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Help fine-tuning plans: Venice, Bologna, Tuscany, Rome

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Help fine-tuning plans: Venice, Bologna, Tuscany, Rome

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Old Mar 10th, 2013, 12:43 PM
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Help fine-tuning plans: Venice, Bologna, Tuscany, Rome

I can't believe I'm finally leaving on my trip next month! Thanks to all of you, I feel comfortable with my big picture itinerary, and am now fine-tuning the day-by-day in each place. To recap: My husband and I are in our 30s traveling just the two of us, flying from the US arriving into Venice on Friday, April 26. 2 nights Venice, 4 nights Bologna, 3 nights Pienza, 5 nights Rome, departing on Friday, May 10. We love food and wine, are less interested in art museums though want to see the biggies, are thrilled to just people-watch in cafes, enjoy beautiful scenery and experience the joy of being in a different culture. We are exhausted parents of a 1.5 year old (taking this trip before contemplating adding another child!) with expectations of returning, so are leaving out many, many things in order to sleep in on some mornings and have time to laze around! I briefly went to Rome, Florence, and Cinque Terre in college - my memories are more of partying and sleeping on a CT beach than anything else - and my husband has never been, so for all intents and purposes, please consider this a first-timers' itinerary.

I will add to this post for each destination...let's start with Venice!

FRIDAY, APRIL 25
-Arrive 1:40pm into Marco Polo airport
-Pre-booked shared water taxi to Ai Tagliapetra B&B near San Zaccaria waterbus stop
-Fight jet leg, attempt to stay awake by walking around, perhaps meander to St. Mark's Square just to get bearings or "get lost" for the first time
-Early dinner somewhere close to hotel, early to bed

SATURDAY, APRIL 26
-Rick Steve's self-guided walking tour from St. Mark's Square to Frari Church, stopping at Rialto Market along the way
-Rick Steve's self-guided Grand Canal vaporetto tour
-Late afternoon (attempting to miss crowds), visit St. Mark's Basilica and Doge's Palace, perhaps go up Campanile
-Casual dinner, stopping for cicchetti wherever it looks fun
-If up for it, catch some evening music in St. Mark's Square with a cocktail

SUNDAY, APRIL 27
-If we missed anything on yesterday's list, do it now
-"Get lost" perhaps in Dorsoduro neighborhood where we could have lunch
-If we have time and/or feel like it, visit Guggenheim or Accademia
-Catch train to Bologna around 4 or 5pm

Venice is the place where I know we have too little time, but alas, we cannot add another night. So with the idea that we will return, I have left out many things such as a trip to the lagoon islands and the Correr Museum, plus we will skip one or both of Guggenheim and Accademia. Our priority for Venice is to recover from jet lag in a beautiful place, mostly walking around enjoying the wonder of a canaled city. Meals are intended to be more casual in Venice because we are doing a lot of nice restaurant meals in other locations.

What are your thoughts on my plans, keeping my goals and interests in mind? Do you think I should book a tour or timed entry for Doges Palace and St. Mark's Basilica? Am I doing too much or too little? Skipping anything I would regret? Any casual restaurants near my hotel that you could suggest for our first night? Other suggestions?

THANK YOU!!
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Old Mar 10th, 2013, 01:06 PM
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hi caze,

nice pace, glad to see that you aren't being too ambitious!

just a couple of thoughts - when you go to see the Frari, don't forget about the nearby Suola grande di San Rocco - it is well worth your time!

and rather than going up the Campanile in San Marco, why not get the boat across to the isola di san giorgio, and go up that one? it's cheaper, there are rarely any queues, and the view is jsut as good. [and you get a bit more time on a vaporetto which as you aren't going out to the lagoon, can't be a bad thing].

a third point [this is getting to be a bit like Monty Python] you want to get to the Rialto market as early as possible - so I would go there first. and do think about getting reservations for San Marco [which you don't have to use if you can get in at another time without too much queuing] the Doges' palace - the Secret Itineraries tour is a lot of fun!

have a great trip!
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Old Mar 10th, 2013, 01:19 PM
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A casual pizzeria not far from your hotel for the first night:

Pizzeria/Trattoria Al Vecio Canton
Castello 4738a, South end of Ruga Giuffa
http://www.alveciocanton.it/
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Old Mar 10th, 2013, 01:42 PM
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There is also a good restaurant across the road from your b&b that Lorenzo recommended to us...they have a lovely outside area out back!
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Old Mar 10th, 2013, 02:58 PM
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I only have to leave for a couple of hours for a trip to the grocery store, and already there is such great advice. Love the idea to go up the tower at Isola di San Giorgio. Thanks and keep it coming!
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Old Mar 11th, 2013, 07:20 AM
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Okay...on to Bologna!

