Jamikins and Bikerscott go Francing, this time with the in-laws!
Sep 24th, 2008, 04:02 AM
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Jamikins and Bikerscott go Francing, this time with the in-laws!
We�d been planning this trip for over a year with Bikerscott�s parents. Bikerscott and I are in our early 30�s and his parents are in their mid/late 50�s. After our successful family trip to Italy last year we decided to do Paris and Burgundy this year, using the Eurostar (we live in London).
Of course, we hadn�t anticipated the Eurotunnel fire two days before our departure! So I spent the Friday 12 Sept frantically trying to find another way to get to Paris (thank you to all you Fodorites that helped me!). So here are Bikerscott�s trip notes and our pics.
13 Sept 2008 (London to Paris the Hard Way)
Today turned from being a short jaunt from London to Paris on the Eurostar into an epic journey, all due to a damn fire on a freight train in the north tunnel of the Eurotunnel that shut down the entire Eurostar network 2 days before our departure. Instead of the 8am tube ride to St Pancras for a 10am train ride direct to Paris, we got up at 4am for a 5:15 taxi ride to Charing Cross to catch a 6am train to Dover. From Dover we caught a taxi to the ferry and ferried to Calais, which took just under 2 hours (it seemed like longer with a group of east London ladies on their way for a wild weekend taking up residence at a table beside us), where we caught another taxi to the train station. A quick Ricard/wine/beer break we hopped onto the Calais to Lille train. Calais didn�t seem to have much character, Lille seemed to have even less � but we were in only the train stations.
After another train journey from Lille we finally made it to Paris at 5pm. We found the Metro after buying a book of tickets and tried to reassure my dad that we were on the right train. Tickets were easy to purchase at the self serve kiosks using our UK credit card�not sure if North American ones will work as they don�t have chips.
The Paris Metro can be a bit daunting but not compared to Rome and both mom and dad handled it like pros. After getting off the Metro at St. Michel it was a short walk to our hotel, Hotel St Jacques. http://www.hotel-saintjacques.com/ We love this hotel in the 5th and always stay here.
We checked in and quickly freshened up before walking next door for a quick beverage at Le Petit Perigourdine, and then on to Balzar's Brasserie (http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/) for our traditional first night in Paris meal. I went a little off script by forgoing my usual lamb and having steak tartare (raw ground beef). Jamikins and my dad went for the steak au poivre and mom for the roasted chicken. I think despite my parent�s initial reservations about the french food that they enjoyed.
After dinner, we decided that it would be a good night for a boat tour of the Seine, which I think my parents really enjoyed. The rain held off the whole time, which was nice. After the tour we walked back to the hotel and Jamikins and I stopped for a quick night cap before coming back in. All in all a long but good first day back in Paris!
More to come!
Of course, we hadn�t anticipated the Eurotunnel fire two days before our departure! So I spent the Friday 12 Sept frantically trying to find another way to get to Paris (thank you to all you Fodorites that helped me!). So here are Bikerscott�s trip notes and our pics.
13 Sept 2008 (London to Paris the Hard Way)
Today turned from being a short jaunt from London to Paris on the Eurostar into an epic journey, all due to a damn fire on a freight train in the north tunnel of the Eurotunnel that shut down the entire Eurostar network 2 days before our departure. Instead of the 8am tube ride to St Pancras for a 10am train ride direct to Paris, we got up at 4am for a 5:15 taxi ride to Charing Cross to catch a 6am train to Dover. From Dover we caught a taxi to the ferry and ferried to Calais, which took just under 2 hours (it seemed like longer with a group of east London ladies on their way for a wild weekend taking up residence at a table beside us), where we caught another taxi to the train station. A quick Ricard/wine/beer break we hopped onto the Calais to Lille train. Calais didn�t seem to have much character, Lille seemed to have even less � but we were in only the train stations.
After another train journey from Lille we finally made it to Paris at 5pm. We found the Metro after buying a book of tickets and tried to reassure my dad that we were on the right train. Tickets were easy to purchase at the self serve kiosks using our UK credit card�not sure if North American ones will work as they don�t have chips.
The Paris Metro can be a bit daunting but not compared to Rome and both mom and dad handled it like pros. After getting off the Metro at St. Michel it was a short walk to our hotel, Hotel St Jacques. http://www.hotel-saintjacques.com/ We love this hotel in the 5th and always stay here.
We checked in and quickly freshened up before walking next door for a quick beverage at Le Petit Perigourdine, and then on to Balzar's Brasserie (http://www.brasseriebalzar.com/) for our traditional first night in Paris meal. I went a little off script by forgoing my usual lamb and having steak tartare (raw ground beef). Jamikins and my dad went for the steak au poivre and mom for the roasted chicken. I think despite my parent�s initial reservations about the french food that they enjoyed.
