Arrived at Sudbahnhof about 3:30 on a Thursday afternoon, after a relaxing 4 hour train ride from Prague. Neither of the two ATM's I could find in the terminal would take my card, and I worried a bit. I took some greenbacks, and my leftover Czech Krona, and got some Euro's at a change counter, at least enough to pay the taxi ride to the hotel, and hoped that the ATM's in town would work (they did). The taxi ride was slow, as traffic in Vienna is snarly. The taxi driver lived in Brno, in Czech Republic, where his wife works. He had a lot to say - a very interesting guy.<BR>We had reservations at Konig von Ungarn, (www.kvu.at) mentioned many times on this board, just a short block off Stephensdom Plaza, and in the same building as Figarohaus. I arranged it by email, using fax for the credit card number. Our room, #11, (E182), did not have an outside window, but looked out over a huge lobby/lounge area, with a skylight. I though we'd miss the outside window, but it was not a problem. Also, no noise from street or lobby. There was a lift. The room was large with a sitting area, comfortable bed, lots of closet space and an in-room safe. The bathroom had plenty of room. The desk clerk, who seemed always to be there, Herr Eisenstein, was extremely helpful and friendly. The breakfasts, included, were excellent spreads of various breads (no hard rolls), pastries, juices, granolas, yogurts, and eggs cooked to order. We really enjoyed this hotel, and the location couldn't have been better. (Footnote: I was forced to call USA from room, feared outrageous charges. But the 10 minute call only E0,80 (80 cents) on my bill.) The hotel was a block from Stephensdom Square, and we found ourselves there quite often during our stay. The magnificent church is of course the centerpiece of Vienna, and worth a tour.<BR>We had dinner reservations at Zum Weissen Rauchfangkehrer, The White Chimneysweep. (It seems that this location was a bar a few hundred years ago, which was frequented by a certain chimney sweep. He would visit the baker's daughter next door, and return to the bar all covered with white flour instead of black soot). (www.weisser-rauchfangkehrer.at) For our arrival night, we could not have been more pleased with the restaurant choice. The building is from the 1700's, and is charmingly furnished. While we dined in a booth, a lady played Mozart and other standards on a nearby piano. I had my first (and last) Tafelspitz (Franz Joseph ate this stuff every day!); my wife had an excellent rolled filet of highland beef. After dinner, we strolled the Grabenstrasse and wandered around Stevensdom Square, window-shopping and people watching in the late evening twilight. Number 1 of 4

The next morning it was raining. We had planned to "do" Schoenbrunn Palace and wanted an early start. So after a very good and leisurely breakfast, we hit the street about 11. By a convoluted use of email and fax, I had secured reservations for the Vienna Boys Choir final mass performance of the season, Sunday June 30. The fax was the only evidence of my reservation, so I had guarded it with my life since March. We were to be in 2 of the 10 or so seats where you can actually see the boys. We were to pick up these tickets (E29 each) at the Hofburg Chapel on the previous Friday. I had also arranged by internet the Mozart Konzert (www.mozartkonzert.at) for Saturday's 17.00 performance. We swung by those two places and picked up our tickets, and caught a cab to Schoenbrunn. We would have preferred to ride the tram, but it began to rain heavier. Herr Eisenstein said it would rain all day. He was right!<BR>Our tickets for the tour of the 40 rooms in the Palace with audio guide cost E9,50, and give you an entry time. We only had to wait about 10 minutes before our "time." They do this to help spread out the crowd. We entered at noon, and were done before two. We were caught up in the history that was presented, and took more time than many. The detail regarding Maria Theresa, Joseph and sad Elizabeth, the Kennedy and Kruschev meeting room, and the room where 6 year old Mozart performed for Maria Theresa, then jumping into her lap covering her with kisses, has inspired me to seek out some history books. We lunched at the nearby caf&eacute; off the front courtyard. Because of the heavy rain, walking the extensive and beautiful outside grounds was not an option (for us). They have a little Disneyland like train that travels the circuit around the grounds, with 8 points where you can get on and off at will. The train was E5.00, included in a different ticket if I would have read the signs better when we first got there. <BR>We got off the train at the Palm House (another E2.00 or so), which we found very interesting, but by the time we got up to the Glorietta, it was 4 and closed. The last train was starting down to the Palace. Since it was not raining at that moment, we enjoyed the chance to walk DOWN the hill to the Palace. But I had looked forward to an ice cream sundae at the Glorietta. The last stop was at the Carriage museum (awesome) before the cab ride back to hotel. Number 2 of 4

That night, dinner reservations at Griechenbeisl, in all the guidebooks. (www.griechenbeisl.at) Since it was raining, no outside seating (preferred outside). We ended up in the Musikzimmer, where a very talented Korean piano player performed to an appreciative crowd. The food was very good, menu easy to understand, wait staff very friendly. She had veal with red beet ravioli with capers as big as olives, I had pork with chantrelle mushrooms. A good old Viennese stick-to-your-ribs meat-and-potatoes feast. With fantastic deserts of apricot ice cream dumplings, and red wine pear with ice cream, and a couple of beers, under E60, and a great time.<BR>We hit the streets early on Saturday, maybe 10:30 or so. (This tourist stuff is grueling.) Around the corner from the hotel, found and went through Figarohaus, a very interesting display of M's work. Met a very intent music student from London. Walked to the Hofburg, seriously shopping all the way along Kartnerstrasse and back on Grabenstrasse, 'cause all stores are closed on Sunday. We ended up mid-afternoon at Caf&eacute; Central, one of our "must do's" for a great sandwich, tort and relaxation. A fine experience. They are closing the Central for two months - restoration. Our walk back took us through Am Hof, a noteworthy square, and more serious shopping before our 5pm Konzert.<BR>Some may consider Konzert im Mozarthaus touristy, glitsy, gimmicky, whatever. We loved it, and consider it and Schoenbrunn the highlights of our Vienna stay. I reserved our seats via internet (www.mozarthaus.at) E35 each, charged to credit card. The web site shows the quaint room, a basement room of a church around the corner from our hotel, where Mr M actually played (they say). Room for only about 40 persons, we were in the front row. They played Mozart, and a little Strauss and Hayden. The music student from England, who we had met earlier in the day at Figaro haus, was in tears at intermission. We were enthralled. The four musicians, dressed in period costumes, were very good and the acoustics were terrific. A few members of the audience left at intermission, the guy behind us snored quietly, but if you like Mozart, and don't want the formal concert scene, this is great. Tickets are hawked all over Stephensdom Square, your hotel can get them for you, I did not have to use the internet.<BR>The "show" was over before 7, and we adjourned to Caf&eacute; Diglas. Unfortunately, our meal was ruined this night by cigarette and cigar smoke. Because of the continuing rain, all patrons were inside, and well, eventually we just had to leave. We tolerate smoke pretty well, you have to if you want to enjoy Europe, but this one got to us. Too bad. A great Caf&eacute;. Number 3 of 4

