2003 Swiss Trip Report
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2003 Swiss Trip Report
I've used this forum for many trips and received lots of invaluable information, hope this begins to give back some. We returned August 25 from a 2 1/2 week trip beginning in Frankfurt and included 10 nights in Switzerland, along with stops in Annecy and Colmar. This was our first real visit to Switz. and we are now as enthusiastic as everyone else about it.
We were driving and entered the country at Basel heading for Lauterbrunnen and the Berner Oberland. It is interesting experiencing the much more controlled swiss autobahn after barreling down the German highway into Switzerland--slower speeds, much more signage but same good roads. We stopped in Thun on a very warm Sunday and parked to check out the city. My first views of the most uniquely blue water escaping the Thunersee and coursing through the city in a variety of covered sluice gates, channels and chutes. The locals and a few tourists were making fine use of the hot weather and water, jumping off bridges, floating down calm sections, surfing and in some cases doing incredibly spectacular flips and dives off bordering buildings. The city was mostly closed as it was Sunday but we did walk about a bit and checked out the schloss and the companion church on the hill. The arcaded streets of the altstadt had several interesting looking stores which I visited later in the trip.
We made our way around the lake to Lauterbrunnen and found our hotel for the next 4 nights, Hotel Staubbach. It is a very modest place with million dollar views if you can book 4 nights. The room was large and airy, pvt bath and we were delighted to find a large balcony around our corner room. Right away I headed to the TI to purchase a 1 week regional pass which gave us 3 free days of our choosing and 4 days of 1/2 price. Lauterbrunnen was slightly larger than I expected and it gave us plenty of options for dining, quick snacks and groceries as needed. The Staubbach fare was 110 sfr for two per nt and included a decent hearty breakfast.
The Lauterbrunnen Valley was gorgeous and we were blessed with clear and very warm weather-at times too warm. Our first day had us catching the bus to Stechelberg and then the huge gondola to Gimmelwald where we got off to look around and then hike up to Murren--a 1000 ft climb. From there we caught the gondolas up to the Schilthorn to take advantage of the clear weather. Our first real glimpse of the Big Three--Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau--and as everyone says, spectacular along with the rest of the 360 degree views. We didn't stay too long after a quick beer and headed back to Murren which we wandered through and then took the cog tram up to Allmendhubel. From there we hiked the "mountainview trail" to Grutschalp--a 2-2 1/2 hr hike with a 300 ft drop in elevation. Very nice, great views of the mountains, alpine meadows and the everpresent cows with their bells. And it was cooler up high but still comfortable. From Grutschalp we took the cog tram down straight into Lauterbrunnen.
The next day we were up early and headed by train to Wengen on the eastern side of the valley. My wife's foot was bothering her so instead of hiking we decide to explore with the pass and headed up on another gondola to Mannlichen which has pleasant views of the other side where Grindlewald lays. We then took the small gondola buckets on a very long lift down to Grindlewald, where we walked up into the village and found where all the tourists hang out! It was still very warm and we decided to head up to First, another very long lift ride to one of the most picturesque places I've ever seen. The mountains, the glaciers, the alpine meadows, the exhilaration of watching paragliders, hang gliders, hikers and climbers all from the comfort of an outdoor deck complete with food and drinks was overwhelming. We headed down and then caught a train to Wilderswil for what would be a major mistake. We then took a train up to Schynigge Platte which would have been fine except the train is a 1 hour ride one way and by the time we got there it was also the last train back down! So we had about 3 minutes to realize our error and then jump back in to accompany a bunch of revved up Teddyland children on their way back down. Then another train back to Lauterbrunnen--most train passages are very frequent and if not, there's always a cafe to spend time in. We recuperated that night with a very fine dinner at Hotel Silberhorn in Lauterbrunnen--outdoor dining and very nice service and meal.
