One Castello, One Agriturismo, Molto Vino, Good Times in Le Marche
May 11th, 2014, 12:48 PM
#21
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Thanks, Ann! I think the IGT designation is used for things like the vino di visciole or vino cotto, which follow very old traditional preparation methods but are not strict about the type of grape or the location of the vineyards.
May 11th, 2014, 01:20 PM
#22
I think the IGT designation is used for things like the vino di visciole or vino cotto, which follow very old traditional preparation methods but are not strict about the type of grape or the location of the vineyards>>
A little like the french "vin du pays" designation, i think.
at least it's not as complicated as the german wine grading system!
A little like the french "vin du pays" designation, i think.
at least it's not as complicated as the german wine grading system!
May 11th, 2014, 02:27 PM
#23
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The Hermitage of Fonte Avellana is in a lovely spot on the slopes of Mount Catria, on the Marche-Umbria border. The area is very popular with hikers. Parts of the monastery date to the 10th century; there is a little chapel in the crypt which is one of the oldest parts of the monastery. It's absolutely lovely in its stark simplicity. I think things like this are what made Flame say it looked modern. You're not allowed to take photos there, but here is a photo I found online of that little chapel:
http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/56551897.jpg
The scriptorium at Fonte Avellana, where the monks copied their manuscripts, is very interesting, as it's remained almost completely unchanged since its construction, except that the desks are no longer there. The windows, high up on the walls, were placed so that even illumination filled the room, with no shadows falling on any of the desks.
It's thought that Guido di Arezzo invented the modern system of musical notation when he was a monk at Fonte Avellana. Dante is also assumed to have stayed there; he mentions it in his Divine Comedy.
People from all over the region come to Fonte Avellana for mass on Sundays. If you visit the hermitage on a Sunday, you can have lunch in the monastery's refectory. Food is served on long tables; there's a fixed price and you eat what they're serving that day. It's good typical marchigiano home cooking, but nothing fancy. This is a very popular lunch, and you're supposed to have to reserve in advance. However, we were able to reserve for the same day at the bar on the monastery grounds.
There is a pharmacy on the grounds of the monastery, which sells all sorts of concoctions put up by monks of the Camaldolesi order.
This was a powerful and wealthy monastery in the middle ages, owning land almost all the way to the coast, including the town of Monterado, where Flame's castle is located. In fact, the original castle was constructed with a permit from the monastery. There are many small castles in the vicinity of the monastery which served as watch towers to warn of the approach of brigands. Two of the most charming are Piticchio and Loretello. You can see one from the walls of the other, I assume for the ease of signaling.
Another beautiful, but larger, castle that served to protect Fonte Avellana is in the upper town of Frontone. It's privately owned and has very limited visiting hours. My daughter and I once snuck in when it was being restructured, and walked all over without meeting anyone. I haven't seen it inside since they finished the restructuring. It's often used now for conferences and exhibits. There's another good rustic restaurant near this castle, called the Taverna della Rocca. They have a huge open fireplace where they grill the meat and make their "crescie". A crescia is a type of marchigiano flat bread, which is usually served with cooked greens, all sorts of cured meats, pecorino cheese, and other things you can pile onto the crescia. They also have hand-made pasta. Again, nothing fancy and no attempt to be innovative, just good home cooking.
http://static.panoramio.com/photos/large/56551897.jpg
The scriptorium at Fonte Avellana, where the monks copied their manuscripts, is very interesting, as it's remained almost completely unchanged since its construction, except that the desks are no longer there. The windows, high up on the walls, were placed so that even illumination filled the room, with no shadows falling on any of the desks.
It's thought that Guido di Arezzo invented the modern system of musical notation when he was a monk at Fonte Avellana. Dante is also assumed to have stayed there; he mentions it in his Divine Comedy.
People from all over the region come to Fonte Avellana for mass on Sundays. If you visit the hermitage on a Sunday, you can have lunch in the monastery's refectory. Food is served on long tables; there's a fixed price and you eat what they're serving that day. It's good typical marchigiano home cooking, but nothing fancy. This is a very popular lunch, and you're supposed to have to reserve in advance. However, we were able to reserve for the same day at the bar on the monastery grounds.
