milestogoneedadvice

Stu Dudley and all France Experts,

Since my first post, I have taken your advice and completely overhauled our trip. I confess that this is a big trip for us. This is our first trip to France. We want to see and do as much as we can, but per everyone’s instructions we have slowed it down considerably. The more I read the more I don’t know. This trip will give us a great overview of this country, and hopefully someday we can return to bask in the area we love the most.

Please advise of how to manage each area: favorite stops, restaurants, realistic distance management, etc.

Arrival in France and take the train to Chartres. Overnight in Chartres. We should have some time the first afternoon and morning to see the Cathedral. Rent car in Chartres, drive to Amboise. We might be able to see a Chateau that afternoon. We will get to our lodging, have dinner, and maybe go to the sound and light show at Chambord. The next day we will visit a couple of the Chateau in the area (recommendations?). We will spend the second night in Amboise and then drive to the area around Limoges.

We plan to lodge in a B&B around Oradour-sur- Glane. I think we will have some time that afternoon. We will also have the next morning. Then we will drive to Sarlat, where we have lodging in a B&B for 5 nights. We want to do the canoe thing, any recommendations. I have read some of Rick Steve’s itineraries for the area as well as Fodors. Give me your thoughts.

We will leave Sarlat and check out Rocamadour, Cahors, whatever we think is the best. We will spend the night somewhere between Sarlat and Carcassonne. This is where I really need some help.

After our night on the road to Carcassonne, we will arrive there late in the day. We will spend three nights. This is with the idea we can see Carcassonne, maybe the area around Minerve, perhaps the Galamus Gorges, Narbonne????????

We will then drive from Carcassonne to St. Remy. We will spend five nights here. We hope to see some of this area and I know that five days isn’t enough. But again we are trying to make this an overview. Again I have read the Rick Steves’ itinerary for the area and some on Fodors. How would you plan this time in Provence’?

We will then take the train from Arles back to Paris. There we will take the river cruise to the Normandy area.

Whew! I have worked on this, tyring to read and research, just a lot to learn. I respect and appreciate your advice. I apologize if I misspelled something or if I am not accurate in my assumptions. Thank you for your time!

StCirq

OK, it's getting better, but I'd advise to stop reading Rick Steves. He's completely ignorant about this area of France. Get the Michelin Green Guide and toss Rick.

Regarding canoeing in the Dordogne, my favorite place is in St-Vincent-de-Cosse (which I guarantee Rick has never even heard of); it's about halfway between St-Cyprien and Beynac, and you'll see a huge fancy château-hotel on your left just before you see the small sign for St-Vincent-de-Cosse on your right, Make the right turn and follow the winding road down until you see a small parking lot on your left, a wooden shack, and a little beach. Rent your canoes/kayaks there. They will transport you up to La Roque-Gageac or wherever you choose to start from (you'll have your choice of 6-km, 10-km, 15-km trips or even overnight ones - we usually do the 6-km ones), and you'll have to remember where to land at the end of the ride.

Next, I would rearrange things so that you're not going directly from Sarlat and spending 3 nights in/near Carcassonne. I would spend one night at most in Carcassonne and the other two between Sarlat and Carcassonne. For example, one night in Figeac, one night in Albi, and one night in Toulouse. Carcassonne should just be a 3-hour blip or so in this itinerary.

From St-Rémy, visit Les Baux, Arles, the Camargue (please spend a whole day exploring this glorious area, especially Aigues-Mortes), Uzès, the Pont du Gard, Ile-sur-la-Sorgue, and maybe a Lubéron village or two.

StCirq

Oh, and to get really granular, there's a warren of amazing little towns between Figeac and Carcassonne, and if you stay on the D roads, you can go through at least a few of them: Revel, St-Antonin-Noble-Val, Cordes-sur-Ciel, St-Salvétat-Peyrales, Catelnau-de-Montmiral, Castelnaudary...

milestogoneedadvice

Granular....... hmmm
This really is a lot of help!
We were thinking of driving from Sarlat and over to Rocomadaur, Cahors, sort of that area. So then I think you are saying we would still have time to go on to Carscassonne and be there by evening to see the Cite' at dusk. Perhaps we spend the first night there. Then over to Caunes-Minervois.
Or as you said one night in Figeac (recommended lodging?), one night in Carcassonne, and one night in Caunes Miinervois.
I am okay with one night jumps. But early advise said that it was not a good idea to jump from one place to another.
If you did all three in one place( if that makes sense), where would you recommend?
I appreciate you talking to me about this and advising. I am lost as a goose and just trying to make sense of it all.
As for the granular part........I love the detail, but it may be hard for me to figure out with so much????????
I promise to spend a whole day exploring St. Remy, Les Baux, Arles, and he Camargue! I think that is an easy promise to keep.

