Alps and a Big Lake
Jul 26th, 2010, 06:04 PM
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Alps and a Big Lake
Switzerland
aka, Confoederatio Helvetica—thus, the abbreviation "CH”
General information
www.myswitzerland.com Plan itineraries; search hotels, events and restaurants by location; see maps; order or download brochures, etc
http://www.switzerland.isyours.com/e/index.html photos, religion, banks, homes, attractions, all by city or town; also good for historical information
Good phone and internet info http://www.frommers.com/destinations...244028803.html
Shopping in Switzerland: Small shops are usually open Monday through Friday from about 8am to noon or so, and 1:30 to 6:30pm, and on Saturdays from about 9am to 4pm (sometimes closing earlier). Some cities have "Abend-Verkauf" - "evening shopping.” when shops stay open to 9pm or so on one evening per week. In many resort towns, shops open seven days a week, including grocery stores, sport shops etc. Shopping centers are open 7 days a week, from approximately 8am to 8pm.
Post offices in large cities are open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to noon and 2 to 6pm, and on Saturday from 7:30 to 11am.
Rest rooms: Depending on the part of Switzerland you are visiting, public restrooms may be WC (water closet), Toiletten, toilettes, or gabinetti. Women's rooms may be identified as "Damen" or "Frauen," "Signore" or "Donne," "Femmes" or "Dames;" and men's rooms may be labeled "Herren" or "Männer," "Signori" or "Uomini," "Hommes" or "Messieurs." Most public restrooms are not free.
Restaurants:
More and more restaurants are opening on Sundays; often Monday is the day when restaurants are closed.
Tipping: A 15% service charge is included in all hotel and restaurant bills, although some people leave an additional tip for exceptional service. For taxis, a tip is usually included in the charges (a notice will be posted in the cab).
Compare travel and medical insurance plans: www.squaremouth.com which I found easier to use than www.insuremytrip.com
Swiss Train information:
www.sbb.ch. Swiss train information: click at the top on “en’ for English. However, I found the website http://www.deutschebahn.com , which works for all European trains, much easier to use for schedules, though it was not as good for providing information on Swiss train passes.
www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en can help you price rail passes vs individual tickets, lots of great travel info, purchase tickets.
www.raileurope.com fantastic for planning train travel itineraries, and for comparing advantages of train passes
For an explanation of train pass options, see http://www.frommers.com/destinations...244020156.html
The Swiss Travel system offers Fly Rail Baggage service. When checking in for your flight at any airport world-wide, specify the Swiss railway station that you will be traveling to, as the destination for your baggage.
For my trip, I checked my bag at JFK at a special Swiss air desk, just for this luggage service, which cost $15 per bag. Don't tell them, but I would have paid more.
They put a special tag on my suitcase, and of course I got a receipt. They did not weigh my bag. Upon reaching the Zermatt train station at about 2pm on my arrival day, at first my fears were realized when I went to the luggage room and they said they didn't have my bag. They assured me that it would arrive on the 4pm train. I don't know why it didn't arrive on my train, but perhaps it wasn't offloaded from my plane and uploaded to the next train fast enough. Anyway, my hotel cheerfully dispatched a porter to pick up my suitcase from the station at 4pm (Zermatt is very small, it's a 5 minute car ride from the hotel to the train station) and I had it in my hands by 4:15 pm. If it was examined by Swiss Customs, I saw no evidence of it.
Conversely, for return arrangements, check your baggage at the train station you are departing from (this service is not available at all Swiss train stations), and it will be transported by rail to your airplane without you having to handle it further. For more information, see www.rail.ch/baggage or www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en
Seat reservations are not required within Switzerland except on the Swiss portions of some international trains and on some of the special sightseeing trains like the Glacier Express.
To save money and maximize your flexibility, you can take standard regional trains on all scenic routes without a reservation. While the windows are standard (as opposed to panoramic) you can move about as you like. Aside from being cheaper, the chief advantage of the standard train cars is that the windows generally can be opened, for cool air and photos without reflections. Many more Swiss train routes and details are described at ricksteves.com
The difference between the first- and second-class cars is generally that first has wider seats, somewhat more legroom, and fewer passengers. In most train stations, a digital panel on the platforms shows the train’s departure time, destination, and the location of the first and second-class cars of the train—that is, at which section of the platform (divided by signs into sectors A,B, C, etc) you'll find the first- or second-class cars. For example, the first-class cars might be in front of the platform’s sector C when the train stops. The outside of the train cars are also clearly labeled 1 or 2 for the class of car.
I purchased a Swiss Train Flex Pass. On a Flexi Pass, which is good for X number of days, not necessarily consecutive days, you write in the date for that day on the pass before presenting it to a train conductor. Once you have a pass that was approved at a ticket-purchase window, you never have to go to another train ticket window--with the exception of the few tourist trains . A word on the Swiss Flex train pass. Not only did it provide good value for the three separate days I used intercity trains, but it provided for 50% discount on some local travel such as excursion railways and boats. That made it very much worth it. I ended up making an additional daytrip from Vevey to Lausanne; if I'd had a 4-day flex pass, might have saved even more. But that one same-day RT wasn't that expensive.
