Snakes on a Plane? Our Thanksgiving in Paris!
Nov 30th, 2011, 02:24 PM
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Denisea, sorry about all your hassles in travel! As we always say as we're preparing to travel, "Pack Your Patience!" and you really needed it. Glad that you were able to re-group and enjoy your trip. We're amazed that you have already begun a report, and will eagerly follow each chapter. Thanks so much for your generous sharing of info. Your apartment in the 7th sounds wonderful, and has us second guessing about our hotel in the 6th. Oh well! There's always a next time.
Nov 30th, 2011, 02:46 PM
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tomarkot, preferences vary quite a bit. We prefer the 6th to the 7th so don't feel bad about your hotel. We've had 20+ awesome Paris visits staying in apartments and hotels all over the city and really cannot complain about any. All areas of Paris have pluses and negatives and any location allows one to savr whatever that area has to offer.
denisea, following closely and hoping your problems are quickly resolved and you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!
denisea, following closely and hoping your problems are quickly resolved and you had a wonderful Thanksgiving!
Nov 30th, 2011, 03:18 PM
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tomarkot....no worries! We LOVE the 6th and you will see that we hang out in our old 'hood there quite a bit on this trip. No need to second guess. I am still not sure which I prefer and it is harder to compare since this was our first time in an apartment. I agree with Judy....don't give it another thought!
Dec 1st, 2011, 02:34 AM
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“He who does not travel does not know the value of men”….Moorish proverb
Day 2 of our Thanksgiving holiday in Paris
We didn’t get up too early this morning. Chaz is in love with the Neospresso espresso maker in the Kir! Simple to use and great coffee. Now, if you remember from last year, Chaz MUST go to Starbucks every day. (Hence, last year’s nickname, Mr. Starbucks). We had one conveniently located right by the hotel last year (to my dismay). This year, there was one not too far, but I will let you in on one thing now, he never went to Starbucks! He enjoyed making his coffee everyday with the magical device! Can you believe it? He would make it and sit by the window and enjoy our little view of Paris before heading out.
Scraping enough euro coins to buy single tickets for the RER train to St Michel. Line forming behind us...orry, sorry!! Flustered and used the wrong entrance. At platform, I realized we are going to be going the wrong way. First day “stupid attack”! Maybe I should have stopped for a pastry! Chaz had seen the other entrance, so out and back in and the tickets still worked fortunately!
RER C train to St Michel and on to Ste Chappelle. The line doesn’t look too bad. Got in the wrong one at first. But, the first day” stupids” are wearing off and I realize it quickly (since we were not going to court). Over to the right security line, very short wait, through security and over to buy tickets. No line at all, so we bought our Paris Museum Pass (which I ordinarily would have bought somewhere else the day before). One of the great things about going to Paris in November…short lines, if any! If I hadn’t already been hearing the angels sing, in my own head, of course because of the easy way in…well I really heard them upon walking into Sainte Chapelle.
Did I mention it was sunny? Oh, my God. This is spectacular. The stained glass is just incredible. The intricacies of the carvings and the glass. This is very ornate. I can only imagine how wonderful it must be to hear a concert at Sainte Chapelle.
If you have never been, you simply must do so. I think it could have been even more beautiful later when the sun was higher in the sky. How is something like this even possible? I really am in awe and so very glad to have finally made it here. It is a small place but truly inspiring. No snakes here.
Now, don’t think we weren’t talking about the bag though, while walking to St Germain to visit the old ‘hood. I am getting hungry for breakfast. Chaz has a plan. His favorite meal from last trip was at Le Comptoir in the 6th. The beef cheeks and come to think of it, it was my meal! But they really are to die for.
The plan is hatched. No reservations for lunch at Le Comptoir but it opens at noon. We will see what the line looks like and try to get in. We will have petit dejeuner at Danton then shop a bit, visit the old haunts and see if we can get in to Le Comptoir for the holy grail of Paris meals.
We walk down rue St Andre des Arts. And then I see it…the little side street (Cour de Commerce St Andre) where Un Dimanche a Paris is! We check it out. It is beautiful place with a restaurant attached. Maybe it is the adult, French version of being in Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory. Everything in the case is beautiful! The tarts, the macarons, the chocolats, everything. Thanks Lillia! We will back later to purchase.
