Austria Trip Report - belated
Feb 5th, 2006, 06:37 AM
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Austria Trip Report - belated
I am now planning my 2006 travels and I take so much information from other people’s trip reports but I very rarely leave any of my own. So while somewhat overdue I thought I’d leave a quick report on my short time in Austria in spring 2005. As I am a budget traveller I shall add the costs in where I can. We went to Vienna, Melk and Salzburg.
Day 1
Our Austria travels were part of a larger trip (preceded by Italy and followed by Germany). For E98 for both of us we had booked the overnight train Venice – Vienna. We were split in single sex rooms of 6 berths (which differed from the booking). I met some lovely people in my room and after a while we all settled in for the night. I would not recommend this overnight train as it was a slow train that rocked a lot and actually went via Salzburg. It got into Vienna slightly late at 9am and I felt like I had been at sea when we were finally back on dry land! Tired and grumpy we walked down from Westbahnhof down Marionhilferstrasse to our hotel.
We stayed at Pensione Kraml (E46 for a double – huge rooms, bathroom outside room, gorgeous breakfast - what a bargain!) We spent the rest of the day recovering and doing errands as we had already been travelling for some time. The new pope was chosen – my husband has written in our journal that he was disappointed they did not choose Father Dougal McGuire!! Haha! BTW it was really difficult to find a laundry in Vienna so plan ahead!
We also went to the U-Bahn and purchased weekly passes for E12.50 each. (Again what a bargain!) We could then use all public transport (in buses and trams) without having to worry about getting individual tickets. The Pension was a short walk to a U-Bahn station and we probably used the underground more often than we should have.
Day 1
Our Austria travels were part of a larger trip (preceded by Italy and followed by Germany). For E98 for both of us we had booked the overnight train Venice – Vienna. We were split in single sex rooms of 6 berths (which differed from the booking). I met some lovely people in my room and after a while we all settled in for the night. I would not recommend this overnight train as it was a slow train that rocked a lot and actually went via Salzburg. It got into Vienna slightly late at 9am and I felt like I had been at sea when we were finally back on dry land! Tired and grumpy we walked down from Westbahnhof down Marionhilferstrasse to our hotel.
We stayed at Pensione Kraml (E46 for a double – huge rooms, bathroom outside room, gorgeous breakfast - what a bargain!) We spent the rest of the day recovering and doing errands as we had already been travelling for some time. The new pope was chosen – my husband has written in our journal that he was disappointed they did not choose Father Dougal McGuire!! Haha! BTW it was really difficult to find a laundry in Vienna so plan ahead!
We also went to the U-Bahn and purchased weekly passes for E12.50 each. (Again what a bargain!) We could then use all public transport (in buses and trams) without having to worry about getting individual tickets. The Pension was a short walk to a U-Bahn station and we probably used the underground more often than we should have.
Feb 5th, 2006, 06:38 AM
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Day 2
The next day was beautiful but chilly (all our photos we are wearing warm hats and scarves). We U-Bahned into town and had a brief wander around the centre of town, saw the cathedral and Hofburg.
We then took the U-Bahn out to Schonbrun. It was really easy to get there but despite that we walked the wrong way down the street once we came out of the station. (Tip: follow everybody else they are probably going the correct way.) We really enjoyed the palace. We took the tour of the palace with the audio guide. The audio guide described the rooms as well as the people who used to live there. Afterwards we wandered around the immense gardens and did the little maze. It was a fun way to spend an hour. There are two large harmony stones (one male and one female) and if you embrace the stone you transfer harmony to your partner! In the middle of a smaller maze is a foot glockenspiel thing – I have a movie of my husband playing a little tune on it (once we had waiting in line with all the children!). All up E27.90 for two of us.
We had another wienerschnitzel at the café in the stables. Back in town we decided to experience one of the kaffeehaus. Not being coffee drinkers we tried it out, read the paper, avoided the smokers and decided that we would remain non-coffee drinkers but glad that we had experienced some Viennese culture.
The next day was beautiful but chilly (all our photos we are wearing warm hats and scarves). We U-Bahned into town and had a brief wander around the centre of town, saw the cathedral and Hofburg.