There is a pharmacy on the grounds of the monastery, which sells all sorts of concoctions put up by monks of the Camaldolesi order.
This was a powerful and wealthy monastery in the middle ages, owning land almost all the way to the coast, including the town of Monterado, where Flame's castle is located. In fact, the original castle was constructed with a permit from the monastery. There are many small castles in the vicinity of the monastery which served as watch towers to warn of the approach of brigands. Two of the most charming are Piticchio and Loretello. You can see one from the walls of the other, I assume for the ease of signaling.
Another beautiful, but larger, castle that served to protect Fonte Avellana is in the upper town of Frontone. It's privately owned and has very limited visiting hours. My daughter and I once snuck in when it was being restructured, and walked all over without meeting anyone. I haven't seen it inside since they finished the restructuring. It's often used now for conferences and exhibits. There's another good rustic restaurant near this castle, called the Taverna della Rocca. They have a huge open fireplace where they grill the meat and make their "crescie". A crescia is a type of marchigiano flat bread, which is usually served with cooked greens, all sorts of cured meats, pecorino cheese, and other things you can pile onto the crescia. They also have hand-made pasta. Again, nothing fancy and no attempt to be innovative, just good home cooking.
May 14th, 2014, 05:15 AM
#24
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What wonderful information ann and bvlenci. Thanks.
Here is the continuation of my TR :
In the southern part of Le Marche, near Smerillo/Amandola in the Contrada Durano agriturismo, mentioned at the beginning.
On our drive towards Smerillo, we stopped in Corinaldo a beautiful small village nearby, and then in Ostra Vetere. We enjoyed both of them very much and the crisp cool weather and sun were lovely. We wandered about, enjoyed the small but sadly fairly empty streets.
We arrived at Contrado Durano just at 3 PM and were warmly welcomed. we had a lovely room and a welcome espresso drink. We enjoyed the high altitude and crisp air and just wandered around the grounds until it was time for dinner.
The next morning we had a delicious, full and homemade breakfast but it was raining.......
We decided to drive towards Amandola and there was a market day so not much parking was available. We drove through it, and went to Sarnano as our hostess had suggested. Again a lovely small town, small stores and few people. We then drove to Macerata, found some (free) parking and walked through the city, another market was just closing down, we saw just the tail end of it. Upon trying to leaave the city as we came, we had no luck and could not find the exit. SO we ended up going in a completely opposite direction towards the sea and passed through some other lovely towns lke Montepulone, Piceno Potenza, and several others whose names escape me right now. It was not an unpleasant way to spend a drizzly day.
After long while we ended up back on A14 at the sea and drove back to our place.
Here is the continuation of my TR :
In the southern part of Le Marche, near Smerillo/Amandola in the Contrada Durano agriturismo, mentioned at the beginning.
On our drive towards Smerillo, we stopped in Corinaldo a beautiful small village nearby, and then in Ostra Vetere. We enjoyed both of them very much and the crisp cool weather and sun were lovely. We wandered about, enjoyed the small but sadly fairly empty streets.
We arrived at Contrado Durano just at 3 PM and were warmly welcomed. we had a lovely room and a welcome espresso drink. We enjoyed the high altitude and crisp air and just wandered around the grounds until it was time for dinner.
The next morning we had a delicious, full and homemade breakfast but it was raining.......
We decided to drive towards Amandola and there was a market day so not much parking was available. We drove through it, and went to Sarnano as our hostess had suggested. Again a lovely small town, small stores and few people. We then drove to Macerata, found some (free) parking and walked through the city, another market was just closing down, we saw just the tail end of it. Upon trying to leaave the city as we came, we had no luck and could not find the exit. SO we ended up going in a completely opposite direction towards the sea and passed through some other lovely towns lke Montepulone, Piceno Potenza, and several others whose names escape me right now. It was not an unpleasant way to spend a drizzly day.
After long while we ended up back on A14 at the sea and drove back to our place.
May 14th, 2014, 05:47 AM
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Love the report Flame!!! ANd thank you so much for all the info Bvlenci! Great info for our next trip in Aug!
