Amsterdam Trip Report
Aug 9th, 2008, 06:16 PM
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Amsterdam Trip Report
About us: We're in our late 30s/early 40s. I'm the trip planner and DH goes along for the ride. I don't care much for museums, we both like gardens and enjoy good food.
Why Amsterdam: cheapest airfare for a city in western Europe that we had not been to and we didn't want to rent a car, so we wanted a city that had good public transportation.
When: August 2-8, 2008
Day 1 - Arrival, Gay Pride & Rick Steeves Encounter: Arrived in Amsterdam at 6:30am on Saturday morning after a good overnight flight (no crying children and individual inflight entertainment yahoo!). Breezed through customs and easily purchased train tickets. Arrived at Centraal Station around 7:30 am. Got a little bit lost trying to find Mae's B&B (the apartment is right next to the B&B) as the sign is only a 2x3 in plaque on the door of the building. We stayed at the Herenstraat Apartments (http://www.herenstraat.com/). This was our first experience with a weekly apartment rental and I'm convinced this is the way to go. The Herenstraat apt was fantastic. A great location, very clean and they allowed us to check in at 8am on Saturday morning. It had a very well equipped kitchen and although we only really used it for breakfast, I loved having a refrigerator for cold water bottles, snacks etc. The availability of a washer and dryer made it so much easier to pack light too (this coming from a girl who packed a full size iron on my first trip to Europe. I've since reformed)
We took at short nap and then attended the annual Gay Pride canal parade. This is a huge event in Amsterdam, they estimate that a half millon people surround the Prinsengracht canal to watch the floats. What a kick! We watched for about 2 hours, I think it probably ran another 1/2 hour or so. Next we wandered over to the Noordermarket, which is an organic market on Saturdays. Bought some beautiful blackberries. Also found and Albert Heijn, which is a popular grocery store and bought a few items for the apartment.
Saturday night dinner was at Noordwest. I had a shrimp pasta and husband had a tarte tartin, both of which were very good. Topped it off with a fabulous piece of lemon pie. Total bill with tip was around 50 euro. I would recommend this restaurant.
Our apartment was situated above Top Thai so as DH was trying to navigate the lock upon our return from dinner, two men pulled up on bikes to peruse the Top Thai menu. I was kind of standing in the way, so I turned around to apologize and immediately recoginze the person I'm apologizing to as Rick Steeves. I very smoothly blurt out "oh my god, you're Rick Steeves!". He laughed and we exchanged a few pleasantries. He was very nice. DH made fun of me the rest of the night, as you would have thought that I ran into George Clooney...I told him I couldn't wait to tell the people on Fodors. Nobody else I know would even know who we he is.....
I'll continue with the rest tomorrow. The remainder of the days will be shorter, I promise.
Why Amsterdam: cheapest airfare for a city in western Europe that we had not been to and we didn't want to rent a car, so we wanted a city that had good public transportation.
When: August 2-8, 2008
Day 1 - Arrival, Gay Pride & Rick Steeves Encounter: Arrived in Amsterdam at 6:30am on Saturday morning after a good overnight flight (no crying children and individual inflight entertainment yahoo!). Breezed through customs and easily purchased train tickets. Arrived at Centraal Station around 7:30 am. Got a little bit lost trying to find Mae's B&B (the apartment is right next to the B&B) as the sign is only a 2x3 in plaque on the door of the building. We stayed at the Herenstraat Apartments (http://www.herenstraat.com/). This was our first experience with a weekly apartment rental and I'm convinced this is the way to go. The Herenstraat apt was fantastic. A great location, very clean and they allowed us to check in at 8am on Saturday morning. It had a very well equipped kitchen and although we only really used it for breakfast, I loved having a refrigerator for cold water bottles, snacks etc. The availability of a washer and dryer made it so much easier to pack light too (this coming from a girl who packed a full size iron on my first trip to Europe. I've since reformed)
We took at short nap and then attended the annual Gay Pride canal parade. This is a huge event in Amsterdam, they estimate that a half millon people surround the Prinsengracht canal to watch the floats. What a kick! We watched for about 2 hours, I think it probably ran another 1/2 hour or so. Next we wandered over to the Noordermarket, which is an organic market on Saturdays. Bought some beautiful blackberries. Also found and Albert Heijn, which is a popular grocery store and bought a few items for the apartment.
Saturday night dinner was at Noordwest. I had a shrimp pasta and husband had a tarte tartin, both of which were very good. Topped it off with a fabulous piece of lemon pie. Total bill with tip was around 50 euro. I would recommend this restaurant.
