suelh

NICE MEMORIES:

At JFK, waiting for departure, a young Irish woman sat down next to me and almost immediately began chatting (this experience was the beginning of meeting so many friendly folk throughout Ireland). She had been over to the US to visit her cousin in NYC and do some shopping. She had a wonderful lilt to her speech, and we had fun talking. I also learned from her the correct pronunciation of Donegal (i.e., the accent is on the last syllable, and not the first, as I had been saying -- and it's gahl, not gal). She sent Bob and me off with a most cheery greeting and wished us well on our visit. A great beginning!

Once the plane was finally airborne, Bob looked over at me and gave me a big smile and a "high five" -- we really were on our way. Early the next am, as we drew closer to Dublin, the sky was still dark except for one bright shining star (or probably a planet) -- at any rate, I couldn't help but recite the children's rhyme: "Star light, star bright," etc. Then, suddenly, a smattering of lights below began to show and gradually more came into view: DUBLIN! We ARE in Ireland!

We enjoyed our few days in Dublin and saw so many interesting sights, and enjoyed all of the adventures -- I don't understand those people who dislike Dublin. I wouldn't necessarily spend time there again, preferring the countryside and little towns, but goodness! for a first visit, the city is fascinating! Also, because it was October, we didn't have to deal with major tourist crowds or lines (e.g., there were only about 6 of us looking at the Book of Kells, while I understand that in the summer the room can be filled -- ugh). So many interesting sights to see, we thought (and whoever could forget the magnificent Library at Trinity College!).

So, we were glad to have started the trip in Dublin, but must confess we were eager to get out to the countryside. Oh, one other memory from Dublin was a sweet moment as we left the National Art Museum and had spied a bench in a courtyard outside a nearby gov't. bldg. where we had decided to take a break. There were several large trees that had dropped lots of fall leaves on the winding path up to the entrance and near the bench where we sat. Out of the building came a young mother with a little girl, perhaps 4 or 5 years old, and she ran and gleefully leaned down to pick up handsfull of leaves and toss them up in the air over her head. She was laughing merrily and so was her mother, and so were we. What a joyful sight to watch that young child. Our hearts were warmed.

MORE TRIP DETAILS:

POWERSCOURT, GLENDALOUGH: Well, after two very full days in Dublin, we were eager to depart and on to sightseeing and the countryside. So, Thursday began the real Ireland adventures. We felt like a couple of kids (note: to appreciate this, you need to know we've been married 45 years, right out of college) -- well, you're only as old as you feel, right?! So, away we went -- on to Powerscourt Gardens. We enjoyed the visit and walks through the various garden levels, and then had a nice lunch there as well. Then to Glendalough -- oh, wondrous, magical, mystical setting. Again, there were only several people there besides ourselves, and so the place felt like our own private setting. Truly captured us.

AVOCA: We then made our way to Avoca, which I just had to see, due to "Ballykissangel." What fun we had there and so enjoyed our B&B and hosts. Also, some of the BallyK crew had stayed at the B&B during each filming session, so Brendan regaled us with behind-the-scenes stories. He and Rose enjoyed the crew and cast and appreciated all the business that the series brought, needless to say. Brendan, a true Irishman indeed, knew the history of the Vale of Avoca thoroughly and told us so many interesting items about the area. He was grand and so was Rose. And through Brendan's recommendation, we had one of our best pub experiences and absolutely the best music of the trip -- just magical -- at the Woodenbridge Hotel, Vale of Avoca, Arklow, Co. Wicklow

ON TO KILKENNY, CASHEL, CAHIR:: Leaving Avoca the next morn after a fine Irish breakfast, we drove through Arklow, on to New Ross, through Waterford (no, we didn't tour,as we had recently seen a major travelogue re Waterford crystal, and thought we'd pass on the tour there). We stopped in Kilkenny, but it was overrun with tourist buses and people -- very busy, for whatever reason, tho' it was a Friday and perhaps there are more visitors for the weekend? Anyway, we needed lunch, so tried to find a place in Kilkenny but everything was so busy -- finally, went in the health food store, where we got the recommendation for El Cafe Sol (had to laugh that we would be going to a Latin America theme restaurant). It was on a side street, evidently popular with the locals, and was not so noisy and busy, and the food was very fresh and good -- for lunch, salads, soup and sandwiches -- even wine. Dinner menu looked quite interesting. We then left busy Kilkenny, just too much hustle-bustle for us.

