One Castello, One Agriturismo, Molto Vino, Good Times in Le Marche
May 4th, 2014, 01:11 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One Castello, One Agriturismo, Molto Vino, Good Times in Le Marche
We have recently returned from a 9 day visit to the Le Marche area of Italy. This was our second time in this area, but the first time where we devoted our entire 9 days there. We were once there for 3 days in the Ascoli Piceno area. We loved it so much we decided now to split the region into South and North and divide our time between the two.
As always, I will start with our accomodations :
I knew I wanted to be in the area of Urbino for the Northern half of our trip. Thanks SO MUCH to bvlenci, who suggested the Castello di Monterado in the TEENY tiny 800 people town (yes, I asked!!) ot Monterado. This is exactly what it sounds like - a CASTLE. It belongs now to a very nice young couple with two small children, who live there along with his lovely grandmother. It has been in the family since 1920 when this young man's great-grandfather bought it and nowadays, it belongs to him.
When I looked at the website, the rooms/suites ALL looked so appealing that I honestly could not decide which I wanted. And I had endless e-mails back and forth with the owner to try and help me decide. Each suite is more lovely and appealing than the next. And they are all HUGE. Finally I made the decicion to go with the suite called Aphrodite. When we arrived at the Castello, he told me he had another suite also available the Degli Sposi, which is what we chose in the end.
The suite consisted of a very large entrance room/living room with very high beautifully painted ceilings, two ceiling to floor doors that opened up onto a lovely balcony, another door leading from the living room into another huge bedroom with very large bathroom and yet another small room.
Everything was beautifully decorated, painted and adorned with what looked like antique furnishings and knick-knacks. However, the bed was very comfortable and everything that was supposed to be modern and working well, WAS.
Breakfast, served in one of the myriad of other lovely rooms in the Castello, was ample and very tasty. We actually had the best tasting cherry tomatoes and strawberries that we have had in ages here. Other communal rooms included a library, music room, living room, dining room, etc.
The breakfast was included in the price, as was very good WiFi, parking within the walls of the Castello, the use of the pool and gardens.
I cannot remcommend highly enough.
Web site : www.castellodimonterado.it/en/
As always, I will start with our accomodations :
I knew I wanted to be in the area of Urbino for the Northern half of our trip. Thanks SO MUCH to bvlenci, who suggested the Castello di Monterado in the TEENY tiny 800 people town (yes, I asked!!) ot Monterado. This is exactly what it sounds like - a CASTLE. It belongs now to a very nice young couple with two small children, who live there along with his lovely grandmother. It has been in the family since 1920 when this young man's great-grandfather bought it and nowadays, it belongs to him.
When I looked at the website, the rooms/suites ALL looked so appealing that I honestly could not decide which I wanted. And I had endless e-mails back and forth with the owner to try and help me decide. Each suite is more lovely and appealing than the next. And they are all HUGE. Finally I made the decicion to go with the suite called Aphrodite. When we arrived at the Castello, he told me he had another suite also available the Degli Sposi, which is what we chose in the end.
The suite consisted of a very large entrance room/living room with very high beautifully painted ceilings, two ceiling to floor doors that opened up onto a lovely balcony, another door leading from the living room into another huge bedroom with very large bathroom and yet another small room.
Everything was beautifully decorated, painted and adorned with what looked like antique furnishings and knick-knacks. However, the bed was very comfortable and everything that was supposed to be modern and working well, WAS.
Breakfast, served in one of the myriad of other lovely rooms in the Castello, was ample and very tasty. We actually had the best tasting cherry tomatoes and strawberries that we have had in ages here. Other communal rooms included a library, music room, living room, dining room, etc.
The breakfast was included in the price, as was very good WiFi, parking within the walls of the Castello, the use of the pool and gardens.
I cannot remcommend highly enough.
Web site : www.castellodimonterado.it/en/
May 4th, 2014, 02:38 PM
#3
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking forward to the rest of this report as well. I live near Monterado, but I've never been inside the castello, although I've eaten in their restaurant. I once suggested this castle to a friend of mine who was looking for a place to stay in this area, because I had seen the website and thought it looked wonderful. She ended up staying somewhere else; I should send her your trip report so that she sees what she missed!
It sounds as though it would be a great place for a honeymoon. I know their restaurant is popular for weddings in this area.
It sounds as though it would be a great place for a honeymoon. I know their restaurant is popular for weddings in this area.
May 4th, 2014, 08:46 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Castello does not have a restaurant. There IS a restaurant in Monterado, ONE restaurant, which is about 50 meters from the Castello. But has nothing to do with them. Except for the fact that the owner of the Castello recommends this restaurant and we actually ate there all four nights during our stay. More on that later. Indeed they do hold wedding receptions at the Castello, I had seen pictures also on their web site. And what a lovely place for it too !!
May 4th, 2014, 08:55 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
On the second half of our journey we travelled a bit south, about an hour and a half from Monterado to be exact, and stayed five nights at Contrada Durano, a lovely agriturismo near Smerillo / Amandola.
