Lake Garda, the Dolomites and Venice - What a Great Trip!
Oct 15th, 2009, 04:38 PM
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Lake Garda, the Dolomites and Venice - What a Great Trip!
I'm not much for writing long trip reports, so bear with me!
We left JFK on Sept. 14th and landed in Venice (Marco Polo) the next day. We picked up a car which we rented from 'rhinocarhire". They "gave" it to "Budget" and that's where we signed all the papers (in Italian). Who knows what we agreed to? The car was a small one which we heard was bet when driving in the mountains. We stuffed our luggage in the trunk. (the agent at the car rental told us only one bag would fit it. He obviously didn't know our stuffing technique!)
Headed out to the autobahn and on our way to Lake Garda. Specifically, Sirmione which is a little spit that sticks out into this, the largest lake in Italy. Our Hotel, The Hotel Catullo, was inside the castle walls and you must drive over the moat and through the entrance to get to it. Really. My husband was convinced that no cars were supposed to go there as the road was very very narrow and there were lots and lots of people. But, drive we did! Very slowly. Gazed at the gelato shops as we drove and visited them later.
We dropped off our luggage and then a young gentleman from the hotel got on his bike and directed my husband to follow him in our car. The drive was up a hill (about 5-10 minutes walk) where there was their car park. Then we walked back down to the hotel. Wonderful hotel with a very large room and bath with double sinks and shower with various sprays. Hard as rocks mattress and flat pillow, though. This is something we encountered in our other hotels this trip, so I guess it's par for the course.
Sirmione was lovely and the lake is gorgeous. We had a day of downpour, but we hitched up our pants and took a ferry to Garda, another lake town and wandered their medieval streets. By the time we got back to Sirmione the rain had stopped and we went for a walk to the Roman ruins - "Grotto" - which was very interesting. Adorable kittens greeted us. I was in heaven.
On Sept. 17th it was off to the Dolomites. We passed through Bolzano and had lunch in this small, pretty city. Took a cable car up to Oberbozen. Clean, new station and cars so you could really see out the cable car windows - no scratches yet! We got our first glimpse of the Dolomites as the cable car ascended. Quite a beautiful ride as there are green rolling vineyards below and then - whap - Dolomite peaks.
Back in car and finally got to our hotel in Ortisei - Hotel DIgon. We opted for the 1/2 board and this was a great deal. Wonderful breakfast with a 4-5 course dinner. The owners couldn't have been more helpful and the son, Daniel was always happy! He was the one we dealt with as he spoke English and his parents didn't. You could tell this family really takes pride in their establishment.
Not many Americans in these parts. In Sirmione we did not hear anyone with an American English accent and in the Dolomites we met one couple from the States. Guess this area hasn't really been discovered by Americans yet.
We took various cable cars - to Alpe di Suisi, the Dantercipies and the "telephone booth" cars which held only the two of us standing up. This car doesn't slow down when it's time to get in, so I was pushed into it by some large man! Then my husband came flying in after me. Couldn't stop laughing. Should have known better when the man who sold us our tickets said "Hallelujah" as we took our tickets from him. (Also there was a chapel alongside the booth. Hmm... trying to tell us something?)
When we arrived at the top the clouds were rolling in and it made it very spooky. Only one other couple at the top and there was ICE! It was like being on the moon. An atmosphere like none other. We have been in many many cable cars, up to many many mountain tops, but this was unique. Loved it.
After 4 days we went back to Venice and stayed there for 6 days. When we got back to the airport we dropped off the car and went to our hotel - Hotel Al Piave in the Castello sestiere. We met 2 friends there who had arrived the day before.
The next day we went to Murano - yes, bought a glass something or other, and watched the furnace workers. Then to Burano, which has a lot of tourist shops (what else is new?), but is so charming and colorful, who cares? Ate a delicious lunch beside a canal. Could it get any better? Saw some women making lace in two rather expensive stores. These woman were in their 70's so wonder if this craft is being handed own to a younger generation or not.