Tips for taking the train from Geneva to Zermatt --and many thanks to Fodorites for the details given me in advance
Sit on the right hand side of the SBB train for the view of Lake Geneva as you go towards Zermatt. You will need to change trains in Visp or Brig in order to connect to the Matterhorn-Gotthardbahn (railroad to Zermatt.) Brig is where they will all stop, but many also stop in Visp. The disadvantage of changing trains at Brig is that the train backtracks to Visp, making the ride to Zermatt a half-hour longer.
I learned that on trains making many stops, not all the stops will be listed on overhead displays or in public announcements. So the train may be mentioned as the train that stops in Brig, but it is likely to be making many other stops, such as Visp, as well.
Connecting in Brig: go out the front door of the train station, and across the street and in front of the Hotel Victoria is the Matterhorn-Gotthardbahn station. I am told that the Brig train station has a small convenience store, and also a station restaurant.
Connecting in Visp (which is what I did): The platforms for Matterhorn-Gotthardbahn are inside Visp SBB station. Visp station has a Co-op market that's open from early morning to late evening, where you can purchase beverages, sandwiches, and snacks.
Zermatt
http://www.gozermatt.com/zermatt_weather.php mostly commercial but has webcams
www.zermatt.ch activities, accommodations, skiing, etc
weather: Even when the temperature is low, at this altitude the sun can be dangerously strong. Plan on sunscreen and a hat.
Zermatt’s permanent population is about 5500, but it swells to 25,000 or more, during peak seasons. As thrilled as I was to visit Zermatt and see the Matterhorn ( a life-long dream), there's not much else to do in Zermatt unless you are skiing or hiking every day. For mountain-viewing and such, two days are sufficient imo for a visit; three days at most if you take some of the alpine excursions.
Adapted from fodors.com: .
“It was <Englishman> Edward Whymper's spectacular—and catastrophic—conquest of the Matterhorn, on July 14, 1865, that made Zermatt a household word. Whymper stayed at the Hotel Monte Rosa before his departure and there named his party for the historic climb: Michel Croz, a French guide; old Peter Taugwalder and his son, young Peter, local guides; Lord Francis Douglas, a 19-year-old Englishman; Douglas Hadow; the Reverend Charles Hudson; and Whymper himself. They climbed together, pairing "tourists”…with experienced climbers. They camped at 11,000 feet and by 10 AM had reached the base of the mountain's famous hook. Wrote Whymper of the final moments: “The higher we rose the more intense became the excitement. The slope eased off, at length we could be detached, and Croz and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and-neck race, which ended in a dead heat. At 1:40 PM , the world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered!
“Croz pulled off his shirt and tied it to a stick as a flag, one that was seen in Zermatt below. They stayed at the summit one hour, then prepared for the descent, tying themselves together in an order agreed on by all. Croz led, then Hadow, Hudson, Lord Douglas, the elder Taugwalder, then the younger, and Whymper, who lingered to sketch the summit and leave their names in a bottle.
“I suggested to Hudson that we should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and hold it as we descended, as an additional protection. He approved the idea, but it was not definitely decided that it should be done.
“They headed off, "one man moving at a time; when he was firmly planted the next advanced," Whymper recalled. “Croz... was in the act of turning around to go down a step or two himself; at this moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against him, and knocked him over. I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying downward; in another moment Hudson was dragged from his steps, and Lord Douglas immediately after him. All this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz's exclamation, old Peter and I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks would permit; the rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on us both as on one man. We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate companions sliding downward on their backs, and spreading out their hands, endeavoring to save themselves. They passed from our sight uninjured, disappeared one by one, and fell from precipice to precipice on to the Matterhorn glacier below, a distance of nearly 4,000 feet in height. From the moment the rope broke it was impossible to help them. So perished our comrades!”
The body of Lord Douglas was never recovered. The others who died on that descent, plus many more climbers, are buried at the Mountaineers' Cemetery (Bergsteigerfriedhof) which is just behind Zermatt’s St Peter’s Church and across the street from the town cemetery.
Matterhorn Museum
I was underwhelmed by this museum. Much of it consisted of recreated buildings and artifacts from Zermatt’s earlier days. I was more interested in the objects and photos relating to the Matterhorn, but except for the famous broken rope (from the first ascent) there was much less Matterhon and much more Zermatt than I expected.
Dining
Chez Gaby, Kirchstrasse 12
http://www.zumtaugwald.ch/english.html
Outdoor and indoor seating. Casual, pleasant service, moderate prices. I had an excellent salad, followed by delicious veal in a mushroom sauce, and apple strudel for dessert. Recommended.
Seilerhaus Molino. Open from morning through the evening. Bahnhofstrasse, in the heart of town, 3 minutes walk from St Peter’s Church. Extensive Italian menu, purporting to use only authentic ingredients. I can vouch only for the individual pizzas I had, which were thin-crusted, generous, and terrific.