Contrada Durano is lovingly and beautifully run by a couple - he originally from the UK and she from Sicily. You could hardly ask for better hospitality, friendliness, and an all around feeling of being well taken care of. Our room there was a nice size bedroom with a gorgeous view out onto the green hills (we were up a very high and steep mountain road here), another small room which could have been made up into another bed if needed but for us served as a small living room, and a bathroom/shower.
Our hosts are very proud of their venture and it is apparent in every respect. Breakfasts are prepared fresh and they include just about everything you can ask for, including some homemade products of their own farm, such as jams, tomato sauces, etc.
Price here also included free WiFi, although it was quite erractic and connection was not good in our room (much better in the dining room for instance) and the delicious hot breakfasts prepared daily.
Dinners are also offered here each night. That will be a separate entry.
Contrada Durano is lovingly and beautifully run by a couple - he originally from the UK and she from Sicily. You could hardly ask for better hospitality, friendliness, and an all around feeling of being well taken care of. Our room there was a nice size bedroom with a gorgeous view out onto the green hills (we were up a very high and steep mountain road here), another small room which could have been made up into another bed if needed but for us served as a small living room, and a bathroom/shower.
Our hosts are very proud of their venture and it is apparent in every respect. Breakfasts are prepared fresh and they include just about everything you can ask for, including some homemade products of their own farm, such as jams, tomato sauces, etc.
Price here also included free WiFi, although it was quite erractic and connection was not good in our room (much better in the dining room for instance) and the delicious hot breakfasts prepared daily.
Dinners are also offered here each night. That will be a separate entry.
May 4th, 2014, 08:57 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
May 5th, 2014, 03:37 AM
#7
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I suppose the wedding receptions at the Castello di Monterado are catered, then. I thought the restaurant was part of the castle. Actually, like most medieval Italian walled towns, the entire town within the walls was originally part of the castle.
In the middle ages, only nobility and clergy could live within the castle wall (along with live-in household servants). Merchants and artisans had to live outside the wall. In Italy, a little community just outside the walls was called a "borgo". The equivalent French term "bourg" is the origin of "bourgeoisie", who were neither clergy nor nobility. In modern Italian, a borgo is any small town.
In Le Marche, there is a very high density of castles, because this was a much contested area for almost 800 years. "The marches" is a term which means a borderland. Many of these castles are privately owned now. Some are quite small.
In the middle ages, only nobility and clergy could live within the castle wall (along with live-in household servants). Merchants and artisans had to live outside the wall. In Italy, a little community just outside the walls was called a "borgo". The equivalent French term "bourg" is the origin of "bourgeoisie", who were neither clergy nor nobility. In modern Italian, a borgo is any small town.
In Le Marche, there is a very high density of castles, because this was a much contested area for almost 800 years. "The marches" is a term which means a borderland. Many of these castles are privately owned now. Some are quite small.
May 5th, 2014, 10:53 AM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Meals :
As is usually our practice, we like to have a substantial breakfast, usually provided by our hotel/B&B/Castello (wink) and then eat nothing or very little until dinner. This is how we planned our days on this trip as well.
So breakfast at the Castello di Monterado included the following : fresh delicious amazing strawberries, cherry tomatoes that tasted like summer itself (and so unusual to have ANY vegetables available at an Italian hotel breakfast), salami, thinly sliced ham, several cheeses, yogurts, juices, bread, croissants and other pastries, single-serve jams, nutella, butter and honey, fresh fruits, coffee, tea, cereal, milk. Basically I could not think of anything that was missing, save maybe for an egg or omelette once in a while. But seeing it was Easter while we were there, there WERE some colored Easter eggs on the table!!
We had dinner ALL four nights at THE restaurant there called Tavernetta Sull’aia. It was the type of home cooking that we look for when travelling in Italy. The menu was varied and we were able to have many different items with also a nice selection of wines. While there was very little English spoken, my Italian went very far with people who are friendly and happy to help. All our evenings were truly enjoyable there, both in terms of food and wine, and in terms of the wait service.
Here are some of the foods we enjoyed : a heavenly ravioli type pasta dish with mushrooms, cheese and tartufo,cannelloni with veal and pork, a dish that was listed on the menu as "stinco di vitello" and I laughed my head off. I know that vitello is veal but I had NO idea what the stinco was!!! They told me it was a part of the animal, the leg. So we had that with roasted potatoes. We had a bottle of lovely house red (Rossi Piceno), water and then also had to try the deserts since they are also homemade. We tried a panna cotta and the tiramisu. After coffee they brought out an amazing limoncello and another chocolate/anise liquer which we also loved.
Other meals there : Ravioli dish from the night before, a monster-size plate of fritto misto (fried meats, veggies and potatoes, olives, etc.), both of us got a mixed salad, Lacrima wine (special to here of course) and lovely. Coffee and a hot lava type chocolate desert. Limoncello and the other chocolate/anise liquer were also served and they were served after every dinner.