After dinner, we decided that it would be a good night for a boat tour of the Seine, which I think my parents really enjoyed. The rain held off the whole time, which was nice. After the tour we walked back to the hotel and Jamikins and I stopped for a quick night cap before coming back in. All in all a long but good first day back in Paris!
More to come!
Sep 25th, 2008, 12:13 AM
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Maybe we will have to go back to Lille and give it a chance 
14 September 2008
After the epic day of travel, both Jamikins and I slept like the dead. We'd set our alarm for 8:30 which came far too early. This was unlike the last time we were here when it was stinking hot and both of us slept horribly the entire a time.
We met mom and dad in the lobby at 9:30 and set out for a day of walking. The first stop was La Petit Perigourdine for a quick breakfast. Croissants all around. Then over to Notre Dame where we did a quick tour inside while mass was being held - it was a bit odd to be in there while everyone was praying. I'm surprised they let visitors in. After that we set out to find the Hotel de Ville Metro station and trained to the Arc de Triomphe so that we could walk down the Champs Elysees. I think mom and dad were impressed with the size of the Arc, although as it was a Sunday there was hardly any traffic so L'Etoile was a shadow of its normal chaotic self.
Not much to be said for the Champs Elysees - I'm not a huge fan and I don’t really find it all that posh - more expensive and trashy than anything else. Like an Essex Girl in an evening dress.
We stopped for a few drinks and eventually lunch on the way. That side of town is far more expensive than it needs to be although it got better the farther from the tourist areas we got. As I suppose one should expect this. We headed through Place de la Concorde, through Tuilleries and by the impressive Louvre. Not being art museum people we gave the Louvre a pass and instead headed to a café for some refreshments.
After a bottle of wine just off Place St Michel we all headed back to the hotel for naps. Jamikins and I went across the street to L'Autre Bistro for another drink and to read our books while we waited to meet my parents for dinner.
14 September 2008
After the epic day of travel, both Jamikins and I slept like the dead. We'd set our alarm for 8:30 which came far too early. This was unlike the last time we were here when it was stinking hot and both of us slept horribly the entire a time.
We met mom and dad in the lobby at 9:30 and set out for a day of walking. The first stop was La Petit Perigourdine for a quick breakfast. Croissants all around. Then over to Notre Dame where we did a quick tour inside while mass was being held - it was a bit odd to be in there while everyone was praying. I'm surprised they let visitors in. After that we set out to find the Hotel de Ville Metro station and trained to the Arc de Triomphe so that we could walk down the Champs Elysees. I think mom and dad were impressed with the size of the Arc, although as it was a Sunday there was hardly any traffic so L'Etoile was a shadow of its normal chaotic self.
Not much to be said for the Champs Elysees - I'm not a huge fan and I don’t really find it all that posh - more expensive and trashy than anything else. Like an Essex Girl in an evening dress.
We stopped for a few drinks and eventually lunch on the way. That side of town is far more expensive than it needs to be although it got better the farther from the tourist areas we got. As I suppose one should expect this. We headed through Place de la Concorde, through Tuilleries and by the impressive Louvre. Not being art museum people we gave the Louvre a pass and instead headed to a café for some refreshments.
After a bottle of wine just off Place St Michel we all headed back to the hotel for naps. Jamikins and I went across the street to L'Autre Bistro for another drink and to read our books while we waited to meet my parents for dinner.
Sep 25th, 2008, 04:57 AM
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15 September 2008
Dinner last night was at the posher than expected 'Bamboche' (http://www.lebamboche.com/). It took a bit of finding after a relatively long Metro ride. It’s ‘hidden’ down a quiet street in the 7th behind the Eiffel Tower.
It turned out that the set menu was only available on weekdays so the meal ended up being more expensive than we planned on. Despite the price, the meal was excellent and was brilliantly plated. The duck three ways was the highlight, although the fish dishes Jamikins and my dad had were great as well. I think we would go back.
After dinner we walked to Champs de Mars to take some photos of the Eiffel Tower at night - beautiful although disturbingly blue - in honour of France holding the EU presidency. After photos it was back home to Hotel St Jacques for bed - without our traditional night cap as we were too tired.
Today we bought tickets for the open top bus tour after breakfast. My dad has bad knees so we were trying to limit walking. We started out on the Montparnasse/St Germaine route before switching to the Grande Tour line to hit all the main sites.
