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April in Bavaria

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April in Bavaria

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Old May 13th, 2015, 11:07 AM
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April in Bavaria

We are recently back from a two week trip to Bavaria, flying in/out at the Munich Airport. April is one of the driest months with mostly moderate temps. This is our 4th April trip and it is a good month to visit Germany. Our stops were:

Augsburg
Würzburg
Nürnberg
Kulmbach
Regensburg
Freising

I will be covering them in following posts.

We travelled by train. This is our 11th trip in 10 years, all by train. It is part of the experience for us. We lived in Germany for 6 years and owned a car. That is a great way to travel as well. I wish that I liked flying as well. Delta gave us good service but the long inactivity is tough on an old body.
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Old May 13th, 2015, 11:38 AM
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Our first stop was Augsburg.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Other-3...9028256_Pdg4K6

I had not been to Augsburg for over 40 years. This was my wife's first visit. She went to the college for 2 years in Munich, so the general feel of the area was not new to her.

I am almost 70 and she is vastly younger (true). We are both avid walkers though she proved to be the stronger on this trip. She almost walked me into the ground in Augsburg. I was so thankful that her feet began to hurt a bit later in the trip. Augsburg is very pedestrian friendly, most sights being easily available on foot.

We stayed at the Ibis Königsplatz. It is a basic hotel near the train station and the town center. It served us well.

Our favorite meal was at the Markt Gästette, at the town vegetable market. They close at ~4PM with the market. They serve Augustiner beer on tap

My favorite site was the Cathedral grounds and nearby city park. It included Roman ruins and artifacts.

My wife really enjoyed the Golden Room in the city hall. Augsburg was obviously prosperous.

The Fuggerei low income housing was very interesting. It is worth researching before you visit. The rent was mainly prayers spoken for the Fugger family.

There is an interesting custom in Augsburg. Folks sit on the cobble stone ground of the main square for picnics and socializing. There is picture in my photos. The square must be cleaned regularly.

Perhaps we best enjoyed just walking the neighborhoods, both day and evening. It was nice to enjoy such a pleasant walking town after the long flight.
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Old May 13th, 2015, 12:33 PM
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On to Würzburg. I was stationed in Würzburg in the 1970's, before I met my wife. She was coincidently going to the U of Maryland extension in Munich. It is most like going home for me.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Other-3...9029618_w8284H

Typically, our favorite sights in Würzburg are the Residenz and the Marienberg Festung (fortress) across the river. This time we decided to visit the pilgrimage chapel (Käppele) across the river. It is a climb thru the 14 Stages of the Cross, which are often portrayed in German catholic churches. Each stage had its own building in this garden. They were very formal and well done, but lacked emotional impact for this clod. It was worth the walk. Great views of the town and the fortress along the way.

Another unusual stop for us was at a Juliusspital Klinik to have 6 stitches placed atop my head. It is better to taste test the hospital restaurant's food and wine. Still the friendly professionalism of the ambulance and clinic staff made this accident a good overall experience. Take my word for it; you don't need to try it yourself.

I spent the rest of the trip with a horrendous bandaid on my head. The doctor pointed out one good point: With my receding hairline, I did not have to have my head shaved to get the work done. He pointed to his own receding hairline when he made the witticism.

We stayed at the Sankt Josef, not too far from the train station and the pedestrian zone. I have stayed there several times. I really like the couple that runs it.

Our best meals were at the MarktBärbl, see photos.
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Old May 13th, 2015, 04:28 PM
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Nürnberg up next. We were stationed in Nürnberg in the mid 80's. Our first day there was our daughter's first birthday. We have returned several times. This time we expected to meet friends but plans were foiled. We decided to make a day trip to Bad Windsheim to see the Fränkisches Freilandmuseum.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Other-3...9030329_62Pp3t

It was beautiful spring day. The train trip went well. My wife liked the museum. I enjoyed the town more. Time well spent.

We stayed at the Ibis Altstadt. Hotel was fine. We paid for the hotel breakfast. Next time, we will get breakfast at the nearby Der Berg Cafe. We had supper at the Goldenes Posthorn. I like their Stadtwurst served cold with dark bread and a side salad. The waiters always question if I really want the cold version. For myself, I think it goes great with beer or wine.
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Old May 13th, 2015, 05:05 PM
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Kulmbach was new to both my wife and I.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Other-3...9030764_cFZgvh

We have had good luck visiting places identified as "Besonders sehenswertes" (very worth seeing) in the ADAC StraßenAtlas but unmentioned in English language tourist guides. Of course the atlas only has to highlight the name, not write a section on it.

We went to visit the Plassenburg Fortress. The whole town was a pleasure. Several attractive buildings from different eras.

We walked up to the castle and down again. The way was steep and challenged my knees. There is a shuttle bus.

While at the castle, we visited the area history museum and it was okay. They had a special exhibit on witches, vampires, werewolves, etc.

We also visited the Tin Figure museum. There were 5 floors of diorama like exhibits. Some were very good. So many were overwhelming. We stopped at 3 floors but still enjoyed this unique museum.

We stayed at the Weißes Ross. Nice folks, good breakfast & decent room for a reasonable price. It was right on the main square.

We had a couple good meals at the Alte Feuerwache and von Petz.

There was a chocolate store named for my wife, Esther, next door to the hotel. Great but they were a bit too proud of the liquor content.

