Paris Trip Report, Hotel Review, and some notes on Germany
Dec 30th, 2005, 06:51 AM
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Paris Trip Report, Hotel Review, and some notes on Germany
Our Paris visit began in a small town in Germany, where we had gone to spend Christmas with my wife’s sister. She lives in a Saarland village near Mettlach, where her husband works for Villeroy & Boch. The sister, one of five, had finally persuaded the family to cross the Atlantic for the holidays. Wisely, the entire crew of grandparents, uncles, aunts, nieces and nephews dispersed across the continent on the 26th, before the tremors along the family fault lines had time to wreck their havoc. We went to Paris.
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Madison in St Germain, just across from the church, which our room overlooked. We had booked a twin room, which are said to be larger, and asked for a cot for our son. It was nicely sized, prettily furnished and equipped with the usual luxuries, such as a TV that was never turned on, and a mini bar which was never opened. Nice, modern, spacious bath with a functioning shower and shower curtain. Dry floors!
Breakfast was buffet. Eggs and bacon are offered along with the usual assortment of cereals, breads, cheeses and cold cuts. The clientele was European and American, perhaps with the latter predominating. The staff was friendly and accommodating, readily making dinner reservations and calling taxis, and politely permitting me to mangle their lovely language. Once again, we failed to find a rude Parisian.
http://www.hotel-madison.com/
The Importance of Reservations
While I had researched and assembled a list of dining options, in the end a strange lethargy prevented me from e-mailing them to the hotel and asking for reservations to be made. Unlike Rome, where a small dining room on the street often leads to room after back room, in Paris what you see is usually what you get. Seating is thus limited. We walked by Allard, which despite what one guidebook says does not offer a cassoulet on Monday night because it is not open on Monday. When we returned on Tuesday night the maitre d’ did not actually tell us that we were more likely to get supper knocking on Jacques Chirac’s door, but firmly turned us away nonetheless. Aux Lyonnais, where we had hoped to dine Tuesday night was closed for the week, and a small restaurant we’d enjoyed a few years before had gone out of business. We fell back on two tourist stalwarts, The Taverne du Sargeant Recruiter and Relais de l’Entrecote. I may as well admit it now -- both were fine and exceeded expectations. The roast chicken was quite good at the first with excellent mashed potatoes (with green beans, that would make a Jake Barnes’ meal). Remember, should you go to the second, that half your steak is served after you’ve finished the initial portion. They make a very snappy, mustardy vinaigrette. For three, with wine, the bills came to about 100 €.
By Wednesday we had learned. The concierge made reservations at La Bastide Odeon, where, I assure you, whether you choose the roasted sea bream, or the guinea hen, or the scallops, or even the wild rabbit in pastry starter, you cannot go wrong. With a nice Sancerre, the bill for three came to 160€. We were pleased to find that the china used were a design created by our in-law in Germany.
What Did We Do?
Well, we walked around a lot.
On Tuesday, we finally made it to Chartres, some thirty years after I decided I wanted to see it. We were fortunate enough to find Malcolm Miller present, and spent an agreeable hour or so learning the history of the cathedral, and examining in detail the windows depicting the Jesse Tree, the Good Samaritan and Adam and Eve, and the Astrological Symbols, as well as the carvings over the South Portal portraying the Last Judgment. If you are of a bookish turn of mind, or simply curious, take Mr Miller’s tour, which he limns with dry British wit.
Wednesday was initiate son to the Louvre day. On our last visit on a rainy July day a few years back, the line had stretched down the galleries and back and we’d skipped it (not knowing the wonders of the museum pass). In chilly December we walked right in, but, as Louvre veterans know, every day gets crowded as it wears on. We went through the Italian paintings, saw the Big Three, visited the Vermeers and the Breughel and the Bosch, found the Zurbarans and Michelangelo’s slaves, and made an exhaustive survey of the Mesopotamian galleries. All in all, it took five hours.
How was the Weather and What Did We Wear?
Chilly. Down around freezing with light snow one day, and slippery pavements at night. My wife was invisible in black, and my son resembled teens everywhere, but I am apparently the last man alive who still wears a Burberry trench coat. Still, if it was good enough for Graham Greene . . .
