Elisabeth54

We are told that the neighborhood of Triana, across the river in Seville, is more authentic than the more touristy center of the city near the cathedral. Anyone who has been or stayed there please supply us with info on hotels, restaurants and flamenco bars.

Egbert

Flamenco: casa anselma, and el perejil

Elisabeth54

Thanks to Youtube I got a nice impression! Muchos gracias. Any advice with regard to times? I understand that the more tourist oriented flamenco bars open earlier. In this case should we aim for e.g. 11 pm or preferably later in the evening? Do both places also serve dinner or would you recommend we go to another restaurant for a meal first?

kimhe

Triana is wonderful. When it comes to flamenco bars, I would also recommend El Rejoneo on riverfront Calle Betis (C/ Betis, 33). Often Samara Amador, the flamenco singer daughter of living legend dancer Manuela Carrasco, gets into action here. No need to come before midninght. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPZT3ADgWsw

If you are really serious about flamenco, go late at night to the bar El Mantoncillo in Alfarería, 104, also in Triana. Here anything can happen.

And if you want to see first class flamenco performers, go to Casa de la Memória in the Santa Cruz district. Popular with tourists, but it's definitely the real deal. Pastora Galván have danced here once a week for a long time. She made her definitive breakthrough as one of the absolute finest bailaoras of our time during the last Bienal de flamenco in Sevilla (the world's largest and most prestigious flamenco festival) some months ago. Also many other great talents, not only dancers but also singers and guitarists. The program is updated here:
http://www.casadelamemoria.es/eventos.htm

Galván usually does more traditional things in Casa de la Memória. But here she is in housedress and knee-socks, dancing a modernistic tribute to how the older women dance in the Andalusian patios. From Teatro Lope de Vega on the 28th of October during the last Bienal:
http://www.flamencotv.es/es/componen...e-pastora.html

The finest flamenco artists in the world perform in the city on a regular basis. Great theaters in Sevilla. Updates on concerts here, and there are big things happening in the months ahead: http://www.deflamenco.com/agenda/events.jsp?barrio=5

In the warm months, a drink and some tapas along the riverside in one of the many bars in Calle Betis is a good option. http://www.sevilla5.com/activities/goingout/betis.html

Lots of great restaurants and tapas bars in Triana. For example innovative Puratasca: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...ory/puratasca/
Or traditional Casa Cuesta: http://www.casacuesta.net/index2.htm

Here are more very well informed suggestions about places to eat in Triana:
http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...urants/triana/
http://www.exploreseville.com/tapas-bars.htm#triana

But my favourites in town would be on the other side of the river, in the San Lorenzo district north of the more touristy Santa Cruz area.
Eslava: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/category/eslava/
Bodegas dos de Mayo: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...omment-page-1/

I also love El Cairo in Calle Reyes Católicos, 13, just across the Triana bridge (Puente Isabel/Puente de Triana). Excellent paella tapas at lunchtime (at the bar), and great local atmosphere: http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalusia.html

Elisabeth54

Kimhe you are amazing! Thank you so much for this avalanche of information. As it happens we plan to travel during the first week of March. I know, you'll ask why not wait another month? The thing is that we will be celebrating a special birthday and wanted to go somewhere in Europe with a reasonable chance of some sunshine and good food. We have booked a hotel called Bequer which is located at the Calle Reyes Católicos. It doesn't look authentic or spectacular in any way but we were told that it provides good service, spacious rooms, beds that are made for taller Northern Europeans plus a comfortable roof terrace in case we'd like to catch some sunshine. However, since you seem to be such an expert on Seville any recommendations are most welcome.

Elisabeth54

Kimhe, your Fodor name already rang a bell. I realize now that you have already answered my question from an earlier forum, at least with regard to the location of the hotel Bequer. Thanks again. Should anyone out there happen to have more first hand info on the hotel itself please do share it.

annhig

Kimhe - if you're ever organising a tapas tour of Sevilla, just let me know!

kimhe

Elisabeth,

If you go to Casa Anselma, be sure to stay to the Salve Rociera. Sung in praise of the Virgen del Rocío/Virgin of the dew (one of Mary's many apparances...) and the cause of one of the two greatest pilgrimages in Spain. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kvXe3t2TNlc

In the first week of March there are fantastic flamenco performances in fairly close by Jerez de la Frontera. Miguel Poveda is perhaps the greatest flamenco singer alive (for sure the most popular), and he's giving a concert on the 5th of March. He is to die for! The next day Rosario Toledo and Joaquin Grilo are dancing. She is great fun and a fantastic dancer and Grilo made my last Bienal in Sevilla on his own. On the 4th, Isabel Bayón (voted best dancer at the last Bienal) and song legend Carmen Linares give their performances.

Miguel Poveda and his flamenco history in Historias de viva voz (what he will do in Jerez): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGsE9...eature=channel

Joaquin Grilo: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOjtXiPl8Rk

Rosario Toledo (from the 20th anniversary of our flamenco club in the Oslo opera): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TnE_UQ2qGY

annhig,
If our schedules fit, I would be more than happy to join you in a Sevilla tapas feast!