By the third night, we were greeted as old friends in "our" restaurant and we had much less this time to eat. We are learning. So we each had a salad but this time we shared the portion of fritto misto and skipped dessert. I had coffee of course, we got wine of course (Lacrima from last night), and the digestives at the end.
Our last night at the restaurant we each had a great pasta dish (one with mushrooms and truffles and one with a turkey sugo - sauce). Then we shared a salad and a grilled veggie dish which was the only bad thing we had there. This time we had a bottle of white Verdicchio and it was super!
Another great thing about this restaurant - for some reason, they rounded DOWN the bill at the end!!! I have never seen this before. If we had a bill of 41.50 Euros, they charged us 40.00 Euros, when our bill was 27.50, they rounded down to 25!!! Yes, I did leave a relatively small tip on our first night, I know that tipping is much less customary in Italy than elsewhere. But they were so lovely and patient with us, and everything was just so excellent that I couldn't NOT leave something. It was just a few Euros. I wonder whether that made the difference?
In any case, a stellar experience each and every night!!
Cheese/spinach stuffed ravioli, spaghetti with a homemade meatsauce (and all the pastas were homemade as well), fritto misto (meats, potatoes and vegetables delecatly fried in a portion that was enough for 2 or even 3 people!!,
As is usually our practice, we like to have a substantial breakfast, usually provided by our hotel/B&B/Castello (wink) and then eat nothing or very little until dinner. This is how we planned our days on this trip as well.
So breakfast at the Castello di Monterado included the following : fresh delicious amazing strawberries, cherry tomatoes that tasted like summer itself (and so unusual to have ANY vegetables available at an Italian hotel breakfast), salami, thinly sliced ham, several cheeses, yogurts, juices, bread, croissants and other pastries, single-serve jams, nutella, butter and honey, fresh fruits, coffee, tea, cereal, milk. Basically I could not think of anything that was missing, save maybe for an egg or omelette once in a while. But seeing it was Easter while we were there, there WERE some colored Easter eggs on the table!!
We had dinner ALL four nights at THE restaurant there called Tavernetta Sull’aia. It was the type of home cooking that we look for when travelling in Italy. The menu was varied and we were able to have many different items with also a nice selection of wines. While there was very little English spoken, my Italian went very far with people who are friendly and happy to help. All our evenings were truly enjoyable there, both in terms of food and wine, and in terms of the wait service.
Here are some of the foods we enjoyed : a heavenly ravioli type pasta dish with mushrooms, cheese and tartufo,cannelloni with veal and pork, a dish that was listed on the menu as "stinco di vitello" and I laughed my head off. I know that vitello is veal but I had NO idea what the stinco was!!! They told me it was a part of the animal, the leg. So we had that with roasted potatoes. We had a bottle of lovely house red (Rossi Piceno), water and then also had to try the deserts since they are also homemade. We tried a panna cotta and the tiramisu. After coffee they brought out an amazing limoncello and another chocolate/anise liquer which we also loved.
Other meals there : Ravioli dish from the night before, a monster-size plate of fritto misto (fried meats, veggies and potatoes, olives, etc.), both of us got a mixed salad, Lacrima wine (special to here of course) and lovely. Coffee and a hot lava type chocolate desert. Limoncello and the other chocolate/anise liquer were also served and they were served after every dinner.
By the third night, we were greeted as old friends in "our" restaurant and we had much less this time to eat. We are learning. So we each had a salad but this time we shared the portion of fritto misto and skipped dessert. I had coffee of course, we got wine of course (Lacrima from last night), and the digestives at the end.
Our last night at the restaurant we each had a great pasta dish (one with mushrooms and truffles and one with a turkey sugo - sauce). Then we shared a salad and a grilled veggie dish which was the only bad thing we had there. This time we had a bottle of white Verdicchio and it was super!
Another great thing about this restaurant - for some reason, they rounded DOWN the bill at the end!!! I have never seen this before. If we had a bill of 41.50 Euros, they charged us 40.00 Euros, when our bill was 27.50, they rounded down to 25!!! Yes, I did leave a relatively small tip on our first night, I know that tipping is much less customary in Italy than elsewhere. But they were so lovely and patient with us, and everything was just so excellent that I couldn't NOT leave something. It was just a few Euros. I wonder whether that made the difference?
In any case, a stellar experience each and every night!!
Cheese/spinach stuffed ravioli, spaghetti with a homemade meatsauce (and all the pastas were homemade as well), fritto misto (meats, potatoes and vegetables delecatly fried in a portion that was enough for 2 or even 3 people!!,
May 5th, 2014, 12:08 PM
#9
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for sharing your trip! My husband and I have a tentative trip planned for Urbino and Le March for next May! I do think we'll opt to stay in Urbino itself, but perhaps we'll venture to Tavernetta Sull’aia for dinner. It sounds wonderful!
May 6th, 2014, 05:17 AM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
indyhiker and eks - thanks. Yes I think these are two good locations not too far apart from each other, and each let's you "explore" the immediate, and not-so-immediate area of the region. I think Le Marche is too small to "warrant" a third location.
