on our "not to miss" list for 2012!!!

Denisea:

I continue to enjoy following you around Paris ... especially to all the wonderful restaurants!

I also read Sarah's Key & I am inspired to visit the deportation memorial. Can you tell me where it is located? Thanks!

2010, the deportation memorial is located behind the park at Notre Dame. The entrance is just to the left of the bridge with all the "lover's locks" on it. (If your back is to Notre Dame).

Just walk to the back of church, walk though the little park and look to your right. The bridge will be there on your right and the entrance will be slightly to the left of that bridge.

Not hard to find. They will give you a little lecture on turning your phone to silent and ask you to be silent in the memorial, etc...as you enter through the little black bar gate.

Loved the Pat Conroy quote.
Glad you enjoyed L'Orangerie restaurant, it was one of our favorites.
In all of our Paris trips we never went to the top of Notre Dame because the lines were too long. What time did you get there to be 1st in line? Maybe your photos will inspire us for next time.

Thanks TPAYT...I believe the rec for L'Orangerie did come from you. I do love that quote...if you love travel it summarizes it perfectly.

I too had never bothered to climb ND because of the lines and this trip was really about trying to do some of those things we had never been able to do. I remembered that last year at Christmas, we saw the line and it was not too bad (cold and freezing rain outside). So, I thought that we might be able to climb this trip. You always are weighing the importance/payoff vs the time in the line...worth it? Will it take all day?

We got to the gate (left of the church around the corner and not very well marked) at 9:40. And the line was that long behind us. It is worth it, especially if the weather is good.

There are pictures coming. I am pulling them off the camera and phones and trying to organize them. I am not good at that part of it.

oops, I meant not TOO long behind us. Sorry TPAYT.

“A journey is like a marriage. The certain way to be wrong is to think you control it.” John Steinbeck

Thursday started promptly at a few minutes after midnight.

Chaz is sick. No, I mean really sick. Wicked chills and epic time required every few hours in the bathroom. Stupid snakes! We are definitely not controlling this journey, are we?

He got no sleep and although things finally started settling down around 5am, he is in no shape to do anything today. I ran to the store to get some more water, some lemonade and apple juice. I wanted that American "when you are sick classic", ginger ale. I don't think it exists in France. I found a banana and a box of pretzels as well, just in case he can eat a little something…all easy to digest. Now over to the boulangerie. I got a baguette and a few croissants and had petit dejeuner,with Coke Light of course. A favorite of mine is a buttery croissant with strawberry preserves.

Now, am I a bad wife? The Kir is small and fine for sleeping/showering, but to sit in all day, no. At this point Chaz doesn’t want anything and you just have to wait it out. Nothing to be done. He is wanting me to go out and so off I go.

I don’t have a plan really, because today was supposed to be for a little shopping and wandering around. The last thing on my list to see is Musee Marmottan. I decide to wait and try to go with Chaz.

Instead, I took the 42 bus to Place de la Madeleine. I made a mental note to come back to avenue Montaigne at night to take a look at the Christmas lights.

I knew we would want some more mustard from Maille, so I picked up a little crock. Did a little window shopping on rue Royale but I just wasn’t in to shopping today. I took a little stroll in the park off the Concorde and down one side of the Champs Elysee. Still lots of Fall color in Paris. It’s a pretty area and you can always enjoy just being in Paris.

I also made a run through the Christmas market on the Champs Elysee. Not that hungry but decided on a lemon sucre crepe. Very yummy! The perfect blend of tart and sweet. I can’t eat too much before the Thanksgiving dinner at Violon D’Ingres.

I made my way over the Petit Palais since I had never been there. It is free to get in. There was a nice collection of vases and other vessels up front. And, an amazing portrait of Sarah Bernhard with her dog. I strolled the gallery, feeling so conspicuous. Not because I was alone, but because my boots were squeaking all over the wood floor. Shhh! There is a really nice collection here, some Renoir, Cezanne, Monet, Baccarat crystal, Limoges, a bit of everything. It is not crowded in the Petit Palais.

The garden in the center of the Petit Palais is so nice, so I got some fresh squeezed OJ at the café and sat outside. I made myself very conspicuous there by knocking over one of the metal café chairs. Sorry, don’t mind me!

I had my book with me and read my annual Thanksgiving read. It is a 3 story compilation by Truman Capote. The story for today, “ A Thanksgiving Visitor”. I read these every year and this was a perfect setting for a bit of reading. A little oasis in the center of Paris.

I toyed with the idea of going back to the Kir early in case Chaz needed something. But, my experience told me that he would not want anything and I didn’t want to wake him if he were napping.

Next, I decided to head over to the Musee Carnavalet in the Marais. Naturally, there seemed to be a stop for every bus line around me except the one that goes to Saint Paul. No matter. The metro to Saint Paul was right there and off I went. I heard an accordion playing La Vie en Rose in the Metro and had to smile! I am a tourist, but I just love that about Paris. I got off the Metro and got my bearings and headed over. (Thank God for those brown signs that point to the sites).

Now, I know many will disagree with me. But, I don’t really like the Marais. It’s crowded and commercial and I don’t see the attraction. That is the great thing about Paris though. We all find our own favorite spots and places.

I liked the Carnavalet. It is worthwhile and full of history, but not my favorite. It is a unique setting and I liked the photos of the old Les Halles markets and some of the historical figure portraits. I am amazed at how many I recognize now and know a little about. Growing up in Memphis, I didn’t get much French history. I have read a lot the past few years and have tried to learn more about French history. It is more fun to see all this when you understand who this or that person was.

I was all ready to head back and find the bus, but was distracted but something very shiny. Jewelry in a shop window.

I stopped in the jewelry store called Satellite and bought a cute little necklace and earrings. My Paris gift to myself. I wanted to take a photo of the decorated Christmas window and asked, but the clerk said no. Oh well.

So back to the rue Rivoli/St Antoine to look for the bus. I kept finding phone booths instead of bus stop shelters but did find it and the sign said it would be there in 3 minutes. Perfect. We passed the BHV department store, Hotel de Ville, the Louvre on the way back to the Kir. A little sight seeing never hurt anyone.

As I opened the door to the Kir, Chaz woke up. He slept all day. Those stupid snakesssss! He drank some juice and I had some too. (I even love the apple juice in France…so good, more like our cider) Never drink it here. He ate some pretzels but just knew he couldn’t make it to Thanksgiving dinner. I didn’t think he would be able to. I felt so bad for him. He encouraged me to go ahead to Joan’s and the dinner.