For lunch we managed to find what seemed to be a locals and us place down a side street near Opera. I also bought some Fragonard cologne at the Fragonard store, not the Santal I was going to - it seems my tastes have changed since I was last here. Dad bought us an ice cream at the top of Le Printemps and we took some fabulous pictures of the view over the rooftops, and then back on the bus for a ride back to the Latin Quarter.
We stopped for a bottle of wine at L'Autre bistro after which everyone went back to the hotel for a much needed nap.
Dinner was again a bit of a mission to find, but was definitely worth it. The restaurant was called Jules (http://www.lejules.com/) and again was down a quiet side street, this time in the 2nd. Unlike last night, the set menu was available and was excellent - foie gras, confit and dessert for only 25 euros! This one is a definite repeat. Services was amazing as well!
Jamikins and I stopped a few times on the way home for some night photos and then back the hotel without our nightcap. My stomach was not happy with all that rich food!
Dinner last night was at the posher than expected 'Bamboche' (http://www.lebamboche.com/). It took a bit of finding after a relatively long Metro ride. It’s ‘hidden’ down a quiet street in the 7th behind the Eiffel Tower.
It turned out that the set menu was only available on weekdays so the meal ended up being more expensive than we planned on. Despite the price, the meal was excellent and was brilliantly plated. The duck three ways was the highlight, although the fish dishes Jamikins and my dad had were great as well. I think we would go back.
After dinner we walked to Champs de Mars to take some photos of the Eiffel Tower at night - beautiful although disturbingly blue - in honour of France holding the EU presidency. After photos it was back home to Hotel St Jacques for bed - without our traditional night cap as we were too tired.
Today we bought tickets for the open top bus tour after breakfast. My dad has bad knees so we were trying to limit walking. We started out on the Montparnasse/St Germaine route before switching to the Grande Tour line to hit all the main sites.
For lunch we managed to find what seemed to be a locals and us place down a side street near Opera. I also bought some Fragonard cologne at the Fragonard store, not the Santal I was going to - it seems my tastes have changed since I was last here. Dad bought us an ice cream at the top of Le Printemps and we took some fabulous pictures of the view over the rooftops, and then back on the bus for a ride back to the Latin Quarter.
We stopped for a bottle of wine at L'Autre bistro after which everyone went back to the hotel for a much needed nap.
Dinner was again a bit of a mission to find, but was definitely worth it. The restaurant was called Jules (http://www.lejules.com/) and again was down a quiet side street, this time in the 2nd. Unlike last night, the set menu was available and was excellent - foie gras, confit and dessert for only 25 euros! This one is a definite repeat. Services was amazing as well!
Jamikins and I stopped a few times on the way home for some night photos and then back the hotel without our nightcap. My stomach was not happy with all that rich food!
Sep 26th, 2008, 04:23 AM
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16 September 2008
Stomach issues seem to be resolved today, although I am still a bit scared to sneeze. With all the walking we've been doing, Jamikins and I have been sleeping really well, which is a change for us in Paris.
First thing this morning, after the cheapest breakfast so far at 4.30 euros (what a deal) we took a look around the market at the bottom of Rue Monge (it was finally open!). I just love the open markets in France! Next was a quick Metro ride over to the Eiffel Tower for dad and me to go up to the top. Mom and Jamikins went for a coffee at the Trocadero where they were hassled by a platoon of Jingle/Jangle men trying to tell sell them cheap postcards and Eiffel Tower statues.
The queues at the tower were long - one at the bottom just to get up and then another on the 2nd level to get up to the top. Dad had fun yelling at some Spanish queue jumpers - (go dad go!). All else being equal, the Eiffel Tower is really tall. Once we finally got to the top we spent some time taking in the view and taking some photos before heading down to meet Jamikins and mom.
We all got back on the open top bus and headed towards Montmartre, getting as far as Place de la Concorde before we hit mayhem! A very small car managed to get wedged between our bus and another bus beside us and it wasn’t pretty. Although I suspect not uncommon around the area. The traffic was unreal and we got some pretty funny pics of the chaos.
We finally made it to the base of the funicular to Montmartre where we ditched dad - he was the last of our group to try to get on and got stuck at the barrier. Then the funicular then broke and dad had to wait for a good 15 mins to get up to meet us. He was not happy.
We found an odd little restaurant at the top for lunch where I had an excellent toasted chicken. Everyone else's meal was mediocre. After lunch we walked around through the market and then back down the hill and took the Metro back to St Michel and then walked up to the Hotel.
We all wandered to L'Autre Bistro for a bottle of wine (or two) and dad went back to the hotel for his nap. And then the three of us stayed to watch the high drama of a VERY minor street accident which involved a scratch to a scooter, a slightly dinged car, a dozen wildly gesticulating frenchmen, and a platoon of mustachioed gendarmes. Almost an hour and a half later they were still there....