Our apartment was situated above Top Thai so as DH was trying to navigate the lock upon our return from dinner, two men pulled up on bikes to peruse the Top Thai menu. I was kind of standing in the way, so I turned around to apologize and immediately recoginze the person I'm apologizing to as Rick Steeves. I very smoothly blurt out "oh my god, you're Rick Steeves!". He laughed and we exchanged a few pleasantries. He was very nice. DH made fun of me the rest of the night, as you would have thought that I ran into George Clooney...I told him I couldn't wait to tell the people on Fodors. Nobody else I know would even know who we he is.....
I'll continue with the rest tomorrow. The remainder of the days will be shorter, I promise.
Aug 9th, 2008, 07:23 PM
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I bumped into Rick Steves in May 2006 while arriving into Varenna by train. I blabbered a bit and my friend, who had never heard of him, kept backing away as if saying, "I'm not with her." It was a bit like meeting a celebrity. Once in Varenna we saw him a couple of times, and people kept walking up to him telling him that he was the reason they chose Varenna, just like I did. He has definitely given up his privacy as he is recognized wherever he goes.
Looking forward to reading more of your trip to Amsterdam.
Looking forward to reading more of your trip to Amsterdam.
Aug 10th, 2008, 05:05 AM
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Day 2 - The Lost Day: On Sunday, we slept in until about 9am which seems like a crime when you're 5000 miles from home, but it is vacation and as far as we could tell not much happens in Amsterdam any day of the week before 10 am. Ate a leisurely breakfast at the apt and by the time we were ready to head out it had started raining. Undeterred, we grabbed our umbrellas and headed out to just walk and "get our bearings". Generally, we navigate pretty well, but long story short, we got totally lost. Off the map lost. We ended up in a wooded area in Amstel at a small general store for campers. The lady who worked there didn't speak english, but she summoned her husband from the back and he gave us directions back to a main road where we could have caught the tram, but at that point we were just stubbon and walked the rest of the way home. Upon our return home to the states I used Google maps & Google satellite to retrace our steps, figure out where we were and where we went wrong. We were five miles from our apartment, way out of the city center. So basically we spend 5 1/2 hours just walking...which is much more fun when you know where you are. After a sandwich at a coffee shop, we headed home where I took a long nap. Dinner was carry out from Top Thai. They screwed up the order, but it was fine. And then naturally because I had napped and I was agitated about the lost day, I could not sleep. The mosquitos didn't help either...it was not hot, but warm enought that you wanted the windows open. They don't have screens, so the mosquitos do come in. I woke up covered with mosquito bites, but determined to make to make it a better day.
Day 3 Museums: On Monday we walked down to the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh musuems. Bought the museum pass @ 40 euro each which is good for 400 museums in the Netherlands for the period of one year. The Rijksmuseum is under renovation so the collection on display was very small (or at least it seemed like it). Since I'm not really a museum person, I wasn't sure whether to feel like I got jipped or relieved that I didn't have to spend a half a day yawning inside a dark museum. Next we headed to the Van Gogh museum where we avoided an incredibly long line by having the museum pass. I did enjoy this museum, the way they presented his work in a chronological fashion so you could see how his style evolved. Lunch was at a small cafe close to the museums where I had my first savory pancake. Yummy. After lunch we went to the House of Bols. I think they describe it as an "experience" not really a museum, that covers the history of Lucas Bols, who founded a genever distillery in Amsterdam in 1575 and still produces Bols liquers and genevers (gin) today. You take a short tour and then pick out a drink recipe and they make you a cocktail at the end, as well as letting you taste any of the liqueuers or genevers. The hope is that you'll buy some on the way out the door. I think it cost 10 euro each, and we had fun with it, so I'd say it was worth it. We walked back home and then had some pizza that night. Overall, a good day. More to come....
Day 3 Museums: On Monday we walked down to the Rijksmuseum and Van Gogh musuems. Bought the museum pass @ 40 euro each which is good for 400 museums in the Netherlands for the period of one year. The Rijksmuseum is under renovation so the collection on display was very small (or at least it seemed like it). Since I'm not really a museum person, I wasn't sure whether to feel like I got jipped or relieved that I didn't have to spend a half a day yawning inside a dark museum. Next we headed to the Van Gogh museum where we avoided an incredibly long line by having the museum pass. I did enjoy this museum, the way they presented his work in a chronological fashion so you could see how his style evolved. Lunch was at a small cafe close to the museums where I had my first savory pancake. Yummy. After lunch we went to the House of Bols. I think they describe it as an "experience" not really a museum, that covers the history of Lucas Bols, who founded a genever distillery in Amsterdam in 1575 and still produces Bols liquers and genevers (gin) today. You take a short tour and then pick out a drink recipe and they make you a cocktail at the end, as well as letting you taste any of the liqueuers or genevers. The hope is that you'll buy some on the way out the door. I think it cost 10 euro each, and we had fun with it, so I'd say it was worth it. We walked back home and then had some pizza that night. Overall, a good day. More to come....