I walked over to Joan’s and the others arrived after me. Micheline and Francoise speak little English. Michael speaks a little and Laurent was the translator for the night. I can pick out a few words here and there…and tried to explain what Thanksgiving is to Francoise. Religious? No, Military? No. What is the French word for grateful? Beats me! Laurent explained to all that it is to express your thankfulness for what you have. I didn’t dare get into the Pilgrims and Indians! Michael doesn’t speak much English but we hit it off and had fun picking out the words we understand. Champagne is a language everyone seems to understand. A few glasses of it at the Fleurie apartment and then we were off.

I can only say that we were a lively group. We had such a great time and they took wonderful care of us. I have to admit that they Alexandre at Violon is total eye candy! (And yes, Chaz knows this)! See, there is something more to be thankful for…a fabulous looking French guy. Why not?

We had a lot of wine. We had roast turkey with celery root puree. The first starter was a little frog leg ravioli in a broth. The second was grilled scallops with thinly sliced truffle. Dessert was pumpkin tart. It was terrific and I hate pumpkin pie! Laurent and Michael are so much fun! It went by so fast. As we wrapped up our Thanksgiving night, Joan (or Jo-Ahhhn, as they all call her…no French equivalent for Joan) and I were chastised for not speaking French and commanded by Micheline to learn by next year. Micheline and Francoise headed off, while Joan, the guys and I stopped in at Café Constant for a café crème.

What a fun time! We walked back to our apartments and Laurent was certain that Friday might be a tough day after the all the wine.

A big thanks to Joan for inviting me and arranging it all.
Chaz was glad we had fun and wanted to hear all about it (and thought that the Alexandre part was funny). I had a great dinner and he had pretzel sticks!

He is starting to get uncomfortable in the little bed in the Kir. It is not meant to be lain in for 24+ hours! We called it a night and were hoping only for a good night’s sleep and for St Patrick to come and drive the snakes out of France.

The plan for Friday…a bit of shopping and I am taking Chaz for a little surprise. Sssssurely the snakes are all gone!

Poor Chaz! Thanksgiving meal (and Alexandre) sounded good enough to eat...

Wow, Denisea. "The best laid plans of mice and men. . ."!!! We can identify with your experience. . .different city (Koln), but same elements. Room too small when one is ill. So wifey entertains self while hubby recuperates. Sorry you had to deal with all this, but sounds like you "weathered" it OK. Can't wait to hear the next part of your trip.

And just a supportive comment. . .you're not alone in feeling that the Marais isn't your favorite part of Paris. We've stayed in the area on two different trips. The one plus is that it's convenient to the main metro line. But our fav parts of Paris are in other areas. That's the great thing about Paris. . .enough variety for everyone.

Denisea: What a lovely story about Thanksgiving. Well, not so lovely for Chaz, dommage -- but I love the way you told about your day wandering alone around Paris.

You make me want to go right back to see all the things I missed, but I guess that would make me greedy. I am thankful that we had the wonderful trip we did have.

And you got to have Thanksgiving dinner with Joan, how very nice!

I really don't want to sound picky because I've followed your reports and found some wonderful suggestions, and I also appreciate your comments on my posts, but with all the apartments available in Paris, what ever made you decide to rent one with a sofa bed? Yes, it looks charming, but oh so small. IMO, the reason to rent an apt. is to have some room to relax in the morning and in the evening before dinner, and also to have a real bed.

Again, I don't want to add to those snakes, but what were you thinking? And my next question is "Would you rent an apt. again, or go back to a hotel?"

I also must add that I think that the way both of you handled this major inconvenience was commendable

TPAYT- We did ask a lot of questions about the sofa bed before renting the apartment. I was nervous about it. And it was surprisingly comfortable.

The apartment was actually great and larger than the hotel room we had last year. This apartment was not our first choice but was the only apartment available through the agency we wanted to use for Thanksgiving week.

We were pretty set on Paris Perfect since this was our first time to rent an apartment. I liked the fact the they have an office in Paris and close to their apartments. We could use a credit card, no worries about individual owners, no mailing keys before and we wouldn't have to worry that there would be no one to show you the ins and outs of the building. So many positive comments on Fodors, also led us to Paris Perfect. I also found out that Joan had actually stayed in the Kir and she assured me that it is comfortable.

As it turns out, their office and staff came in handy when AF delivered Chaz' bag. We didn't have to sit around waiting for the delivery company to show up. At some apartments, I would think we would have needed to be there and we would have lost more vacation time.

We knew it wasn't our tempurpedic mattress. But we did get some info on the manufacturer from PP prior to booking it.

We did have some room to relax in the Kir but we also know that we will not spend much time in an apartment or in a hotel room, outside of sleeping. Regardless of how large an apartment is, we aren't going to cook on vacation, so we really just needed a refrigerator, a little table & chairs, and the coffee maker was a plus.

The only problem with the bed came when stuck in it for 24 hours straight, instead of an 8 hour overnight sleep.

And while I was planning to answer the apt. vs hotel question at the end of the report, I would definitely rent an apartment again. We don't use any hotel services and we enjoyed the freedom we had with the apartment and the cost was a bit less than the hotel we used last year.

We would consider other apartment rental agencies next time, as well. I wanted a safe bet agency for the first time around. I understand your question but I have no complaints or disappointment regarding the apartment we rented.

I was unfortunate enough to be sick in Paris for an entire day once - and had to push my husband out the door. Go! No reason for both people to be holed up while all of Paris is there for you.

Btw, I'm with you on the Marais.

Thanksgiving sounded wonderful. I hope Friday finds Chaz in a better state.

Great report!

TDudette, you are right about Alexandre. Tmarkot, this happens to everyone at some point. Chaz has had his share of this, as he got sick with the same type of thing during our last night in Paris last year.

Taconictraveller, doesn't make you greedy at all. I am the same way as I am reading other reports. We all want to go back and catch the stuff we missed or didn't know about!

YankyGal and tomarkot...you know how the forum can be if you dare state a preference. Was hoping not to get an avalanche of responses extolling the virtues of the Marais.

Denisea, you wrote
"There are pictures coming. I am pulling them off the camera and phones and trying to organize them. I am not good at that part of it."

Never mind, you are totally excellent at every other part of it!!
Thank you for sharing your time in Paris.

“Not all those who wander are lost.” JRR Tolkien


Friday, day 5

Friday and we got up and Chaz was better, nowhere near 100% but good to go. A little coffee in the apartment and we are off for the day. We took the 42 bus over to Avenue Montaigne for a little window shopping. Can I just say that Plaza Athenee is truly beautiful? There are lights in the trees down the entire avenue and I look forward to coming over at night to see it lit up.