Arrived in Cashel, and I've already mentioned our B&B experience. The Rock, of course, was so dramatic, and really cast a spell. The next morning, in the early dawn, there were crows flying all about the top of the Rock and swarming and swooping -- it looked like a scene from "Macbeth" or "King Lear" -- very eerie and almost hypnotizing. Tried several restaurants for dinner that the B&B suggested, but there were waits at them (it was Friday night). We asked a man on the street and he sent us to the Castle Hotel's restaurant which was a lovely, upscale place, with a pianist and a quiet, elegant ambiance. Food was quite good -- nicely served and prepared (we had fish). The place we wished we could have experienced for dinner was "The Cellar" adjoining Bailey's Guesthouse. It looked like so much fun and full of merry folk, but the wait was 1 1/2 hours!

Saturday we toured the Rock, of course, and it was spellbinding -- not very many folk, and really remarkable experience being there. Then on to Cahir, and another amazing castle. We marvelled at how people managed in those times!

KILLARNEY TO KENMARE: Then, once again on our way, this time to Kenmare through Killarney. Killarney, which some criticize as being so touristy, seemed fine to us, tho' we didn't linger (and, it was October, so not too many tourists, which made the town seem fine to us!). As we headed over the lovely Killarney route through the National Park, we had a bit of bad luck -- a blowout! A very desolate area, too! The road, of course, was narrow, and we had been forced over by a bus to the very edges and we figure we hit a rock. Of course, there was no shoulder to park with the bad tire and very little room to pull over, but Bob managed to park us somehow. We used our cell phone and eventually got help. A very nice man came at last from the garage in Killarney and one, two, three, he had everything taken care of. Did point out to us that one of the other tires also had a gouge. Lucky us! Anyway, we made it over to Kenmare, on the spare, after another run-in with a huge tourist bus coming right at us high up in the pass. Whew...

In Kenmare, we had planned to go to one of the B&B's that had been mentioned alot, but the owner was about to leave for several days and could only take us for one day, so we didn't stay there. But, we found the "The Lodge" which I mentioned, and truly enjoyed our three days there. I guess it's true that "there are no accidents," as the same B&B situation happened to us in Avoca, in Kenmare, in Dingle, also near Galway, and in Donegal!! Everything works for a reason, as we are told, and our ultimate places to stay were much more to our liking. Funny how things work out.

We drove the Beara Peninsula while in Kenmare, electing to do that over the Ring, based on comments on Frommer's and also some tour books. We loved it, and it truly was remote. While making our way back towards town, we were on a narrow (of course!) road with high hedges and growth, and not too certain that we had made the right turn to get back. When, all of a sudden, we came around the bend and there, in the middle of nowhere, was a pub! With a lot of people outside enjoying their Guinness or whatever! It was a shock indeed to see this scene -- they were having the best time (a Sunday afternoon). Now the road ended at the pub and then you could drive to the left or to the right...Bob rolled down the window and asked a young man if the road to the right was the road to Kenmare. "Uh, yes, you can get to Kenmare on that road." We thanked him, and moved on -- only to soon have the road become a wagon rut which truly would have been an adventure! With our bad tires, we wisely went back to the pub gathering, and of course everyone turns and looks at The Tourists...so this time Bob asks two older men about the route, this time pointing to the left. "Yes, you can get to Kenmare on that road, " he replies, and then, "It's a bit bendy, but it will take you there." OK, on our way, and as we drove out of sight, the man called out one more thing: "Watch out for the cars!"...and the other man called: " And the sheep!!" They were right, too! That experience with the pub folk really made us laugh. But, we did make it back -- hooray. But where did all those people come from???!!