We then took the U-Bahn out to Schonbrun. It was really easy to get there but despite that we walked the wrong way down the street once we came out of the station. (Tip: follow everybody else they are probably going the correct way.) We really enjoyed the palace. We took the tour of the palace with the audio guide. The audio guide described the rooms as well as the people who used to live there. Afterwards we wandered around the immense gardens and did the little maze. It was a fun way to spend an hour. There are two large harmony stones (one male and one female) and if you embrace the stone you transfer harmony to your partner! In the middle of a smaller maze is a foot glockenspiel thing – I have a movie of my husband playing a little tune on it (once we had waiting in line with all the children!). All up E27.90 for two of us.
We had another wienerschnitzel at the café in the stables. Back in town we decided to experience one of the kaffeehaus. Not being coffee drinkers we tried it out, read the paper, avoided the smokers and decided that we would remain non-coffee drinkers but glad that we had experienced some Viennese culture.
Feb 5th, 2006, 06:57 AM
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Day 3
Another beautiful day and a bit warmer. After breakfast we wandered into town and hopped on the #2 tram. We did the entire loop to get an idea of the layout of town and see some of the sights from a distance.
Next we went to the Haus der Musik. About E10 each. This was a fun interactive museum with rooms dedicated to certain composers and an interesting exhibit dedicated to the Philharmonic orchestra. Certainly only a museum for a music lover – and as we are both musicians we thought it was great! You can also be a virtual conductor.
We spent the afternoon looking around the theatres for a show that evening. The Opera was sold out. We ended up watching Madame Butterfly at the Volksoper (in Italian, sub title German) . In Vienna there is a ticket class called Stehplatz. Basically standing room tickets. However, at Volksoper once the lights go down you can move to any empty seat!! Because we did not understand this we bought the cheapest last minutes seats (E6 each) then moved into the centre of the grand circle once the lights went down. Obviously only works for shows that are not sold out – more likely mid week. Next time I am in Vienna I will go to a show every night!!
It was an odd version. They had changed the ending so the Americans murdered Madame Butterfly (rather than her committing suicide??). It did confuse me at the time as I don’t really speak German or Italian so I was depending on my knowledge of the show to understand what was happening!!
I hope that this report is useful to somebody
Another beautiful day and a bit warmer. After breakfast we wandered into town and hopped on the #2 tram. We did the entire loop to get an idea of the layout of town and see some of the sights from a distance.
Next we went to the Haus der Musik. About E10 each. This was a fun interactive museum with rooms dedicated to certain composers and an interesting exhibit dedicated to the Philharmonic orchestra. Certainly only a museum for a music lover – and as we are both musicians we thought it was great! You can also be a virtual conductor.
We spent the afternoon looking around the theatres for a show that evening. The Opera was sold out. We ended up watching Madame Butterfly at the Volksoper (in Italian, sub title German) . In Vienna there is a ticket class called Stehplatz. Basically standing room tickets. However, at Volksoper once the lights go down you can move to any empty seat!! Because we did not understand this we bought the cheapest last minutes seats (E6 each) then moved into the centre of the grand circle once the lights went down. Obviously only works for shows that are not sold out – more likely mid week. Next time I am in Vienna I will go to a show every night!!
It was an odd version. They had changed the ending so the Americans murdered Madame Butterfly (rather than her committing suicide??). It did confuse me at the time as I don’t really speak German or Italian so I was depending on my knowledge of the show to understand what was happening!!
I hope that this report is useful to somebody
Feb 5th, 2006, 07:48 AM
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Day 4
Our last full day in Vienna we chose to go walking around the perimeter of the Ringstrasse. We went through the Rasse park and then Stadtplatz where the Golden statue of Strass is. Beware all the people in fancy dress who wish you to spend far too much money going to a classical music concert with all the musicians in period costume. From what I have heard they are fairly average concerts mainly full of tour groups.
We headed back to Stephensplatz where a fair was underway with a military band and street performers. (The street performers were very good, band OK). We took a brief walking tour around Vienna - E12 each (perhaps should have done this on the first day not last). It was in English and German but most people spoke German so the lady generally forgot to translate for me (my husband understood most of it so he translated a bit). Or spoke for 10 minutes then gave me one sentence in English. Never mind. I took all the photos instead while husband practiced his German.
Had very bad, expensive Indian for dinner. Serves us right for not eating local food!