Aug 10th, 2008, 11:57 AM
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Day 4 - de Hortus Botanicus, Niewe Kirk & Canal Boat Tour: We arrived in Dam Square around 8:30 hoping to sit at the cafe for a while and have a light breakfast. But as I mentioned before, not a lot happening in the early morning in Amsterdam and the sidewalk cafe wasn't even open. So grabbed a cup of coffee to go and got the pleasure of taking unobstructed pictures in Dam Square 
We then walked down to the Amsterdam Botanical Center, which turned out to be a big disappointment. The butterfly greenhouse was ok, but it didn't really have any unique exibits or even seem to be that well maintained. So we headed back north to the Niewue Kerk to see the Black is Beautiful art exhibition. The museum pass allowed us a discounted entry. This was a neat exhibition, it showed how black people have been portrayed in Dutch art since the 1500s. Lunch at the famous Pancake Bakery, very good but very small and crowded. After lunch we bought tickets for the Hop on Hop Off Canal Boat tour across from the Anne Frank Museum. I thought it was quite expensive at 18 euro each and the boats didn't seem to run on time at all. And when they did arrive, sometimes only a few people would hop off, so only a few peopel could hope on, thus resulting in another 45 minute wait for the next boat. When we finally got on the boat, it took us down to the Rijksmuseum where we all had to get off for some reason and wait for the next boat to keep the tour going. We got off at the stop closest to the Van Loon museum only to find it closed on Tuesdays. So we waited for the next canal boat, took it back to the Leidesplein where we got off at the American Hotel where we had drinks & appetizers and people watched for a while. That night we had dinner at Seasons, also on Herenstraat. Complete with a begging cockerspaniel, it was a nice dinner @ 46 euro.
We then walked down to the Amsterdam Botanical Center, which turned out to be a big disappointment. The butterfly greenhouse was ok, but it didn't really have any unique exibits or even seem to be that well maintained. So we headed back north to the Niewue Kerk to see the Black is Beautiful art exhibition. The museum pass allowed us a discounted entry. This was a neat exhibition, it showed how black people have been portrayed in Dutch art since the 1500s. Lunch at the famous Pancake Bakery, very good but very small and crowded. After lunch we bought tickets for the Hop on Hop Off Canal Boat tour across from the Anne Frank Museum. I thought it was quite expensive at 18 euro each and the boats didn't seem to run on time at all. And when they did arrive, sometimes only a few people would hop off, so only a few peopel could hope on, thus resulting in another 45 minute wait for the next boat. When we finally got on the boat, it took us down to the Rijksmuseum where we all had to get off for some reason and wait for the next boat to keep the tour going. We got off at the stop closest to the Van Loon museum only to find it closed on Tuesdays. So we waited for the next canal boat, took it back to the Leidesplein where we got off at the American Hotel where we had drinks & appetizers and people watched for a while. That night we had dinner at Seasons, also on Herenstraat. Complete with a begging cockerspaniel, it was a nice dinner @ 46 euro.
Aug 10th, 2008, 12:59 PM
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Day 5 Paleis Het Loo - Took the train to Apeldorn to go to Paleis Het Loo, the summer palace of the House of Orange. In particular, we were interested in the formal gardens, which have been restored based upon the original 17th centry designs. We were not disappointed, they were spectacular. You are allowed to go up on the roof of the palace to view them. The entry to the palace was also covered by the museum pass. I would have liked to explore Apeldorn further, but we were tired so we headed back to Amsterdam after a late lunch on the palace grounds.
The city was alive that evening, I think due to the fabulous weather. Everybody was outside. We dined at LaScarpetta, also on Herenstraat. This was the best meal of our trip. DH had a steak with a marsala wine sauce and asparagus (he said he wanted to lick the plate), I had ravioli. With appetizer and wine, the total came to 59 euro. It was even complete with entertainment as we watched the head waiter and the chef feud and the one eyed cat who thought he owned the restaurant.
The city was alive that evening, I think due to the fabulous weather. Everybody was outside. We dined at LaScarpetta, also on Herenstraat. This was the best meal of our trip. DH had a steak with a marsala wine sauce and asparagus (he said he wanted to lick the plate), I had ravioli. With appetizer and wine, the total came to 59 euro. It was even complete with entertainment as we watched the head waiter and the chef feud and the one eyed cat who thought he owned the restaurant.