Back to our Hotel and out to dinner at some restaurant near us. Frankly, did not pay attention to restaurant names so I can't be of help to anyone in this regard. Some were OK, some were better than OK. Some were eh.
Visited many churches but only paid to see one - Frari, which was worth the meager 3 euros. Quite astonishing - paintings, sculpture etc. Took a tour of the Opera House, went to the Guggenheim and Ca Rezzonico. went to the Doge's Palace at 4:00 - and walked right in. No lines. Took a tour of The Ghetto. The tour guide had a very, very heavy Italian accent and no energy. This wasn't the best tour I've ever taken. He said some interesting things but shouldn't be a guide. Also took in a lecture about Galileo that we happened upon (in English). Dined at a restaurant on the lagoon opposite Guidecca - beautiful, and no crowds.
Overall impressions:
1 - The Dolomites are magnificent. Go! Lake Garda - want to spend a week there and really discover it.
2 - Venice is, yes, very expensive. The crowds are unbelievable but if you get way from St. Mark's it's calm and lovely.
3 - Best gelato we had was in Sirmione. Nothing could compare with it in Venice expect for one very non-descript gelato stand on Lio in Castello which had a sign that said "Gelato" and "Intense" and "Creamy".
4 - Confusing tipping - we just left no extra tip. Sometimes the restaurant would add it on, sometimes not, sometimes it would tell you on the menu whether the tip, etc. was included, sometimes not even if it was.
5 - Loved that the canals in Venice are used for all sorts of boats - this is the way people live and get their supplies. It must not be a very easy way to live, though.
6 - Venetians love their dogs. Rarely saw one that was on a leash. They just ran all over the place.
7 - The only area that we saw a real police - carabinieri - presence was in the Ghetto. They had a small wooden station, more like a shed, in the middle of the campo and about 8 of them were hanging out there. It was between Rosh Hashonah and Yom Kippur so perhaps there is extra police presence at this time? Felt strange.
I'm sure I'll think of more impressions - but for now that's it.
Oh yes - Want to thank the "go" family for all their information on the Dolomites and Stu Dudley (who is off on his own vacation tomorrow), Steve James and Cowboy 1986. You all helped so much.
Pictures:
kenavpix.shutterfly.com/26
We left JFK on Sept. 14th and landed in Venice (Marco Polo) the next day. We picked up a car which we rented from 'rhinocarhire". They "gave" it to "Budget" and that's where we signed all the papers (in Italian). Who knows what we agreed to? The car was a small one which we heard was bet when driving in the mountains. We stuffed our luggage in the trunk. (the agent at the car rental told us only one bag would fit it. He obviously didn't know our stuffing technique!)
Headed out to the autobahn and on our way to Lake Garda. Specifically, Sirmione which is a little spit that sticks out into this, the largest lake in Italy. Our Hotel, The Hotel Catullo, was inside the castle walls and you must drive over the moat and through the entrance to get to it. Really. My husband was convinced that no cars were supposed to go there as the road was very very narrow and there were lots and lots of people. But, drive we did! Very slowly. Gazed at the gelato shops as we drove and visited them later.
We dropped off our luggage and then a young gentleman from the hotel got on his bike and directed my husband to follow him in our car. The drive was up a hill (about 5-10 minutes walk) where there was their car park. Then we walked back down to the hotel. Wonderful hotel with a very large room and bath with double sinks and shower with various sprays. Hard as rocks mattress and flat pillow, though. This is something we encountered in our other hotels this trip, so I guess it's par for the course.
Sirmione was lovely and the lake is gorgeous. We had a day of downpour, but we hitched up our pants and took a ferry to Garda, another lake town and wandered their medieval streets. By the time we got back to Sirmione the rain had stopped and we went for a walk to the Roman ruins - "Grotto" - which was very interesting. Adorable kittens greeted us. I was in heaven.