A spin through Chanel and I saw the ultimate ridiculous fantasy item of the trip. A gorgeous bag that was a mere 49,500 euros. I can’t imagine having that kind of money and if I did, I don’t think I could ever justify spending it on a purse. But, it was a good looking bag.

I would say that every high end designer has a store on Avenue Montaigne (Chanel, Dior, Roberto Cavalli, Valentino, Jimmy Choo…all there). Window shopping only here for me. We ended at the Champs Elysee where the blue Christmas lights are all set up. It’s a bit “Jetsons” like, as far as style.

I decided that now is the time for petit dejeuner. We stopped in at Café Alsace on the Champs Elysee. It was adequate but definitely not memorable. Chaz wasn’t really hungry and I didn’t need much. We continued on to Avenue Georges V.

I had a little surprise field trip planned for Chaz. We passed the Four Seasons and admired all the hot luxury cars parked out front. I don’t think our Jeep Wrangler would qualify for upfront parking.

On to Hediard, because I just love to gawk at the food. I wanted to get some of their Gouda cheese crispies with chili for our Saturday champagne sessions back home. They are so very tasty! We also picked up a few of these addictive butter cookies and speculoos for our families.

We left Hediard and rounded the corner on Avenue Pierre 1er de Serbie. He finally saw the awning for Creed and was excited to visit. He has wanted some of their Green Irish Tweed fragrance for about a year now. Now is the time.

The sales lady for very helpful to us and he tried a few other fragrances before coming back to the Green Irish Tweed. Our sales person also gave us quite a few samples to try, as well. Very kind of her. I am looking forward to trying the Virgin Island Water and the Jardin d’Amalfi (since it is closest I will get to either place anytime soon).

We made our way over to the Champs Elysee Christmas market to check out the food offerings. Neither one of us was terribly hungry but then we saw this huge, HUGE kettle of potatoes. I don’t know what they were but they were creamy, rustic and homey. The serving would have fed about 3 people. Delicious! That was lunch for us.

From there we made our way down rue Boissy d’Anglais, past L’Obe at the Crillon and Buddha Bar to rue Fauboug St Honore. A little more shopping and on to St Augustin. I have seen this church often from a distance and have never known what it was. Now’s the time to find out. The façade is still beautiful but could use a power wash. The pipe organ in the back of the church looks impressive. It’s a lovely church, but it seems they all are.

We decided to check out Printemps and the windows there. So back to Blvd Haussman and on to Printemps. Another thing that I have decided is that I just don’t care for…the Grand Magasins. I know I should expect it during the Christmas season, but they are just too hot, crowded and chaotic for my taste. But, they do have everything! And, the Printemps windows were beautiful. There was one that was loaded with Chanel and all red and black. Fashion fantasy for sure. Another done is white, silver and crystal chandeliers. Gorgeous. One that was little ballerinas dancing and another that was space age theme. Worth seeing but I was in need of a rest and a diet coke. It was spitting rain enough to be annoying.

We hit Café de la Paix for out afternoon pick me ups. We sat overlooking the Opera Garnier. I think this is the most beautiful building in Paris. It is so ornate! At this point, I could tell Chaz needed a break and some rest. He wouldn’t admit it but I know the look on his face. We hopped on a bus and headed back to the Kir.

A little rest and we decided that we need a duck fat free meal and I thought Italian sounded good. What to do for dinner? We mulled it over while sampling macarons, for me the lemon/ginger macaron from Un Dimanche a Paris and OMG. Taste explosion of macaron perfection. A+. Chaz had his strawberry macaron and also gives it a big thumps up.

Chaz suggested Marco Polo. We have always gone there and we really love it. Albano is so friendly and welcoming, so the decision was made to head there.

This is where we should have done more research on the bus system. But, we didn’t, so we made a few dumb mistakes. The first was flat out funny.

You know how you have that nagging feeling that you should go over and check the other bus stop across the way from you? Well, we should have done that. But, we didn’t and it cost us a ticket and our pride. We waited at the 87 stop just down from the Kir and the bus came, we went one stop and everyone was getting off. A woman said something to us, as she walked past that we didn’t understand and then the driver said something that included “terminee”. Oh, got it! Duh! So it’s not just a loop that you can ride forever. End of the line, get off stupid!

Yep, should have checked that stop across the way ‘cause that’s where we should have been. OK, we waited and 10 minutes later the bus pulls up (we try the old ticket, no good) and it is the same driver who gave us a good natured, knowing chuckle. Yep, we are dummies. No matter and we ended up right at the Odeon Carrefour.

So, as is our pattern, we had drinks and chips at the counter at Danton. We met a young man from Morocco and tried really hard to carry on a conversation with him. Apparently, one of the other customers didn’t enjoy this at all. He just glared at me and kept rolling his eyes. Kinda like he hated me for not speaking French and daring to be in his café. I wanted to go all NYC on him and throw out a “What?” Ah, but there are too many words for “what” in French…quoi, que, quel, qui, who knows? I surely don’t . Just kidding anyway, we were having a great time; Chaz with his Affligem de Noel and me with my champagne.

Anyway, we had a nice “almost” conversation with the man from Morocco. He mostly wanted to know if Paris or the US is better. Loaded question to which there is no answer, especially in my very broken and limited French.

We then headed on over to Marco Polo at got a seat outside. The waiter who seated us seemed incredibly nervous that he didn’t speak English. He actually spoke excellent English and I find that we can always at least order in French or Italian. Ssssso, there we are ssssipping a little champagne, it’s not going down too easy. Hmmm. That’s weird.

The beautiful buffala mozzarella with cherry tomatoes and greens came out and I ate almost all of it. Very refreshing and a huge amount of cheese but I couldn’t stop.

Then Il primo, fresh ricotta and spinach ravioli with fresh tomato sauce. Wow, I am getting full, sssso fassst.

Secondi, beautiful grilled prawns and spinach. For Chaz, veal saltimbocca and roasted potatoes. I ate two prawns and gave one to Chaz. I am feeling a bit nauseous. So full. Miserable. No way I can get that gorgonzola that I love. I sssee the 87 bus pass and wish I was on it. Where’s the check?

We paid the bill and headed over to the 87 stop. Oh no (remember I said we should have done more research?). That 87 bus I had wished I was on, was the last one! Alright, another mistake. No worries. The Metro is right here. We’ll head over and hop on the RER C line to get back to the Kir.