Zermatt hotel Hotel Allalin Kirchstrasse 40.
http://www.hotel-allalin.ch/xml_1/in...on/d15/f42.cfm
The hotel has a convenient location in the heart of town. The train station is a level 10-15 minute walk. Within a 2-5 -minute walk of the hotel are the Church Bridge (over the Vispa river), from which one can take lovely photos of the Matterhorn; a selection of restaurants and cafes; souvenir shops, places to rent equipment for skiing and hiking; pharmacies; the Matterhorn Museum, the Mountaineers’ Cemetery, and St Peter’s Church. The Allalin’s lobby is traditional in décor, one might almost stay Heidi-esque, but comfortable and inviting. An outdoor rear terrace was under construction while I was there. I stayed in room 44, which had twin beds pushed together, a modern bathroom, a balcony, and a straight-on view of the Matterhorn, which I never tired of.
My room’s tub/shower combination had a half-partition (rather than a shower curtain.) Room décor was a bit dated, but very clean and not at all shabby.
There is a small bar and a free computer with internet in the lobby. In the afternoon coffee and tea, and pitchers of juice are offered in the lobby. On each floor of the hotel is a table with a pitcher of water and glasses for self-service. The hotel has an elevator. The breakfast room is down a flight of stairs from the lobby; not sure about elevator access to that level. The included breakfast buffet was simple but generous: breads and rolls, cold cuts, cheeses, juices, cereals, yogurt, fruit, and each day, a special extra item such as quiche or eggs. The staff cheerfully brought coffee or tea to the tables. The front desk staff also were very helpful—providing maps, suggesting excursions and cafes, offering to store luggage, etc.
The hotel has a van and porter to provide pick-ups and drop-offs at the railway station, which by car is less than 10 minutes away. Zermatt does not allow private cars, at least not from visitors—just taxis, commercial vehicles, and the occasional horse-drawn wagon.
The Allalin may not be the fanciest hotel in town, but I’d be surprised if there is another hotel that offers such good value for the price, especially in terms of convenience, hospitality and courtesy.
Excursions in and around Zermatt
Gornergrat -- Gornergrat is perched at 3,099m (10,165 ft.). To get there, you take a cog train, the highest open-air railway in Europe, to its end. Sit on the right side on your way up, for views of the Matterhorn. There are interim stops, such as at Riffelberg, which offers a panoramic view of both the Matterhorn ( approx 14,700 feet high) and Mount Rosa. In my opinion, a trip up to Gornergrat is a must for a Zermatt visitor. The views and photo opportunities are spectacular. A café and restrooms are available.
For logistical info: http://europeforvisitors.com/switzau...rgrat_bahn.htm
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/trav...n-railway.html
Rothorn Paradise – The train leaves Zermatt from a station that is separate from the main train station, about a 10-15 minute walk from the main train station, along the river. To get to Rothorn,you take the cog railway through a tunnel from Zermatt to the meadows of Sunegga, and then transfer twice to cable car routes. At each transfer point, there are opportunites for hiking and of course, for photography.
More info: http://www.zermatt.ch/en/page.cfm/ex...thorn_paradise
http://www.zermatttravelguide.com/to...-paradise.html
While the views from Gornergrat are even better, this excursion was worth it because I wanted every possible opportunity to view the Matterhorn and its neighbors.
On to Lake Geneva:
The lake is 45 miles long, up to 8 miles wide, and 1000 feet at its deepest. It is the largest reservoir of fresh water in Europe
www.cgn.ch ferry and cruise schedules for Lake Leman (Lake Geneva)
Vevey: Hotel Astra
4 Place de la Gare. www.astra-hotel.ch
Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5QSTXEdOY4 The hotel is across the street in one direction from the Vevey train station, and across the street in another direction from the #1 public bus that can take you to all the towns along the "Montreux Riviera." The hotel provides a pass to make that bus free of charge. The lakefront restaurants, ferry landing, and shopping areas are all a 10-minute walk away.
The Astra rooms are modern and convenient, if bland. It is largely a business hotel. The reception staff were all courteous, though not overly forthcoming with many details on restaurants or excursions. Breakfast included in the room rate was a generous buffet, includijng good breads pastries, and rolls, fruit, cold cuts, cheeses, soft boiled eggs, yogurt, and cereals.
My room faced a main street, and there was some traffic noise into the wee hours.
I was annoyed that there is a charge for room wifi, one must buy a card to activate the service. There is also a charge of $12 per 30 minutes, to use the computer in the business center. Given the price of the room, I thought that was nickel-and-diming.
Vevey www.vevey.ch
from www.switzerlandisyours.com “Whereas brassy Montreux, a few kilometres down the road, has over the decades embraced with abandon all that glisters – gold, paper or otherwise – its old-fashioned neighbour Vevey is more discriminating. Vevey quietly cleans its streets, tends its flowerbeds, makes sure it has enough, but not too many, hotels and then waits for visitors of a certain style to find the town for themselves, become enchanted, and stay. It’s a hard place to quantify, neither prim, nor stuffy, nor sophisticated, nor especially graceful … yet it somehow manages to incorporate strands of all of them in an ambience of tasteful, restrained gentility which seeps out of its modest facades. It is enchanting, a world apart (or a remnant of a world now past), and you may well find yourself lulled into staying… Vevey’s train station, on the main line between Lausanne and Montreux, is 300m north of the lakeshore on a busy east–west main road: cross over and head towards the lake on the Rue de Lausanne, and within a minute or two you’ll come to the gigantic central square of Grande-Place, also known as Place du Marché, which fronts directly onto the lake. The Old Town alleys are clustered to the east...