More on our Meals :
At Contrada Durano, we were treated to wonderful homemade breakfasts lovingly prepared by our hostess. They included fresh fruit, bread, juices, croissants, coffee, tea, homemade jams from their land, and each day there was a different warm "entree". Twice there were omelettes with mushrooms and/or meats, one there were hard boiled eggs with slices of meats, and it started us off wonderfully for our days of travelling and wandering about.
Each night, except for our last, we chose to also have dinner at the agriturismo. Dinners were long wonderfully drawn-out affairs and started out with an aperitivo of lovely Prosecco-type wine, shared with the owners and the other couple who were guests at the time. It was poured at the bar and we enjoyed these few minutes of talking with them.
We then moved to the dining area and our antipasti came out, along with our wine for the evening, poured and served by our host, who also made sure to tell us exactly what we were eating at each course. A pasta dish followed, then the main course, and then a dessert, which was also served with a dessert wine, digestives like grappa, etc. and coffee.
For those that enjoy "food porn", here is a listing of what we ate each night :
One our first night, dinner started with an aperitivo of prosecco-like drink and then a pear and cheese appetizer in a baked dough. Luscious. Handmade homemade spaghetti with mozzarella and August-canned tomatoes from their farm. Then thin slices of beef with a tonnato (tuna, capers, anchoves, lemon, mayo sauce) with garlicky green beens and sweet peppers accompaniment. Almond cakes with anglais sauce and coffee rounded out the meal. It was super. During the meal we had a lovely Rosso Piceno and after with desert a Passito (like Vin Santo) and Grappa !!
Our second night : Aperitivo, then appeitzer of squash and cheese pie served with fresh tomatoes, and then an extra dish of an eggplant and tomato and cheese thingy. Verdicchio white wine tonight. Ravioli stuffed with cheese and spinach with a butter and sage sauce. Breaded turkey and ginger carrots. Heavenly panna cotta with berries for desert.
Third night : We got started with a flaky doughy thingy with cheese and ham and a very unusual and delish side salad of raw zucchini strips, pears, cheese and in an olive oil and lemon dressing. If that was not enough out came some cream puffs with salty cheese melted inside. Pasta tonight was a fab porcini and other mushrooms risotto. Oh wow. Main was sliced tender beef with roasted potatoes and carrots. Desert was a crostata pie with cream and different fruits. Wines were a Rosso Conero - very smooth and excellent - and all the desert wines. It was an over three hour affair and we all enjoyed.
Our fourth night : Dinner tonight was "light" as our host called it and that just meant for some reason there was no pasta course. So we had an Arnoldo Caprai Sangiovese, which I know and love and it was a nice wine, albeit not from Le Marche but from Umbria (we are very close to the border between the regions). First course was a zucchini baked dish -our hostess seems to love zucchini which is great because we do too, and with a sweet pepper mash. Delish. Then we went straight to the main which was cous-cous (turns out it is very typical Sicilian dish which is where she originates!!) with a lovely spicy meat and raisins stew. Along with that there were three sauces or more like relishes that our host had prepared - one with lime, one with mango and one with apple. All yum!!! Desert was a vanilla ice cream with macerated fruits and the usual passito and grappa drinks!!
On our last night we just bought some light food at a supermarket on our way back from our day and had a picnic in our room!!
More on our Meals :
At Contrada Durano, we were treated to wonderful homemade breakfasts lovingly prepared by our hostess. They included fresh fruit, bread, juices, croissants, coffee, tea, homemade jams from their land, and each day there was a different warm "entree". Twice there were omelettes with mushrooms and/or meats, one there were hard boiled eggs with slices of meats, and it started us off wonderfully for our days of travelling and wandering about.
Each night, except for our last, we chose to also have dinner at the agriturismo. Dinners were long wonderfully drawn-out affairs and started out with an aperitivo of lovely Prosecco-type wine, shared with the owners and the other couple who were guests at the time. It was poured at the bar and we enjoyed these few minutes of talking with them.
We then moved to the dining area and our antipasti came out, along with our wine for the evening, poured and served by our host, who also made sure to tell us exactly what we were eating at each course. A pasta dish followed, then the main course, and then a dessert, which was also served with a dessert wine, digestives like grappa, etc. and coffee.
For those that enjoy "food porn", here is a listing of what we ate each night :
One our first night, dinner started with an aperitivo of prosecco-like drink and then a pear and cheese appetizer in a baked dough. Luscious. Handmade homemade spaghetti with mozzarella and August-canned tomatoes from their farm. Then thin slices of beef with a tonnato (tuna, capers, anchoves, lemon, mayo sauce) with garlicky green beens and sweet peppers accompaniment. Almond cakes with anglais sauce and coffee rounded out the meal. It was super. During the meal we had a lovely Rosso Piceno and after with desert a Passito (like Vin Santo) and Grappa !!
