Trip Report: Last Part: Norfolk Island
Jul 7th, 2006, 04:57 PM
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Trip Report: Last Part: Norfolk Island
I don’t remember when we got interested in Norfolk Island – several years ago we discovered Colleen McCullough lives there and we knew something of the Bounty mutiny through books and film. We also suspected Americans did not get there as a rule. We passed it up in 2004 in favor of the GBR, so this was the year to go. Sometime last October I wrote a casual email to the Norfolk Island Tourist board that said something like, ‘OK we’re Americans and you probably don’t see very many of us, but we’d like to come, and by the way, what’s this Bounty Day holiday you have in June?” Very nearly immediately there was a reply from Rebecca Christian (yes, as in Fletcher) from the Travel Centre, along with pages of information, saying basically you’re right, we don’t get Americans, but we’d love to have you and 2006 is a very big deal for Bounty Day because it is the 150th anniversary of the settlement of Norfolk by the descendants of the Bounty. Well, we’re pretty intrigued by that. Let me say now that we are neither Bligh or Bounty scholars, but we are really interested in other people’s history, and proceeded to let the Travel Centre book us an entire week on Norfolk, beginning with Bounty Day, June 8.
This is a travel board, I know, but the rest of this will make less sense without a small bit of background. So: After the mutiny, Fletcher Christian sailed the Bounty back to Tahiti, dropped off 16 of his mates who wanted to stay, picked up some Tahitians including his own wife, and set sail for somewhere safe. They find Pitcairn Island, which is 200 miles off the charts from where it is supposed to be, so they burn the Bounty and settle in. Christian is murdered within the first five years, others die, but all have descendants. Eighteen years later, an American whaler finds Pitcairn by chance, but now there is only one mutineer, John Adams, left. By 1850 or so, Pitcairn has become vastly too small for all these people, and knowing that Norfolk’s terrible penal colony is being closed down in favor of Port Arthur, the islanders petition Queen Victoria to be transferred to Norfolk. She agrees, conveys each of the nine families 50 acres of land, and the Crown provides transport for 194 people, 106 of which are children, to Norfolk. They arrive June 8, 1856. Today’s population of 1800 on an island 8km by 5 km remains about 40% the direct descendants of these nine families. There are so many of the same last name that the local phone book lists their nicknames.
Getting there: Norfolk lies in the middle of the South Pacific and you get there either by Air NZ from Auckland or by government charter from Sydney or Brisbane. It’s closer to NZ by an hour, and that’s what we’ve chosen. As an External Territory of Australia, Norfolk immigration requires an Australian entry visa, a booked accommodation, and an onward ticket. Since planes only arrive on Wednesday and Saturday, islanders come to the airport and wave to arrivals. We’re told that’s how they know the tourists – they don’t wave back.
Most accommodation is in vacation apartments, and many of those come with a rental car. The owner of our apartment at Bounty Lodge, Glen Elliot, meets us at the airport. He takes our Visa for the $A84 we are being charged for insurance and licensing, and sends us five minutes down the road to our lodging. The one-bedroom apartment is great, looks out over a beautiful valley, and has a full-kitchen, king bedroom, nice bath. There’s a washing machine on the complex, too. Travel Centre has provided all of our breakfast provisions. Because Bounty Day is the next day and nothing will be open, Foodland, the only grocery store, has agreed to stay open tonight until 7 pm. They actually announce this on the plane. My seatmate, herself a descendant, has recommended dinner at the bowling club, which is right across the street from Foodland in the main town of Burnt Pine. We are not expecting lawn bowling, but that’s what it is, and people just line up at the counter to order tonight’s fish and chips and choose a table. It’s just fine, and reasonably priced.
Things to see and do: Norfolk Island is one of the most beautiful places we’ve been. It reminds me of Kauai, in our state of Hawaii, except with Norfolk Pines. Stunning cliff views, crashing waves on rocks, frothy white against the shore, emerald green pastures, and Caribbean-like seas. The trees are immense: after nearly clearing the whole island of them to build structures, Norfolk realized their conservation value. Each year 500 are harvested and 5,000 planted. The roads are fine, if two lane and somewhat hilly (certainly no worse than Tasmania) and everyone waves as you pass. Cows have the right of way.
I couldn’t imagine what we’d do for an entire week, but our time was filled. We are definitively not organized tour people, but it seemed the most logical way to see and learn and Pinetree Tours was fantastic. We did a half-day orientation tour all over the island, which included a look at Colleen McCullough’s driveway; a tour of five different residents’ gardens and a nursery, an excursion to see newly emerging industries besides tourism that included a quarter horse operation on only five acres, the island pottery, the largest kentia palm exporter in the world, the chocolate factory and a boutique winery just getting started. Each tour stopped for tea midway at someone’s beautiful home or at a place with outstanding scenery. Our guides were professional, hugely informative and funny. We enjoyed a progressive dinner one night that was held across four islander homes where we met the hosts, learned about their mutineer ancestors, and how the homes were built – delightful.