Kenmare became one of our favorite places -- wouldn't want to be there in the summer with a lot of tourists, but the community was a delight in October! "Quill's," the major shop in town with lovely wool/cashmere, crystal, Belleek, was a store I could have stayed in all day! It's also owned by the people who own the main hotel and our B&B -- quite a family! One of the nicer dinners of the trip was at "D'Arcy's" in town, as recommended by the B&B, who made reservations for us in fact. Very enjoyable and very good food, and pleasant ambiance.

The Druid Circle near town was a special highlight, on a Sunday morning, when all was still and quiet, and noone there but us. The church bells rang, too, and the feeling was so special at that moment as we stood in the Circle, wondering about the mystery of it all.

Walking later by the beautiful Holy Cross Catholic Church,in the center of town, which was having Sunday Mass, I left Bob taking pictures and walked into the entry which was glass-enclosed and had audio from the church piped in. The service ended a short time later with the priest leading the congregation in a closing hymn, and then walking out with the altar boys, as the people continued singing. The priest, about 35-40, tall and handsome, with a good face, looked spendid in his white robes and kelly green cassock, and he had a fine voice. But, once he left the sound system, all that could be heard was rather weak singing from the congregation -- well, as he passed into the entry where I was, and no longer could be heard by the others, he smiled at me, rolled his eyes, kind of shaking his head, and said in a wonderful Irish brogue, "Ah, a mighty choir!" I have laughed so many times in my mind, as I replay that scenario. He was grand indeed, and I followed him outside as he waited for the people to flow out -- he greeted me and inquired about our travels, etc., wished us a lovely holiday. He was so kind. I was rather mesmerized!

Monday, October 11, we took care of "chores," i.e., I went to the laundromat while Bob went to the garage to get two new tires! Curiously, the couple running the laundromat and adjoining cleaners turned out to be the very nice couple we had sat near at dinner the night before, who had two young boys who were delightful -- obviously alot of love in the family. We had fun connecting again on Monday am.

Another fun anecdote occurred Sunday afternoon as we were walking about Kenmare, in that a young woman was coming towards me with two darling little children, brother and sister, maybe 3 and 4? I asked her if she would mind if I took the children's picture and she smilingly obliged as did the children. Then, in talking a little further, I realized she had a strong European accent, not Irish! I politely inquired as to where she was originally from, and she answered: "Lithuania." So much for getting a picture of Irish children!! Ah well, they still were adorable and dressed so cute, and the mother seemed happy that I thought so!

Our weather during this 3-day stay was wonderful -- crisp at night, a few showers now and then, rainbows, combined with sunny fall weather. Perfect, we thought, since we are not "sunbirds" Everywhere we went people asked us what we thought about the weather, and we had to keep reassuring folk that we were from the Seattle area, so that we had similar weather indeed. And besides, we had our Gore-Tex jackets and portable umbrellas -- no problem.

FROM KENMARE TO TRALEE TO DINGLE: We left Kenmare on Tuesday, Oct. 12, and headed to Tralee. After checking with the TI, we took ourselves to the RR/bus depot, got bus tickets to Dingle and left the car. Talked with a number of friendly folk while waiting for the bus, then off to Dingle and for a change, Bob got to enjoy the scenery and relax. In Dingle we arrived in a bit of a squall, so made our way to Murphy's Pub and had lunch and got our questions answered! Found a place to stay and had another three days of adventures and great times, especially music at Murphy's one night and another night at John Benny Moriarty's (both of which were close to our B&B).

One of many highlights for our trip was a tour of the Dingle Peninsula with Tim Collins of Sciuird Archaeology Tours, on a mini-van (maybe 12 people?). Rick Steves highlights this tour, and it was grand in every way with Tim being one of the nicest, most informed people. He is a retired garda, and his daughter and son-in-law are archeologists, thus he had great knowledge about the area and the sites we went to see. And, in the little mini-bus, we scooted here and there into areas where most probably don't venture. Loved the trip! And the Dingle Peninsula was magnificent, with so many historical and archeological sites. Tim made the tour fascinating and much fun, too.

Weather continues to be much like home -- temps in the 50's, but it's quite mild in the warm sun. Rain showers come and go, clouds roll in and out in beautiful formations, and blue, blue sky with green, green hills -- "40 shades of green." Rainbows too!!