Really not feeling well. Just want to get back to the Kir. Oh, no. It’s a Friday night and since the RER is a commuter train (I think), the train is not going to Pont de l’Alma. Lasssst ssstop, Invalidessss.

Oh God, are you kidding me? Don’t get sick on the train. Hold it together. I am sure that in my right mind I could have figured out a way to get closer by train, but I couldn’t think or reason. So we walked from Invalides. Way longer than I would have preferred. But we did finally make it to the Kir. It’sss just a matter of time.

And so, now it is my turn. For most of the night, I am wretching and spending a lot of time crumpled on the bathroom floor. Freezing and channeling Nancy Kerrigan and, though not actually crying, but in my head, whining, “Why? Why? Whhhyyy??? This was epic, truly epic.

Next, I am channeling Samuel L Jackson’s character in “Snakes on a Plane”…. "Enough is enough! I have had it with these (very bad expletive) snakes on this (very bad expletive) plane"!

Now, couldn’t this have happened last week? Next week? Oh well, I resign myself to spending Saturday in the Kir, just like Chaz had done 48 hours before. I hope he will enjoy the day on his own.

Saturday morning came and I didn’t die. I survived the smell of Chaz making is coffee (the smell of anything makes me want to barf). I ask him to bring some water home later, but don’t need anything. I give him the metro maps, the carnet of tickets, suggest the Catacombs and/or the Rodin Museum and send him off. I often kid him about leaving all the vacation navigation to me but he’s an engineer by training, so he will figure it out.

I cannot believe that I am laying in bed, in Paris, watching CNBC (one of the few channels we have in English). I can’t even think about standing up or eating anything. I hate to miss the market at President Wilson! Bummer. I can’t even tolerate a sip of diet coke until about 8pm that night. Chaz came back in the afternoon. His day didn’t exactly go as planned. He did hit the beautiful food hall at Le Bon Marche and had a pain au chocolat. He was heading somewhere and following a Rick Steves walk, but didn't end up where he wanted.

From there he went to the Rodin museum. I am glad he went. I had been there BC (before Chaz) and think it is beautiful and it was a nice day. He is never too happy to go without me and even at home, I can think of times when he was going to do several things on his own and ended up back home early. He also is not feeling great and so no one goes out to dinner on Saturday night in Paris. (Ridiculous, isn’t it?) We end up eating the remaining very stale pretzels and the last of a baguette.

I am sure this will be funny some day. But, not now. Too many pastries, chocolats, cheeses etc…will go uneaten on this trip. Now, I do understand that this means I will have to come back and finish the job. I am willing to do so, but I had so many of you counting on me to eat as much as possible and report back. Mission not accomplished, yet!

Sunday’s plan: maybe Marmottan, lunch at L’Obe (Hotel Crillon), a visit to Ave. Montaigne and the Champs Elysee Christmas market at night

You poor thing! I sympathize, tho' luckily neither of us was sick on our recent trip to Paris. Usually one of us has a really bad 24 hours.

You tell the story so well, and I have an engineer husband also, who is never quite sure of the map or the day's plan, and who isn't so good on his own! He can always find a meal though,even without me, no matter what country he's in!

Hope you are better for your Sunday plan!!

Talk about snakes!!! You really had your challenges on this trip. You sure seem to have handled it well.

Sunday just has to be a better day.

Denisea, after reading your most recent post, I had to walk away from the computer because I felt so bad for you. Between the two of you, you really had more than your share of bad breaks on this trip. Hopefully, your Sunday picked up. We'll look forward to hearing all about it.

You know, we did really get it. But, we got to do so much and those first few days were so great. We did have a good trip. Maybe we're done for awhile with the bad luck. I don't remember breaking a mirror!

I am sure there are worse travel stories out there. It wasn't all bad by any stretch of the imagination.

I will always remember that it can all go wrong and be likely to go hard the first few days of future vacations, just in case. At least we had done most of the things we really wanted to before the stomach virus hit us. So it didn't stop us from getting to the places we hadn't made it to before.

It was a good Thanksgiving because it did remind us to be glad for what we do have and what we have gotten the chance to do and see. No worries!

What an unssssssnakey attitude, denise. Thanks for writing!

I always love reading your trip reports.

Yes such a shame being sick on a much looked forward to holiday in Paris. But you seemed to pack lots of good experiences in your time in Paris.
Love the food descriptions!

You poor, poor things! First Chaz then you. I feel so bad for you both (but not as bad as I'm sure you two felt.) Yes, one day you'll be able to laugh about the snake trip to Paris in 2011. Now, if that had happened to me it would simply be an excuse to go back again and soon.

Denisea,

I have been following your posts before and after your trip. I feel so bad for you and Chaz.
You are an excellent writer. I look forward to your posts.
We will be in France in September and started reading posts a few months ago to get restaurant/apartment suggestions, but have gotten hooked!
We booked an apartment off Rue Daphine from Parisan Flats and I had been hoping we made the right decision. I appreciated your comments about the 6th vs the 7th or the Marais.
Looking forward to the rest of your report. I hope you felt better for the end of your trip.

I'm so sorry to read of your bad luck on this trip! I hope it ends on a good note.

I made our L'Obe reservations today so I'm curious of your experience there for lunch.

I'm enjoying this report immensely and looking forward to the rest!

You all are so kind. I hope that the report hasn't been too Debbie Downer.

Chutney, don't second guess your decision. I think you can have a great time no matter where you stay. There are certainly pluses to every area. It sounds like you found a great location. I love the area around rue Dauphine.

BeachGirl, I think you will like L'Obe. If Frederic waits on you, he is really wonderful. Great service, so no worries.
My info on L'Obe should be on today's post.

ttt

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” Martin Buber

Sunday: Our last day in Paris

Sunday began at a very leisurely pace. I felt so much better but just like Chaz, not 100%. We left the apartment around 11am with no plan other than lunch at L’Obe at 12:30.

We went around the corner to catch the bus. And there was some sort of notice posted regarding the bus service. We deciphered it as best we could, and as it turns around correctly. Normal bus service resumes at 11am. Lucky for us. I ran into the grocer to get a banana, since I felt a little hungry and wanted to see how it would go.

The bus came and took us to Place de la Concorde. Sunday am is a great time to visit the area. Fewer people and far fewer cars. There is something about Place de la Concorde…it is awe inspiring. So we strolled around and got close to those beautiful fountains. I really am a sucker for fountains. Took a few pictures and decided to wander through the little park I had visited on Thursday. It felt good to be outside.