“The tourist offices of Vevey and Montreux have joined forces, meaning that you can get exactly the same information from both on their whole stretch of coast, often dubbed the “Swiss Riviera”. Vevey’s office is in the pillared Grenette building, the old town granary, on Grande-Place.
“To the east, Vevey merges imperceptibly with its neighbour, the colourful port village of La Tour-de-Peilz. Along the way, you’ll pass a photogenic statue of a bowler-hatted <Charlie> Chaplin twirling his cane amidst the roses on the Quai Perdonnet just east of Place du Marché...
Chillon Castle
www.chillon.ch
“This impressive specimen, among the best-preserved medieval castles in Europe, is in Veytaux, only about 3km south of Montreux; whether you opt for the 45-minute shoreline walk, bus #1 from Vevey or Montreux, a bike, or best of all a boat (which run year-round), your first glimpse of the castle is unforgettable – an elegant, turreted pile jutting out into the water, framed by trees and the craggy mountains. You could easily spend a half-day soaking up the atmosphere...First surviving mention of a “guardian of the stronghold of Chillon” dates from 1150.
"In 1530, the Savoyards imprisoned a Genevois scholar, François Bonivard, at Chillon for inciting the Genevois people to form an alliance with the Swiss against Savoy. They left him shackled to a pillar in the dungeons for years, until his release in 1536 when the Bernese army swept down from the north, briefly bombarded the castle from above with their newfangled mobile artillery, and took control...
“In Ouchy <now part of Lausanne>, Lord Byron scribbled out his Prisoner of Chillon, a long narrative poem supposedly spoken by the prisoner Bonivard (but entirely fictitious throughout), which celebrates the cause of individual liberty, and which brought Chillon to the attention of the wealthy tourists who were starting to explore the Alps."
Daytrip to Lausanne from Vevey:
There is very frequent train service, and the train ride was less than a half hour. If you exit the Lausanne train station, there is a metro station directly across the street. The older part of Lausanne was built on steep hills. In order to visit the cathedral, I took the metro toward the direction of Croisettes, and got off at the Bessieres stop. Upon exiting the metro, the cathedral could clearly be seen and it was only a 10-minute walk away. The cathedral, begun in 1170 or so, is a Gothic beauty, and the statuary, architecture, and stained glass was well-worth seeing. There is a great view of Lake Geneva from the terrace surrounding the church
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/s...anne-cathedral
http://www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/view...372&language=E
From the cathedral, it was back to the metro, this time to the terminus of Ouchy, the location of the lakeside activity (restaurants, ferry stop). From the metro, it was a 15-20 minute walk to the Olympics Museum which is set inside a large park. The museum was small, and it didn’t bowl me over. I was expecting more in the way of exhibits, memorabilia, etc. There are some interactive features that kids seemed to enjoy.
My walk to the lakeside center of Ouchy was pleasant, and with time before the ferry that would return me to Vevey, I had a wonderful lunch on the terrace restaurant of the hotel Chateau d’Ouchy, 2 Place du Port, which was a 3-minute walk to the ferry landing.
www.chateaudouchy.ch
My lunch was expensive, 50 Swiss francs without wine, but the food was delicious, generously- portioned, and beautifully presented. This was an elegant alternative to the fast food restaurants that were even closer to the ferry piers.
Schedules may vary, but my ferry ride back from Lausanne to Vevey was one hour.
From the boat, i could see the many acres of vineyards on the hills above the lake.
Dining in Vevey: Hostellerie Geneve
Place du Marche 11 www.hotelgeneve.ch
I had dinner there twice, it's a few steps from the lake front, though not facing the lake.
Both times I enjoyed filets of perch, a lake fish, and I only wish I could find that fish at home--delicately-flavored, simply-prepared, and delicious.
My first trip to Switzerland was a dream come true, and I look forward to a return trip someday.
aka, Confoederatio Helvetica—thus, the abbreviation "CH”
General information
www.myswitzerland.com Plan itineraries; search hotels, events and restaurants by location; see maps; order or download brochures, etc
http://www.switzerland.isyours.com/e/index.html photos, religion, banks, homes, attractions, all by city or town; also good for historical information
Good phone and internet info http://www.frommers.com/destinations...244028803.html
Shopping in Switzerland: Small shops are usually open Monday through Friday from about 8am to noon or so, and 1:30 to 6:30pm, and on Saturdays from about 9am to 4pm (sometimes closing earlier). Some cities have "Abend-Verkauf" - "evening shopping.” when shops stay open to 9pm or so on one evening per week. In many resort towns, shops open seven days a week, including grocery stores, sport shops etc. Shopping centers are open 7 days a week, from approximately 8am to 8pm.