On Sept. 17th it was off to the Dolomites. We passed through Bolzano and had lunch in this small, pretty city. Took a cable car up to Oberbozen. Clean, new station and cars so you could really see out the cable car windows - no scratches yet! We got our first glimpse of the Dolomites as the cable car ascended. Quite a beautiful ride as there are green rolling vineyards below and then - whap - Dolomite peaks.
Back in car and finally got to our hotel in Ortisei - Hotel DIgon. We opted for the 1/2 board and this was a great deal. Wonderful breakfast with a 4-5 course dinner. The owners couldn't have been more helpful and the son, Daniel was always happy! He was the one we dealt with as he spoke English and his parents didn't. You could tell this family really takes pride in their establishment.
Not many Americans in these parts. In Sirmione we did not hear anyone with an American English accent and in the Dolomites we met one couple from the States. Guess this area hasn't really been discovered by Americans yet.
We took various cable cars - to Alpe di Suisi, the Dantercipies and the "telephone booth" cars which held only the two of us standing up. This car doesn't slow down when it's time to get in, so I was pushed into it by some large man! Then my husband came flying in after me. Couldn't stop laughing. Should have known better when the man who sold us our tickets said "Hallelujah" as we took our tickets from him. (Also there was a chapel alongside the booth. Hmm... trying to tell us something?)
When we arrived at the top the clouds were rolling in and it made it very spooky. Only one other couple at the top and there was ICE! It was like being on the moon. An atmosphere like none other. We have been in many many cable cars, up to many many mountain tops, but this was unique. Loved it.
After 4 days we went back to Venice and stayed there for 6 days. When we got back to the airport we dropped off the car and went to our hotel - Hotel Al Piave in the Castello sestiere. We met 2 friends there who had arrived the day before.
The next day we went to Murano - yes, bought a glass something or other, and watched the furnace workers. Then to Burano, which has a lot of tourist shops (what else is new?), but is so charming and colorful, who cares? Ate a delicious lunch beside a canal. Could it get any better? Saw some women making lace in two rather expensive stores. These woman were in their 70's so wonder if this craft is being handed own to a younger generation or not.
Back to our Hotel and out to dinner at some restaurant near us. Frankly, did not pay attention to restaurant names so I can't be of help to anyone in this regard. Some were OK, some were better than OK. Some were eh.
Visited many churches but only paid to see one - Frari, which was worth the meager 3 euros. Quite astonishing - paintings, sculpture etc. Took a tour of the Opera House, went to the Guggenheim and Ca Rezzonico. went to the Doge's Palace at 4:00 - and walked right in. No lines. Took a tour of The Ghetto. The tour guide had a very, very heavy Italian accent and no energy. This wasn't the best tour I've ever taken. He said some interesting things but shouldn't be a guide. Also took in a lecture about Galileo that we happened upon (in English). Dined at a restaurant on the lagoon opposite Guidecca - beautiful, and no crowds.
Overall impressions:
1 - The Dolomites are magnificent. Go! Lake Garda - want to spend a week there and really discover it.
2 - Venice is, yes, very expensive. The crowds are unbelievable but if you get way from St. Mark's it's calm and lovely.
3 - Best gelato we had was in Sirmione. Nothing could compare with it in Venice expect for one very non-descript gelato stand on Lio in Castello which had a sign that said "Gelato" and "Intense" and "Creamy".
4 - Confusing tipping - we just left no extra tip. Sometimes the restaurant would add it on, sometimes not, sometimes it would tell you on the menu whether the tip, etc. was included, sometimes not even if it was.
5 - Loved that the canals in Venice are used for all sorts of boats - this is the way people live and get their supplies. It must not be a very easy way to live, though.
6 - Venetians love their dogs. Rarely saw one that was on a leash. They just ran all over the place.
7 - The only area that we saw a real police - carabinieri - presence was in the Ghetto. They had a small wooden station, more like a shed, in the middle of the campo and about 8 of them were hanging out there. It was between Rosh Hashonah and Yom Kippur so perhaps there is extra police presence at this time? Felt strange.
I'm sure I'll think of more impressions - but for now that's it.