The street spits us out on Blvd St Germain across from Danton. It draws us like a magnet and we run over to Danton for petit dejeuner. Danton was our little hangout last year and we feel comfortable there. I love that fresh squeezed orange juice. I don’t drink juice at home, at all. But it hits the spot and Chaz got a coffee fix, so we headed over to St Sulpice. The fountains were pretty in the sun but the Christmas market was not up yet. A little more window shopping and then it was time to check the queue outside Le Comptoir.
Maybe 15-16 people in line! We will get in. So, we wait about 15 minutes and get one of the last tables inside (although later we wished we were sitting outside). It is super cramped in Le Comptoir. And sadly, we recognized the server we had on our first visit last year (Madame Lent I have nicknamed her).
Not a personable girl and she gives new meaning to disinterested and well, rude. Think Lilith from Cheers, and you know what we mean. Looks and demeanor. We knew we were in for a wait, but if they have the beef cheeks, well we can endure this chick again.
And wait, we did! For everything…to order, for our wine which sat on “le comptoir” for-ever, for carafe d’eau, wait, wait, wait. In fact, it is almost amusing. We found it funny to watch how many times she walked past our wine without getting it. She is powerful, non? We had to reassure the poor Japanese girls seated next to us, that it wasn’t them and that she treats everyone like this and that they would eventually be allowed to order. You could see the frustration and confusion on their faces as they foolishly tried to get Madame’s attention.
Well, we did get those beef cheeks…the food comes out fast here despite Madame Lent. I had roast chicken and mashed potatoes and Chaz, the coveted beef cheeks. I had hoped for their lobster bisque, but not this time. The food was terrific and the service, whatever.
I had to go through this because I would be dragging Chaz to another church that was 13 Metro stops away. Not that I mind, but you ask for things when the other person has gotten what they want and are happy.
And so we were off to St. Denis at long last. The metro was packed! When we emerged it was definitely a different side of Paris. Still sunny and the sound of Caribbean/African music made us think we had taken the Metro to the islands.
But we rounded the corner to the lovely church and resting place of French kings.
It’s a marvelous church and the sun really shone through the stained glass. We used our museum passes to enter the crypt section of the church. All the effigies throughout the crypt are like a history lesson. As an American, I am always amazed to see dating on things from the 1100s. We just don’t have that kind of history here. We encountered a very boisterous field trip while there. No way to get kids that young to be quiet and reserved. Chaz decided to have a little fun with me and “locked” me in one of the downstairs crypts. Somewhere, there’s a photo. I especially wanted to see the site for Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI. I read a great biography on her before last year’s trip and there was a photo of it included. The book had mentioned that the clothing had been updated to what was current then and not what she would have worn. I was more noticing the amazing Wonderbra they must have envisioned her in. She is popping out of her top. A Victoria's Secret model would be proud! We both thoroughly enjoyed our time at St Denis and were glad we made a point to go on this trip.
We had such a fun day. So, back to the Kir to check on that missing bag. Would there be any news at all? I could hear the snakes hissing as I dialed the number. But, I was hopeful. I entered the claim number. “I am sorry, our system does not recognize the number you entered, please enter a valid number”. Sssssssssssssss! I trudged through all the prompts to get a live agent. We spoke and he checked on it. "Yes, ma’am. It was set to be delivered between 10am -2pm today". It was 4pm. Where? He had the right address (which was a cleaners on rue St Dominique, set up by the PP office since they are open and someone is always there). Apparently, they spoke to PP the day before and let them know the bag had been found and that it would be delivered today. PP had left us a voice mail at the apartment but never told us in our orientation that we even HAD voice mail in the apartment.
We hurried over to the cleaners, afraid it was all a joke. I opened the door and there it was. The bag is here, it’s really here. We thanked the owner of the cleaners profusely. And on the way home, I saw the perfect way to celebrate. A fresh strawberry tart. It was so very good and is one of my favorite things to have from a French bakery. That crust! That pastry cream! Those strawberries! So simple and so darn good. The bag is here, it’s really here. AND, everything was still inside it. All’s well that ends well (not really, I still have it in for AF and they will hear from me).