I am so glad you enjoyed the winery...we are going to try to do one of their winery dinners in the vines this summer...
Keep it coming!
I am so glad you enjoyed the winery...we are going to try to do one of their winery dinners in the vines this summer...
Keep it coming!
May 14th, 2014, 08:16 AM
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I wonder if you were in Corinaldo and Ostra Vetere at lunchtime. Both towns have plenty of people on the streets in the morning and late afternoon. Corinaldo is also pretty lively in the evening; young people come from other towns to the popular bars and osterie there.
Corinaldo has the best preserved medieval walls in Le Marche. It's completely surrounded by its walls, with all three original gates, and most of its guard towers. The town sustained two sieges during the wars between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines.
Corinaldo has the best preserved medieval walls in Le Marche. It's completely surrounded by its walls, with all three original gates, and most of its guard towers. The town sustained two sieges during the wars between the Guelphs and the Ghibellines.
May 16th, 2014, 02:23 AM
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Jamikins - A winery dinner in the vines during summer............. sounds amazing.........
bvlenci - no we were around in the late morning mostly.
Here is some more :
Today it is actually an even worse weather day and I had no idea what we shall do !!So we decided to go shopping!! Hey what can you do right? LOL. There are lots of outlets here like Prada and such but I decided to slum it and was a supermarket whore!! Meaning I went into about five different ones and bought great stuff, both as gifts and to bring back home (i.e. the usual - wine, cheeses, specially shaped pastas we don't get at home, concentrated tomato paste, etc.).
Since they are only open till 13:00 there was only so much time for shopping. Wink..... and space in the suitcase. But I managed very well.
I thought to drive around some more but there seemed little reason in the tain, so we just stopped in Servigliano near our agriturismo for a cappuco and cornetto after driving by the small village of Belmonte Piceno and were back at Durano by 2:30.
Next day we finally had a lovely weather day and we returned to Ascoli Piceno - the town we originally stayed in for three days on our first foray into Le Marche about 3 years ago.
We had our usual delish breakfast and were out in the car by 9:15 already. Got to gorgeous Ascoli Piceno and felt very much at home, walking around, going back to the places we remembered, the coffee houses, the restaurants, the streets and stores. They were setting up for the Fritto Misto festival which starts today and lasts about 10 days I think. It literally means Mixed Fried and that is what it is all about. i.e. everything Fried Food.
I easily found OUR parking lot from last time and everything else was nice and familiar and easy. We had coffee at beautiful and elegant Cafe Meletti on the square and people watched.
It is Liberation Day here so yet ANOTHER holiday that we fell into and so only some stores were open. That did not stop ME though. I bought a winter vest for my granddaughter at Benetton !! And I found a store with Le Mer products but they were SOOOO expensive.
By then they were finished setting up and so we walked around all the booths. Then went into the beautiful churches in the squares and returned to the car after a very nice few hours.
We then drove to Offida where we were also last time and re-kindled our love for it as well. I think the old lady we met last time might have died as I saw her house was for sale. We had quite a talk last time.....
We drove on gorgeous roads and continually saw amazing views. We went to Cossignano, Montalto di Marche, Carassai and then back towards home through Comunanza and Amandola and returned around 4 PM.
bvlenci - no we were around in the late morning mostly.
Here is some more :
Today it is actually an even worse weather day and I had no idea what we shall do !!So we decided to go shopping!! Hey what can you do right? LOL. There are lots of outlets here like Prada and such but I decided to slum it and was a supermarket whore!! Meaning I went into about five different ones and bought great stuff, both as gifts and to bring back home (i.e. the usual - wine, cheeses, specially shaped pastas we don't get at home, concentrated tomato paste, etc.).
Since they are only open till 13:00 there was only so much time for shopping. Wink..... and space in the suitcase. But I managed very well.
I thought to drive around some more but there seemed little reason in the tain, so we just stopped in Servigliano near our agriturismo for a cappuco and cornetto after driving by the small village of Belmonte Piceno and were back at Durano by 2:30.
Next day we finally had a lovely weather day and we returned to Ascoli Piceno - the town we originally stayed in for three days on our first foray into Le Marche about 3 years ago.