The historic area of Kingston includes all of the convict built remains of the penal colony closed in 1855, three wonderful museums with artifacts from three periods of occupation; one called 10 Quality Row is an island home that was built about 1820 and was the first home on Norfolk for Isaac Christian, grandson of Fletcher, when he arrived from Pitcairn with his wife and 10 children. Another five were subsequently born on Norfolk. This is a beautiful area of stone buildings, long stretches of grass, big hills, the huge pines, and a resident flock of gray geese, all facing the Pacific. The old graveyard is here, too, with the graves of the nine families, convicts, overseers. All the headstones face the sea – it seems quite melancholy. There are exquisite beaches here too, which draw many visitors in summer.
Food: There are 35 restaurants and cafes on this very small island! Some of the food is absolutely wonderful, some is mediocre. We had delicious meals on outside verandas of local fish and vegetables at Hilli’s and The Homestead, on the 100 Acres Farm. In Burnt Pine, Café Tempo and Norfolk Island Coffee Company provide homemade soups, pastas and pies at reasonable prices.
Shopping: This is tax-free heaven – more than 70 duty free stores. This apparently is one of the main tourist draws from Australia and New Zealand.
On our last day, Glen lets us have the apartment until 4:30 in the afternoon, and in fact we drive the car to the airport, and just leave the keys under the mat. Our flight will leave at 5:30; we’ll connect through Auckland to Los Angeles. A woman who has just come to watch the plane leave takes our last picture. She was a sheriff’s deputy in western Australia until March when she came to Norfolk on vacation and decided to stay. She is cleaning rooms and waiting tables and has no regrets about moving to paradise.
Suddenly, the big Air New Zealand plane pulls into view. It’s time to go. This time we wave.
Cheers, everybody.
OliverandHarry
Previously posted: Part 1 – Tasmania
Part 2: Sydney
This is a travel board, I know, but the rest of this will make less sense without a small bit of background. So: After the mutiny, Fletcher Christian sailed the Bounty back to Tahiti, dropped off 16 of his mates who wanted to stay, picked up some Tahitians including his own wife, and set sail for somewhere safe. They find Pitcairn Island, which is 200 miles off the charts from where it is supposed to be, so they burn the Bounty and settle in. Christian is murdered within the first five years, others die, but all have descendants. Eighteen years later, an American whaler finds Pitcairn by chance, but now there is only one mutineer, John Adams, left. By 1850 or so, Pitcairn has become vastly too small for all these people, and knowing that Norfolk’s terrible penal colony is being closed down in favor of Port Arthur, the islanders petition Queen Victoria to be transferred to Norfolk. She agrees, conveys each of the nine families 50 acres of land, and the Crown provides transport for 194 people, 106 of which are children, to Norfolk. They arrive June 8, 1856. Today’s population of 1800 on an island 8km by 5 km remains about 40% the direct descendants of these nine families. There are so many of the same last name that the local phone book lists their nicknames.
Getting there: Norfolk lies in the middle of the South Pacific and you get there either by Air NZ from Auckland or by government charter from Sydney or Brisbane. It’s closer to NZ by an hour, and that’s what we’ve chosen. As an External Territory of Australia, Norfolk immigration requires an Australian entry visa, a booked accommodation, and an onward ticket. Since planes only arrive on Wednesday and Saturday, islanders come to the airport and wave to arrivals. We’re told that’s how they know the tourists – they don’t wave back.
Most accommodation is in vacation apartments, and many of those come with a rental car. The owner of our apartment at Bounty Lodge, Glen Elliot, meets us at the airport. He takes our Visa for the $A84 we are being charged for insurance and licensing, and sends us five minutes down the road to our lodging. The one-bedroom apartment is great, looks out over a beautiful valley, and has a full-kitchen, king bedroom, nice bath. There’s a washing machine on the complex, too. Travel Centre has provided all of our breakfast provisions. Because Bounty Day is the next day and nothing will be open, Foodland, the only grocery store, has agreed to stay open tonight until 7 pm. They actually announce this on the plane. My seatmate, herself a descendant, has recommended dinner at the bowling club, which is right across the street from Foodland in the main town of Burnt Pine. We are not expecting lawn bowling, but that’s what it is, and people just line up at the counter to order tonight’s fish and chips and choose a table. It’s just fine, and reasonably priced.
