Quintessential rural Ireland
Apr 13th, 2010, 06:31 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Quintessential rural Ireland
Which areas would you say have the most general ambience with what I tend to picture as "the authentic" whatever that is Ireland? I am thinking of interesting small towns, rural farmsteads, local character, local pubs, places that are fairly clustered together rather than mostly uninhabited and desolate. The areas could be coastal or inland. Or, is this a figment of my imagination that there are such locales? I'm not looking for areas that have been overrun with lots of holiday home developments, modern large shops etc. And, I'm not looking for just great windswept scenic beauty. I don't need lots of tourist attractions or sites either. Thanks so much. I know some of you live in Ireland and some have done extensive traveling there.
Apr 13th, 2010, 06:44 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,313
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Pretty much the west will have lots of what you want. Stay out of the bigger cities and towns, like Galway or Westport - go to the smaller, less known places. Any place on Dingle would suit, Donegal, much of Mayo or Sligo. Kerry is a bit touristy, but you can still find towns that are relatively unspoiled.
Apr 13th, 2010, 07:30 AM
#3
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4,248
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Even in Killarney, often villified as excessively touristy, I didn't really see what you describe. I would still stay in Kenmare or somewhere else in that area instead, but it wasn't full of vacation homes or large stores, other than the mall (which is easily avoided). I've only been once, but based on my experience in some of the most popular destinations in the west/southwest, I think it would actually be somewhat difficult to find what you describe.
Apr 13th, 2010, 07:38 AM
#5
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 8,247
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm not sure if you are really looking for authenticity or rather well-preserved places. Any shopping mall around Limerick is more a authentic place than Adare.
Some touristy areas take great effort in avoiding to have a "modern" look, so the visitor will probably judge those towns or villages as "authentic" while it's more Disneyland than authenticity.
For me, the Golden Vale and neighboring regions in Northern Tipperary or Co. Offaly are authentic, but even those small towns "unspoiled" by tourism like Templemore and Thurles, or Nenagh, Roscrea and Birr greet their visitors with the ubiqitious Aldi or Tesco stores at the edge of town or a row of car dealers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Vale
Small towns of no more than four or five thousand inhabitants can serve a huge hinterland, so you often find a larger variety of modern day amenities like shopping malls, shops, or 24hrs supermarkets than in a town of the same size in, say, Germany. After all, those country folks also want their one-stop shopping and access to the 21st century.
I had my most *authentic* Irish experience during the first week of January when I had to spend two nights in a ghastly modern pub of an (almost) brand new Travelodge in North Dublin, a stone's throw away from the Ikea and the M50, with a handful of Irish guys who had either also been trapped by the snow and airport closure or lived nearby in the highrise low-rent apartment buildings with no other place to go.
Some touristy areas take great effort in avoiding to have a "modern" look, so the visitor will probably judge those towns or villages as "authentic" while it's more Disneyland than authenticity.
For me, the Golden Vale and neighboring regions in Northern Tipperary or Co. Offaly are authentic, but even those small towns "unspoiled" by tourism like Templemore and Thurles, or Nenagh, Roscrea and Birr greet their visitors with the ubiqitious Aldi or Tesco stores at the edge of town or a row of car dealers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golden_Vale
Small towns of no more than four or five thousand inhabitants can serve a huge hinterland, so you often find a larger variety of modern day amenities like shopping malls, shops, or 24hrs supermarkets than in a town of the same size in, say, Germany. After all, those country folks also want their one-stop shopping and access to the 21st century.
I had my most *authentic* Irish experience during the first week of January when I had to spend two nights in a ghastly modern pub of an (almost) brand new Travelodge in North Dublin, a stone's throw away from the Ikea and the M50, with a handful of Irish guys who had either also been trapped by the snow and airport closure or lived nearby in the highrise low-rent apartment buildings with no other place to go.
Apr 13th, 2010, 01:26 PM
#6
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,647
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There was a thread, long time back, that was asking about locations in Ireland. Here's what I said, then:
itallian_Chauffer on May 29, 08 at 11:25pm
Two excerpts from my trip report of a June, 2005 Trip to Ireland:
"Millstreet sits in northwest Co. Cork at a juncture of roads. From the south, the road up from Macroom passes through a gap between the Boggeragh Mountains to the east and the Derrynasaggart to the west. The River Finnow flows through, on its way to join the mighty Blackwater. It is an area, RICH in history.