We rested up, cleaned up and headed over to the Fleurie apartment to see Joan. We had some wine and got the tour of the apartment. Very spacious and very nice. I could live there. We could ALL live there. We all had a laugh over us having to go back to the little Kir after seeing the Fleurie. Joan also will always have a special place in Chaz’ heart, as she gave him all of her dark coffee pods for the coffee machine.
We walked to Le Florimond for dinner and were greeted by Florent, who is so fun, upbeat and welcoming. The restaurant is charming and I started with the pumpkin veloute. Chaz let Florent choose his meal and he started with a salad of oranges, greens and salmon. He loved it and Joan and I thought it looked so refreshing. Joan had lobster ravioli.
Our main courses were risotto with langoustines and some squid ink (Joan and me) and rabbit with carrot puree and roasted parsnips for Chaz. They were both really good but I think the jet lag caught up with me and I eat very little when really tired. I hate that in France because they are always afraid you don’t like it if you don’t finish. We still had dessert. Joan and I were in cahoots over the millefeuille for Chaz. It is HUGE. Not really traditional but it is tons of puff pastry with mountains of Chantilly!! Just for good measure, we also got the assortment of desserts that had small servings of about 10 things! Seriously.
Here is what the selection included (to best of my memory): pannacotta with passion fruit, a citrus sorbet, two little chocolate cakes, some sort of deep chocolate disc with a sesame tuille atop it, a whipped fromage blanc, some sort of banana paste, a green crème brulee, a slice of a frozen nougat and a mousse (not sure what). The sorbet and fromage blanc were my favs! We had a marvelous time, walked back and said goodnight to Joan.
The end of a great day in Paris. The end of the snake bites? You’ll have to read on to sssssee.
Wednesday’s plan: Climbing the towers at Notre Dame, L’Orangerie museum and L’Orangerie restaurant on Ile St Louis for lunch, plus dinner at Reed.
Day 2 of our Thanksgiving holiday in Paris
We didn’t get up too early this morning. Chaz is in love with the Neospresso espresso maker in the Kir! Simple to use and great coffee. Now, if you remember from last year, Chaz MUST go to Starbucks every day. (Hence, last year’s nickname, Mr. Starbucks). We had one conveniently located right by the hotel last year (to my dismay). This year, there was one not too far, but I will let you in on one thing now, he never went to Starbucks! He enjoyed making his coffee everyday with the magical device! Can you believe it? He would make it and sit by the window and enjoy our little view of Paris before heading out.
Scraping enough euro coins to buy single tickets for the RER train to St Michel. Line forming behind us...orry, sorry!! Flustered and used the wrong entrance. At platform, I realized we are going to be going the wrong way. First day “stupid attack”! Maybe I should have stopped for a pastry! Chaz had seen the other entrance, so out and back in and the tickets still worked fortunately!
RER C train to St Michel and on to Ste Chappelle. The line doesn’t look too bad. Got in the wrong one at first. But, the first day” stupids” are wearing off and I realize it quickly (since we were not going to court). Over to the right security line, very short wait, through security and over to buy tickets. No line at all, so we bought our Paris Museum Pass (which I ordinarily would have bought somewhere else the day before). One of the great things about going to Paris in November…short lines, if any! If I hadn’t already been hearing the angels sing, in my own head, of course because of the easy way in…well I really heard them upon walking into Sainte Chapelle.
Did I mention it was sunny? Oh, my God. This is spectacular. The stained glass is just incredible. The intricacies of the carvings and the glass. This is very ornate. I can only imagine how wonderful it must be to hear a concert at Sainte Chapelle.
If you have never been, you simply must do so. I think it could have been even more beautiful later when the sun was higher in the sky. How is something like this even possible? I really am in awe and so very glad to have finally made it here. It is a small place but truly inspiring. No snakes here.
Now, don’t think we weren’t talking about the bag though, while walking to St Germain to visit the old ‘hood. I am getting hungry for breakfast. Chaz has a plan. His favorite meal from last trip was at Le Comptoir in the 6th. The beef cheeks and come to think of it, it was my meal! But they really are to die for.