Things to see and do: Norfolk Island is one of the most beautiful places we’ve been. It reminds me of Kauai, in our state of Hawaii, except with Norfolk Pines. Stunning cliff views, crashing waves on rocks, frothy white against the shore, emerald green pastures, and Caribbean-like seas. The trees are immense: after nearly clearing the whole island of them to build structures, Norfolk realized their conservation value. Each year 500 are harvested and 5,000 planted. The roads are fine, if two lane and somewhat hilly (certainly no worse than Tasmania) and everyone waves as you pass. Cows have the right of way.
I couldn’t imagine what we’d do for an entire week, but our time was filled. We are definitively not organized tour people, but it seemed the most logical way to see and learn and Pinetree Tours was fantastic. We did a half-day orientation tour all over the island, which included a look at Colleen McCullough’s driveway; a tour of five different residents’ gardens and a nursery, an excursion to see newly emerging industries besides tourism that included a quarter horse operation on only five acres, the island pottery, the largest kentia palm exporter in the world, the chocolate factory and a boutique winery just getting started. Each tour stopped for tea midway at someone’s beautiful home or at a place with outstanding scenery. Our guides were professional, hugely informative and funny. We enjoyed a progressive dinner one night that was held across four islander homes where we met the hosts, learned about their mutineer ancestors, and how the homes were built – delightful.
The historic area of Kingston includes all of the convict built remains of the penal colony closed in 1855, three wonderful museums with artifacts from three periods of occupation; one called 10 Quality Row is an island home that was built about 1820 and was the first home on Norfolk for Isaac Christian, grandson of Fletcher, when he arrived from Pitcairn with his wife and 10 children. Another five were subsequently born on Norfolk. This is a beautiful area of stone buildings, long stretches of grass, big hills, the huge pines, and a resident flock of gray geese, all facing the Pacific. The old graveyard is here, too, with the graves of the nine families, convicts, overseers. All the headstones face the sea – it seems quite melancholy. There are exquisite beaches here too, which draw many visitors in summer.
Food: There are 35 restaurants and cafes on this very small island! Some of the food is absolutely wonderful, some is mediocre. We had delicious meals on outside verandas of local fish and vegetables at Hilli’s and The Homestead, on the 100 Acres Farm. In Burnt Pine, Café Tempo and Norfolk Island Coffee Company provide homemade soups, pastas and pies at reasonable prices.
Shopping: This is tax-free heaven – more than 70 duty free stores. This apparently is one of the main tourist draws from Australia and New Zealand.
On our last day, Glen lets us have the apartment until 4:30 in the afternoon, and in fact we drive the car to the airport, and just leave the keys under the mat. Our flight will leave at 5:30; we’ll connect through Auckland to Los Angeles. A woman who has just come to watch the plane leave takes our last picture. She was a sheriff’s deputy in western Australia until March when she came to Norfolk on vacation and decided to stay. She is cleaning rooms and waiting tables and has no regrets about moving to paradise.
Suddenly, the big Air New Zealand plane pulls into view. It’s time to go. This time we wave.
Cheers, everybody.
OliverandHarry
Previously posted: Part 1 – Tasmania
Part 2: Sydney
Jul 7th, 2006, 08:11 PM
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Hi Oliverandharry,
Thanks for a wonderful report!
I knew little of Norfolk Island (except where it was and some sketchy history).
Have you read Tony Horowitz's book, "Blue Lattitudes"? Sounds like the sort of thing you might enjoy!
Regards,
Melodie
Thanks for a wonderful report!
I knew little of Norfolk Island (except where it was and some sketchy history).
Have you read Tony Horowitz's book, "Blue Lattitudes"? Sounds like the sort of thing you might enjoy!
Regards,
Melodie
Jul 8th, 2006, 02:08 PM
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We have read "Blue Latitudes" and enjoyed it as well as Caroline Alexander's "The Bounty", which paints a somewhat more even portrait of both William Bligh and Fletcher Christian.
Jul 8th, 2006, 07:07 PM
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Thanks so much for all three parts of your trip report! I read the Tasmania section with amazement and was hardly breathing by the time I reached the end. As a result we are working at least five days in Tasmania into our our month-long October trip and I'll be traveling with a printed copy of your report in my lap. Thanks again for a wonderful report.
Aug 24th, 2006, 12:05 AM
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Hi OliverandHarry,
Have just discovered your message when I was looking for something else.
My husband and I (no we are not royalty!) are heading there for 10 days late September. I have heard a lot about Norfolk as my brother and sister-in-law have been going there for many years but never been there. I have done a lot of research (hard to talk to my bro as he lives in England these days) and had wondered about the Progressive Dinner. Good to read your brief report about it. Will definitely now include it in our schedule. We are looking forward to the rest, and walking our way around the island. We have organised a rental too. Thanks too for the tip about waving to the islanders coming to meet the plane!