Time came and we walked over the The Crillon and did a lap in their little shop up front. If you have never visited, go if you get the chance. It is so elegant and I hope when it is remodeled, it will remain so.

We made our way to the back for lunch. L’Obe is also elegant. Beautiful, but not as ornate as Les Ambassadeurs. The word classic comes to mind. The tables are understated but well set. I loved the chandeliers. Not showy at all, but these beautiful crystal maple leaves.

Frederic is our waiter and knows Joan very well. He is a class act. We started with some Laurent-Perrier rose champagne. It tastes good but not as good as it should. Chaz is loving it and I am struggling a little bit. We thoroughly enjoyed the gougeres that were brought. They are way better than mine. It is the first time we have been served gougeres in Paris. Finally!

We ordered a carrot/orange veloute for me to start with and the crab salad with avocado and grapefruit as my main. Chaz ordered the Caesar salad to start and the hangar steak with mushrooms for his main.

The soup was wonderful but rich and I couldn’t eat very much of it. My stomach didn’t appreciate my choice. Chaz loved his Caesar salad. Frederic was concerned that I didn’t eat much but I assured him it was delicious. The crab and steak came out and that steak was gorgeous and perfectly cooked.
My crab salad was beautiful and there was this pink grapefruit foam all around the perfect circle of crab salad. It looked like it was on a pink cloud. So delicious but I was struggling. I was just trying to eat as much as I could but I knew that I was not really well.

Again, Frederic seemed so worried that I was not eating much. I had to tell him I had been sick and it was no reflection on the food or service. Joel Robuchon himself could have served me tableside and I still wouldn’t have been able to eat. I needed chicken broth.

Chaz loved his steak and needed to finally eat real food. As lovely as it was, I just wanted to get back outside again. We thanked Frederic profusely and I sorrowfully looked at the beautiful cheese selection as we left. Au revoir. I really hate that I wasn’t really able to enjoy L’Obe. I would love to go back if it survives the hotel re-do.

I thought that we should ditch Marmottan and opted for the Promenade Plantee, instead. I felt like moving and being outside would be the best thing. I couldn’t let the snakes choke the life out of my last day. Maybe this would be our secret destination.

A quick Metro ride and we exited at Place de la Bastille. Boy, my legs knew I had been sick. The stairs were tough that day. My quads felt only slightly better than after completing a marathon. We found the entry to the Promenade and enjoyed it very much. Thank you…I know it was a suggestion made on my “One week countdown” post. It would be cool to visit in summer to see this but it was still pretty in Fall.

Well, one more time with the 87 bus…no service. Ugh! I would have to get on the Metro again. This is the only time on a subway anywhere that I knew I had to get a seat. I finally did after the second stop. We made it to the Georges V stop and walked back to the apartment from there.

A little rest at the Kir and we headed back out after it became dark. I really wanted to get back out and wanted to see some of the lights on Avenue Montaigne and the “Jetson” scene at the Rond Point/Champs Elysee. I was still not even remotely hungry. So, we looked at some of the store windows and enjoyed the lights on Avenue Montaigne.

Now, I was thinking maybe the Christmas market wouldn’t be that busy on a Sunday night. Wrong!!! It was packed and I am sure it gets worse, but there were tons of people around. We waded through and Chaz stopped for a saucisse et fromage. I couldn’t even look at it but he enjoyed it. Not what you would usually want for your last dinner in Paris but it worked. We had enough of the crowd and I was never going to eat anything, so we decided to head back.

We luckily found a little crepe stand off the Christmas market and I talked Chaz into getting a dessert crepe. He had mentioned wanting something sweet but had tired of the crowds. This was perfect. The man actually made his own chocolat spread instead of using nutella. Chaz said it was great and nothing like nutella, but no bites for me…I wasn’t ready. I did get an apple juice. And so that was it.

We walked one last time across the Seine and stopped to admire the Eiffel Tower one last time. (Did I ever mention that this is the first trip we have caught the twinkle show at night? One reason it is nice to stay close to the ET. It was fun to see.) Anyway, we headed back to the Kir at the end of another wonderful vacation in Paris. A little packing, checked in for the flight and an early night with the Tonight Show on CNBC. We are ready to go home.

Next up: the trip home, some final thoughts/impressions (including the strangest thing we saw) and the photo link.

Thanks for such an interesting report. I hope that the trip back home had no mishaps and was pleasurable. .
I am sure in restrospect you will think that your trip to Paris had many more highs than lows.
Again thanks for sharing your experiences.

“All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveler is unaware.” Martin Buber

Love that quote.

I agree with tdk that in retrospect this trip will hold many great memories for you both.

Curious what the "strangest thing we saw" could be!

Denisea, so glad that you were able to enjoy your Sunday. We like your Buber quote. And you're no Debbie Downer! You just described reality. Anyone who travels a lot has probably experienced getting ill, or if not, might at some time. But for the two of you to get sick on the same trip!!! You seemed to manage it as well as anyone could. We appreciate your additional comments on restaurants, as well as your description of bus experiences. Sounds as though Sunday bus schedules are ify. And location of actual bus stops presents some challenges. Especially frustrating when you don't feel well.

We'll look forward to your final impressions and photos. It's amazing that you have already posted such a lengthy and interesting report after being home such a short amount of time. We've been following your adventures, and like others have said, as time passes, you'll remember mainly the fun experiences
from your visit.

Before I forget to say it, your quotes are fabulous!! -- the Buber, the Tolkien, and the Steinbeck about marriage and travel -- a classic and so so true!!

This is a TRUE report, not just a bunch of superlatives about wonderful, fabulous things. That is what makes it so enjoyable. I think, in retrospect, all trips have their ups and downs. I'm just sorry you each had such a down day, with a few more hours tagged on the following day.

Still most informative and enjoyable to read. Many thanks.

Denisea,
Did you go to Place Dauphine from Kir or when you were in the Notre Dame area? Trying to figure out the easiest way to get there as we will be staying near Isle STe Louis area after we stay at Kir so that we can get the best of both worlds,

Great report telling it like it was. If you are like me, eventually the bad memories will fade away and the good ones will be magnified mainly because we usually only save the pictures that remind us of the good times (I'm really looking forward to seeing yours).

Just curious, did you get to have a farewell glass of wine at One Flew South before you left?

Denisea,

Great report. Thanks for telling it like it was. I have had a few digestive uproars in my travels. Unfortunately those are the events that come to mind, especially for my trip to Nancy years ago. I had to drive back to Haarlem the next day. That was an ordeal.

