ZenDaddy

We are planning a 15-day trip in mid-October with our two adult daughters (29 & 25)--their first time in Italy. We will spend a few days in Florence, a day or maybe two in Bologna/Modena/Parma, before driving to Cinque Terre for a couple of days, through Tuscan hilltowns and ending in Rome. For me, the new part of the trip is Bologna/Modena/Parma, and traveling in Italy with my daughters. I would love advice. Spend a night in Bologna? Or Parma? Or both? Where to stay? Where to eat in Bologna and Parma? Best place in Modena to learn a little about balsamic vinegar and buy a great small bottle to take home? Does anyone know of a cooking class that won't cost a fortune for the four us? A moderately-priced agritourismo around Siena/San Gimignano that you would return to?

Grateful for your tips.
ZenDaddy

zeppole

A day or two in Bologna/Modena/Parma is not going to allow you see much or eat much. I think you are putting yourself behind the 8-ball by trying to fit in Bologna en route to le Cinque Terre, since it is pretty much in the opposite direction.

If you are really determined to see Bologna, perhaps the best thing to do is take the train from Florence to Bologna, spend the day and night there, and then rent a car the next morning and drive to Modena for lunch. Later on, drive to Parma and spend the night there. That will put you in a good position to eventually drop of the car in La Spezia, since you won't need it or want it on the Italian Riviera.

If you are not determined to see Bologna, consider simply taking the train to Parma from Florence, spend a few nights there, and see Modena by train from Parma. (It's a short ride). Proceed from Parma by train to le Cinque Terre.

The art and craft of making aged balsamic vinegar and knowing what to buy and where is something you can do some research about on the web and by reading Fred Plotkin's Italy for the Gourmet Traveler. (I believe he recommends some places where you can taste and purchase quality vinegar.) Traditionally-made balsamic vinegar is actually not easy to track down, although you will see plenty of bottles of expensive stuff being sold. For a "great small bottle to take home" from Modena, I would expect to pay 50 euros or more per ounce for the real deal.

http://goeurope.about.com/od/emiliar...micvinegar.htm

As for cooking classes, what would like to learn to cook? The cuisines of the areas you mention -- Florence, Bologna, Modena, Parma, Liguria, Siena and San Gimignano are all a bit or even wildly different. And what do you consider a "fortune" for paying a teacher to teach the four of you?

zeppole

Sorry -- I just realized that you are planning to drive to San Gimignano/Siena after you leave le Cinque Terre. I suggest that if you keep your car on the Italian Riviera, you stay in Lerici or Portovenere rather than le Cinque Terre itself.

Or delay getting a car until you leave le Cinque Terre. Pick one up in La Spezia. You really don't need one to see Bologna, Parma and Modena.

ZenDaddy

Thanks, Zeppole. I saw a comment from another post about your affinity for Bologna, so I'm grateful for your advice. I will look into trains. Could be fun. Any suggestions for things to see and restaurants to try in Bologna are also appreciated.

dncdave

We just spent four days in Bologna. There is a fair amount to do in Bologna and it is a great place to use as a base for day trips to other towns like Ferara that is 40 minutes by train.

It has become our template for where to visit. A small town that you can walk across from side to side in 25 minutes, lots to do, and a dozen places for day trips.

One bad, bad, bad thing about Bologna. I still haven't taken of the damage to my waist line. Best food I have ever had in 45 years of travel.

ZenDaddy

Thanks, DNCDave. Favorite meal in Bologna?? Favorite restaurants?