Our second night : Aperitivo, then appeitzer of squash and cheese pie served with fresh tomatoes, and then an extra dish of an eggplant and tomato and cheese thingy. Verdicchio white wine tonight. Ravioli stuffed with cheese and spinach with a butter and sage sauce. Breaded turkey and ginger carrots. Heavenly panna cotta with berries for desert.
Third night : We got started with a flaky doughy thingy with cheese and ham and a very unusual and delish side salad of raw zucchini strips, pears, cheese and in an olive oil and lemon dressing. If that was not enough out came some cream puffs with salty cheese melted inside. Pasta tonight was a fab porcini and other mushrooms risotto. Oh wow. Main was sliced tender beef with roasted potatoes and carrots. Desert was a crostata pie with cream and different fruits. Wines were a Rosso Conero - very smooth and excellent - and all the desert wines. It was an over three hour affair and we all enjoyed.
Our fourth night : Dinner tonight was "light" as our host called it and that just meant for some reason there was no pasta course. So we had an Arnoldo Caprai Sangiovese, which I know and love and it was a nice wine, albeit not from Le Marche but from Umbria (we are very close to the border between the regions). First course was a zucchini baked dish -our hostess seems to love zucchini which is great because we do too, and with a sweet pepper mash. Delish. Then we went straight to the main which was cous-cous (turns out it is very typical Sicilian dish which is where she originates!!) with a lovely spicy meat and raisins stew. Along with that there were three sauces or more like relishes that our host had prepared - one with lime, one with mango and one with apple. All yum!!! Desert was a vanilla ice cream with macerated fruits and the usual passito and grappa drinks!!
On our last night we just bought some light food at a supermarket on our way back from our day and had a picnic in our room!!
May 7th, 2014, 03:15 AM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, if anyone is still reading, here is a breakdown of the places we visited and things we enjoyed :
On our first full day in the Monterado area, it was a lovely morning so we decided to take a drive. Again with suggestions and information I received from bvlenci on this board, we first stopped at Mondavio which is a very old town with medieval towers and gates from many many years ago. After a short walk around, it already started getting cloudy and by around 12:30 the rain did indeed start. We did not let it stop us and we went by several other small towns but did not really get out – San Lorenzo in Campo, Pergola,
Acqualanga, Cagli, Arcevia. All were small and beautiful in their own right. However, one of the things we saw time and again was a feeling of economic problems, few people around, and a general feeling of instability. I felt very sad about this.
One of the things I wanted to see in the second half of our day was the Caves of Frasassi. We got there but by then the rain was quite back and we decided to pass on it. We just had a snack and a walk around with some pictures there and that was it. Another time perhaps......
Then we drove to Fratte Rossa where I had booked a visit at Terracrudo winery (thank you jamikins from this board for THAT recommendation!!). The young gal Martina was a HOOT. She had a laugh that was hysterical and she was very sweet, animated and talked a lot !! But we were the only ones there so...... By the time we were almost done, a LOT of others came in though. The place is gorgeous and fairly new with beautiful vistas and the wines were good to very good. We tasted about 6 whites, also a sparkling white, 4 reds and 3 liquors. But I had very little of each one and was fine to drive. I probably had one whole glass and it was over the course of about 90 minutes. The last was the grappa which they make with cherries!!!!! and it was served in little edible chocolate espresso cups. Amazing !!
After that we wanted to do some more stuff even though it was already after 5 PM but I got a bit tired of so much driving on small windy roads and in bad weather and we also got mixed up to get back so we decided to just finish off the day and we still got back to the Castello only around 6:30 so quite late. We had food also at the tasting so neither of us were really hungry but we went to eat in "our" restaurant later nonetheless.
More to come........
On our first full day in the Monterado area, it was a lovely morning so we decided to take a drive. Again with suggestions and information I received from bvlenci on this board, we first stopped at Mondavio which is a very old town with medieval towers and gates from many many years ago. After a short walk around, it already started getting cloudy and by around 12:30 the rain did indeed start. We did not let it stop us and we went by several other small towns but did not really get out – San Lorenzo in Campo, Pergola,
Acqualanga, Cagli, Arcevia. All were small and beautiful in their own right. However, one of the things we saw time and again was a feeling of economic problems, few people around, and a general feeling of instability. I felt very sad about this.
One of the things I wanted to see in the second half of our day was the Caves of Frasassi. We got there but by then the rain was quite back and we decided to pass on it. We just had a snack and a walk around with some pictures there and that was it. Another time perhaps......
Then we drove to Fratte Rossa where I had booked a visit at Terracrudo winery (thank you jamikins from this board for THAT recommendation!!). The young gal Martina was a HOOT. She had a laugh that was hysterical and she was very sweet, animated and talked a lot !! But we were the only ones there so...... By the time we were almost done, a LOT of others came in though. The place is gorgeous and fairly new with beautiful vistas and the wines were good to very good. We tasted about 6 whites, also a sparkling white, 4 reds and 3 liquors. But I had very little of each one and was fine to drive. I probably had one whole glass and it was over the course of about 90 minutes. The last was the grappa which they make with cherries!!!!! and it was served in little edible chocolate espresso cups. Amazing !!