The plan is hatched. No reservations for lunch at Le Comptoir but it opens at noon. We will see what the line looks like and try to get in. We will have petit dejeuner at Danton then shop a bit, visit the old haunts and see if we can get in to Le Comptoir for the holy grail of Paris meals.
We walk down rue St Andre des Arts. And then I see it…the little side street (Cour de Commerce St Andre) where Un Dimanche a Paris is! We check it out. It is beautiful place with a restaurant attached. Maybe it is the adult, French version of being in Willie Wonka’s chocolate factory. Everything in the case is beautiful! The tarts, the macarons, the chocolats, everything. Thanks Lillia! We will back later to purchase.
The street spits us out on Blvd St Germain across from Danton. It draws us like a magnet and we run over to Danton for petit dejeuner. Danton was our little hangout last year and we feel comfortable there. I love that fresh squeezed orange juice. I don’t drink juice at home, at all. But it hits the spot and Chaz got a coffee fix, so we headed over to St Sulpice. The fountains were pretty in the sun but the Christmas market was not up yet. A little more window shopping and then it was time to check the queue outside Le Comptoir.
Maybe 15-16 people in line! We will get in. So, we wait about 15 minutes and get one of the last tables inside (although later we wished we were sitting outside). It is super cramped in Le Comptoir. And sadly, we recognized the server we had on our first visit last year (Madame Lent I have nicknamed her).
Not a personable girl and she gives new meaning to disinterested and well, rude. Think Lilith from Cheers, and you know what we mean. Looks and demeanor. We knew we were in for a wait, but if they have the beef cheeks, well we can endure this chick again.And wait, we did! For everything…to order, for our wine which sat on “le comptoir” for-ever, for carafe d’eau, wait, wait, wait. In fact, it is almost amusing. We found it funny to watch how many times she walked past our wine without getting it. She is powerful, non? We had to reassure the poor Japanese girls seated next to us, that it wasn’t them and that she treats everyone like this and that they would eventually be allowed to order. You could see the frustration and confusion on their faces as they foolishly tried to get Madame’s attention.
Well, we did get those beef cheeks…the food comes out fast here despite Madame Lent. I had roast chicken and mashed potatoes and Chaz, the coveted beef cheeks. I had hoped for their lobster bisque, but not this time. The food was terrific and the service, whatever.
I had to go through this because I would be dragging Chaz to another church that was 13 Metro stops away. Not that I mind, but you ask for things when the other person has gotten what they want and are happy.
And so we were off to St. Denis at long last. The metro was packed! When we emerged it was definitely a different side of Paris. Still sunny and the sound of Caribbean/African music made us think we had taken the Metro to the islands.
But we rounded the corner to the lovely church and resting place of French kings.
It’s a marvelous church and the sun really shone through the stained glass. We used our museum passes to enter the crypt section of the church. All the effigies throughout the crypt are like a history lesson. As an American, I am always amazed to see dating on things from the 1100s. We just don’t have that kind of history here. We encountered a very boisterous field trip while there. No way to get kids that young to be quiet and reserved. Chaz decided to have a little fun with me and “locked” me in one of the downstairs crypts. Somewhere, there’s a photo. I especially wanted to see the site for Marie Antoinette and Louis XVI. I read a great biography on her before last year’s trip and there was a photo of it included. The book had mentioned that the clothing had been updated to what was current then and not what she would have worn. I was more noticing the amazing Wonderbra they must have envisioned her in. She is popping out of her top. A Victoria's Secret model would be proud! We both thoroughly enjoyed our time at St Denis and were glad we made a point to go on this trip.
We had such a fun day. So, back to the Kir to check on that missing bag. Would there be any news at all? I could hear the snakes hissing as I dialed the number. But, I was hopeful. I entered the claim number. “I am sorry, our system does not recognize the number you entered, please enter a valid number”. Sssssssssssssss! I trudged through all the prompts to get a live agent. We spoke and he checked on it. "Yes, ma’am. It was set to be delivered between 10am -2pm today". It was 4pm. Where? He had the right address (which was a cleaners on rue St Dominique, set up by the PP office since they are open and someone is always there). Apparently, they spoke to PP the day before and let them know the bag had been found and that it would be delivered today. PP had left us a voice mail at the apartment but never told us in our orientation that we even HAD voice mail in the apartment.