SUNDAY, APRIL 28 (also noticed my dates were off above)
-Arrive Bologna, via train from Venice, around 6 or 7pm
-Check into I Portici Hotel (4 nights)
-Trying to decide on a nice restaurant that is open on Sunday (have been doing lots of research, particularly Chowhound)...thinking of Ristorante da Nello al Montegrappa: http://www.ristorantedanello.com

MONDAY, APRIL 29
-7AM Italian Days Food Tour, visiting cheese, vinegar, and parma factories, as well as late afternoon lunch at a winery, returning around 3:30PM
-Just relax and enjoy evening, perhaps getting drinks and snacks at the rooftop bar at Hotel Touring (no big dinner)

TUESDAY, APRIL 30
-Bluone cooking class, beginning with market tour at 10AM
-Free time between noon and 4pm - casual lunch, relax, perhaps do a little Bologna sightseeing
-4PM Cooking class ending in late dinner

WEDNESDAY, MAY 1
-The national holiday really threw a kink in my planning. We have managed to arrange everything before this date, leaving this day pretty open. We will either be exhausted after the start of our trip and just want to laze around, perhaps catching the holiday concert in Piazza Maggiore and generally enjoying the day as locals do. This is probably the day where do a little sightseeing in Bologna itself using something like this as a guide: http://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/pla...f%20our%20city

Or we may take a day trip to Parma and/or Modena, enjoying the smaller towns and good restaurants. Leaving this day for last minute planning unless you suggest otherwise.

-Hoping to have a fabulous meal at dinner, as most restaurants seem to be open. Considering Da Gianni, Giampi e Ciccio, or Trattoria dal Biassanot. Or if we are daytripping, we will probably have a blowout lunch in Parma, for example, with a lighter dinner.

THURSDAY, MAY 2
-Sleep in, enjoy breakfast, then rent a car by late morning (pre-booked through AutoEurope's Italian site for a screaming deal - thank goodness we drive stick!).

This portion of our trip contains the most tours, so there is less flexibility. My main concern is our May 1 holiday plans and if someone has suggestions for how to best spend that day. We are getting out of Bologna with our food factory tour, so we may not feel like we need to take daytrips (mostly because we are hoping not to feel rushed and exhausted). On the other hand, hard to imagine visiting Emilia-Reggiano without going to Parma and Modena if my whole point is to experience the food!

Would love your thoughts on that, and of course, any restaurant recommendations! And has anyone stayed at I Portici Hotel? We got rooms for 85E/night and it was recommended in NYT. Slightly less centrally located, but because we are not doing that much Bologna sightseeing, I thought it would be okay.

As always, thank you!
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Old Mar 11th, 2013, 02:42 PM
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caze - sorry I can't help you with Bologna - i haven't been there, though I'd love to.

so I'll be very interested to read your TR in due course.
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Old Mar 11th, 2013, 07:32 PM
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The least I can do after all of the help that you and everyone else have given me, is to write a trip report! I think it will be fun to relive the memories as well...
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Old Mar 12th, 2013, 08:20 AM
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On to Tuscany...

THURSDAY, MAY 2
-Stock up on wine, cheese, meats and other goodies for the next few days. Rent car in Bologna by late morning.
-Driving south, stop in Siena? What about San Gimignano? We don't have anything on our plate today other than getting to our Pienza lodgings, so what do you think we have time to do en route? Or should we just start exploring Southern Tuscany and skip towns that are further north?
-Check into B&B Il Rossellino in Pienza between 4pm and 7pm

FRIDAY, MAY 3
-11:30AM - Tour, tasting, and lunch scheduled at Poggio Antico winery in Montalcino
-As time allows before and after lunch, do parts of Stu Dudley's Southern Tuscany drive described here:
http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscan...ng_tuscany.htm
We may do part of that drive the day before and after as well.

SATURDAY, MAY 4
-Do more of the Southern Tuscany drive
-And/or consider hiking Pienza to Montelpulciano taking a picnic with us, using something like this:
http://www.casasantapia.com/maps/wal...tepulciano.htm
Has anyone ever done a similar hike? Thoughts? We are very active and outdoorsy, so are not worried about the exertion...but would it be hard to navigate? Is it easy to get a ride back to Pienza when we are finished (a cab or a friendly hitch)?

SUNDAY, MAY 5
-Checkout by 10AM
-Continue exploring by car heading towards Rome - should we stop in Orvieto? What about Civita di Bagnoregio (maybe for lunch)?
-Drop car at FCO in the late afternoon (does anyone know what time the rental car offices close on Sunday at the airport?)

We intend to have a relaxed pace for this portion of the trip, always sleeping in and trying never to be rushed. We love driving and love the freedom that a car affords. While I will bring info on driving tours, we don't need to see every single hill town and will probably do an abridged version as described in the link I posted. I think that I will enjoy the scenery even more than the actual towns - but I would like help choosing the few towns to prioritize as a stop, then others we can do if time allows and we still have interest.