Our third day found us retracing our steps to Mannlichen and then hiking the very gentle Panorama trail with great views of the north face of the Eiger and the rest. Klein Scheidig was abuzz with tourists on another clear warm day and most were heading up to the Jungfraujoch. We declined and spent some time gazing at the mountain looking for the climbers which had left the day before--didn't see them. But we did see a cow "fly"--actually the cow was in a harness and was picked up by helicopter and flown down into the valley below. Trains back to Wengen and Lauterbrunnen again. We then drove up to Trummelbach Falls and don't miss it! I think it was my wife's favorite of the trip. We capped off the day with a trip up to Murren and a sunset dinner on an outdoor terrace at Hotel Eiger---awesome scenery and good food.
The next day was moving day and we headed for Sigriswil, a tiny village not too far away on the north side of the Thunersee. It was up on the mountain and my wife had business for several days that I could not help with. We spent 4 nights in this very charming village and were hosted most graciously by the town and our business host. I escaped on our first drizzly day and hiked up into both the Ober and Unter glacier--the first is reached by climbing a serious set of stairways made out of logs and split wood over sheer rock and huge boulders. The second was reached by taking the Pfingstegg lift and then hiking to Stieregg, about 1 hour. I wanted to go farther but weather was still threatening and in fact came racing up the glacier valley as I reached Stieregg--amazing sight. The next day I again escaped and made my way to First and hiked to Faulhorn--about 2 1/2 hrs and very worthwhile. I met a caretaker there and he showed me the rooms at the hotel--gives definition to the word rustic. I would love to come back in the winter and sled the 17 km down to Grindlewald. Interesting mix on the deck of the hotel at Faulhorn, both men and women (and some kids) of all nationalities.
After our Sigriswil visit we spent 2 nights in Annecy and then 2 nights in Basel. We stopped on our way to Basel in Gruyeres and were turned off by the very touristy castle and village but did enjoy a visit to nearby Moleson where we watched cheesemaking the old way--open fire, copper kettles, smoky wood shacks and lots of milk. Then on to Broc to visit Cailler and sample the chocolate. Basel was a change of pace for us--the big city. We stayed at Hotel Rochat, near the altstadt and it was fine. Our primary goal was a visit to the Beyerler Foundation and the Puppenhausmuseum which was quite easy with the aid of the free transit pass which came with our hotel room. The Beyerler had a wonderful Klee exhibition as well as regular exhibits and the Puppenhausmuseum was equally fantastic for those inclined to doll and teddys--my wife's interest and business. We chilled out for a while and decided to really challenge ourselves by going to the Kunstmuseum which turned out to be a fabulous "find'. We were really thrilled with the collection of fine art.
Overall impressions were that in spite of expense, you could finess with trips to the Coop and picnicing. Transportation is a major consideration and while a car was handy, you still need to factor in the unique kinds of transport available and necessary. Travelers have use of the most convenient and clean restrooms of anywhere I have ever travelled--even on top of remote mountains! Safety and security is never an issue except in all the various outdoor activities which you're bound to get lured into. We enjoyed our visit immensely and in spite of this long description, there were many, many memorable moments--we look forward to a return. If I can answer a question don't hesitate to ask.
Cheers, Paul
We were driving and entered the country at Basel heading for Lauterbrunnen and the Berner Oberland. It is interesting experiencing the much more controlled swiss autobahn after barreling down the German highway into Switzerland--slower speeds, much more signage but same good roads. We stopped in Thun on a very warm Sunday and parked to check out the city. My first views of the most uniquely blue water escaping the Thunersee and coursing through the city in a variety of covered sluice gates, channels and chutes. The locals and a few tourists were making fine use of the hot weather and water, jumping off bridges, floating down calm sections, surfing and in some cases doing incredibly spectacular flips and dives off bordering buildings. The city was mostly closed as it was Sunday but we did walk about a bit and checked out the schloss and the companion church on the hill. The arcaded streets of the altstadt had several interesting looking stores which I visited later in the trip.
We made our way around the lake to Lauterbrunnen and found our hotel for the next 4 nights, Hotel Staubbach. It is a very modest place with million dollar views if you can book 4 nights. The room was large and airy, pvt bath and we were delighted to find a large balcony around our corner room. Right away I headed to the TI to purchase a 1 week regional pass which gave us 3 free days of our choosing and 4 days of 1/2 price. Lauterbrunnen was slightly larger than I expected and it gave us plenty of options for dining, quick snacks and groceries as needed. The Staubbach fare was 110 sfr for two per nt and included a decent hearty breakfast.