We hurried over to the cleaners, afraid it was all a joke. I opened the door and there it was. The bag is here, it’s really here. We thanked the owner of the cleaners profusely. And on the way home, I saw the perfect way to celebrate. A fresh strawberry tart. It was so very good and is one of my favorite things to have from a French bakery. That crust! That pastry cream! Those strawberries! So simple and so darn good. The bag is here, it’s really here. AND, everything was still inside it. All’s well that ends well (not really, I still have it in for AF and they will hear from me).
We rested up, cleaned up and headed over to the Fleurie apartment to see Joan. We had some wine and got the tour of the apartment. Very spacious and very nice. I could live there. We could ALL live there. We all had a laugh over us having to go back to the little Kir after seeing the Fleurie. Joan also will always have a special place in Chaz’ heart, as she gave him all of her dark coffee pods for the coffee machine.
We walked to Le Florimond for dinner and were greeted by Florent, who is so fun, upbeat and welcoming. The restaurant is charming and I started with the pumpkin veloute. Chaz let Florent choose his meal and he started with a salad of oranges, greens and salmon. He loved it and Joan and I thought it looked so refreshing. Joan had lobster ravioli.
Our main courses were risotto with langoustines and some squid ink (Joan and me) and rabbit with carrot puree and roasted parsnips for Chaz. They were both really good but I think the jet lag caught up with me and I eat very little when really tired. I hate that in France because they are always afraid you don’t like it if you don’t finish. We still had dessert. Joan and I were in cahoots over the millefeuille for Chaz. It is HUGE. Not really traditional but it is tons of puff pastry with mountains of Chantilly!! Just for good measure, we also got the assortment of desserts that had small servings of about 10 things! Seriously.
Here is what the selection included (to best of my memory): pannacotta with passion fruit, a citrus sorbet, two little chocolate cakes, some sort of deep chocolate disc with a sesame tuille atop it, a whipped fromage blanc, some sort of banana paste, a green crème brulee, a slice of a frozen nougat and a mousse (not sure what). The sorbet and fromage blanc were my favs! We had a marvelous time, walked back and said goodnight to Joan.
The end of a great day in Paris. The end of the snake bites? You’ll have to read on to sssssee.
Wednesday’s plan: Climbing the towers at Notre Dame, L’Orangerie museum and L’Orangerie restaurant on Ile St Louis for lunch, plus dinner at Reed.
Dec 1st, 2011, 04:31 AM
#27
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Not that I mind, but you ask for things when the other person has gotten what they want and are happy.
_________________
That was true for DH and me. If either of us had desire to see a particular place, it was just wise to go there first.
Loving your report. That first view of Ste. Chappelle remains in my heart. The nondescript first level and then POW!
_________________
That was true for DH and me. If either of us had desire to see a particular place, it was just wise to go there first.
Loving your report. That first view of Ste. Chappelle remains in my heart. The nondescript first level and then POW!
Dec 1st, 2011, 06:04 AM
#28
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And aren't Paris Museum Passes great? My only objection was we were in Paris for three full days and had to buy the pass for either 2 or 4 days...oh well. It was great to zip into all the sights, even Versailles.
The pass doesn't include the Eiffel Tower, so I had pre-booked a "Behind the Scenes" tour, which allowed us to bypass the line there as well. Pretty great. Interested to hear the rest of your report.
The pass doesn't include the Eiffel Tower, so I had pre-booked a "Behind the Scenes" tour, which allowed us to bypass the line there as well. Pretty great. Interested to hear the rest of your report.
Dec 1st, 2011, 06:54 AM
#29
That fresh squeezed orange juice-----I never drink it at home either, but each morning in Paris MDH would head off to get baguettes, pastry and then to another shop on Ile St. Louis for that F.S.O.J. The shop had a big machine where the oranges would clunk around and pour the tasty juice into a carafe. Memories.......