Post offices in large cities are open Monday through Friday from 7:30am to noon and 2 to 6pm, and on Saturday from 7:30 to 11am.
Rest rooms: Depending on the part of Switzerland you are visiting, public restrooms may be WC (water closet), Toiletten, toilettes, or gabinetti. Women's rooms may be identified as "Damen" or "Frauen," "Signore" or "Donne," "Femmes" or "Dames;" and men's rooms may be labeled "Herren" or "Männer," "Signori" or "Uomini," "Hommes" or "Messieurs." Most public restrooms are not free.
Restaurants:
More and more restaurants are opening on Sundays; often Monday is the day when restaurants are closed.
Tipping: A 15% service charge is included in all hotel and restaurant bills, although some people leave an additional tip for exceptional service. For taxis, a tip is usually included in the charges (a notice will be posted in the cab).
Compare travel and medical insurance plans: www.squaremouth.com which I found easier to use than www.insuremytrip.com
Swiss Train information:
www.sbb.ch. Swiss train information: click at the top on “en’ for English. However, I found the website http://www.deutschebahn.com , which works for all European trains, much easier to use for schedules, though it was not as good for providing information on Swiss train passes.
www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en can help you price rail passes vs individual tickets, lots of great travel info, purchase tickets.
www.raileurope.com fantastic for planning train travel itineraries, and for comparing advantages of train passes
For an explanation of train pass options, see http://www.frommers.com/destinations...244020156.html
The Swiss Travel system offers Fly Rail Baggage service. When checking in for your flight at any airport world-wide, specify the Swiss railway station that you will be traveling to, as the destination for your baggage.
For my trip, I checked my bag at JFK at a special Swiss air desk, just for this luggage service, which cost $15 per bag. Don't tell them, but I would have paid more.
They put a special tag on my suitcase, and of course I got a receipt. They did not weigh my bag. Upon reaching the Zermatt train station at about 2pm on my arrival day, at first my fears were realized when I went to the luggage room and they said they didn't have my bag. They assured me that it would arrive on the 4pm train. I don't know why it didn't arrive on my train, but perhaps it wasn't offloaded from my plane and uploaded to the next train fast enough. Anyway, my hotel cheerfully dispatched a porter to pick up my suitcase from the station at 4pm (Zermatt is very small, it's a 5 minute car ride from the hotel to the train station) and I had it in my hands by 4:15 pm. If it was examined by Swiss Customs, I saw no evidence of it.
Conversely, for return arrangements, check your baggage at the train station you are departing from (this service is not available at all Swiss train stations), and it will be transported by rail to your airplane without you having to handle it further. For more information, see www.rail.ch/baggage or www.swisstravelsystem.ch/en
Seat reservations are not required within Switzerland except on the Swiss portions of some international trains and on some of the special sightseeing trains like the Glacier Express.
To save money and maximize your flexibility, you can take standard regional trains on all scenic routes without a reservation. While the windows are standard (as opposed to panoramic) you can move about as you like. Aside from being cheaper, the chief advantage of the standard train cars is that the windows generally can be opened, for cool air and photos without reflections. Many more Swiss train routes and details are described at ricksteves.com
The difference between the first- and second-class cars is generally that first has wider seats, somewhat more legroom, and fewer passengers. In most train stations, a digital panel on the platforms shows the train’s departure time, destination, and the location of the first and second-class cars of the train—that is, at which section of the platform (divided by signs into sectors A,B, C, etc) you'll find the first- or second-class cars. For example, the first-class cars might be in front of the platform’s sector C when the train stops. The outside of the train cars are also clearly labeled 1 or 2 for the class of car.
I purchased a Swiss Train Flex Pass. On a Flexi Pass, which is good for X number of days, not necessarily consecutive days, you write in the date for that day on the pass before presenting it to a train conductor. Once you have a pass that was approved at a ticket-purchase window, you never have to go to another train ticket window--with the exception of the few tourist trains . A word on the Swiss Flex train pass. Not only did it provide good value for the three separate days I used intercity trains, but it provided for 50% discount on some local travel such as excursion railways and boats. That made it very much worth it. I ended up making an additional daytrip from Vevey to Lausanne; if I'd had a 4-day flex pass, might have saved even more. But that one same-day RT wasn't that expensive.
Tips for taking the train from Geneva to Zermatt --and many thanks to Fodorites for the details given me in advance
Sit on the right hand side of the SBB train for the view of Lake Geneva as you go towards Zermatt. You will need to change trains in Visp or Brig in order to connect to the Matterhorn-Gotthardbahn (railroad to Zermatt.) Brig is where they will all stop, but many also stop in Visp. The disadvantage of changing trains at Brig is that the train backtracks to Visp, making the ride to Zermatt a half-hour longer.
I learned that on trains making many stops, not all the stops will be listed on overhead displays or in public announcements. So the train may be mentioned as the train that stops in Brig, but it is likely to be making many other stops, such as Visp, as well.
Connecting in Brig: go out the front door of the train station, and across the street and in front of the Hotel Victoria is the Matterhorn-Gotthardbahn station. I am told that the Brig train station has a small convenience store, and also a station restaurant.