After that we wanted to do some more stuff even though it was already after 5 PM but I got a bit tired of so much driving on small windy roads and in bad weather and we also got mixed up to get back so we decided to just finish off the day and we still got back to the Castello only around 6:30 so quite late. We had food also at the tasting so neither of us were really hungry but we went to eat in "our" restaurant later nonetheless.
More to come........
May 7th, 2014, 03:50 AM
#13
In Le Marche, there is a very high density of castles, because this was a much contested area for almost 800 years. >>
bvl - you may know that there is an area between England and Wales which is traditionally called "the Marches" - and it too has many castles.
Flame - I just found your TR and am enjoying it very much. you're a woman ? [apologies if I've got that wrong] after my own heart, putting the most important thing, ie the food, first. We had been toying with a trip to this sort of area this year, but it hasn't come off; i can still store up these ideas for next year though - thank you!
bvl - you may know that there is an area between England and Wales which is traditionally called "the Marches" - and it too has many castles.
Flame - I just found your TR and am enjoying it very much. you're a woman ? [apologies if I've got that wrong] after my own heart, putting the most important thing, ie the food, first. We had been toying with a trip to this sort of area this year, but it hasn't come off; i can still store up these ideas for next year though - thank you!
May 7th, 2014, 11:05 AM
#15
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
annhig - Yup, woman. And happy that I can help with your planning. eks - and here is some more :
On our second day, we drove to Urbino. It should be about an hour drive but because we took some wrong, or let's say "different" routes, it took quite a bit more, almost two hours. We went through some larger towns like Fano and Pesaro which looked quite nice and also some of the seaside towns like Senigallia.
By the time we got to Urbino it was already close to noon. We found several small parking lots and all were full, went further and saw a great big lot with lots of places. Went into an information spot right there and found out we could not park there but COULD park in an underground lot right next to, for 1 Euro per hour, very reasonable. Did that and then took an elevator, for 50 cents per person to the top of the city.
Got out right in the middle of the town and started walking towards the Palazzo Ducale. It was very nice but with lots of scaffolding, renovations and restorations. We first went into the Duomo right next to it where Easter services were in full swing. It was actually very pretty and mostly white with some green colors, we liked it.
The Palazzo Ducale was nicely uncrowded as was the whole city. A lot of people obviousy were celebrating Easter with their families at lunchtime, etc. but there were still enough people around in the streets and other places to make it animated enough but not crowded. We were underwhelmed by the Palace mostly because I thought there would be better and more paintings. It is billed as havng one of the most interestng and important Renaissance paintings and yet we found it not terribly interesting. One tiny Rafaello painting.........
After much walking and explorations of the smaller, lovely, HILLY streets, it was midday and a bit warmer; we deserved a delish mascarpone and cherry yogurt and a rest. Then we stopped into some stores that were open and before leaving we stopped in the main piazza and had a drink and people watched for about an hour.
The ride back was through a different route, also nice and shorter so we were back by 5:30.
On our second day, we drove to Urbino. It should be about an hour drive but because we took some wrong, or let's say "different" routes, it took quite a bit more, almost two hours. We went through some larger towns like Fano and Pesaro which looked quite nice and also some of the seaside towns like Senigallia.
By the time we got to Urbino it was already close to noon. We found several small parking lots and all were full, went further and saw a great big lot with lots of places. Went into an information spot right there and found out we could not park there but COULD park in an underground lot right next to, for 1 Euro per hour, very reasonable. Did that and then took an elevator, for 50 cents per person to the top of the city.
Got out right in the middle of the town and started walking towards the Palazzo Ducale. It was very nice but with lots of scaffolding, renovations and restorations. We first went into the Duomo right next to it where Easter services were in full swing. It was actually very pretty and mostly white with some green colors, we liked it.
The Palazzo Ducale was nicely uncrowded as was the whole city. A lot of people obviousy were celebrating Easter with their families at lunchtime, etc. but there were still enough people around in the streets and other places to make it animated enough but not crowded. We were underwhelmed by the Palace mostly because I thought there would be better and more paintings. It is billed as havng one of the most interestng and important Renaissance paintings and yet we found it not terribly interesting. One tiny Rafaello painting.........
After much walking and explorations of the smaller, lovely, HILLY streets, it was midday and a bit warmer; we deserved a delish mascarpone and cherry yogurt and a rest. Then we stopped into some stores that were open and before leaving we stopped in the main piazza and had a drink and people watched for about an hour.
The ride back was through a different route, also nice and shorter so we were back by 5:30.
May 7th, 2014, 09:33 PM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Next day we were off to a monastery that our host's grandmother suggested called Eremo di Fonte Avellana. It was indeed very special, very modern looking and we had the last tour at 12 noon before break for 3 hours lunch and holiday siesta!! All in Italian of course but no matter. The chapel was splendid and they were just finishing their services for today. Afterwards we started driving towards Gubbio, the one place that when we were in Umbria many years ago, we decided was too far North for us to visit.