Thanks so much for your feedback!
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Old Mar 13th, 2013, 02:04 PM
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Shamelessly topping in the hopes of getting a little help on the Tuscany portion of my trip. Thank you!
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Old Mar 13th, 2013, 03:13 PM
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A couple of comments - we tried to do the Rick Steves self guided canal tour (using our MP3 players). It is almost impossible to get the correct seats on the vaporetto to get this to work. The commentary is still good - but don't be surprised if you can't make it work exactly.

We were able to use Rick Steves Mp3 tour of St. Mark's to very good effect. As you come into St. Mark's - you can step off behind a curtain and have a moment to really take in the surroundings and listen to his commentary. Most everyone is rushing in at that point - and don't realize there is a little area you can stand and just soak it all in.

We love Bologna - looks like you already have a lot on your agenda! One thing we enjoyed was the walking tour that starts at the TI (across from the big cathedral). The day we went, we were the only ones that showed up so we basically got a private walking tour of the city for a very reasonable price!
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Old Mar 13th, 2013, 07:10 PM
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Illnative - thank you so much! For the Bologna walking tour, was that something that you needed to sign up for in advance? What was the cost?
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 01:05 PM
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Well I can't seem to find it anymore! Maybe they don't do it!

Here is where we went to sign up for it - it is the local "TI" - but I can't find anything on the website that shows they do these tours anymore.

http://www.bolognawelcome.com/en/abo...logna-welcome/

One other thing this website reminded me of - if you need to do any booking of train tickets - this is the place to do it once you are physically there. Once we got to Bologna, we needed to book train tickets to Florence and then from Florence to Rome. They were able to do all of it here for us - and they spoke GREAT English and were very patient with us explaining the various train options. Much less stressful than most of our experiences at train stations trying to buy tickets!
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Old Mar 14th, 2013, 08:58 PM
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We will at least stop by the TI on our first day on Bologna to see if they offer tours so that we can decide if we want to take one later in our stay. Thanks for the tips!
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Old Mar 16th, 2013, 07:48 AM
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Last up...Rome!

SUNDAY, MARCH 5
-Driving from Tuscany, drop rental car at FCO in the late afternoon
-Train or cab to apartment in Trastevere (5 nights)
-Staying here:
http://www.holidaylettings.co.uk/rentals/rome/110408
-8PM Dinner booked at L’Osteria di Monteverde

MONDAY, MAY 6
-Sleep in
-Pick up goodies to stock apartment
-12:30PM - Walks of Italy Ancient Rome Tour (Colosseum, Forum, Palatine Hill)
http://www.walksofitaly.com/tour_boo...l_listing/1/65
-Cook dinner in apartment, evening walk around neighborhood

TUESDAY, MAY 7
-7:45AM - Walks of Italy Pristine Sistine Tour (Vatican Museums, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's)
http://www.walksofitaly.com/tour_boo...l_listing/6/43
-Rest mid-day
-Blowout dinner, probably at Pipero al Rex, though Metamorfsi, All'Oro, and Hostaria Glass are in the running as well

WEDNESDAY, MAY 8
-Self-guided Rick Steves' Heart of Rome walk - includes Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps
-Enjoy lunch and granitas somewhere
-Perhaps add the self-guide RS Trastevere walk, including Santa Maria church
-Probably cook dinner in apartment

THURSDAY, MAY 9
-Open day - finish up anything we didn't get to before, walk around neighborhood, enjoy leisurely coffee and wine wherever we see fit
-If we feel like doing something more scheduled, perhaps book a last minute tasting with Vino Roma
http://www.vinoroma.com/
-Dinner out somewhere to celebrate end of trip

FRIDAY, MAY 10
-10:10AM Depart FCO for US

For this leg of the trip, a lot of people might say that we are not doing enough. But I think we might be ready for some less scheduled time by this point in the trip. As we have a low limit for art museums, I have decided that the Vatican Museums will be enough and have not planned to see the Borghese Gallery...will save that for a future trip. I have also decided against a day trip (though we could always head to Ostia Antica at the last minute) and the Scavi Tour. I thought about doing a walking food tour, but decided I would rather not have another group tour scheduled.

After seeing the biggest sites, I think we will most enjoy checking out coffee shops and wine bars and watching the world go by. We are staying in Trastevere with the hope that we have more of a neighborhood feel. If you have any suggestions for particular food shops, markets, coffee or wine bars in that neighborhood, I would appreciate it.

And I'm still hoping to get some help narrowing down the towns to see in Tuscany, if you have advice on that. And any other thoughts that pop into your head.

Thank you endlessly to Fodorites for helping this trip come together. We are very much looking forward to it!
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Old Mar 16th, 2013, 08:20 AM
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looks like a nice plan, caze, and well -paced.

there are always things to see and do in Rome which you don't need to plan for - a new church to look at, a museum you haven't seen before, a glass of wine or spremuta in the sunshine - so much to enjoy.
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Old Mar 16th, 2013, 03:46 PM
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Thanks Ann! I think that those are the things that we are most looking forward to...the unplanned things! We are just trying to make sure that we leave enough time open so that the serendipitous things have time to happen.
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