St. Chapelle-----I must ask if anyone knows the quote that says something like "Oh, to stand in the light of St. Chapelle?" I read it somewhere and always think of it when I am there or read about St. Chapelle.
You are definitely brightening up these cold gray days with your excellent details of Paris.
St. Chapelle-----I must ask if anyone knows the quote that says something like "Oh, to stand in the light of St. Chapelle?" I read it somewhere and always think of it when I am there or read about St. Chapelle.
You are definitely brightening up these cold gray days with your excellent details of Paris.
Dec 1st, 2011, 07:25 AM
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Fromage blanc is one of my favorite things in the world (fromage blanc ice cream is pretty good, too).
Wow, no Starbucks for Chaz. So does that mean you didn't need your Coca Light with ice? ;-)
Great report, and I agree with apersuader65 - there goes my day!
Wow, no Starbucks for Chaz. So does that mean you didn't need your Coca Light with ice? ;-)
Great report, and I agree with apersuader65 - there goes my day!
Dec 1st, 2011, 09:09 AM
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I saw a concert at Ste. Chappelle about three weeks ago. It was amazing. A string quartet playing Mozart, Beethoven, you name it. Since the windows are not lit at night, you then concentrate on all of the other amazing features of the chapel. The detailed paint and tiles, the statues and of course the sounds echoing through the place. I highly recommend it to anyone.
Dec 1st, 2011, 10:08 AM
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Your story of Madame Lent made me think of the "Curb Your Enthusiasm" episode from this past season where Larry tires of a slow waiter and goes and gets his food from the counter...
Enjoying your travelogue immenssssssely. ;^)
Enjoying your travelogue immenssssssely. ;^)
Dec 1st, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Denisea, we're continuing to enjoy your report, and were very interested in the the finale of your lost luggage saga. What an inconvenience and waste of precious time!
We're intending to visit St. Denis, and were wondering if there were some nice restaurants in the area to have lunch?
We're intending to visit St. Denis, and were wondering if there were some nice restaurants in the area to have lunch?
Dec 1st, 2011, 11:38 AM
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YankyGal...I had less Coke Light than usual and only had ice with it when brought in cafes! I never even bothered to look for the ice trays in the apartment. I will say that it tastes like Coke Zero to me. I did have one bottle of DC with me that I bought in the ATL airport that I made last for a few days. I did not horrify anyone by ordering a diet coke at breakfast like I did last year.
And I have had creole cream cheese ice cream in New Orleans which is more similar to fromage blanc. Quite good!
ParisAmsterdam...hilarious! I am glad you got the joke with Madame Lent. I never complain about Paris servers, but she is text book!
tomarkot...there were some little cafes on the square/plaza outside the church that should be good. That's really a question for Kerouac. Maybe he will see this and post.
TPAYT...they have one of those machines at the cafe at Petit Palais.
Thanks to all for your nice comments. Nice to know it is being read and enjoyed. Lotta love out there for Ste Chapelle, isn't there?
And I have had creole cream cheese ice cream in New Orleans which is more similar to fromage blanc. Quite good!
ParisAmsterdam...hilarious! I am glad you got the joke with Madame Lent. I never complain about Paris servers, but she is text book!
tomarkot...there were some little cafes on the square/plaza outside the church that should be good. That's really a question for Kerouac. Maybe he will see this and post.
TPAYT...they have one of those machines at the cafe at Petit Palais.
Thanks to all for your nice comments. Nice to know it is being read and enjoyed. Lotta love out there for Ste Chapelle, isn't there?
Dec 1st, 2011, 12:25 PM
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Denise - I picked up a six-pack of what I thought was Coca Light at the grocery store when we first got to Paris. When I got one out to drink later, I saw that I had actually bought Coca Light Lemon which was delicious. Wish we had it here. Have you tried it?
Dec 1st, 2011, 04:35 PM
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Loving your report! My DH used to horrify the French by ordering a diet coke with breakfast! I have now gotten him to have a hot chocolate. He has never been a coffee drinker.
I look forward to each of your posts. Thank you!
I look forward to each of your posts. Thank you!