Bob points out this afternoon that of the 20 nights to be spent in Ireland, we are half-way through. Tonight is our 10th night -- 10 to go. It was great to know we still had that much time left!!

FROM DINGLE TO GALWAY (Salthill area): Tuesday, Oct. 19 -- back on the bus to pick up our car, and then North to Galway area, the Salthill neighborhood, where again we spent 3 nights. (Along the way, we stopped in Adare, where we had a very nice lunch at the Arches Restaurant on the main road through town. Interesting historical bldg., too, and very nice people and good food.)

While in Salthill, one day was spent visiting the Burren and Cliffs of Moher, and another day visiting Connemara, Kylemore Abbey, and the route back along the coast where the thatched roofs are and rock walls, etc. (near Rossaveal). The B&B hosts arranged these great tours, and we even were picked up at our B&B each morning. The Burren and Cliffs tour (O'Neachtain Tours) was headed by "Desmond, King of the Burren" -- what a hoot! This trip was a great day, with a real expert who made the tour so fascinating and so much fun, Irish music on tape from time to time, as Des sang along! We saw so much and learned so much. Had another tourist take a picture of the two of us at the Cliffs, windblown and windswept, with Bob in his Donegal tweed cap that he had bought in Dingle. We enclosed the photo in our Christmas cards, which I found in Donegal -- a great hit with family and friends. Our lunch on this tour was in Doolin at O'Connor's Pub, and we had a great time there, the whole area so picturesque.

The next day was the other tour, with Martin on O'Neachtain Tours -- again we got picked up and dropped off right at the B&B. How nice is that! Martin was a very pleasant man and also made the trip so informative and interesting. We had a beautiful day for the tour (with a brief squall at Kylemore). Kylemore, without very many people, was just wondrous and we thoroughly enjoyed the visit, as well as the lunch there too. AND, I finally got my picture of adorable Irish children! This time, I knew for sure they were Irish as the parents and the two little ones spoke with a clear Irish accent, and the Mom and children had bright red hair! Everyone oh's and ah's over that picture when looking at our album. The red hair clinches the deal, that's for sure.

The favorite restaurant of our trip turned out to be in Salthill, "The Rockbarton," just a short walk from Marless and Liscarra B&B's along the beautiful Galway Bay and up into the neighborhood, hidden away. It is also an Inn, and just wonderful -- we wanted to take the place and staff home with us. What a great neighborhood establishment -- just charming, and I would totally endorse it as did our hosts from Liscarra, Ethna and Brendan. Indeed, we went back our second night and they were there too and were so gracious in greeting us, and then Brendan came to the table and insisted on buying us a drink. These two were just wonderful in every way. And then another Irish pair sat down at the table next to us, and we got into conversation and they, too, insisted on an after-dinner drink. My goodness, what hospitality, and we found that to be true everywhere we went.

FROM GALWAY TO DONEGAL: Monday, Oct. 18, we're off again and excitedly looking forward to heading North. Once out of Galway, the scenery became so pastoral and beautiful. We reached Sligo in time for lunch and toyed with the idea of staying there, but the main streets in town were being torn up and traffic congestion was a problem. In addition, the B&B suggested to us was not what we wanted and the dear woman there seemed a little spaced and not prepared. So, we pushed on to Donegal and are we glad we did. Another 3 days in heaven -- we just loved Donegal. We ended up in the lovliest, rural setting overlooking Lough Eske, and yet not far from the town. Mary doesn't even lock her doors...imagine!

We toured the Donegal Castle one day (another great tour, with an Irish gentleman, Danny, who was delightful), and also we rode in a tour boat around Donegal Bay and again learned a great deal of history. Another Day Trip was to Belleek, and both Bob and I were enchanted with that visit. We were two of six people on the tour, had a chance to talk to the artisans, to look at the museum pieces, and to wander the gift shop at leisure without hardly any people. That visit was our most expensive stop -- I ended up buying various items for our home and for Christmas gifts, and had the big box shipped to us. Bob kept saying, But can't you find Belleek at home in the stores, or order through the web? My reply: it's not the same as buying it when you are actually in IRELAND!!