We had our usual delish breakfast and were out in the car by 9:15 already. Got to gorgeous Ascoli Piceno and felt very much at home, walking around, going back to the places we remembered, the coffee houses, the restaurants, the streets and stores. They were setting up for the Fritto Misto festival which starts today and lasts about 10 days I think. It literally means Mixed Fried and that is what it is all about. i.e. everything Fried Food.
I easily found OUR parking lot from last time and everything else was nice and familiar and easy. We had coffee at beautiful and elegant Cafe Meletti on the square and people watched.
It is Liberation Day here so yet ANOTHER holiday that we fell into and so only some stores were open. That did not stop ME though. I bought a winter vest for my granddaughter at Benetton !! And I found a store with Le Mer products but they were SOOOO expensive.
By then they were finished setting up and so we walked around all the booths. Then went into the beautiful churches in the squares and returned to the car after a very nice few hours.
We then drove to Offida where we were also last time and re-kindled our love for it as well. I think the old lady we met last time might have died as I saw her house was for sale. We had quite a talk last time.....
We drove on gorgeous roads and continually saw amazing views. We went to Cossignano, Montalto di Marche, Carassai and then back towards home through Comunanza and Amandola and returned around 4 PM.
May 16th, 2014, 09:56 AM
#28
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And here is the last bit :
On our last full day we woke up to anther lovely weather day and we used the time for going around the entire Monti Sibillini National Park here, and which we are in the midst of at Contrada Durano.
We started out towards Montemarco and Montegallo and then eventually got to Castelluccio in the Piano Grande, which is actually in Umbria and the place we had been years ago and were astounded by it. So we re-visited and it was even more spectacular than we remembered. In Castelluccio, there are several restaurants and stores that specialize in a certain lentil only available here. I had not tried it before, timing was right and since we knew evening would not include the very large dinner here tonight because we told her we would not have dinner there, we each had a bowl at a nice place overlooking the Piano Grande and being so close to the snow capped mountains we could almost touch them !!
After coffee, we continued on our way and went through several places : Visso, Ussita, took a wrong “turn” and went to Frontignano, which looked right according to the map but it kind of “ends” and there is no more where to go from there (!!!!!), so back towards Ussita, a visit to the beautiful Sanctuario di Macereto, and then towards Acquacanina, Fiastra, and finally down towards Bolognola where afterwards in our efforts to get back “home” we went up and up and UPPPPPPP so high on this curving road that we got INTO a rain cloud and could literally not see two inches in front of me. There was NOTHING we could do but continue, no place to stop by the side (even though it seemed to me like it was not something that would blow over), no place to decide to turn around and back down, etc.). It was literally THE scariest ride we EVER had. Thankfully we can tell about it so you KNOW it worked out OK, but man oh man !!!!!!
We stopped at a supermarket before coming back to our room and bought some supplies for dinner, then filled the car up with "its" food and got some plates and silverware from our hostess and we had a lovely picnic dinner in our room.
Next day was our last day here. We got up as usual, had a lovely breakfast, talked with our hosts, as usual. And then went to our room to pack our suitcases, NOT as usual. LOL. We hung out in the room and around the agriturismo till about 11 AM, when we decided to pack up the car and start our way towards Fiumicino Airport. It was early and we had lots of time but we are always worried about getting to the airport on time, etc.
The day started out with nice weather BUT as soon as we crossed the region border into Abruzzo, the skies opened up and we had SUCH a downpour and rain and cold and fog, and it STAYED like that all the way to, and including the airport. It was not fun to drive even though we WERE on the highway, but still I think I was quite traumatized by yesterday’s harrowing ride…….
We stopped at an Autogrill around 3PM for a light meal and saw the canonization of the two popes taking place live at the Vatican just then. James had told us about it and when we got closer towards Rome, we saw buses upon buses with Polish writing = pilgrims who had come for this festival. He told us we would see these as well.
We got to the airport and effortlessly returned the car by 5 PM and had LOTS of free time, especially since the flight also ended up being delayed by, first they said one hour, and in the end almost two.
Another adventure sadly ends in my beloved Italia.......