Tomorrow we head to Beaune and Burgundy for a further 4 nights…
And our pics from Paris:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gir...7607493694005/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/radio-friendly/
Stomach issues seem to be resolved today, although I am still a bit scared to sneeze. With all the walking we've been doing, Jamikins and I have been sleeping really well, which is a change for us in Paris.
First thing this morning, after the cheapest breakfast so far at 4.30 euros (what a deal) we took a look around the market at the bottom of Rue Monge (it was finally open!). I just love the open markets in France! Next was a quick Metro ride over to the Eiffel Tower for dad and me to go up to the top. Mom and Jamikins went for a coffee at the Trocadero where they were hassled by a platoon of Jingle/Jangle men trying to tell sell them cheap postcards and Eiffel Tower statues.
The queues at the tower were long - one at the bottom just to get up and then another on the 2nd level to get up to the top. Dad had fun yelling at some Spanish queue jumpers - (go dad go!). All else being equal, the Eiffel Tower is really tall. Once we finally got to the top we spent some time taking in the view and taking some photos before heading down to meet Jamikins and mom.
We all got back on the open top bus and headed towards Montmartre, getting as far as Place de la Concorde before we hit mayhem! A very small car managed to get wedged between our bus and another bus beside us and it wasn’t pretty. Although I suspect not uncommon around the area. The traffic was unreal and we got some pretty funny pics of the chaos.
We finally made it to the base of the funicular to Montmartre where we ditched dad - he was the last of our group to try to get on and got stuck at the barrier. Then the funicular then broke and dad had to wait for a good 15 mins to get up to meet us. He was not happy.
We found an odd little restaurant at the top for lunch where I had an excellent toasted chicken. Everyone else's meal was mediocre. After lunch we walked around through the market and then back down the hill and took the Metro back to St Michel and then walked up to the Hotel.
We all wandered to L'Autre Bistro for a bottle of wine (or two) and dad went back to the hotel for his nap. And then the three of us stayed to watch the high drama of a VERY minor street accident which involved a scratch to a scooter, a slightly dinged car, a dozen wildly gesticulating frenchmen, and a platoon of mustachioed gendarmes. Almost an hour and a half later they were still there....
Tomorrow we head to Beaune and Burgundy for a further 4 nights…
And our pics from Paris:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gir...7607493694005/
http://www.flickr.com/photos/radio-friendly/
Sep 26th, 2008, 11:49 AM
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Hi there,
Thanks for the compliments. The Eiffel Tower in blue s a bit more tricky to photograph, but it did work so we were happy!!
As for prices..hotel I believe was 125 euro a night. They also offer breaky for 9.50 euro which is pricey I think. You can go next door and have the same thing for 6.50 euro at La petite peridordine.
Dinners, let me think:
Balzar for 4 came to 150 euros - we had 4 main courses, and some good wime.
Bamboche is pretty upscale. They have a set menu that I think is around 40 euros during the week for I think 3 courses...but we were there on the weekend and I believe it came to close to 100 euros each couple for 1 main each and wine. The dishes were much more creative, smaller and more finicky than the other places we went.
Jules was a great deal. 25 euro each for 3 courses and the food was huge delicious portions. Great atmosphere, great service...will definitely be going back!!!
Sorza I think was again about 75 euros each per couple. again including a bottle of wine and apperitifs.
We are big time foodies so keep that in mind
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Thanks for the compliments. The Eiffel Tower in blue s a bit more tricky to photograph, but it did work so we were happy!!
As for prices..hotel I believe was 125 euro a night. They also offer breaky for 9.50 euro which is pricey I think. You can go next door and have the same thing for 6.50 euro at La petite peridordine.
Dinners, let me think:
Balzar for 4 came to 150 euros - we had 4 main courses, and some good wime.
Bamboche is pretty upscale. They have a set menu that I think is around 40 euros during the week for I think 3 courses...but we were there on the weekend and I believe it came to close to 100 euros each couple for 1 main each and wine. The dishes were much more creative, smaller and more finicky than the other places we went.
Jules was a great deal. 25 euro each for 3 courses and the food was huge delicious portions. Great atmosphere, great service...will definitely be going back!!!
Sorza I think was again about 75 euros each per couple. again including a bottle of wine and apperitifs.
We are big time foodies so keep that in mind
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Sep 26th, 2008, 01:09 PM
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<< Not much to be said for the Champs Elysees . . . Like an Essex Girl in an evening dress. >>
LOL
A question: what boat service did you use for your nighttime Seine tour?
Loving your trip report!
LOL
A question: what boat service did you use for your nighttime Seine tour?
Loving your trip report!
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