At Donegal Bay, the Abbey ruins overlooking the Bay are mysterious and wondrous, especially when one learns the history of these ruins. Another special experience.

And a fun shopping experience in Donegal, was at Magee's, home of Donegal tweed, another store I could have spent a good deal more time in.

Again, so many nice adventures here in Donegal and we met so many special people, including our hostess at Ardeevin, Mary, with her dear neighbor, Kathleen (the light of our life -- 78 years old, active, loving and with a stong brogue, as cute as a button and with red hair. When we left she had to run out and give one more hug -- what a little doll) Mary gets an award too for the very BEST scones of the trip -- oh, they melted in your mouth. YUMMY! The brown bread was scrumptious too!.

We also encountered a storm one day that brought hail, briefly, in town, where we were checking and sending email, and snow to the mts. all around Donegal. Lovely! But that night it got down to 37 and breezy, so it was chilly -- but again, we're used to this back in the Seattle area, so no problem.

FROM DONEGAL TO TRIM: Thursday, Oct. 21, reluctantly we left Donegal and headed through the Midlands and on to Trim. What a great stop that was! We were at Tigh Cathain, just outside of town, and enjoyed this comfortable country home, a real Irish home. And, the best part, the bedroom and bathroom were large! lol We enjoyed this little town very much (again, no crowds). Fun to see Trim Castle, where parts of Mel Gibson's "Braveheart" were filmed. One day we journeyed over to Hill of Tara and were fascinated (having recently seen an historical film on PBS about "Mystical Ireland" and its mythology and Druid history, in which the Hill of Tara was featured and there were overhead shots of the area). We truly thought the area was special. From there we went to see Newgrange and again, what an experience to go inside the burial hill. Just amazing in every way.

The special highlight of the Trim visit has to be going into McCormack's Pub and having "Captain Johnny Bligh" welcome us, along with a retired garda, Frank ("Frankie&quot, and we ended up staying about 3 hours, sharing several rounds, that's for sure. When I told Marie about it the next day, she said, "Ah, 'tis the Irish way!" Yes, indeed! We finally begged off for dinner, as by then it was after 9pm, and invited them to dinner too. But Frank needed to get home, and Johnny wasn't ready yet (tho' he did join us later). Incidentally, Johnny truly is a descentdant of the original Captain Bligh. He was the highlight of our Irish adventures, that's for sure. Marie had nothing but high praise for him, as he was a widower who raised 3 fine children after his wife died of breast cancer. He had story after story, and seemed to love greeting the two tired "Yanks" who stumbled into the pub during a rain storm, while waiting for the restaurant across the street to open at 6:30 pm!

The next day we went up to Kells to see the Heritage Center and Museum -- lovely fall colors along the way and at the Center. We enjoyed ourselves, especially seeing the old Celtic crosses, some of which had come from the center of town. That night, despite offers from Johnny to return to the pub, we decided we best skip the partying! One night was enough!

Staying with us at the B&B were two widows from Nova Scotia, having a great trip, and each morning at breakfast, we shared stories of our various activities. In discussing driving and the roads (!), they told us of a hilarious moment in their travels nearby when they came upon traffic signs that read: SLOW, MORE SLOW, DEAD SLOW. Hilarious!

DONEGAL TO MALAHIDE TO SANTRY (near Dublin airport): Sunday, October 24, our last day in lovely Ireland -- we leave the Trim B&B, and head for Malahide where we visit the castle there. What a wondrous sight, and so interesting, and with gorgeous grounds -- acres! Again, fall colors everywhere, too. The interior of the castle had been used and lived in until recently by descendants of the original family. Amazing.

From there to a little town on the coast (I can't remember the name at the moment), where we ate at a little pub that some people recommended. It was the site of the former RR station, and was called "The Bloody Stream." Not too appetizing, but the placemats had the history of the site, explaining the battle that had taken place there, and so the name was then understandable. At any rate, the place was cozy and food good. Then on to the airport area, leave car at Hertz (Bob gives big sigh of relief!), and shuttle takes us to Holiday Inn Crowne Plaza, in Santry, and it's back to reality, alas.