Aug 10th, 2008, 01:09 PM
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Day 6 Oude Kerk, Museum Van Loon: Had hoped to bike in the Vondelpark on Thursday, but the weather decided otherwise as it rained all day. So went to the Tulip Museum shop (didn't do the museum as it seemed to be a front for the shop)and purchased 3 bags of tulips. They didn't have a US customs sticker, but the store attendant told us just to not declare them and we would be fine. I went ahead and bought them, but decided to declare because I didn't want to risk missing our connection in Detriot and as expected, they were confiscated. Bad judgement on my part to even buy them. From the tulip musuem we headed to the Oude Kerk. It's undergoing some restoration, but still some interesting stuff to see. Also got a taste of the Red Light District. Granted, I'm sure the A team wasn't on display by mid-morning, but we felt like we got enough of a taste and decided to forego the Red Light tour we had planned for that evening. Had a long lunch at an outdoor cafe (under the awning) and then made our way down to the Musem Van Loon. Van Loon was one of the founders of the Dutch East India trading company. The most intersting part was the video in the basement of his grandson talking about the house, otherwise not a whole lot to see. But it was free with the museum pass...in retrospect we probably should have gone to the Amsterdam Historical Museum as it was in the same area.
Dinner that evening was at deRiguer, as recommended by others on this site. DH had lamb and I had steak, but I made him trade with me. Another fine meal, with wine, it was 46 euro. Note, they don't take credit cards.
Day 7 - headed home!
Summary - This was a fabulous trip. I found Amsterdam to be a clean, safe and interesting city. Other than a clerk at the grocery store who tried to short me change and the people who work the information desk at the Centraal Station, I found everyone genuinely friendly. Although they had fantastic public transportation, it was a very walkable city.
Dinner that evening was at deRiguer, as recommended by others on this site. DH had lamb and I had steak, but I made him trade with me. Another fine meal, with wine, it was 46 euro. Note, they don't take credit cards.
Day 7 - headed home!
Summary - This was a fabulous trip. I found Amsterdam to be a clean, safe and interesting city. Other than a clerk at the grocery store who tried to short me change and the people who work the information desk at the Centraal Station, I found everyone genuinely friendly. Although they had fantastic public transportation, it was a very walkable city.
Aug 11th, 2008, 10:55 AM
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sferguso, Thanks for the trip report. I am trying to make up my mind on my next trip and can't decide to go to A'dam and Belguium in 2009 or wait for that darn Rijksmuseum to open in 2010. [They keep slipping the date!]
I went to the site for the apartment and it looked really nice. do you mind saying what your weekly rate was? They are listing a monthly rate only.
thanks....lynda
I went to the site for the apartment and it looked really nice. do you mind saying what your weekly rate was? They are listing a monthly rate only.
thanks....lynda
Aug 11th, 2008, 11:25 AM
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Enjoyed your report - Amsterdam is such a great city. We stayed at Mae's in May, great location. Just FYI for next time, it may have been that you could get a "bug zapper" for the apartment. We were in the Canal House one time when the temps got high and they gave us some little gizmo to plug in that would take care of the mosquitos.
We had a Rick Steves moment in Arles several years ago. He was extremely pleasant, signed "his book" for me and also snapped a pic.
That night I dreamed that he wanted me to be a travel consultant for his books! I wish!
We had a Rick Steves moment in Arles several years ago. He was extremely pleasant, signed "his book" for me and also snapped a pic.
That night I dreamed that he wanted me to be a travel consultant for his books! I wish!
Aug 20th, 2008, 05:00 PM
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Thanks for the trip report, sferguso. Amsterdam is probably our favorite city to spend time in.
Every time we plan a trip to Amsterdam we talk about visiting the Hortus Botanicus, but somehow never make it there. It sounds like we're not really missing too much.
Robyn>-
Every time we plan a trip to Amsterdam we talk about visiting the Hortus Botanicus, but somehow never make it there. It sounds like we're not really missing too much.
Robyn
>-
Aug 20th, 2008, 09:49 PM
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I enjoyed your report and am glad you enjoyed Het Loo in Apeldoorn.
You say someone tried to short change you - how? Was it not just because we round prices up or down to the nearest 5 cents here and don't use the one and two cents coins?
Hortus Botanicus has been suffering from lack of funds for years now sadly. The one in Utrecht is better (so you know for next time
).
You say someone tried to short change you - how? Was it not just because we round prices up or down to the nearest 5 cents here and don't use the one and two cents coins?
Hortus Botanicus has been suffering from lack of funds for years now sadly. The one in Utrecht is better (so you know for next time
).
Aug 24th, 2008, 02:46 PM
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It was a clerk at Albert Heijn that short changed me...he mumbled the total and then made the change really fast. It wasn't until I was out the door I realized he had done so by 10 euro. That was enough to make me go back in...I nicely confronted him and so he went to the customer service area and checked a computer and then agreed that he had given the incorrect change. I don't think the computer told him anything...he knew he ripped me off, apologized and gave me my 10 euro.