I will be happy to answer any questions or help with anything I can for you lucky future visitors to Le Marche!!
Arrivaderci !!
On our last full day we woke up to anther lovely weather day and we used the time for going around the entire Monti Sibillini National Park here, and which we are in the midst of at Contrada Durano.
We started out towards Montemarco and Montegallo and then eventually got to Castelluccio in the Piano Grande, which is actually in Umbria and the place we had been years ago and were astounded by it. So we re-visited and it was even more spectacular than we remembered. In Castelluccio, there are several restaurants and stores that specialize in a certain lentil only available here. I had not tried it before, timing was right and since we knew evening would not include the very large dinner here tonight because we told her we would not have dinner there, we each had a bowl at a nice place overlooking the Piano Grande and being so close to the snow capped mountains we could almost touch them !!
After coffee, we continued on our way and went through several places : Visso, Ussita, took a wrong “turn” and went to Frontignano, which looked right according to the map but it kind of “ends” and there is no more where to go from there (!!!!!), so back towards Ussita, a visit to the beautiful Sanctuario di Macereto, and then towards Acquacanina, Fiastra, and finally down towards Bolognola where afterwards in our efforts to get back “home” we went up and up and UPPPPPPP so high on this curving road that we got INTO a rain cloud and could literally not see two inches in front of me. There was NOTHING we could do but continue, no place to stop by the side (even though it seemed to me like it was not something that would blow over), no place to decide to turn around and back down, etc.). It was literally THE scariest ride we EVER had. Thankfully we can tell about it so you KNOW it worked out OK, but man oh man !!!!!!
We stopped at a supermarket before coming back to our room and bought some supplies for dinner, then filled the car up with "its" food and got some plates and silverware from our hostess and we had a lovely picnic dinner in our room.
Next day was our last day here. We got up as usual, had a lovely breakfast, talked with our hosts, as usual. And then went to our room to pack our suitcases, NOT as usual. LOL. We hung out in the room and around the agriturismo till about 11 AM, when we decided to pack up the car and start our way towards Fiumicino Airport. It was early and we had lots of time but we are always worried about getting to the airport on time, etc.
The day started out with nice weather BUT as soon as we crossed the region border into Abruzzo, the skies opened up and we had SUCH a downpour and rain and cold and fog, and it STAYED like that all the way to, and including the airport. It was not fun to drive even though we WERE on the highway, but still I think I was quite traumatized by yesterday’s harrowing ride…….
We stopped at an Autogrill around 3PM for a light meal and saw the canonization of the two popes taking place live at the Vatican just then. James had told us about it and when we got closer towards Rome, we saw buses upon buses with Polish writing = pilgrims who had come for this festival. He told us we would see these as well.
We got to the airport and effortlessly returned the car by 5 PM and had LOTS of free time, especially since the flight also ended up being delayed by, first they said one hour, and in the end almost two.
Another adventure sadly ends in my beloved Italia.......
I will be happy to answer any questions or help with anything I can for you lucky future visitors to Le Marche!!
Arrivaderci !!
May 17th, 2014, 12:14 AM
#32
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I think I will leave the trip writing to Scott, so yes a report will be in the plans 
. I will stick to photography haha!
We plan to buy a farmhouse there in the future so want to spend some time looking around with that hat on. Sassocavaro looked likely last time but we just drove through last year. We want to spend a day there this year. Southern Le Marche is definitely in the plans. A long drive from La Tavola Marche where we always stay but we are up for it and of course some cooking lessons!
Next up though we are heading to the French Alps next weekend for a weeklong cooking course at a chalet b&b. Then a week in Alsace...so that will be the next TR!
What are your next plans?
. I will stick to photography haha!We plan to buy a farmhouse there in the future so want to spend some time looking around with that hat on. Sassocavaro looked likely last time but we just drove through last year. We want to spend a day there this year. Southern Le Marche is definitely in the plans. A long drive from La Tavola Marche where we always stay but we are up for it
and of course some cooking lessons!Next up though we are heading to the French Alps next weekend for a weeklong cooking course at a chalet b&b. Then a week in Alsace...so that will be the next TR!
What are your next plans?