When Ireland was first settled in the waning days of the last Ice Age, the area was inhabited by neolitic hunter gatherers, drawn to the mystical high places: the Paps, Clara Mountain, Mushera Mor and Beg. Ordinance Survey maps of the area show relics of that age dotting the landscape. There are raths, and cashels, standing stones, stone circles and rings scattered throughout; the most impressive collection being that at Knocknakilla. An Shrone (The City) is nearby.
During the Celtic Age, the area was home to the O’Keefe’s, McCarthy’s and the Sullivans and neighbor to the Malloys, Donovans and O’Driscolls. King Mahon was murdered atop Mushera while enroute to a ‘peace meeting’ with Malloy. The foul deed was done by the Desmond clans to remove the “upstart” from the throne of Munster and replace him with someone more pliable to their schemes. What they reaped, with their treachery instead, was Mahon’s younger brother -- Brian Boru.
When the Butter Road was built through town in the 1700's, it was a boon to the area. Millstreet bloomed as a convenient resting stop, mid-way between Cork City and Killarney. The 1800's were not so kind. When the railroad was built, the tracks were laid to avoid the village proper. The station sits out of town, to the north, victim to the fears and petty jealousies of the major Landlords in the Big Houses, the Protestant Wallis, the Leaders and the Catholic McCarthy-O'Leary. And so, the tourist trade passed Millstreet by and the town ceased to grow. The major highway (N72) from Mallow to Killarney bypasses Millstreet. A small, Regional Road 'loops down' to pass through town, on its way to reconnect with the N72, in Rathmore, Co. Kerry.
Today, Millstreet functions as a ‘bedroom’ community for Killarney , Cork City and Mallow; each being nearly equidistant. The Wallis’s sold out, in the ‘20’s, the Leader’s died out, or moved away and the last of the McCarthy-O’Leary’s ( relatives to the O”Connors of Caherdaniel) spends her days in Killarney. A local entrepreneur now owns the holdings of both Drishane and Coomlegane. The latter House was torn down. In its place stands Green Glen Arena, an equestrian showplace that hosts horse shows, music concerts and other events. In 1993 it was the site of the Eurovision competition, a major international event. Drishane Castle and estate, purchased with the intent to create a luxury hotel and resort, has instead become a haven and housing for an international assortment of refugees.
In short, there is nothing EXCEDINGLY REMARKABLE about Millstreet, but the sum total is greater than the individual parts. The people here are untainted by an overabundance of tourist trade and therefore, neither wear a mask of false greeting, nor display offence or rancor at the presence of outsiders. It is the real Ireland of the 21st century. It is a place of beauty, magic and peaceful reflection; improved by the march of time, yet not polluted by it. It is the land that my wife’s ancestors came from, and, in more ways than that, it is a land I would proudly call home. We chose to bring John and Pam here, just as we have brought some of his other brothers and sisters over the years, and his father, before that, so that they could experience that which mere words can not convey."
Full report: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34679685
The town's web site: http://www.millstreet.ie/
Nearby, are the ancient sites of An Shrone (The City) and Knocknakilla -- both old, when the pyramids were young ...
As I said -- Here, there be Giants.
It has been my priviledge, to walk in their shadow.
THERE IS AN AWARD-WINNING TRAIN STATION, WITH MULTIPLE, DAILY CONNECTIONS TO KILLARNEY, CORK CITY AND DUBLIN. WE RENTED A HOUSE THERE, FOR TWO WEEKS LAST SUMMER AND ARE SPENDING ANOTHER WEEK, THIS COMING JULY.
IT IS MY FAVORITE PLACE, IN ALL OF IRELAND.
Bob
itallian_Chauffer on May 29, 08 at 11:25pm
Two excerpts from my trip report of a June, 2005 Trip to Ireland:
"Millstreet sits in northwest Co. Cork at a juncture of roads. From the south, the road up from Macroom passes through a gap between the Boggeragh Mountains to the east and the Derrynasaggart to the west. The River Finnow flows through, on its way to join the mighty Blackwater. It is an area, RICH in history.
When Ireland was first settled in the waning days of the last Ice Age, the area was inhabited by neolitic hunter gatherers, drawn to the mystical high places: the Paps, Clara Mountain, Mushera Mor and Beg. Ordinance Survey maps of the area show relics of that age dotting the landscape. There are raths, and cashels, standing stones, stone circles and rings scattered throughout; the most impressive collection being that at Knocknakilla. An Shrone (The City) is nearby.