Part 4 of 4<BR>Sunday, our last full day in Vienna, featured the Vienna Boys Choir's last Mass of the season. We were seated up four flights of stairs, had to lean out over the edge to get a glimpse of the boys, who were in a loft with a full concert orchestra. Only a few could see the boys or the orchestra. We knew this going in, so it was not a problem, but plenty of people are upset, even though the non-visible thing is well publicized. The singing was beautiful, the mass in German: a great experience. We talked with a couple of the boys after the service in the courtyard, as they hung around posing for pictures with happy tourists and their own families. After considering Belvedere Gardens, we opted instead for the State Apartments and Treasury in the adjacent Hofburg Palace. Loaded with historical relics, we found it quite interesting. There was one dining table centerpiece 100 feet long!Perhaps not for all, especially if history is a bore. After our jewelry and finery tour, we walked to the Sacher Caf&eacute; for the famous Sacher Tort. We just had to do it.<BR>For my wife's birthday eve dinner, we chose Drei Husaren, a famous and fancy gourmet restaurant. www.drei-husaren.at Herr Eisenstein was not sure about this one, in that it had gone through change of ownership. It turned out great. It is the one time during our trip that, I felt I should have worn a coat and tie. But as more people arrived, there was all mode of dress, including polo shirts, jeans and t-shirts. Coats and ties were also present. We avoided the unpriced (very expensive) hors d'overes cart. Her lobster soup and saddle of lamb with rosemary was excellent. We had fun counting the presence of wait staff; never less than 2, up to 8 were visible at one time. Many will consider this restaurant way too expensive, but the food and service were very high quality, and it worked well with our "special" occasion.<BR>The next morning, after breakfast and a fond farewell to Herr Eisenstein, we took a cab to the Avis station on Opernring, across from the Staatsoper. (Don't ever rent a car from Avis on Opernring. But that's another story.) We left Vienna for Halstatt and Salzburg. We enjoyed Vienna. 3 days, 4 nights seems enough to leisurely see everything, especially if one were to get going a little earlier in the day. But, what the heck! It's a vacation, right? Many on this board helped make this visit enjoyable for us. Thanks!

Hi Bill, thanks for your trip report! Lots of good info. I'm glad you like the White Chimney Sweep--tell your wife those cattle come from a small farm in the village of Gaal (in the Steiermark). We rented a cabin on the farm property last year. <BR>What was the highlight of the trip for you?<BR>BTilke (Brussels)

Thanks for the trip report...saving it while I'm counting the days till October! We planned our entire trip around the Vienna Boys Choir...have tickets to the Friday concert and Sunday mass.<BR><BR>Anne

BTilke: Our high points were Schoenbrunn Palace, the tour of the 40 rooms. A very historically impressive display. Also the Mozarthaus Konzert. I'm sure there is other quality concerts to be seen, but this one definately ends up high on our list.<BR>Also, the tour of the apartments and treasury of the Hofburg Palace. Silverware, table settings, and the royal vestments, babtismal clothes from hundreds of years ago, even a few things from 1,000 yrs ago. The crown jewels were especially impressive.<BR>Anne: They sing like angels. Enjoy!

Anne: I attended the European Congress of Radiology in March (in Vienna) and the VBC performed during the opening ceremonies. They were terrific.

Wonderful report. You ate where I ate--and loved it. Just finished writing a response to another thread asking what countries you're addicted to. Answered that we started in Austria (actually Vienna) and returned often in our early travels but had lately become more addicted to Italy, France and Spain. After reading your post and reliving so many wonderful memories it looks like Austria/Vienna will jump further up the "must return to" line. Thanks for a great report.

Bill, the only thing I think you missed out on was a trip to Grinzing for dinner at a heuriger. Lots of fun. But your trip sounds wonderful. Lived in Vienna for 2 yrs in the early 80's and it's still one of my favorite places. There are lots of neat things to do if one has the time. We also found the Griechenbeisl to be a good place to eat and agree that the wait staff there are very friendly and the desserts are fabulous!

To BettyK, yes, there are several things we didn't get to do/see. Belvedere is one, but also, Vienna would have been a good jump off for a couple of days or a day boat trip, up the Donau Valley. Krems, Melk, etc.<BR>But I have to have a reason to re-visit Vienna. It is a gem of Europe.

Yes, the Wachau Valley is beautiful. We really enjoy going to Durnstein, a pretty little town with an old castle where Richard the Lionhearted was held for ransom. The Richard the Lionhearted Hotel overlooking the river is a great place to have lunch and a glass of wine. <BR><BR>Start making a list for your next visit!