We really loved Vienna and did not really make the best use of time while we were there. Will just have to go back!
Our last full day in Vienna we chose to go walking around the perimeter of the Ringstrasse. We went through the Rasse park and then Stadtplatz where the Golden statue of Strass is. Beware all the people in fancy dress who wish you to spend far too much money going to a classical music concert with all the musicians in period costume. From what I have heard they are fairly average concerts mainly full of tour groups.
We headed back to Stephensplatz where a fair was underway with a military band and street performers. (The street performers were very good, band OK). We took a brief walking tour around Vienna - E12 each (perhaps should have done this on the first day not last). It was in English and German but most people spoke German so the lady generally forgot to translate for me (my husband understood most of it so he translated a bit). Or spoke for 10 minutes then gave me one sentence in English. Never mind. I took all the photos instead while husband practiced his German.
Had very bad, expensive Indian for dinner. Serves us right for not eating local food!
We really loved Vienna and did not really make the best use of time while we were there. Will just have to go back!
Feb 5th, 2006, 07:58 AM
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Day 5 – Melk
Early we went back to the train station to catch a train to Melk – one change to get there. Some kind Hungarians helped us understand how the train worked and how many stops it was (still new to trains at this stage). We had no accommodation booked and decided to wander around town looking. 10 minutes later we had walked the entire town packs in tow. It is very pretty with the monastery above the town. For E50 we stayed at the Gasthof Golden Stein.
We rushed down to the dock by the river to catch the last trip down the Danube to Krems (not all that blue!). E35. It was a great cruise, however we were not able to sit upstairs as there were lots of old ladies “staking claim” on the beaches i.e. seat, handbag and coat so we could not sit down. I will not comment on nationality – just to say I was surprised that they were European mostly because we never experienced such unfriendliness elsewhere – I presume they were part of a tour group.
It was a lovely cruise with many sights along the way. Several people on the boat had obviously done the cycle trip and I was jealous as it was very beautiful and I wish we had planned more time here. The boat docked late and we almost missed the last boat going back the other way – we had to embark through the first ship - fortunately my husband spotted this! We got to be upstairs on the way back for some sunset photos.
That night we watch Star Wars Ep II in German. Husband thought this was brilliant.
Early we went back to the train station to catch a train to Melk – one change to get there. Some kind Hungarians helped us understand how the train worked and how many stops it was (still new to trains at this stage). We had no accommodation booked and decided to wander around town looking. 10 minutes later we had walked the entire town packs in tow. It is very pretty with the monastery above the town. For E50 we stayed at the Gasthof Golden Stein.
We rushed down to the dock by the river to catch the last trip down the Danube to Krems (not all that blue!). E35. It was a great cruise, however we were not able to sit upstairs as there were lots of old ladies “staking claim” on the beaches i.e. seat, handbag and coat so we could not sit down. I will not comment on nationality – just to say I was surprised that they were European mostly because we never experienced such unfriendliness elsewhere – I presume they were part of a tour group.
It was a lovely cruise with many sights along the way. Several people on the boat had obviously done the cycle trip and I was jealous as it was very beautiful and I wish we had planned more time here. The boat docked late and we almost missed the last boat going back the other way – we had to embark through the first ship - fortunately my husband spotted this! We got to be upstairs on the way back for some sunset photos.
That night we watch Star Wars Ep II in German. Husband thought this was brilliant.
Feb 5th, 2006, 09:09 AM
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Day 6 – Melk – Salzburg
We climbed up to Melk Abbey in the morning. Unfortunately there was no English tour in the morning (still early in the season). Instead we wandered around on our own avoiding the tours going on in other languages. It is still a working abbey and school so certain areas are roped off so visitors will not interrupt. It has a very modern museum with many interactive displays. However, the highlight is most definitely the ornate church. There are two skeletons on display decked out in jewels within the chapel.
Then we hopped to the station to catch a train to Salzburg. We had to change at Astatte. On the train we met a young Austrian army cadet – compulsory service. He said sorry my English is not very good then proceeded to speak in perfect English!! These talented Europeans! He told us he can tell where foreigners are from by the way they hold their skis!!! Also the kind train conductor gave a special announcement so we would know when to change trains!! We met so many kind people.