May 17th, 2014, 01:00 AM
#33
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That sounds terribly exciting and adventurous. I am totally and completely envious (of the farmhouse I mean!!).
Our next plans will be in the fall (we don't like to travel during the hot summers), and it is still in debate between a return to Provence or to Spain's costa brava!!
Our next plans will be in the fall (we don't like to travel during the hot summers), and it is still in debate between a return to Provence or to Spain's costa brava!!
May 17th, 2014, 03:36 AM
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Flame, I've been in Fiastra, but not in Bolognola, so I haven't been on that road. However, in the Sibillines, and even in the foothills to the north of the park, there are lots of scary roads. We spend a good part of every summer in southern Le Marche, and we've been on more than one road that starts out with asphalt, turns to gravel, and gradually the pieces of gravel get bigger and bigger until they can only be called boulders.
Last summer we took a road that a neighbor of ours assured us was a good road all the way. Even though we were driving a small 4-wheel-drive Panda, we were afraid we were going to ruin the undercarriage. There was no place at all to turn around without risking going the fastest way down the mountain. When we got back, I asked our neighbor when he had last taken that road, and he told us it was over 20 years ago!
Jamikins, if you're interested in southern Le Marche, I suggest you check out the upper Potenza valley, anywhere from Castelraimondo to the Umbrian border. I truly love that area; I've wondered if I lived there in a former life. There's a nice agriturismo called La Castagna in the comune of Fiuminata that has a good restaurant and a pool. The restaurant is very popular with people living in the area for family gatherings or Sunday dinners. The road in is a bit rough, but short. There's a parking lot about half way up where some people leave their cars, but we've gone the whole way even in our other car. Just be careful!
Last summer we took a road that a neighbor of ours assured us was a good road all the way. Even though we were driving a small 4-wheel-drive Panda, we were afraid we were going to ruin the undercarriage. There was no place at all to turn around without risking going the fastest way down the mountain. When we got back, I asked our neighbor when he had last taken that road, and he told us it was over 20 years ago!
Jamikins, if you're interested in southern Le Marche, I suggest you check out the upper Potenza valley, anywhere from Castelraimondo to the Umbrian border. I truly love that area; I've wondered if I lived there in a former life. There's a nice agriturismo called La Castagna in the comune of Fiuminata that has a good restaurant and a pool. The restaurant is very popular with people living in the area for family gatherings or Sunday dinners. The road in is a bit rough, but short. There's a parking lot about half way up where some people leave their cars, but we've gone the whole way even in our other car. Just be careful!
May 17th, 2014, 10:32 AM
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bvlenci - when we were in the teeny tiny town of Bolognola and I was not entirely sure about the road we were about to take, (and it began pouring rain to make it even worse), I stopped to ask several people about it. Obviously no one there spoke English but with my rusty Italian and their obvious willigness to help, I felt assured that indeed it was the right dirction to take. HOWEVER, one of the men tried to explain something to me that I did not understand and it SOUNDED like he was trying to tell me that "my car was not suitable for that road". I was not entirely sure. Now this road was not as you describe your experience as "one road that starts out with asphalt, turns to gravel, and gradually the pieces of gravel get bigger and bigger until they can only be called boulders". No, this was a regular road, but very windy and constantly climbing up. So I still don't know what he was trying to say because obviously it was not my car that was not suitable for the road. It was something else he was trying to warn me about!!
I guess there would not be a way to find out answers to these curiosities. Oh well.
I guess there would not be a way to find out answers to these curiosities. Oh well.
May 17th, 2014, 12:15 PM
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There are lots of roads like that in Italy. It's a very mountainous country. If you see a road on a map that has lots and lots of bends, you can be sure that it's also climbing.
However, looking at that road on the relief-map version of Google Maps, it doesn't look as though it climbs all that much between Fiastra and Bolognola. Beyond Bolognola, though, the Strada Provinciale 120 looks like a plate of spaghetti. Is that the part you were on?
However, looking at that road on the relief-map version of Google Maps, it doesn't look as though it climbs all that much between Fiastra and Bolognola. Beyond Bolognola, though, the Strada Provinciale 120 looks like a plate of spaghetti. Is that the part you were on?