The Lauterbrunnen Valley was gorgeous and we were blessed with clear and very warm weather-at times too warm. Our first day had us catching the bus to Stechelberg and then the huge gondola to Gimmelwald where we got off to look around and then hike up to Murren--a 1000 ft climb. From there we caught the gondolas up to the Schilthorn to take advantage of the clear weather. Our first real glimpse of the Big Three--Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau--and as everyone says, spectacular along with the rest of the 360 degree views. We didn't stay too long after a quick beer and headed back to Murren which we wandered through and then took the cog tram up to Allmendhubel. From there we hiked the "mountainview trail" to Grutschalp--a 2-2 1/2 hr hike with a 300 ft drop in elevation. Very nice, great views of the mountains, alpine meadows and the everpresent cows with their bells. And it was cooler up high but still comfortable. From Grutschalp we took the cog tram down straight into Lauterbrunnen.
The next day we were up early and headed by train to Wengen on the eastern side of the valley. My wife's foot was bothering her so instead of hiking we decide to explore with the pass and headed up on another gondola to Mannlichen which has pleasant views of the other side where Grindlewald lays. We then took the small gondola buckets on a very long lift down to Grindlewald, where we walked up into the village and found where all the tourists hang out! It was still very warm and we decided to head up to First, another very long lift ride to one of the most picturesque places I've ever seen. The mountains, the glaciers, the alpine meadows, the exhilaration of watching paragliders, hang gliders, hikers and climbers all from the comfort of an outdoor deck complete with food and drinks was overwhelming. We headed down and then caught a train to Wilderswil for what would be a major mistake. We then took a train up to Schynigge Platte which would have been fine except the train is a 1 hour ride one way and by the time we got there it was also the last train back down! So we had about 3 minutes to realize our error and then jump back in to accompany a bunch of revved up Teddyland children on their way back down. Then another train back to Lauterbrunnen--most train passages are very frequent and if not, there's always a cafe to spend time in. We recuperated that night with a very fine dinner at Hotel Silberhorn in Lauterbrunnen--outdoor dining and very nice service and meal.
Our third day found us retracing our steps to Mannlichen and then hiking the very gentle Panorama trail with great views of the north face of the Eiger and the rest. Klein Scheidig was abuzz with tourists on another clear warm day and most were heading up to the Jungfraujoch. We declined and spent some time gazing at the mountain looking for the climbers which had left the day before--didn't see them. But we did see a cow "fly"--actually the cow was in a harness and was picked up by helicopter and flown down into the valley below. Trains back to Wengen and Lauterbrunnen again. We then drove up to Trummelbach Falls and don't miss it! I think it was my wife's favorite of the trip. We capped off the day with a trip up to Murren and a sunset dinner on an outdoor terrace at Hotel Eiger---awesome scenery and good food.
The next day was moving day and we headed for Sigriswil, a tiny village not too far away on the north side of the Thunersee. It was up on the mountain and my wife had business for several days that I could not help with. We spent 4 nights in this very charming village and were hosted most graciously by the town and our business host. I escaped on our first drizzly day and hiked up into both the Ober and Unter glacier--the first is reached by climbing a serious set of stairways made out of logs and split wood over sheer rock and huge boulders. The second was reached by taking the Pfingstegg lift and then hiking to Stieregg, about 1 hour. I wanted to go farther but weather was still threatening and in fact came racing up the glacier valley as I reached Stieregg--amazing sight. The next day I again escaped and made my way to First and hiked to Faulhorn--about 2 1/2 hrs and very worthwhile. I met a caretaker there and he showed me the rooms at the hotel--gives definition to the word rustic. I would love to come back in the winter and sled the 17 km down to Grindlewald. Interesting mix on the deck of the hotel at Faulhorn, both men and women (and some kids) of all nationalities.