Our Hotel
We stayed at the Hotel Madison in St Germain, just across from the church, which our room overlooked. We had booked a twin room, which are said to be larger, and asked for a cot for our son. It was nicely sized, prettily furnished and equipped with the usual luxuries, such as a TV that was never turned on, and a mini bar which was never opened. Nice, modern, spacious bath with a functioning shower and shower curtain. Dry floors!
Breakfast was buffet. Eggs and bacon are offered along with the usual assortment of cereals, breads, cheeses and cold cuts. The clientele was European and American, perhaps with the latter predominating. The staff was friendly and accommodating, readily making dinner reservations and calling taxis, and politely permitting me to mangle their lovely language. Once again, we failed to find a rude Parisian.
http://www.hotel-madison.com/
The Importance of Reservations
While I had researched and assembled a list of dining options, in the end a strange lethargy prevented me from e-mailing them to the hotel and asking for reservations to be made. Unlike Rome, where a small dining room on the street often leads to room after back room, in Paris what you see is usually what you get. Seating is thus limited. We walked by Allard, which despite what one guidebook says does not offer a cassoulet on Monday night because it is not open on Monday. When we returned on Tuesday night the maitre d’ did not actually tell us that we were more likely to get supper knocking on Jacques Chirac’s door, but firmly turned us away nonetheless. Aux Lyonnais, where we had hoped to dine Tuesday night was closed for the week, and a small restaurant we’d enjoyed a few years before had gone out of business. We fell back on two tourist stalwarts, The Taverne du Sargeant Recruiter and Relais de l’Entrecote. I may as well admit it now -- both were fine and exceeded expectations. The roast chicken was quite good at the first with excellent mashed potatoes (with green beans, that would make a Jake Barnes’ meal). Remember, should you go to the second, that half your steak is served after you’ve finished the initial portion. They make a very snappy, mustardy vinaigrette. For three, with wine, the bills came to about 100 €.
By Wednesday we had learned. The concierge made reservations at La Bastide Odeon, where, I assure you, whether you choose the roasted sea bream, or the guinea hen, or the scallops, or even the wild rabbit in pastry starter, you cannot go wrong. With a nice Sancerre, the bill for three came to 160€. We were pleased to find that the china used were a design created by our in-law in Germany.
What Did We Do?
Well, we walked around a lot.
On Tuesday, we finally made it to Chartres, some thirty years after I decided I wanted to see it. We were fortunate enough to find Malcolm Miller present, and spent an agreeable hour or so learning the history of the cathedral, and examining in detail the windows depicting the Jesse Tree, the Good Samaritan and Adam and Eve, and the Astrological Symbols, as well as the carvings over the South Portal portraying the Last Judgment. If you are of a bookish turn of mind, or simply curious, take Mr Miller’s tour, which he limns with dry British wit.
Wednesday was initiate son to the Louvre day. On our last visit on a rainy July day a few years back, the line had stretched down the galleries and back and we’d skipped it (not knowing the wonders of the museum pass). In chilly December we walked right in, but, as Louvre veterans know, every day gets crowded as it wears on. We went through the Italian paintings, saw the Big Three, visited the Vermeers and the Breughel and the Bosch, found the Zurbarans and Michelangelo’s slaves, and made an exhaustive survey of the Mesopotamian galleries. All in all, it took five hours.
How was the Weather and What Did We Wear?
Chilly. Down around freezing with light snow one day, and slippery pavements at night. My wife was invisible in black, and my son resembled teens everywhere, but I am apparently the last man alive who still wears a Burberry trench coat. Still, if it was good enough for Graham Greene . . .
Dec 30th, 2005, 07:21 AM
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Great report. I'm curious about the "museum pass". Is this something that allows you to tour the museum without the crowds? Is it something we can get in the U.S. before arriving in Paris? I'll be in Paris in August and would love to know more about some shortcuts into the museums etc.
Dec 30th, 2005, 08:37 AM
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Dec 30th, 2005, 02:00 PM
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Nice report--thanks. I'm glad to know the Madison didn't disappoint.
Your tour of the Louvre is much what we do for a short (i.e., less than a week) visi, although we substitute the Egyptian galleries for the Mesopotamian ones and always visit the Etruscan tomb-couple.
Keep wearing that Burberry! Just remember Secret Agent.
Your tour of the Louvre is much what we do for a short (i.e., less than a week) visi, although we substitute the Egyptian galleries for the Mesopotamian ones and always visit the Etruscan tomb-couple.
Keep wearing that Burberry! Just remember Secret Agent.