Connecting in Visp (which is what I did): The platforms for Matterhorn-Gotthardbahn are inside Visp SBB station. Visp station has a Co-op market that's open from early morning to late evening, where you can purchase beverages, sandwiches, and snacks.
Zermatt
http://www.gozermatt.com/zermatt_weather.php mostly commercial but has webcams
www.zermatt.ch activities, accommodations, skiing, etc
weather: Even when the temperature is low, at this altitude the sun can be dangerously strong. Plan on sunscreen and a hat.
Zermatt’s permanent population is about 5500, but it swells to 25,000 or more, during peak seasons. As thrilled as I was to visit Zermatt and see the Matterhorn ( a life-long dream), there's not much else to do in Zermatt unless you are skiing or hiking every day. For mountain-viewing and such, two days are sufficient imo for a visit; three days at most if you take some of the alpine excursions.
Adapted from fodors.com: .
“It was <Englishman> Edward Whymper's spectacular—and catastrophic—conquest of the Matterhorn, on July 14, 1865, that made Zermatt a household word. Whymper stayed at the Hotel Monte Rosa before his departure and there named his party for the historic climb: Michel Croz, a French guide; old Peter Taugwalder and his son, young Peter, local guides; Lord Francis Douglas, a 19-year-old Englishman; Douglas Hadow; the Reverend Charles Hudson; and Whymper himself. They climbed together, pairing "tourists”…with experienced climbers. They camped at 11,000 feet and by 10 AM had reached the base of the mountain's famous hook. Wrote Whymper of the final moments: “The higher we rose the more intense became the excitement. The slope eased off, at length we could be detached, and Croz and I, dashing away, ran a neck-and-neck race, which ended in a dead heat. At 1:40 PM , the world was at our feet, and the Matterhorn was conquered!
“Croz pulled off his shirt and tied it to a stick as a flag, one that was seen in Zermatt below. They stayed at the summit one hour, then prepared for the descent, tying themselves together in an order agreed on by all. Croz led, then Hadow, Hudson, Lord Douglas, the elder Taugwalder, then the younger, and Whymper, who lingered to sketch the summit and leave their names in a bottle.
“I suggested to Hudson that we should attach a rope to the rocks on our arrival at the difficult bit, and hold it as we descended, as an additional protection. He approved the idea, but it was not definitely decided that it should be done.
“They headed off, "one man moving at a time; when he was firmly planted the next advanced," Whymper recalled. “Croz... was in the act of turning around to go down a step or two himself; at this moment Mr. Hadow slipped, fell against him, and knocked him over. I heard one startled exclamation from Croz, then saw him and Mr. Hadow flying downward; in another moment Hudson was dragged from his steps, and Lord Douglas immediately after him. All this was the work of a moment. Immediately we heard Croz's exclamation, old Peter and I planted ourselves as firmly as the rocks would permit; the rope was taut between us, and the jerk came on us both as on one man. We held; but the rope broke midway between Taugwalder and Lord Francis Douglas. For a few seconds we saw our unfortunate companions sliding downward on their backs, and spreading out their hands, endeavoring to save themselves. They passed from our sight uninjured, disappeared one by one, and fell from precipice to precipice on to the Matterhorn glacier below, a distance of nearly 4,000 feet in height. From the moment the rope broke it was impossible to help them. So perished our comrades!”
The body of Lord Douglas was never recovered. The others who died on that descent, plus many more climbers, are buried at the Mountaineers' Cemetery (Bergsteigerfriedhof) which is just behind Zermatt’s St Peter’s Church and across the street from the town cemetery.
Matterhorn Museum
I was underwhelmed by this museum. Much of it consisted of recreated buildings and artifacts from Zermatt’s earlier days. I was more interested in the objects and photos relating to the Matterhorn, but except for the famous broken rope (from the first ascent) there was much less Matterhon and much more Zermatt than I expected.
Dining
Chez Gaby, Kirchstrasse 12
http://www.zumtaugwald.ch/english.html
Outdoor and indoor seating. Casual, pleasant service, moderate prices. I had an excellent salad, followed by delicious veal in a mushroom sauce, and apple strudel for dessert. Recommended.
Seilerhaus Molino. Open from morning through the evening. Bahnhofstrasse, in the heart of town, 3 minutes walk from St Peter’s Church. Extensive Italian menu, purporting to use only authentic ingredients. I can vouch only for the individual pizzas I had, which were thin-crusted, generous, and terrific.
Zermatt hotel Hotel Allalin Kirchstrasse 40.
http://www.hotel-allalin.ch/xml_1/in...on/d15/f42.cfm
The hotel has a convenient location in the heart of town. The train station is a level 10-15 minute walk. Within a 2-5 -minute walk of the hotel are the Church Bridge (over the Vispa river), from which one can take lovely photos of the Matterhorn; a selection of restaurants and cafes; souvenir shops, places to rent equipment for skiing and hiking; pharmacies; the Matterhorn Museum, the Mountaineers’ Cemetery, and St Peter’s Church. The Allalin’s lobby is traditional in décor, one might almost stay Heidi-esque, but comfortable and inviting. An outdoor rear terrace was under construction while I was there. I stayed in room 44, which had twin beds pushed together, a modern bathroom, a balcony, and a straight-on view of the Matterhorn, which I never tired of.