After our Sigriswil visit we spent 2 nights in Annecy and then 2 nights in Basel. We stopped on our way to Basel in Gruyeres and were turned off by the very touristy castle and village but did enjoy a visit to nearby Moleson where we watched cheesemaking the old way--open fire, copper kettles, smoky wood shacks and lots of milk. Then on to Broc to visit Cailler and sample the chocolate. Basel was a change of pace for us--the big city. We stayed at Hotel Rochat, near the altstadt and it was fine. Our primary goal was a visit to the Beyerler Foundation and the Puppenhausmuseum which was quite easy with the aid of the free transit pass which came with our hotel room. The Beyerler had a wonderful Klee exhibition as well as regular exhibits and the Puppenhausmuseum was equally fantastic for those inclined to doll and teddys--my wife's interest and business. We chilled out for a while and decided to really challenge ourselves by going to the Kunstmuseum which turned out to be a fabulous "find'. We were really thrilled with the collection of fine art.
Overall impressions were that in spite of expense, you could finess with trips to the Coop and picnicing. Transportation is a major consideration and while a car was handy, you still need to factor in the unique kinds of transport available and necessary. Travelers have use of the most convenient and clean restrooms of anywhere I have ever travelled--even on top of remote mountains! Safety and security is never an issue except in all the various outdoor activities which you're bound to get lured into. We enjoyed our visit immensely and in spite of this long description, there were many, many memorable moments--we look forward to a return. If I can answer a question don't hesitate to ask.
Cheers, Paul
#2
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Now I remember you! The teddybear folks! Thanks for the very interesting report. I, for one, would like to learn more about Sigriswil. It really is tempting. One thing in particular: Can you see the lake from the village, and are there views of the Jungfrau, etc.? On my last visit, I stayed in Leissigen (so you know I like small places), and my only wish is that there had been better mountain views in addition to the lake views out my window, (but I was obviously facing the wrong direction). Thanks, J.
#4
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Dear J.--Glad you enjoyed the report. Sorry about the long paragraphs, something changed and I lost some breaks when I transferred the text but I should have reviewed.
Sigriswil was a delight--very small but facing south and yes, it had views of the Thunersee, Mt. Thiesen and the south side villages and mountains. The convention was spread out through the town with my wife located in the schulhaus and others at the fire station, Baren Hotel (where we stayed) and other communal buildings. The mayor came out and gave a speech before the "world's smallest museum"--4 square meters and welcomed us all while we were there. There are a couple of hotels but private rentals would be the way to go if it is convenient.
Re views: We had several dinners in the evening during the sunset hours and the views were both beautiful and dynamic as we could watch evening thunderstorms come from the south and sweep across the mountains and lake with lightning and thunder and some rain--spectacular! There was a special gorge nearby recommended to me by locals but I didn't get a chance to hike into it--maybe next time. Sigriswil was only about 20-25 mins. from Thun.
Cheers, Paul
Sigriswil was a delight--very small but facing south and yes, it had views of the Thunersee, Mt. Thiesen and the south side villages and mountains. The convention was spread out through the town with my wife located in the schulhaus and others at the fire station, Baren Hotel (where we stayed) and other communal buildings. The mayor came out and gave a speech before the "world's smallest museum"--4 square meters and welcomed us all while we were there. There are a couple of hotels but private rentals would be the way to go if it is convenient.
Re views: We had several dinners in the evening during the sunset hours and the views were both beautiful and dynamic as we could watch evening thunderstorms come from the south and sweep across the mountains and lake with lightning and thunder and some rain--spectacular! There was a special gorge nearby recommended to me by locals but I didn't get a chance to hike into it--maybe next time. Sigriswil was only about 20-25 mins. from Thun.
Cheers, Paul
#5

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Paul,
Thanks for the wonderful report!! Your delightful descriptions make me yearn to spend a week each in Thun and Lauterbrunnen; Lauterbrunnen is really getting some great press these days. I like your descriptions of your walks too!
So thanks for giving me a slice of Suisse this Sunday!
s
Thanks for the wonderful report!! Your delightful descriptions make me yearn to spend a week each in Thun and Lauterbrunnen; Lauterbrunnen is really getting some great press these days. I like your descriptions of your walks too!