BACK TO USA: The next am, of course, we're on our way home -- but, what was wondrous, was that we sat near the wing and out my window I watched all the way back to JFK the green shamrock on the wing's tip of Aer Lingus. Loved that! And, in fact, took a picture out the window of it, with clouds and blue sky in the background. Wonderful!

So, back to NYC and seeing our daughter and son-in-law and telling all about our adventures. The next day we then went to see Louis Armstrong's home which is now a national heritage site and museum -- very interesting, and a complete change back to American heritage indeed!

FROM NYC TO SEATTLE: Our flight home was at 5 that afternoon, and so homeward bound we were, two very happy folk. Ireland was everything we hoped it would be, and we met so many wonderful, warm and caring folk (and from other countries, too!). The beauty of the land and the joy the people share in their lives has been a life-changing experience for us. I especially felt as though I had returned home,being part Irish, and Marie at the Trim B&B told me, "Ah, it's your genes, my dear, that you're feelin'." Yes, indeed...

CLOSING: So, readers, if you're still with me, go, enjoy Ireland -- have no worries. Wherever we went, we met so many kind people, people who smiled and greeted us, who made us feel so welcomed. Ireland truly is a wondrous place, full of beauty, and having the most gracious and kind people...the trip was a dream-come-true for us. Happy and safe travels to all....

Jackie

Sue,

I enjoyed your trip report and took notes for my July trip. How long did it take you to see Powercourt and Glendalough? We will be traveling from Cashel to Dublin. I'd like to see both without feeling rushed. Can you advise? Thanks

rickmav

Great trip report, Sue. And what a terric itinerary. You hit a lot of wonderful things without sounding too rushed.

A few comments. I'm one of those people that wasn't that crazy about Dublin. Perhaps, it was, as you said, because we were so eager to get to the countryside. I'm certainly glad I went, but wouldn't go again.

We also loved Glendalough. Found it very spiritual and some good exercise after all those pub meals. What B&B did you stay at in Avoca? I think the place we stayed at was Glendale House. They also recommended the Woodenbridge Hotel. We had great meals there and enjoyed the ambience. Did you have a pint at Fitzgerald's?

Glad you had such a great time. New visitors to Ireland would be wise to follow your itinerary for an overall taste of Ireland.

suelh

Dear Jackie and rickmay:

Thank you both so much for such nice comments. By the way, my report had to be put into two parts, so I don't know if you had a chance to find the first part which is listed as "Oct.'04 Ireland Trip Report Overview." In it I have the itinerary and also where we stayed, and some other incidentals. It is posted further down on the Fodor's column.

Jackie, in response to your question,we were able to see Powerscourt and have lunch during the mid-morning to early afternoon, and then spent another several hours at Glendalough, before going to Avoca for the night.

Rickmay,in Avoca we stayed at Koliba Country Residence, www.koliba.com, just up the hill from town. Rose and Brendan Gilroy are wonderful hosts and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay there(see part one of the trip report). This was a great introduction to Irish hospitality and the B&B experience.

Finally, no we didn't go to Fitzgerald's, as Brendan told us that only the exterior was used in the BallyK series, and the interior of the bar was a set! So, instead, we went over to the Woodenbridge Hotel where we had a great Irish music experience and a wonderful evening (again, see part one).

Sue

edhodge

I so enjoyed your trip report. You seem like people who love living and probably are very easy to make happy (though it is hard to have a bad time in Ireland ). Thank you for sharing and I am tucking it away for our next trip which will definitely include Donegal.

hopingtotravel

What a lovely report! It took me right back to the 'Tidy Town' winner, Kenmare, where I bought one of those Irish white nightgowns.

We too, loved Magee's in Donegal. We spent a lot there and would have loved to have bought more. My husband now has 2 Irish tweed jackets like you could not find anywhere here.

Sorry about your tour bus incidents. People tried to warn us off from even driving because they claimed the tour buses try to run you off the road. (I thought that was a bit excessive!) We did a similar itinerary, only in 14 days so a bit more rushed. We were there in Sept 01 during the hoof and mouth scare and only saw 2 tour buses. The hoof and mouth thing didn't curtail our travels at all.