Although Gubbio is not in Le Marche, it IS just over the border in Umbria. What a gorgeous city. Much larger of course than any we have visited this trip up till now but it is just so splendid, I could not stop taking pictures!! We walked around and then took the elevator up (how convenient of all these city councils to provide such "lazy" transportation for visitors that are wary of walking up SO many hills!! Kudos.
Then I wanted to get to the Furlo Gorge which is supposed to be amazing and somehow we did not get exactly there. What we DID do is take some amazing small country winding roads that took us to some of the most splendid and gorgeous views and scenes to date!! We DID get to Furlo in the end but it was so crowded probably by Italians themselves who were still on Easter Monday holiday and were visitng with entire families, it was getting late and so I never actually got to whatever the gorge is, but we saw enough splendor without it.
Again the way back was frought with stupidity on how the roads are and which to take but we made it back before 6 PM.
Although Gubbio is not in Le Marche, it IS just over the border in Umbria. What a gorgeous city. Much larger of course than any we have visited this trip up till now but it is just so splendid, I could not stop taking pictures!! We walked around and then took the elevator up (how convenient of all these city councils to provide such "lazy" transportation for visitors that are wary of walking up SO many hills!! Kudos.
Then I wanted to get to the Furlo Gorge which is supposed to be amazing and somehow we did not get exactly there. What we DID do is take some amazing small country winding roads that took us to some of the most splendid and gorgeous views and scenes to date!! We DID get to Furlo in the end but it was so crowded probably by Italians themselves who were still on Easter Monday holiday and were visitng with entire families, it was getting late and so I never actually got to whatever the gorge is, but we saw enough splendor without it.
Again the way back was frought with stupidity on how the roads are and which to take but we made it back before 6 PM.
May 11th, 2014, 09:34 AM
#17
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've somehow left this trip report fall into a crack, but I'm back!
I'm sorry you were disappointed in the Ducal Palace in Urbino. It doesn't have a large collection, but it does have numerous Renaissance treasures which I'm sorry you missed.
There should be two Raphael paintings there, not one. They're not among his most famous, but his native city couldn't not have a few examples of his work. There are also numerous painting by Raphael's father, Giovanni Santi.
There are two famous works of the great Renaissance artist, Piero della Francesca: the Madonna di Senigallia, and the Flagellation of Christ.
There is a very nice painting by Gentileschi.
Probably the most famous works in the collection is the Ideal City, which is one of the iconic paintings of the Italian Renaissance, even though it's not known who painted it. Some think it was Piero della Francesca.
Another very interesting work you can be seen here is the studiolo of the Duke of Montefeltro, which is completely covered by intricate intarsia work. The twin of this studiolo was originally in the ducal palace of Gubbio (another seat of the the Duke of Montefeltro) but is now found in the Metropolitan Museum in New York.
It's also very interesting to visit the subterranean rooms of the palace, where the stables, kitchen (disconcertingly near each other), and laundry were situated.
I'm sorry you were disappointed in the Ducal Palace in Urbino. It doesn't have a large collection, but it does have numerous Renaissance treasures which I'm sorry you missed.
There should be two Raphael paintings there, not one. They're not among his most famous, but his native city couldn't not have a few examples of his work. There are also numerous painting by Raphael's father, Giovanni Santi.
There are two famous works of the great Renaissance artist, Piero della Francesca: the Madonna di Senigallia, and the Flagellation of Christ.
There is a very nice painting by Gentileschi.
Probably the most famous works in the collection is the Ideal City, which is one of the iconic paintings of the Italian Renaissance, even though it's not known who painted it. Some think it was Piero della Francesca.
Another very interesting work you can be seen here is the studiolo of the Duke of Montefeltro, which is completely covered by intricate intarsia work. The twin of this studiolo was originally in the ducal palace of Gubbio (another seat of the the Duke of Montefeltro) but is now found in the Metropolitan Museum in New York.
It's also very interesting to visit the subterranean rooms of the palace, where the stables, kitchen (disconcertingly near each other), and laundry were situated.
May 11th, 2014, 10:31 AM
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,480
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bvlenci - there was only one small painting by Rafaello, the other one was taken down (there was just a photograph of what painting SHOULD have been there), probably for restoration or taken somewhere, I don't know. And yes we did see most of the others you mention, as well as the subterranean rooms. It was just not one of the highlights. Glad you are back!! I will continue with the TR soon.
May 11th, 2014, 11:27 AM
#19
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 7,986
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I thought maybe a little more information about the wines in our region might be interesting, although I'm not much of a wine drinker. Please excuse my terminology; I'm not familiar with English terms for many of these things, and sometimes my translations from the Italian might be a little eccentric. Not to mention that my knowledge of wine comes almost entirely from my acquaintance with many producers.
There are two types of Verdicchio, the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. The first is the most highly rated, and has some very highly rated labels in its DOC and DOCG categories. It's produced from a grape native to Le Marche and found almost nowhere else. It's considered to be an ideal companion to seafood dishes, but around where I live, it's used as a table wine, practically the only wine many people drink. There's also a Verdicchio passito, made from over-mature grapes.