My room’s tub/shower combination had a half-partition (rather than a shower curtain.) Room décor was a bit dated, but very clean and not at all shabby.
There is a small bar and a free computer with internet in the lobby. In the afternoon coffee and tea, and pitchers of juice are offered in the lobby. On each floor of the hotel is a table with a pitcher of water and glasses for self-service. The hotel has an elevator. The breakfast room is down a flight of stairs from the lobby; not sure about elevator access to that level. The included breakfast buffet was simple but generous: breads and rolls, cold cuts, cheeses, juices, cereals, yogurt, fruit, and each day, a special extra item such as quiche or eggs. The staff cheerfully brought coffee or tea to the tables. The front desk staff also were very helpful—providing maps, suggesting excursions and cafes, offering to store luggage, etc.
The hotel has a van and porter to provide pick-ups and drop-offs at the railway station, which by car is less than 10 minutes away. Zermatt does not allow private cars, at least not from visitors—just taxis, commercial vehicles, and the occasional horse-drawn wagon.
The Allalin may not be the fanciest hotel in town, but I’d be surprised if there is another hotel that offers such good value for the price, especially in terms of convenience, hospitality and courtesy.
Excursions in and around Zermatt
Gornergrat -- Gornergrat is perched at 3,099m (10,165 ft.). To get there, you take a cog train, the highest open-air railway in Europe, to its end. Sit on the right side on your way up, for views of the Matterhorn. There are interim stops, such as at Riffelberg, which offers a panoramic view of both the Matterhorn ( approx 14,700 feet high) and Mount Rosa. In my opinion, a trip up to Gornergrat is a must for a Zermatt visitor. The views and photo opportunities are spectacular. A café and restrooms are available.
For logistical info: http://europeforvisitors.com/switzau...rgrat_bahn.htm
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/trav...n-railway.html
Rothorn Paradise – The train leaves Zermatt from a station that is separate from the main train station, about a 10-15 minute walk from the main train station, along the river. To get to Rothorn,you take the cog railway through a tunnel from Zermatt to the meadows of Sunegga, and then transfer twice to cable car routes. At each transfer point, there are opportunites for hiking and of course, for photography.
More info: http://www.zermatt.ch/en/page.cfm/ex...thorn_paradise
http://www.zermatttravelguide.com/to...-paradise.html
While the views from Gornergrat are even better, this excursion was worth it because I wanted every possible opportunity to view the Matterhorn and its neighbors.
On to Lake Geneva:
The lake is 45 miles long, up to 8 miles wide, and 1000 feet at its deepest. It is the largest reservoir of fresh water in Europe
www.cgn.ch ferry and cruise schedules for Lake Leman (Lake Geneva)
Vevey: Hotel Astra
4 Place de la Gare. www.astra-hotel.ch
Video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K5QSTXEdOY4 The hotel is across the street in one direction from the Vevey train station, and across the street in another direction from the #1 public bus that can take you to all the towns along the "Montreux Riviera." The hotel provides a pass to make that bus free of charge. The lakefront restaurants, ferry landing, and shopping areas are all a 10-minute walk away.
The Astra rooms are modern and convenient, if bland. It is largely a business hotel. The reception staff were all courteous, though not overly forthcoming with many details on restaurants or excursions. Breakfast included in the room rate was a generous buffet, includijng good breads pastries, and rolls, fruit, cold cuts, cheeses, soft boiled eggs, yogurt, and cereals.
My room faced a main street, and there was some traffic noise into the wee hours.
I was annoyed that there is a charge for room wifi, one must buy a card to activate the service. There is also a charge of $12 per 30 minutes, to use the computer in the business center. Given the price of the room, I thought that was nickel-and-diming.
Vevey www.vevey.ch
from www.switzerlandisyours.com “Whereas brassy Montreux, a few kilometres down the road, has over the decades embraced with abandon all that glisters – gold, paper or otherwise – its old-fashioned neighbour Vevey is more discriminating. Vevey quietly cleans its streets, tends its flowerbeds, makes sure it has enough, but not too many, hotels and then waits for visitors of a certain style to find the town for themselves, become enchanted, and stay. It’s a hard place to quantify, neither prim, nor stuffy, nor sophisticated, nor especially graceful … yet it somehow manages to incorporate strands of all of them in an ambience of tasteful, restrained gentility which seeps out of its modest facades. It is enchanting, a world apart (or a remnant of a world now past), and you may well find yourself lulled into staying… Vevey’s train station, on the main line between Lausanne and Montreux, is 300m north of the lakeshore on a busy east–west main road: cross over and head towards the lake on the Rue de Lausanne, and within a minute or two you’ll come to the gigantic central square of Grande-Place, also known as Place du Marché, which fronts directly onto the lake. The Old Town alleys are clustered to the east...
“The tourist offices of Vevey and Montreux have joined forces, meaning that you can get exactly the same information from both on their whole stretch of coast, often dubbed the “Swiss Riviera”. Vevey’s office is in the pillared Grenette building, the old town granary, on Grande-Place.