So thanks for giving me a slice of Suisse this Sunday!
s
#6
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Paul,
Thanks for the GREAT trip report!
Glad to hear you enjoyed Trümmelbach Falls - I feel they don't get mentioned often enough on this board. They're an especially good alternative on a rainy day, when you're going to get wet anyway
I also saw the Klee exhibition at the Beyeler (last weekend) and enjoyed it immensely.
How did you enjoy the french part of the trip (Annecy & Colmar)?
Andre
Thanks for the GREAT trip report!
Glad to hear you enjoyed Trümmelbach Falls - I feel they don't get mentioned often enough on this board. They're an especially good alternative on a rainy day, when you're going to get wet anyway

I also saw the Klee exhibition at the Beyeler (last weekend) and enjoyed it immensely.
How did you enjoy the french part of the trip (Annecy & Colmar)?
Andre
#7

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Thanks for this wonderful trip report. I also loved Thun and stayed in Lauterbrunnen (Hotel Oberland) before. Your report brings back wonderful memories!
BTW, I will probably be in the Bernese Oberland from next Thursday on
Time for packing!
Ingo
BTW, I will probably be in the Bernese Oberland from next Thursday on
Time for packing!Ingo
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#8
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Andre--I agree with your thoughts on Trummelbach Falls in the Lauterbrunnen Valley. They are uniquely spectacular and in the most scenic of settings i.e. the valley with all its grandeur.
Re: Annecy and Colmar. We have been to various parts of France over the last several years but, never Annecy. Maybe it was the fact that we had just been in the Alps and driven through Chamonix (very crowded and overrun) on our way, but we are not likely to go back. We did enjoy the lake, the scenery and the views but did not find it stimulating. We stayed in the tourist zone which was fine but very crowded with local tourists and it was very warm. We just felt that there was little of the usual cutural attractions and we wanted to escape the crowds. We did rent a paddleboat and had a nice time paddling about the lake and viewing things from that perspective--highly recommend it. And we did drive to Tallories for an evening sunset picnic while we watched the locals finish their waterplay and prepare for their three star michelin dining experiences--another pleasant evening. Hope I don't sound shrill but in all my research I couldn't come up with much else to do and we feel like we've done it.
Re: Annecy and Colmar. We have been to various parts of France over the last several years but, never Annecy. Maybe it was the fact that we had just been in the Alps and driven through Chamonix (very crowded and overrun) on our way, but we are not likely to go back. We did enjoy the lake, the scenery and the views but did not find it stimulating. We stayed in the tourist zone which was fine but very crowded with local tourists and it was very warm. We just felt that there was little of the usual cutural attractions and we wanted to escape the crowds. We did rent a paddleboat and had a nice time paddling about the lake and viewing things from that perspective--highly recommend it. And we did drive to Tallories for an evening sunset picnic while we watched the locals finish their waterplay and prepare for their three star michelin dining experiences--another pleasant evening. Hope I don't sound shrill but in all my research I couldn't come up with much else to do and we feel like we've done it.
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Re: Colmar. This is a place we continue to return to and enjoy. This visit included visits to the Bartholdi Museum (empty and no english handouts or descriptions) and the Unterlinden Museum. The Issenheim Altarpiece was as special as advertised and I left with wonderment about Grunewald's masterpiece--so far ahead of his time! We also indulged in my vice by checking out several vignerons and sampling their offerings--in some ways it is a complex area to get a handle on. There was much activty also because of the impending harvest which was beginning the follwing week historically early. And as always there is the cuisine which I favor even though we did not splurge on this visit.
Thanks for asking -- Cheers Paul
Thanks for asking -- Cheers Paul
#10
Joined: Feb 2003
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Next time you are in Colmar, pop down to Mulhouse and tour the greatest automobile museum in the world! The Musee National De L' Austomobile-Collection Schlumpf, 192 Avenue De Colmar, contains hundreds of vintage autos in pristine condition. Included is a large collection of beautiful Buggatti's. Allow a half day for this delight.
Regards,
Jinx Hoover
Regards,
Jinx Hoover
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