Oh yes - Want to thank the "go" family for all their information on the Dolomites and Stu Dudley (who is off on his own vacation tomorrow), Steve James and Cowboy 1986. You all helped so much.
Pictures:
kenavpix.shutterfly.com/26
Oct 15th, 2009, 06:02 PM
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Am glad that you liked the gelato place. Sinful, isn't it?Sirmione is defintely not on the "American Circuit". You don't mention that getting into the old town by car is strictly a one-way affair. At certain times, cars are inbound, at others outbound over the moat. And you must have (or should have) a hotel reservation to be permitted to enter.
Taking the boat from Sirmione to any of the shore towns is real fun. If you have to choose, the towns along the Gardesana Occidentale (west bank) are more intersting than those on the opposite shore (Gardesana Orientale).
Taking the boat from Sirmione to any of the shore towns is real fun. If you have to choose, the towns along the Gardesana Occidentale (west bank) are more intersting than those on the opposite shore (Gardesana Orientale).
Oct 15th, 2009, 06:36 PM
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Yes - You need a hotel reservation to go by car through the castle (old town). We didn't have the time to get to the towns on the west side of the lake. They look stunning. (Bought a book on Lake Garda). Next time??
Also forgot to send a thank you to Bobthenavigator for advice on the Dolomites.
Here are my Venice pix:
kenavpix.shutterfly.com/62
Also forgot to send a thank you to Bobthenavigator for advice on the Dolomites.
Here are my Venice pix:
kenavpix.shutterfly.com/62
Oct 15th, 2009, 07:25 PM
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Enjoyed your shots.
I don't believe the cabinieri's presence had anything to do with the holidays. Was also surprised about the dogs-I don't remember any unattended pooches.
It IS so hard to believe no cars!
Glad you had a good trip and thanks for the report!
I don't believe the cabinieri's presence had anything to do with the holidays. Was also surprised about the dogs-I don't remember any unattended pooches.
It IS so hard to believe no cars!
Glad you had a good trip and thanks for the report!
Oct 15th, 2009, 08:20 PM
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...<i>don't believe the <i>carabinieri's</i> presence had anything to do with the holidays</i>
Kenav and TDudette...all major Jewish sites in Italy and most countries in Western and central Europe have had a decided and welcome police presence for the better part of the last few decades....lately some of the more eastern countries have followed suit, at least after the first <i>intifada</i> was called for. I've had a few illuminating conversations (in local language, finger-pointing or pidgin English, as the case may be) with many of the on-duty police. They were most cooperative and friendly in every case. I was in a state of disbelief most of that time, as not once did any of them point for me to leave the premises, or wave me off. Several posters have read my World Wide List of Sinagogas Visited(100+)and I must say the same mild scenario held true most everywere... but the hardest times I've encountered were in Athens (1995) and in Moscow (1984).
I'm afraid this is the world we live in.
Stu Tower [email protected]
Kenav and TDudette...all major Jewish sites in Italy and most countries in Western and central Europe have had a decided and welcome police presence for the better part of the last few decades....lately some of the more eastern countries have followed suit, at least after the first <i>intifada</i> was called for. I've had a few illuminating conversations (in local language, finger-pointing or pidgin English, as the case may be) with many of the on-duty police. They were most cooperative and friendly in every case. I was in a state of disbelief most of that time, as not once did any of them point for me to leave the premises, or wave me off. Several posters have read my World Wide List of Sinagogas Visited(100+)and I must say the same mild scenario held true most everywere... but the hardest times I've encountered were in Athens (1995) and in Moscow (1984).
I'm afraid this is the world we live in.
Stu Tower [email protected]
Oct 15th, 2009, 08:27 PM
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Kenav...Thank you. Concise, well-worded and welcome report. On Sunday, we're heading back to Venice for the first visit since 1993 (also Burgundy, Berner Oberland, Florence and Piemonte). Your tips were well received.You're the second poster to mention the gelato ("intense" and creamy") on Lio in Castello (dbbooks just send the recommendation..and
you can bet well be there! On trips to any part of Italy, I tell Roz that I will limit myself to one gelato a day...I lie!