I like a lot of popular tourist destinations but it is nice visit a place like Kulmbach as well. We will likely not go back but were glad that we got to see it once.
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Old May 13th, 2015, 07:15 PM
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Nice trip, Gary. So many delightful towns in Germany.
I may have to add Augsburg to a future trip as we often pass through / stop in Munich.
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Old May 13th, 2015, 08:20 PM
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Great report. Thanks
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Old May 13th, 2015, 09:08 PM
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Thanks for posting your trip report, Gary_Mc! I enjoyed walking with you on your visits.

I really love Augsburg -- I think it's prettier than Munich and don't know why more tourists don't stay there instead. Lovely town.

Thanks again!

s
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Old May 14th, 2015, 07:37 AM
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I enjoyed your trip report. I've been to some of the places you mentioned, e.g., Augsburg, Nürnberg and Würzburg. Also Regensburg. They are among my favorite cities in Germany--in all of Europe, for that matter.
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Old May 14th, 2015, 07:51 AM
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Thanks everyone for your comments. Augsburg was definitely the best new stop for us this year. Plenty of tourist sights in a town that clearly has other interests.

Our last 2 night stop was in Regensburg. Our train trip from Kulmbach was on a day when a train driver strike was due to start at 2 PM. The link between Nürnberg and Munich was to dead-end at Landshut. Luckily, our stop was north of Landshut. The train was nearly empty. Then there was a delay as the engine malfunctioned just south of Nürnberg. Most of those on the train got off. We did not know if the train would turn into a pumpkin at 2 or not. We stuck it out and made it to Regensburg.

Regensburg is probably our favorite stop in Germany. Every year we find new things to see. My pictures are so limited as I already have so many.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Other-3...9031654_zjDSKt

I introduced my wife to the Ostdeutsch Kunst Forum art museum west of the Altstadt in the green belt. She introduced me to the UNESCO World Cultural Museum in the Steinerne Brücke bridge tower, covering Regensburg's history. We visited our usual sights to include the cathedral, the Roman Gate, St. Emmeram, the Scottish church, etc. We also visited the Niedermünster for the first time. The are as many churches as days in the year in Regensburg, covering many different eras of architecture.

It was getting late in the trip so my wife had to stop for Spaghetti Eis a couple times. It is strawberry sundae that looks like a plate of spaghetti, her favorite.

We stayed at the Hotel Weidenhof for the 4th or 5th time. Decent room and a good breakfast. The desk is manned 24 hours by very helpful folks.

We had good meals at PamPam Pizza and the Ratskeller. It was a return visit to the Ratskeller. We last ate there about 28 years ago. Our daughter was 2. She was used to the German Gasthaus tradition of saying hello and goodbye (Auf Wiedersehen) as you entered and left a Gasthaus. At the Ratskeller that day an elderly couple got up and silently headed to the door. Once the reached the door, she call out "Bye,Bye" to them across a quiet room. The man returned to our table, bowed slightly, tipped his hat and told our daughter, "Bye,Bye". She was quite pleased with herself.
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Old May 14th, 2015, 09:16 AM
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Our last one night stop was in Freising, nearer the Munich airport than Munich itself. We always enjoy our low keyed stops there.

http://mcchelsea.smugmug.com/Other-3...9031965_n24rGv

The small town is criss crossed with water ways. It has the Domberg (cathedral on the hill) where the last pope was ordained. It has the Weihenstephan brewery/school - also on a hill - with beautiful gardens and a view of the surrounding area. We enjoyed a walk up to visit the brewery gardens this year.

We stay at the Bayerischerhof Hotel, which has been upgraded over the last few years. Good size rooms with a bit of luxury and good breakfast spread. It is a 10 minute walk to the train station where you can catch a shuttle bus or a taxi to the airport. About a 15 minute drive.

We really enjoy the Weissbräu Huber for good Gasthaus atmosphere and food as a farewell to Germany.

http://www.huberweisse.de

Even coming home with stitches in my head, the trip was a success. My wife's devotion to her fitness walking device the last several months paid off on this trip. I may have to up my game. We interacted with a lot of good folks. My wife had a nice shopping spree at a closing Kaufhaus Galeria in Augsburg. I treated my taste for simple white wines. We ate like pigs and came home about the same weight for all the walking. We have started planning for next year.

Thanks for your patience. Gary
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Old May 14th, 2015, 01:17 PM
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Just lovely Gary. Don't have to travel far or see the 'big' sights to have a great holiday.
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Old May 14th, 2015, 01:37 PM
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Thanks Adelaiden. We visit Rothenburg, Munich, Salzburg, Vienna, etc. However, we like to add a few less well known places. Sometimes they are the highlights of the trip.
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Old May 16th, 2015, 12:14 PM
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Enjoyed reading about your trip. May I suggest next time you venture a little farther from Wurzburg to Wertheim am Main. We were stationed there a long time ago but love to return. It is interesting in that half the town is in Bavaria and half in Baden. There is a castle overlooking the Main. Many interesting shops on the winding streets. The town is also known for glassblowing. Not too far away is a charming town, Miltenburg. River cruises often stop here. (We got a parking ticket here last year!)
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Old May 16th, 2015, 04:56 PM
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Thanks for the recommendation Butler. I visited Miltenberg and Wertheim in the 1970's. I only barely remember them. I travel by train now and think that they might be nice to visit on a trip between Stuttgart and Würzburg.
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