“To the east, Vevey merges imperceptibly with its neighbour, the colourful port village of La Tour-de-Peilz. Along the way, you’ll pass a photogenic statue of a bowler-hatted <Charlie> Chaplin twirling his cane amidst the roses on the Quai Perdonnet just east of Place du Marché...
Chillon Castle
www.chillon.ch
“This impressive specimen, among the best-preserved medieval castles in Europe, is in Veytaux, only about 3km south of Montreux; whether you opt for the 45-minute shoreline walk, bus #1 from Vevey or Montreux, a bike, or best of all a boat (which run year-round), your first glimpse of the castle is unforgettable – an elegant, turreted pile jutting out into the water, framed by trees and the craggy mountains. You could easily spend a half-day soaking up the atmosphere...First surviving mention of a “guardian of the stronghold of Chillon” dates from 1150.
"In 1530, the Savoyards imprisoned a Genevois scholar, François Bonivard, at Chillon for inciting the Genevois people to form an alliance with the Swiss against Savoy. They left him shackled to a pillar in the dungeons for years, until his release in 1536 when the Bernese army swept down from the north, briefly bombarded the castle from above with their newfangled mobile artillery, and took control...
“In Ouchy <now part of Lausanne>, Lord Byron scribbled out his Prisoner of Chillon, a long narrative poem supposedly spoken by the prisoner Bonivard (but entirely fictitious throughout), which celebrates the cause of individual liberty, and which brought Chillon to the attention of the wealthy tourists who were starting to explore the Alps."
Daytrip to Lausanne from Vevey:
There is very frequent train service, and the train ride was less than a half hour. If you exit the Lausanne train station, there is a metro station directly across the street. The older part of Lausanne was built on steep hills. In order to visit the cathedral, I took the metro toward the direction of Croisettes, and got off at the Bessieres stop. Upon exiting the metro, the cathedral could clearly be seen and it was only a 10-minute walk away. The cathedral, begun in 1170 or so, is a Gothic beauty, and the statuary, architecture, and stained glass was well-worth seeing. There is a great view of Lake Geneva from the terrace surrounding the church
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/s...anne-cathedral
http://www.lausanne-tourisme.ch/view...372&language=E
From the cathedral, it was back to the metro, this time to the terminus of Ouchy, the location of the lakeside activity (restaurants, ferry stop). From the metro, it was a 15-20 minute walk to the Olympics Museum which is set inside a large park. The museum was small, and it didn’t bowl me over. I was expecting more in the way of exhibits, memorabilia, etc. There are some interactive features that kids seemed to enjoy.
My walk to the lakeside center of Ouchy was pleasant, and with time before the ferry that would return me to Vevey, I had a wonderful lunch on the terrace restaurant of the hotel Chateau d’Ouchy, 2 Place du Port, which was a 3-minute walk to the ferry landing.
www.chateaudouchy.ch
My lunch was expensive, 50 Swiss francs without wine, but the food was delicious, generously- portioned, and beautifully presented. This was an elegant alternative to the fast food restaurants that were even closer to the ferry piers.
Schedules may vary, but my ferry ride back from Lausanne to Vevey was one hour.
From the boat, i could see the many acres of vineyards on the hills above the lake.
Dining in Vevey: Hostellerie Geneve
Place du Marche 11 www.hotelgeneve.ch
I had dinner there twice, it's a few steps from the lake front, though not facing the lake.
Both times I enjoyed filets of perch, a lake fish, and I only wish I could find that fish at home--delicately-flavored, simply-prepared, and delicious.
My first trip to Switzerland was a dream come true, and I look forward to a return trip someday.
Jul 27th, 2010, 04:10 AM
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Hello elaine 
As usual, your report is full of very helpful information.
I was hoping your trip up to the Gornergrat would be a perfect day, and it sounds like it was. The views there are truly breathtaking, so expansive! Definitely a must-do while in Zermatt. It's so nice and modern nowadays, with the elevator and walkways installed. Used to be quite a climb up from the station.
<I>"...a straight-on view of the Matterhorn, which I never tired of."</i>
Ahhh, one never does!
As usual, your report is full of very helpful information.
I was hoping your trip up to the Gornergrat would be a perfect day, and it sounds like it was. The views there are truly breathtaking, so expansive! Definitely a must-do while in Zermatt. It's so nice and modern nowadays, with the elevator and walkways installed. Used to be quite a climb up from the station.
<I>"...a straight-on view of the Matterhorn, which I never tired of."</i>
Ahhh, one never does!
Jul 27th, 2010, 04:50 AM
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Well, now that you KNOW all about that modified railway station in Visp...wasn't it great fun not getting LOST????, etc., etc., it sounds as if you had a great trip and delighted to read the report. I'll actually be in Lausanne in a couple of weeks (traveling from Tuscany) and will undoubtedly think of you as I pass through.
Delighted things worked out and that you enjoyed yourself.
Delighted things worked out and that you enjoyed yourself.
Jul 28th, 2010, 06:22 PM
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