It was raining in Salzburg and snow on the hills. We had not pre-booked accommodation which was a mistake as we wandered around in the rain! Found somewhere eventually and had a lazy evening.
We climbed up to Melk Abbey in the morning. Unfortunately there was no English tour in the morning (still early in the season). Instead we wandered around on our own avoiding the tours going on in other languages. It is still a working abbey and school so certain areas are roped off so visitors will not interrupt. It has a very modern museum with many interactive displays. However, the highlight is most definitely the ornate church. There are two skeletons on display decked out in jewels within the chapel.
Then we hopped to the station to catch a train to Salzburg. We had to change at Astatte. On the train we met a young Austrian army cadet – compulsory service. He said sorry my English is not very good then proceeded to speak in perfect English!! These talented Europeans! He told us he can tell where foreigners are from by the way they hold their skis!!! Also the kind train conductor gave a special announcement so we would know when to change trains!! We met so many kind people.
It was raining in Salzburg and snow on the hills. We had not pre-booked accommodation which was a mistake as we wandered around in the rain! Found somewhere eventually and had a lazy evening.
Feb 6th, 2006, 09:38 AM
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Day 7 – Salzburg
It was another rainy day. We wandered around Salzburg on a strudel-hunt. (In Italy we kept a gelato count and in Austria a Strudel count – something fun to post on our website for the folks back home). We saw the shop selling Christmas Decorated Eggs (in April!) and wandered about. We went to the Mirabell gardens and saw a young American girl skipping around. We were thinking strange Americans. Then we understood this was where Maria from Sound of Music skipped down. So we had to do that too!!! We then climbed up to the fortress, decided it was too expensive, didn’t go in and instead walked around all the paths on the hill (a very impressive, cheaper alternative!!). Views were wonderful and there was a ruined castle and signs in English along the way. But it was cold!
The weather meant our time in Salzburg was not as appreciated as some of the other places we had visited.
It was another rainy day. We wandered around Salzburg on a strudel-hunt. (In Italy we kept a gelato count and in Austria a Strudel count – something fun to post on our website for the folks back home). We saw the shop selling Christmas Decorated Eggs (in April!) and wandered about. We went to the Mirabell gardens and saw a young American girl skipping around. We were thinking strange Americans. Then we understood this was where Maria from Sound of Music skipped down. So we had to do that too!!! We then climbed up to the fortress, decided it was too expensive, didn’t go in and instead walked around all the paths on the hill (a very impressive, cheaper alternative!!). Views were wonderful and there was a ruined castle and signs in English along the way. But it was cold!
The weather meant our time in Salzburg was not as appreciated as some of the other places we had visited.
Feb 6th, 2006, 09:44 AM
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Thanks for the report. We also arrived in Salzburg without reserved accomodations, but the info office at the train station directed us to the nearby Adlerhof, which turned out to be a nice, inexpensive place to stay.
Feb 6th, 2006, 10:40 AM
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Day 7
We took the bus out to Hellbrun (#25) E3.40 each. This proved to be one our favourites for the whole trip. Hellbrun is a castle south of Salzburg. The highlight is the trick fountain walk. I don’t want to give it away but it was sooo funny. Wear clothes that dry fast. The gardens are also very lovely including the pavilion from Sound of Music (relocated and much smaller than you think). The hunting lodge with audio guide is OK with lots of animal painting and stuffed animals. The highlight is definitely the fountains.
We wandered some more around Salzburg and the next day took the train to Germany.
We really enjoyed Austria and certainly need to go back to Vienna.
Thanks for making it to the end of my report. I'm not much of a writer but I hope some of my experiences will help other people plan!!
We took the bus out to Hellbrun (#25) E3.40 each. This proved to be one our favourites for the whole trip. Hellbrun is a castle south of Salzburg. The highlight is the trick fountain walk. I don’t want to give it away but it was sooo funny. Wear clothes that dry fast. The gardens are also very lovely including the pavilion from Sound of Music (relocated and much smaller than you think). The hunting lodge with audio guide is OK with lots of animal painting and stuffed animals. The highlight is definitely the fountains.
We wandered some more around Salzburg and the next day took the train to Germany.
We really enjoyed Austria and certainly need to go back to Vienna.
Thanks for making it to the end of my report. I'm not much of a writer but I hope some of my experiences will help other people plan!!