I did not get to One Flew South this time. We were in the crown room an just never made it over.

We went to Place Dauphine from the Notre Dame area.

“I dislike feeling at home when I am abroad.” George Bernard Shaw

Monday: Time to head home

We booked a taxi through a recommendation from Paris Perfect and the service was excellent! After all the sick time, I just didn’t want to deal with the train into CDG. After finishing our packing, I ran over to the PP office to print boarding passes. I picked up two pain au chocolat on the way back.

I ate a little bit but could only get half of it down. Still a little off!

The apartment cleaning woman showed up before the taxi did. It was a bit funny that she rang the doorbell at 9:40 and told me when I opened the door that it was 10am and I had to check out and leave now.

I told her that it wasn’t quite 10am and we had a cab coming and would be out shortly (I get that she wanted to get to work but didn’t really appreciate this exchange. If she wanted to call and ask when we were leaving to see if she could start early, that would be fine.)

We ended up leaving 10 minutes later to be able to spot the taxi when he came.

We had a great view of the Arc de Triomphe as we rode in the taxi and were in CDG, checked a bag home (liquids we couldn’t carry on…God help us) and through security all in an hour. A far cry from two years ago when it took 3 hours to check in/drop bag and get through security. I do love the Access One lines at passport control at CDG.

We had access to the AF lounge, which was great because we had lots of time. But, the plane was there (always a plus) and the flight was showing on time. The AF lounge at CDG is super nice, comfortable and easily beats the Crown Room in the E concourse at ATL.

A little roast beef, a small amount of bleu cheese and some diet coke with ice. I am started to get my appetite back and it was nice to have some quality food to eat before the flight. We got to the gate and were terrified of this woman who was asking for volunteers to go back tomorrow. The evening flight to ATL had already been cancelled and there has heavy fog. She walked over and asked us if we would volunteer our seats. We told her we could not do so and she really looked at us suspiciously. (We started calling her the angel of death…it almost creepy the way she would stalk people in the gate and slide over to ask them to volunteer).

The boarding process was chaotic, as usual. I don’t know what it is about AF but they just don’t do it in a very orderly fashion. After we were seated the angel of death boarded and we both were hoping she wasn’t coming for us!
We had the economy plus seats on the way back. They are slightly better than regular coach, but I didn’t get that much difference. It’s a longer flight and I am just squirming after a few hours. The good thing is that the seats are up front, away from the restrooms and you get in passport control/immigration line first upon landing.

Once we got a drink during the flight we decided to polish off the salted caramels we bought at UDaP. So good! I love Paris. I had the awful pasta on the way back but didn’t eat much. It was too thick and I couldn’t stomach it. What I could stomach was these little butter biscuit/cookies from Hediard. I love Paris. Holy cow they are tiny but good. They taste light browned butter and they have just a hint of salt. Chaz had no problem with them and well, we ate the entire box (they were tiny, really). So, pick some of them up when you are in Paris.

Fast forward, we finally landed an hour late, and get out of the airport about 45 minutes later, with all our bags. Home in another hour. We were so glad to see the girls (our Shelties, Missy and Ally) and they had a big play and chase session. We both slept well back in our own comfy bed. We loved Paris as always, but we love to be home.



“No one realizes how beautiful it is to travel until he comes home and rests his head on his old familiar pillow.” Lin Yutang

I always enjoy writing the trip report and have this time, as well. I nibbled on my little chocolat discs from UDaP occasionally as I wrote. But, we are glad to be home and to see our fun little Shelties. I wrote the T/R and decorated a bit for Christmas as the week went on. Have already noted several things we missed while there-it happens every time!

Ending impressions:

Despite the snakebites, we had a wonderful time. We will never be done with Paris and hope to return again (and again). We saw the things we really had hoped to finally see: L’Orangerie, Ste. Chapelle, St. Denis and the towers at Notre Dame and still had time to find a new favorite macaron!

Renting an apartment: Thumbs up! A very positive experience for us. Great if you don’t need hotel services , are independent and like being able to have a little food/drinks in the room. Would rent one again. I only didn’t like having to take the trash out at the end.
Staying in the 7th: very quiet and we liked it, especially since we had barely even seen the ET much on previous visits. Is it our favorite arrondisement? No.

The Bus: Thumbs up; we could have made it easier on ourselves by doing a bit more research and having the L’ Indispenable, but it is a great way to see the city, will save your legs/knees from climbing if that is an issue and is easy to use. Glad we finally tried it.

Favorite activity (this trip): Climbing the towers at Notre Dame

Least favorite activity: stepping in dog poo at night on the way to Reed (in fact there seemed to be more dog poo on the street on this trip than we have seen before, is Paris slipping?)

Favorite meal: Dinner at Reed!

Best new shop we visited: Un Dimanche a Paris…we loved everything we got here…shoulda bought more!

Strangest thing we saw: The woman next to us on the street at Café Danton getting a foil pack of butter out of her purse and eating it right out of the foil, with nothing else. I have no idea what that was about!

Most beautiful site: Sainte Chappelle

Most stereotypical interaction: Come, on, easy….Madame Lent at Le Comptoir!

Regret of the trip: No soufflé!

Favorite little “extra”: The music in the Metro, on Sunday there were two horn players playing classical music as we passed through the Concorde station; hauntingly beautiful piece that I recognized but don’t know the name of….it’s a little extra treat that Paris give you.

Thing I still want to do in Paris: a boat ride on the Seine at night (never thought I would say that)

Day trip I still want to make from Paris: Giverny, need to stop going in Fall/Winter to get this one done!

Lesson learned: even if you think you are carrying on your bags, still put half of clothes in each other’s bag…increase your chances of you both having something to wear in case your bag is taken from you!

Another lesson learned: Go ahead & get started early on the things you really want to do. We did ours the first 2 full days, if we hadn’t we might have missed out on some of the things we really wanted to see. As it turned out, we hit the 4 major things we really wanted before we both got sick.

Hygiene tip of the trip: Hose one’s self down hourly in Purell!  

I look forward to returning to Paris. It truly is a wonder! I have always has positive interactions with the French and appreciate them sharing their beautiful city with me. I thank all of you who contribute to this forum. I have learned so much and have gone places I never would have gone without your posts. I look forward to hearing all of your trip reports in the future. When I am missing Paris, your reports and posts keep me going. And finally, the photo link is posted below. There are a lot of photos! Au revoir!

https://picasaweb.google.com/105218133836338663708/Thanksgiving2011?authkey=Gv1sRgCLmSsezOi6LMeg

I loved the report and the photos! Thank you very much.