During the Celtic Age, the area was home to the O’Keefe’s, McCarthy’s and the Sullivans and neighbor to the Malloys, Donovans and O’Driscolls. King Mahon was murdered atop Mushera while enroute to a ‘peace meeting’ with Malloy. The foul deed was done by the Desmond clans to remove the “upstart” from the throne of Munster and replace him with someone more pliable to their schemes. What they reaped, with their treachery instead, was Mahon’s younger brother -- Brian Boru.
When the Butter Road was built through town in the 1700's, it was a boon to the area. Millstreet bloomed as a convenient resting stop, mid-way between Cork City and Killarney. The 1800's were not so kind. When the railroad was built, the tracks were laid to avoid the village proper. The station sits out of town, to the north, victim to the fears and petty jealousies of the major Landlords in the Big Houses, the Protestant Wallis, the Leaders and the Catholic McCarthy-O'Leary. And so, the tourist trade passed Millstreet by and the town ceased to grow. The major highway (N72) from Mallow to Killarney bypasses Millstreet. A small, Regional Road 'loops down' to pass through town, on its way to reconnect with the N72, in Rathmore, Co. Kerry.
Today, Millstreet functions as a ‘bedroom’ community for Killarney , Cork City and Mallow; each being nearly equidistant. The Wallis’s sold out, in the ‘20’s, the Leader’s died out, or moved away and the last of the McCarthy-O’Leary’s ( relatives to the O”Connors of Caherdaniel) spends her days in Killarney. A local entrepreneur now owns the holdings of both Drishane and Coomlegane. The latter House was torn down. In its place stands Green Glen Arena, an equestrian showplace that hosts horse shows, music concerts and other events. In 1993 it was the site of the Eurovision competition, a major international event. Drishane Castle and estate, purchased with the intent to create a luxury hotel and resort, has instead become a haven and housing for an international assortment of refugees.
In short, there is nothing EXCEDINGLY REMARKABLE about Millstreet, but the sum total is greater than the individual parts. The people here are untainted by an overabundance of tourist trade and therefore, neither wear a mask of false greeting, nor display offence or rancor at the presence of outsiders. It is the real Ireland of the 21st century. It is a place of beauty, magic and peaceful reflection; improved by the march of time, yet not polluted by it. It is the land that my wife’s ancestors came from, and, in more ways than that, it is a land I would proudly call home. We chose to bring John and Pam here, just as we have brought some of his other brothers and sisters over the years, and his father, before that, so that they could experience that which mere words can not convey."
Full report: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...2&tid=34679685
The town's web site: http://www.millstreet.ie/
Nearby, are the ancient sites of An Shrone (The City) and Knocknakilla -- both old, when the pyramids were young ...
As I said -- Here, there be Giants.
It has been my priviledge, to walk in their shadow.
THERE IS AN AWARD-WINNING TRAIN STATION, WITH MULTIPLE, DAILY CONNECTIONS TO KILLARNEY, CORK CITY AND DUBLIN. WE RENTED A HOUSE THERE, FOR TWO WEEKS LAST SUMMER AND ARE SPENDING ANOTHER WEEK, THIS COMING JULY.
IT IS MY FAVORITE PLACE, IN ALL OF IRELAND.
Bob
Apr 14th, 2010, 04:24 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am going to do some intensive checking out of all those places mentioned above. I guess I shouldn't have been so hasty to say that having a modern big box type retailer would eliminate an area for me because I know that we all need to shop. I guess I was thinking more of places that weren't lined with car dealerships and large stores with big parking lots all over the countryside. Thanks again.
Apr 14th, 2010, 09:16 PM
#11
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
County Clare and County Mayo get my vote. Stunningly beautiful and wonderfully peaceful. Perfect for a gentle cycle. You go into a village store to buy some water and you spend half an hour in delightful conversation with the owner - not something you get in Walmart...
http://www.jeremytaylor.eu/West_Ireland_photos_1.htm
http://www.jeremytaylor.eu/West_Ireland_photos_1.htm
Apr 15th, 2010, 04:59 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Jeremy--
When you visited Clare and Mayo were you on some sort of organized cycling trip, or did you have your own bike with you? How are the hills? Did you just hop on and ride around or did you use actual routes of some sort? Were there lots of small villages, or is it mainly a more isolated uninhabited area? Thanks.
When you visited Clare and Mayo were you on some sort of organized cycling trip, or did you have your own bike with you? How are the hills? Did you just hop on and ride around or did you use actual routes of some sort? Were there lots of small villages, or is it mainly a more isolated uninhabited area? Thanks.