Stu
you can bet well be there! On trips to any part of Italy, I tell Roz that I will limit myself to one gelato a day...I lie!
Stu
Oct 16th, 2009, 03:00 AM
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Great report, and thanks for sharing. Looks like the weather (mostly) cooperated for you, after all--I was wondering. That Passo Sella-Forcella lift is a real trip, isn't it? Glad you had the chance to do that.
Oct 16th, 2009, 05:52 AM
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Thanks ms_go for the name of that lift. When we just happened to come upon it while driving I remembered your pictures and report and said "Stop here. This we've got to do." And so we did. Fantastic.
Yes, the weather, except for that one day in Sirmione, was great. We couldn't have asked for better.
Forgot to mention that we spent one night in Cortina d'Ampezzo on our way back to Venice from Ortisei. Cortina is a big mountain town with fancy shops and beautiful vistas. We saw a number of women and men dressed like they were in Milan - designer jackets, spike heels (women,ha). Definitely there to be looked at and not going hiking. (Could hardly walk.)
Here are the web sites for the hotels we stayed in. Prices are per day except for Hotel Al Piave.
Hotel Catullo in Sirmione: www.hotelcatullo.it (140 Euro for huge room with large very modern bath, taxes and breakfast. Faced a small square but not noisy. Two resident cats and a dog hangout in the lobby.)
Hotel Digon in Ortisei: www.hoteldigon.com. (52 Euros per person for big new room with balcony, full breakfast and great 4-5 course dinner.)
Parc Hotel Victoria in Cortina d'Ampezzo: www.hotelvictoriacortina.com
(68 euros per person for room with balcony, taxes and breakfast). This was their "cheapest" room - un-refurbished. Looked like it was from the 70's. Good location.
Hotel Al Piave in Venice: www.hotelalpiave.com ( 843 Euros for 6 nights including taxes and breakfast)
Yes, the weather, except for that one day in Sirmione, was great. We couldn't have asked for better.
Forgot to mention that we spent one night in Cortina d'Ampezzo on our way back to Venice from Ortisei. Cortina is a big mountain town with fancy shops and beautiful vistas. We saw a number of women and men dressed like they were in Milan - designer jackets, spike heels (women,ha). Definitely there to be looked at and not going hiking. (Could hardly walk.)
Here are the web sites for the hotels we stayed in. Prices are per day except for Hotel Al Piave.
Hotel Catullo in Sirmione: www.hotelcatullo.it (140 Euro for huge room with large very modern bath, taxes and breakfast. Faced a small square but not noisy. Two resident cats and a dog hangout in the lobby.)
Hotel Digon in Ortisei: www.hoteldigon.com. (52 Euros per person for big new room with balcony, full breakfast and great 4-5 course dinner.)
Parc Hotel Victoria in Cortina d'Ampezzo: www.hotelvictoriacortina.com
(68 euros per person for room with balcony, taxes and breakfast). This was their "cheapest" room - un-refurbished. Looked like it was from the 70's. Good location.
Hotel Al Piave in Venice: www.hotelalpiave.com ( 843 Euros for 6 nights including taxes and breakfast)
Oct 16th, 2009, 07:18 AM
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Hi Kenav - Welcome back. Glad your trip went well - and that you enjoyed the Dolomites 
It always amazes me that I meet so few Americans there - they don't know what they're missing, do they? Your Ortisei hotel looks lovely - and good value!
Steve
It always amazes me that I meet so few Americans there - they don't know what they're missing, do they? Your Ortisei hotel looks lovely - and good value!Steve
Oct 16th, 2009, 02:35 PM
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Hi Steve_James - Yes, it does amaze that more Americans don't know about the Dolomites in Italy. But let's keep it a secret so it doesn't get overrun (except from Fodorites, of course).
Do you live in that area or just a fan who has been there many times?