DH and I loved a movie from the 80's called "An American Dreamer in Paris". It starred JoBeth and Tom Conti. It is a light mystery/romance but much around Crillon and fountain are in it.

Good morning Denisea.

Your photos are wonderful! Thanks so much for posting them. Viewing them is like a virtual trip to Paris. Thanks also for your interesting reports. You packed a lot into one week, especially considering the health problems you both encountered. Glad all is well now.
I almost stopped taking photos on my last few trips, but yours have inspired me.
A few years ago I mounted some of my better ones on cards and used them for birthdays etc., even sold some at a gift shop.
P.S. I have taken the night boat ride on the Seine on almost every trip to Paris and I enjoy it every time. It doesn't take long and the illuminated buildings are spectacular.

The Art Nouveau building is probably the one on 29 Ave. Rapp:

http://www.flickr.com/search/groups/?w=1355962%40N21&m=pool&q=rapp

Thanks for the photos and TR, denisea! I'm so glad I've eaten lunch already.

You inspired me to go back to the top of ND on a future trip. I'm pretty sure I haven't been up there since the early 90s. Lovely photos.

If you've never seen the movie "Before Sunset" (Julie Delpy), you should rent it - the Promenade Plantée is prominently featured.

I followed along every day and read every word of your trip report - it was fabulous! Thank you so much for taking the time to share your adventure. I have been taking notes along the way and hope to try a couple of restaurants and will definitely visit Un Dimanche a Paris. We are planning our first trip to Paris - ten days - in late March/early April. After reading your trip report, I'm starting to plan our second trip to Paris! Thanks for sharing your passion for this city. Also enjoyed your quotes!

I have really enjoyed following along with you on this year's Paris trip. Before, during and after. Thanks again for taking the time to share your trip with us - good and bad! With your bout with the flu you have me questioning whether I should get a flu shot before we leave next weekend. Hmmm. Definitely stocking up on Purell!

I'm so looking forward to following in your footsteps to new restaurants and especially Un Dimanche a Paris! Must remember to pack stretch pants...

Welcome home!

What a wonderful, optimistic, witty, honest and fun trip report. I believe there are two kinds of people ~ those who look for the good and make lemonade out of lemons, and those who look for the bad (and find it, of course ~ it's always there if you look hard enough). You are definitely in the first group. Life (and Paris) are what you make of it ~ you made it a great trip regardless of anything that got thrown at you.

Your pictures are just gorgeous ~ they made me sigh and gave me really bad PPD, but they also reflect the beauty and uniqueness of Paris in every frame.

Thanks so much for sharing with us.

Jo

Really enjoyed your photos, denise, as well as your final summary thoughts about Paris. Thanks for sharing so many of your experiences. As others have noted, your restaurant descriptions will certainly have those of us planning a trip to Paris following your recommendations.

One thing that is always a "must do" when we visit Paris is a nighttime Seine River cruise. But this will be our first trip in winter. We were wondering if you noticed whether or not there were any glass-enclosed boats. . .or if that factor had anything to do with your taking a pass on the experience.

Again, denise, thanks for your wonderful reports!

Thanks everyone!

Michael that is the building. It's just wonderful, such detail.

BeachGirl - we had flu shots...we didn't have traditional influenza, this was an intestinal virus of some sort...just hope the odds are on your side

I did watch Before Sunset the week before we left (and Midnight in Paris on the flight over)!

tomarkot...there were boats with enclosures and it wasn't very cold at all. We just didn't get around to a trip on the Seine because we didn't make it a priority. This is the first trip I have even considered doing it, as I had always thought of it as too touristy (my bad). We probably would have gotten to it if it weren't for the stomach thing...as it cost us essentially two nights. I wouldn't have done a cruise without Chaz.. Oh well, always next time.

Denise, the great thing about Paris is that there are always things on the "next time" list which makes one want to return.
Do you agree?

Denise: congratulations! Great report and super great photos, they just gave me a whole trip to Paris, as an armchair traveler. Some photos brought back memories of places we saw, and some made me vow to go back soon! What a treat!

Denisea.......oh how awful to be sick in Paris, not to mention losing luggage!!! You and your husband certainly made the best of it though. Loved your pictures. Welcome back.

Oh, tomrarot...of course, I agree whole heartedly. I don't think I will ever be "done" with Paris. We have only been back for a week and I already am aware of things we missed!!

Thanks taconictraveler....I really do love seeing the photos, mine and everyone else's! BuffaloGirl, so great to hear from you!

Love the photos!!

Will miss reading your reports every morning with my breakfast. Hope I can write some just as good in May. We always take the 9pm cruise on the Seine and even after 7 times it still is just as romantic and fun and bring along a good bottle of bubbly makes it even more fun!

Your words and beautiful pictures brought back memories from our first trip to Paris a couple of years ago. We were enchanted by the city and its people and can't wait to return. You became ill, but persevered. Wonderful trip report!
And, yes, take an evening cruise on the Seine.

Thanks...didn't know you can take your own bubbly on a Seine cruise! We will take one next trip-I am sure!

------My morning coffee was so much more enjoyable while viewing your photos of Paris.

So many memories plus some new sights. It's always fun viewing Paris through someone else's eyes.

After all of the posts by Fodorites who love Paris, I sort of feel like we know each other. Sharing our adventures feels like being there over and over again.

Oh Denisea, I'm so sorry you were ill on this trip. Having stayed in the Kir apartment in October I cannot imagine being that ill in that tiny bathroom.

The Sainte Chapelle is stunning, so glad you were able to visit it before the terrible illness struck. I enjoyed your photos very much.

Thanks to you, denisea, I got my flu shot yesterday. The thought of missing any play days in Paris pushed me to do it! Merci beaucoup!

Hi Denisea
I've enjoyed reading your report It was like daily treat and I am impressed with how quickly you got it done I love your writing style. I am sorry that you and Chaz got sick on your trip. I got sick on my second trip to Paris, so I know how much it sucks.

Hi Denise, a Debbie Downer you are not. Your enthusiasim comes through loud and clear in your writing and in your photos. Thankyou for such a great trip report. My wife and I enjoyed it very much and look forward to your next Paris trip report

TPAYT, you definitely are right- I really do feel like I know so many of you. It's part of the fun of the forum!

Beachgirl-you just have to get a flu shot; you would really be kicking yourself if you got the flu! Too easy to prevent, so a smart move. So much that you can't prevent, so I like improving my odds.