Another excellent wine, also mentioned by Flame, is Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, which is produced only in a very restricted zone near the town of Morro d'Alba.
Rosso Piceno and Rosso del Conero are mostly good honest, unpretentious red table wines, although there some Reserve Rosso del Conero wines. Bianchello del Metauro is a white wine in this category. These, or a simple Verdicchio are the usual house wines at restaurants in Le Marche.
The "grappa" made from cherries mentioned by Flame was probably vino di visciole, which is not a grappa, but also not exactly a wine; it's made from a fermented syrup of sour cherries, and has a somewhat higher grade of alcohol than most wines. The type of cherry is native to Le Marche. In the spring, the cherries are mixed with sugar and left to age in the sun in glass bottles for 50 days. Then, when the grapes are harvested, the resulting syrup is mixed with grape must and fermented. After about five months, the resulting liquid is strained and further aged in small wooden kegs. Grappa is a distilled alcoholic beverage, and vino di visciole isn't distilled.
Another typical (and highly rated) marchigiano wine is the sparkling red Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, which is produced by only four cantine in the town of the same name.
There are also some sweet wines, similar to the vin santo of Tuscany. One traditional type is the vino cotto of southern Le Marche, made from must that's been boiled to reduce it, and then fermented together with wine from the past year.
There are two types of Verdicchio, the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi and Verdicchio di Matelica. The first is the most highly rated, and has some very highly rated labels in its DOC and DOCG categories. It's produced from a grape native to Le Marche and found almost nowhere else. It's considered to be an ideal companion to seafood dishes, but around where I live, it's used as a table wine, practically the only wine many people drink. There's also a Verdicchio passito, made from over-mature grapes.
Another excellent wine, also mentioned by Flame, is Lacrima di Morro d'Alba, which is produced only in a very restricted zone near the town of Morro d'Alba.
Rosso Piceno and Rosso del Conero are mostly good honest, unpretentious red table wines, although there some Reserve Rosso del Conero wines. Bianchello del Metauro is a white wine in this category. These, or a simple Verdicchio are the usual house wines at restaurants in Le Marche.
The "grappa" made from cherries mentioned by Flame was probably vino di visciole, which is not a grappa, but also not exactly a wine; it's made from a fermented syrup of sour cherries, and has a somewhat higher grade of alcohol than most wines. The type of cherry is native to Le Marche. In the spring, the cherries are mixed with sugar and left to age in the sun in glass bottles for 50 days. Then, when the grapes are harvested, the resulting syrup is mixed with grape must and fermented. After about five months, the resulting liquid is strained and further aged in small wooden kegs. Grappa is a distilled alcoholic beverage, and vino di visciole isn't distilled.
Another typical (and highly rated) marchigiano wine is the sparkling red Vernaccia di Serrapetrona, which is produced by only four cantine in the town of the same name.
There are also some sweet wines, similar to the vin santo of Tuscany. One traditional type is the vino cotto of southern Le Marche, made from must that's been boiled to reduce it, and then fermented together with wine from the past year.
May 11th, 2014, 12:26 PM
#20
Please excuse my terminology; I'm not familiar with English terms for many of these things, and sometimes my translations from the Italian might be a little eccentric.>>
bvl, there isn't really an english equivalent to DOC or DOCG as we don't produce enough wine ever to have had an official grading system. [don't know about the US though].
i found these explanations on the net which may be helpful:
<<Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG): Seeing this on the label of your wine bottle means that the wine producers followed the strictest regulations possible to make that wine. The wine was tested a committee that then guarantees the geographic authenticity of the wine and its quality. There are currently only a handful of Italian wines that qualify for DOCG status.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC): DOC wines are much more commonly found. The rules governing quality and authenticity are still very strict, but they're a little more generous than those for DOCG status. For instance, the geographic zone might be a little bigger or the rules about what kind of grapes might be a little more relaxed.
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): This designation was created a little after the DOC and DOCG designations in order to accommodate growers who couldn't meet all the DOC or DOCG regulations for one reason or another, but were still producing great wines>>
bvl, there isn't really an english equivalent to DOC or DOCG as we don't produce enough wine ever to have had an official grading system. [don't know about the US though].
i found these explanations on the net which may be helpful:
<<Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG): Seeing this on the label of your wine bottle means that the wine producers followed the strictest regulations possible to make that wine. The wine was tested a committee that then guarantees the geographic authenticity of the wine and its quality. There are currently only a handful of Italian wines that qualify for DOCG status.
Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC): DOC wines are much more commonly found. The rules governing quality and authenticity are still very strict, but they're a little more generous than those for DOCG status. For instance, the geographic zone might be a little bigger or the rules about what kind of grapes might be a little more relaxed.
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT): This designation was created a little after the DOC and DOCG designations in order to accommodate growers who couldn't meet all the DOC or DOCG regulations for one reason or another, but were still producing great wines>>
