Ribera del Duero--which bodega(s) should we visit?
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Ribera del Duero--which bodega(s) should we visit?
Hi y'all from Virginia!
Well, we leave for España in exactly 4 weeks. Needless to say, we're excited. Most of our plans are in place: 2 nights in Segovia, a night at the Parador in Lerma, 2 nights in Salamanca, then on to Semana Santa at our Madrid apartment in the Retiro barrio. But there's one question I have yet to ask: which Bodega in the Ribera del Duero should we visit? We get into Lerma on a Friday evening (after stopping in Pedraza and...maybe...Sepulveda on the way). Then we'll head to Salamanca. We want to stop in Peñafiel on the way to see the wine museum at the castle--which sounds great--but a winery visit sounds really exciting. Here's what we are looking for:
--unpretentious attitude
--on the smaller side, or at least not too Mondavi-like
--fairly close to Peñafiel
--would take an appointment on Saturday
--somewhat inexpensive wines (I work for Trader Joe's so value is important!)
--kid-friendly (our 2 girls aged 8 and 12 will be with my wife and I)
--wines that are well-made but don't need to be the best of the best
Given the sheer number of bodegas (over 200) I am at a total loss as to where to begin. Any Fodorian help would be muy apreciada!
--dan
Well, we leave for España in exactly 4 weeks. Needless to say, we're excited. Most of our plans are in place: 2 nights in Segovia, a night at the Parador in Lerma, 2 nights in Salamanca, then on to Semana Santa at our Madrid apartment in the Retiro barrio. But there's one question I have yet to ask: which Bodega in the Ribera del Duero should we visit? We get into Lerma on a Friday evening (after stopping in Pedraza and...maybe...Sepulveda on the way). Then we'll head to Salamanca. We want to stop in Peñafiel on the way to see the wine museum at the castle--which sounds great--but a winery visit sounds really exciting. Here's what we are looking for:
--unpretentious attitude
--on the smaller side, or at least not too Mondavi-like
--fairly close to Peñafiel
--would take an appointment on Saturday
--somewhat inexpensive wines (I work for Trader Joe's so value is important!)
--kid-friendly (our 2 girls aged 8 and 12 will be with my wife and I)
--wines that are well-made but don't need to be the best of the best
Given the sheer number of bodegas (over 200) I am at a total loss as to where to begin. Any Fodorian help would be muy apreciada!
--dan
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For sheer convenience, since you'll be in Lerma then go on your way to Salamanca, I would certainly visit the Bodegas Protos, which is IN Peñafiel itself, right below the wine museum in the castle, and a design of Richard Rogers. www.bodegasprotos.com
Email them at [email protected]
Or Emina in Valbuena de Duero, which also has Saturday visits.
www.emina.es
Email them at [email protected]
Or Emina in Valbuena de Duero, which also has Saturday visits.
www.emina.es
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Another possibility, Emilio Moro in Pesquera del Duero.
www.emiliomoro.com
www.emiliomoro.com
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Alamedadan,
The area between Peñafiel and Quintanilla de Onésimo (including Pesquera de Duero and Valbuena de Duero) is considered Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, so the wineries in this stretch will all produce great wines. The 2004 and 2001 vintages have been designated as "excellent" years by the D.O.
All of the wineries do require a prior reservation for a visit, and some are a bit slow at answering emails. To secure a reservation may require a phone call.
Spain is one of the most kid-friendly countries on the planet, so it will be fine to bring your girls along. We do a lot of Spain winery touring and always see children on our winery visits.
Tours take at least one hour, so I would allow plenty of time for your drive from Lerma to Salamanca for your guided tour of the Peñafiel castle and a winery along the way.
If you have time for only one, the easiest would be the aforementioned Bodegas Protos, and I simply wouldn't miss it (at least for a photo op) because it's one of the most talked about RdelD wineries now architecturally.
And Protos uses the miles of tunnels and galleries below the castle for its aging process.
Emilio Moro would also be a quick, easy detour for you, since Pesquera is only about 6 km. away. Both Vintage Spain and Cellar Tours (high end wine/gastronomy touring companies) visit Emilio Moro as part of their Ribera del Duero excursions. Tel: 983 878 400
And if you need a place for lunch in Peñafiel, Vintage Spain recommends Lagar de San Vicente in a winery cave next to the castle parking lot, only open for lunch on weekends (good wine prices and good roast baby lamb)-also Molino de Palacios in a 17th century flour mill.
www.molinodepalacios.com
The area between Peñafiel and Quintanilla de Onésimo (including Pesquera de Duero and Valbuena de Duero) is considered Ribera del Duero's Golden Mile, so the wineries in this stretch will all produce great wines. The 2004 and 2001 vintages have been designated as "excellent" years by the D.O.
All of the wineries do require a prior reservation for a visit, and some are a bit slow at answering emails. To secure a reservation may require a phone call.
Spain is one of the most kid-friendly countries on the planet, so it will be fine to bring your girls along. We do a lot of Spain winery touring and always see children on our winery visits.
Tours take at least one hour, so I would allow plenty of time for your drive from Lerma to Salamanca for your guided tour of the Peñafiel castle and a winery along the way.
If you have time for only one, the easiest would be the aforementioned Bodegas Protos, and I simply wouldn't miss it (at least for a photo op) because it's one of the most talked about RdelD wineries now architecturally.
And Protos uses the miles of tunnels and galleries below the castle for its aging process.
Emilio Moro would also be a quick, easy detour for you, since Pesquera is only about 6 km. away. Both Vintage Spain and Cellar Tours (high end wine/gastronomy touring companies) visit Emilio Moro as part of their Ribera del Duero excursions. Tel: 983 878 400
And if you need a place for lunch in Peñafiel, Vintage Spain recommends Lagar de San Vicente in a winery cave next to the castle parking lot, only open for lunch on weekends (good wine prices and good roast baby lamb)-also Molino de Palacios in a 17th century flour mill.
www.molinodepalacios.com