It's been enlightening to hear how many of you have also had the misfortune of getting sick in Paris or on vacation. That's a nasty little joke the universe plays on us!!

Scootoir-it was a challenge to be sick in that little bathroom! We were both laughing on Sunday, as we passed the Plaza Athenee, that if you have to be sick on vaca, that might be the best place to be sick!

denisea, you are right as I would be kicking myself if I got the flu. Last trip over Christmas - New Year's Eve I got strep at the end and missed my last day in Paris. I was dead to the world on the flight home and worried I wouldn't be allowed on the plane. This year I am traveling with meds just in case as there are too many new restaurants and chocolate shops I have to try!

Only 5 days until Paris!

Oh gosh, FIVE days! I know you are about to explode with excitement. I will wish excellent health on your trip and mountains of wonderful chocolates and pastries!

Bon Voyage and Joyeux Noel!!

Merci beaucoup, mon ami!

Denise,
We arrived in Paris just after you left and stayed in Sancerre. Your trip report was very interesting - highlighting the challenges you faced and also the fun you had. We felt the same way. We had rain almost every day including some real downpours and even hail. But we still had a great time! We also enjoyed Joan's hospitality and sage advice. We can't wait to go back.

Glad to hear your trip went well..sorry about the rain. We had very little while we were there! I knew Joan said you were arriving after us...she is just great, isn't she.

I look forward to your T/R!

denisea, I thought of you today when I was buying groceries for the Ile St. Louis apartment - first up -- Coke Light! Sorry to say that Berthillon still has no butter salted caramel. I'm hopeful, though.

Don't give up BeachGirl...hopefully, they will have it before you leave. Beg Berthillon if you have to. It is heaven!

I would love to be on the Ile St Louis today! Have fun. Thanks for thinking of me...maybe an endorsement deal is not far behind!

BeachGirl247, enjoy your stay. We rented on rue de Bourbon in September and loved our time on Isle St Louis. That's what so phenomenal about Paris...we've stayed all over and remember each stay fondly and want to return.

I will not give up! I had the salted caramel ice cream last Christmas at Fous de L'Ile and it was delicious! There were a lot of kids there today so I will try tomorrow for a new flavor.

Hi Judy, we are enjoying our stay very much here again. With our views and the island's local charm I'm very happy staying here. Again and again. I think it stems from our very first visit to Paris. It was a cold, grey February and started to sprinkle. We were walking on Ile St Louis and no rain could change what a memorable day we had. It has brought us back year after year!

Hello to all of you who are or soon will be staying on the Ile st. Louis. How lucky you are!
Joyeux Noel!

Denisea, Did you use Victor for roundtrip in and out of Paris? Were you satisfied?
We only used him for return trip to CDG.

Denise...

I have just now finished reading your report and have to say I loved every word. I'll check out your pictures next!

I've been home from my Strasbourg/Paris trip for 3 days and feel like a slacker for not starting my trip report yet! I will get it started eventually!

cornelius01...we only used Victor for the return. Our original plan to take the RER into Paris was scrapped after the AF luggage debacle, so we grabbed a cab in the queue.

We were very satisfied with the service. Very nice vehicle, a few minutes early, quick ride and a competitive upfront price to CDG. I would book him again.

The return ride was only slightly more than the fare into Paris (58 euros) but we have paid more in the past when traffic is horrible!! The meter read 65.45 and we paid 65 euros (quoted upfront from our location). The drop off location was not the same as the pick up location, also.

Sometimes it's just worth the money to have no hassles. After being so sick, I didn't want to deal with bags and stairs on the way out of town.

LCI...I actually love writing the T/R and Chaz makes fun of me for working on it as soon as we get back!!

Thanks Denisea,was wondering why Joan likes Shuttle Inter instead and Paris Perfect recommends Victor and also figured he would know where their office is and that he could also call them to let them know we are on our way. Too many times we landed at CDG and had to use their pay phones to try to call apartment owners.....not fun after flying all night!

Victor was a no show for us at CDG in October. We ended up with a taxi from the que outside the terminal.

Shuttle-Inter is a little less expensive than Victor....perhaps she started using them before she started staying exclusively at Paris Perfect apartments.
We use Shuttle-Inter and haven't experienced problems, though others have. I think no shows are possible with any of these services but as long as we don't have to pay up front, the taxi queue is there if we need it. I don't know how many vehicles these particular services have and I suppose a couple could be dealing with late arrivals, traffic issues, manifestations, etc.

We used Victor for our trip two weeks ago. Driver was right on time both inbound and outbound. Plus I like the fact that the driver calls the PP office for you and they know where all of the aprtments are. That being said we have also used Shuttle-Inter several times in the past with no problems

I know Joan has used Victor at times. If I remember correctly, she uses Shuttle-Inter because it is less expensive than Victor.

I have seen positive & negative about Shuttle and I am sure the same is true of any topic or question you ask. (Just as Judy stated)...I am sure in most cases either works fine for most!

I do like the conveniences that waterdog mentioned for using Victor.

I'm never as concerned on arrival as I am about the pick-up to the airport. At CDG there are always options....at the apartment, not so much!

Judy- agreed. Can always get a cab in queue at CDG.

Cornelius01....there is a taxi stand just down the street from the Kir. Turn right out of the apartment and left at the corner onto Ave de la Bourdonnais (opposite way from bus stop and tabac) and there is a taxi stand at the next block, just before where Ave Rapp and de la Bourdonais intersect. It will be on the right, still on Ave de la Bourdonnais.

You can see it on Google maps street view.

Loved your report on your trip at Christmas & also this one (sans sickness!). We are trying to decide when to go to Paris later this year or next. I like the idea of Thanksgiving as we could see the Christmas lights & still hopefully have some nice weather and greenery. However, there was something so magical about your Christmas pics that I keep feeling drawn to the beauty of Paris during that time.

I would appreciate any insight you have on the difference.

Thanks!

topeater...imagine my surprise to see this T/R topped off.

If I have to vote, I would give Christmas a slight edge. The Champs Elysee markets were open while we were there and Christmas decor was up, but not everywhere. We did have milder weather at Thanksgiving and we enjoyed out trip. But, there was something extra special at Christmas.

One huge plus to Thanksgiving, is far fewer crowds and lines at some of the sites. If you still have a lot of sites you want to see, it is a great time to avoid the crowds. Paris is great anytime, but our Christmas trip was pure magic. And we still talk about it often. Another positive about Thanksgiving,was being able to come and look forward to the Holidays.

Have you been at Christmas?