Do you live in that area or just a fan who has been there many times?
Oct 18th, 2009, 09:15 AM
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A couple of other Impressions ---
***We amazingly (at least to us) had no good pizza. Flavorless whether in the Dolomites or in Venice. Maybe we're used to Southern Italian pizza here in NY.
***Didn't get lost as much as we thought we would in Venice.
***Can't decide whether the Dolomites or the Bernese Oberland is my favorite alpine area now. (What a terrible decision to make!)
***Loved the "spritzer". My husband hated it.
Would like to go to the mountains in the winter, but don't know how to ski (nor want to learn).
Anyone out there have suggestions of other things to do in the winter in the mountains for us non-skiers aside from drinking lost of grog?
***We amazingly (at least to us) had no good pizza. Flavorless whether in the Dolomites or in Venice. Maybe we're used to Southern Italian pizza here in NY.
***Didn't get lost as much as we thought we would in Venice.
***Can't decide whether the Dolomites or the Bernese Oberland is my favorite alpine area now. (What a terrible decision to make!)
***Loved the "spritzer". My husband hated it.
Would like to go to the mountains in the winter, but don't know how to ski (nor want to learn).
Anyone out there have suggestions of other things to do in the winter in the mountains for us non-skiers aside from drinking lost of grog?
Oct 19th, 2009, 01:51 AM
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Kenav - I don't ski either - but I love the Dolomites in the ski season. I often visit Val Gardena for 10/12 days in December, pre-Xmas. It's even more beautiful in the snow, believe me!
I love getting the cable-cars/chairlifts up to one of the refuges for lunch (- or an
apfelstrudel-&-vin brule), watching the skiers ... and just enjoying the pre-Xmas atmosphere.
If I want a change of scenery, I catch a bus to Bolzano, Bressanone, Castelrotto or one of the other towns and visit the Christmas markets. There are also coach excursions to places further afield, e.g. Munich (- Xmas mkt).
I always enjoy my winter visits there, but it depends what you want ...
Steve
I love getting the cable-cars/chairlifts up to one of the refuges for lunch (- or an
apfelstrudel-&-vin brule), watching the skiers ... and just enjoying the pre-Xmas atmosphere.
If I want a change of scenery, I catch a bus to Bolzano, Bressanone, Castelrotto or one of the other towns and visit the Christmas markets. There are also coach excursions to places further afield, e.g. Munich (- Xmas mkt).
I always enjoy my winter visits there, but it depends what you want ...
Steve
Oct 19th, 2009, 04:28 AM
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Aren't many of the cable cars closed after about the end of Sept? Obviously there must be many still open as skiing is a big deal there. But I just wondered since when we were there in Sept. I noticed that some of the CCs would be closing soon.
How are the roads in the snow? Sounds like you don't rent a car since you mentioned taking the bus. Is that how you get around the Val Gardena?
Where do you fly into? (Many questions, I know.)
How are the roads in the snow? Sounds like you don't rent a car since you mentioned taking the bus. Is that how you get around the Val Gardena?
Where do you fly into? (Many questions, I know.)
Oct 20th, 2009, 12:35 AM
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Kenav - The lifts re-open for the start of the ski season - usually the first weekend in December (- Dec 8th is a public holiday, so most are open by then).
There are then World Championship ski races in Val Gardena (- Santa Cristina) about 17 Dec - so it gets busy from then and through Xmas/New Year, of course.
Yes - I'm happy using the buses between the resorts. I never rent a car at that time of year as the passes can be icy and are sometimes closed.
I fly into Innsbruck, Bergamo or Venice.
Hope this helps ...
Steve
There are then World Championship ski races in Val Gardena (- Santa Cristina) about 17 Dec - so it gets busy from then and through Xmas/New Year, of course.
Yes - I'm happy using the buses between the resorts. I never rent a car at that time of year as the passes can be icy and are sometimes closed.
I fly into Innsbruck, Bergamo or Venice.
Hope this helps ...
Steve
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