StuDudley

I pretty much agree with St Cirq - including tossing the Rick Steves.

After Sarlat, I would stay 2 nights at Domaine de la Rhue ( www.domainedelarhue.com ) near Rocamadour. On the way there from Sarlat, follow the Dordogne River & visit La Cave, Martel, Carennac, Autoire, and Loubressac. Next day visit Pech Merle cave (reserve a month in advance), St Cirq Lapopie, follow the scenic Cele river east (visiting various sites along the way) to Figeac (visit - get the walking tour from the TI), then follow the Lot river (less scenic than the Cele, IMO) west back to the St Cirq area. Then back to the Domaine de la Rhue area and visit the Gouffre de Pasirac and then over to Rocamadour in the early evening to visit this site without the hordes. This will be a busy day. You could visit Rocamadour on the prior day.

Next day, view (not visit) Rocamadour from l'Hospitalet (view only good in the am) and then hop on the A20 to Carcassonne and spend the day, night, and next morning exploring the fortress & surrounding area.

Then to Provence.

I don't know anything about a river cruise in Normandy. Where did you hear about this? River cruises are too restraining for me. We usually spend 2 months in France each year. With your short visit, make sure that the cruise is something that is really worth your (too little) time.

I may have mentioned this before, but I have about 80 pages worth of write-ups/itineraries on the Dordogne, Languedoc, Provence, and the Cote d'Azur. Plus more on Normandy - but nothing about any cruises. If you would like this info, e-mail me at [email protected] & I'll attach the 3 itineraries to the reply e-mail. I get from 4-12 requests for these itineraries (plus others) every day - so let me know which ones you want. We're leaving for several days in Carmel/Big Sur tomorrow & won't be home till Sunday - so a reply may be delayed.

Stu Dudley

Michael

We rented a canoe in Groléjac with the end stop in Beynac. But that took all day. Shorter trips may be available.

StCirq

Stu's plan is also a good one - just depends on where you want to concentrate. I don't usually advocate for one-night stops, I was just trying to steer you away from three nights in Carcassonne, which I would not find agreeable. Problem is, there is just so much to do and see in that part of France.

I never heard of a river cruise in Normandy, either. Is it one of the ones that starts in Paris?

And what is the particular attraction of Caunes-Minervois? The abbey? It's rather out of your pathway.

StuDudley

>>back to the Domaine de la Rhue area and visit the Gouffre de Pasirac<<

Padirac

my left finger hit one key to the left of "d".

Stu Dudley

milestogoneedadvice

The Caunes-Minervois just sounded like a pretty area and it pulled us out of Carcassonne with the ability to explore, maybe even Narbonne.

Carcassonne is actually more central, I think, for exploring, but many responses say not to stay there because there is so much else to see.

And yes, I realize this area is rich in beauty and culture. So I want to try and find some focus and do this right.

Obviously we can't do it all. But planning should help us figure it out, I hope.

The river cruise is what started this whole thing. We don't usually travel like that, but it was set up with family and friends. It starts in Paris, to Normandy, and back to Paris. That part of the trip is a done deal and structured. We decided to springboard from that into our own adventure. We didn't want to do the tours of France, opting for planning ourselves. I still think that is going to make it special for us.

Thank you for your interest in making this a great trip!

StCirq

I would skip Caunes-Minervois. How are you even going to get to that far-fetched corner of France to begin with? Seems really strange.

milestogoneedadvice

Well St. Cirq, in my non expert point of view, it seemed doable and like a nice area. I had no idea it was strange. So thank you for pointing that out. I'm sure I can never have your expertise, so I appreciate your advice. Just remember, I'm asking because you are the expert!
Please continue to analyze this with me.
Thank you!

milestogoneedadvice

Started again on research and planning and read my first on Figeac. Oh my, thank you for opening up these opportunities to us. The area looks so beautiful!

Any recommendations for a B&B there.

Stu has recommended one for the Rocamadour area, Figeac looks interesting.
Thank you again. I love the planning and anticipation.

Mucky

If you get the opportunity read a book about Oradour Sur Glane before you go. It will give you a greater insight about what went on there.

I picked up the following book at the shop there and wished I had read it before hand. I am sure there are plenty of others available

Oradour--Final-Verdict-Aftermath-Massacre
Douglas W Hawes

Muck

milestogoneedadvice

Thank you so much for this information. I love to read about the area of travel prior to the visit. I'm working on a reading list right now!

StCirq

The only time I stayed overnight in Figeac wwe stayed at the Hôtel-Restaurant Hostellerie de l'Europe. As I recall it was on the river and a very nice place.

StCirq

And if you have expensive tastebuds, this place is amazing:

http://www.chateau-viguier-figeac.fr/accueil.html

(never stayed there but had one eof the most memorable meals ever in the restaurant)