We are so looking forward to something quite different.
I have also been looking at what Pinetree Tours offered in the way of tours, especialy the garden tours, and was quite impressed with what I have read. So we will go with them, thanks to your recommendation.
I have been so busy this term at school I have not had time to peruse Fodors which is why I missed your posting.
Thanks again for the info.
Dot
Have just discovered your message when I was looking for something else.
My husband and I (no we are not royalty!) are heading there for 10 days late September. I have heard a lot about Norfolk as my brother and sister-in-law have been going there for many years but never been there. I have done a lot of research (hard to talk to my bro as he lives in England these days) and had wondered about the Progressive Dinner. Good to read your brief report about it. Will definitely now include it in our schedule. We are looking forward to the rest, and walking our way around the island. We have organised a rental too. Thanks too for the tip about waving to the islanders coming to meet the plane!
We are so looking forward to something quite different.
I have also been looking at what Pinetree Tours offered in the way of tours, especialy the garden tours, and was quite impressed with what I have read. So we will go with them, thanks to your recommendation.
I have been so busy this term at school I have not had time to peruse Fodors which is why I missed your posting.
Thanks again for the info.
Dot
Aug 24th, 2006, 04:53 AM
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Dot,
How terrific that you are headed for Norfolk! I would highly recommend you take the Half Day Orientation Tour that Pinetree does. It is just excellent. The food on the progressive won't knock you out, but it's a fun experience and you get to meet islanders and interesting other people. Let us know how you liked it!
How terrific that you are headed for Norfolk! I would highly recommend you take the Half Day Orientation Tour that Pinetree does. It is just excellent. The food on the progressive won't knock you out, but it's a fun experience and you get to meet islanders and interesting other people. Let us know how you liked it!
Dec 31st, 2006, 02:20 PM
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Elizabeth,
Our entire Norfolk Island jaunt was arranged by Rebecca Christian and Christen Ross of the Travel Centre on Norfolk Island (www.travelcentre.nf) I am not sure if it is even possible to arrange your own accomodations. Our week, including RT airfare from Auckland, 7 nights lodging and the car, was about $1,500 total for two. We paid in NZ dollars, but if we had been traveling from Oz it would have been in Australian dollars. It is closer and thereby cheaper from NZ, so much so that we flew SYD-AUK-Norfolk the same day. Leaving we flew Norfolk-AUK-LAX. Here is a website that has some pictures of Bounty Lodge, and many other accommodations.
http://www.nfacc.relaxaway.com/accab/accbl.htm
It is possible that Glen and his wife are on holiday, but someone at the Travel Centre should be able to help you. Tell them Kelly and Dave Felice sent you - we were the sole Americans for a week, and it was probably my 15 minutes of fame!
Our entire Norfolk Island jaunt was arranged by Rebecca Christian and Christen Ross of the Travel Centre on Norfolk Island (www.travelcentre.nf) I am not sure if it is even possible to arrange your own accomodations. Our week, including RT airfare from Auckland, 7 nights lodging and the car, was about $1,500 total for two. We paid in NZ dollars, but if we had been traveling from Oz it would have been in Australian dollars. It is closer and thereby cheaper from NZ, so much so that we flew SYD-AUK-Norfolk the same day. Leaving we flew Norfolk-AUK-LAX. Here is a website that has some pictures of Bounty Lodge, and many other accommodations.
http://www.nfacc.relaxaway.com/accab/accbl.htm
It is possible that Glen and his wife are on holiday, but someone at the Travel Centre should be able to help you. Tell them Kelly and Dave Felice sent you - we were the sole Americans for a week, and it was probably my 15 minutes of fame!
Jan 1st, 2007, 01:45 PM
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oliverandharry - thanks for the link - I've emailed them regarding accommodation. Our airfare is already in place as part of our Star Alliance Circle Pacific airpass so we only need accommodation/car - I hope they can help us with that - Happy New Year!
Jan 2nd, 2007, 08:30 AM
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Elizabeth, Terrific, let us know where you choose. Are you staying a week?
A/D, hope your luck with a Norfolk pine is better than ours (assuming it's in a pot). They do NOT like Denver's dry climate!
A/D, hope your luck with a Norfolk pine is better than ours (assuming it's in a pot). They do NOT like Denver's dry climate!
Jan 2nd, 2007, 09:47 AM
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oliver and harry - no, unfortunately we're only staying 4 nights (Wed-Sat) - Christan suggested the Kentia Holiday Apartments - do you know it? It's twice what we wanted to spend - perhaps our budget was out of whack!
Re weather - well, here in Toronto there's green grass and I just got back from shopping wearing a light jacket - weird!
Re weather - well, here in Toronto there's green grass and I just got back from shopping wearing a light jacket - weird!
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