I got back from a 4-night stay Heron Island a few weeks ago. I travelled there on a Circle Pacific ticket (American, Qantas, BA) with stops in Sydney, Gladstone (near HI), Singapore and LA.

Although Heron Island Resort will not suit everyone, I thought it was a wonderful place. It is a very friendly, low-key resort where staff and most guests celebrate the diversity of, and respect, the wildlife. It won't suit everyone because, despite the high prices, most of the accommodation is closer to 3* (and at the upper end, 4*). There is no air conditioning (although it wasn't needed in Novmeber because there are strong breezes). I'm glad I paid a little more for a water-side reef suite instead of an inland turtle room (better access to breezes, plus a nice view; some turtle rooms must feel like you're in a hut in someone else's backyard). There are few "energy-guzzling" devices (no TVs in the rooms, no telephones, no gymnasium), no "evening disco", etc. There are no screens (the biting bug population is relatively low - but still exists). In November, you share the island with about 150,000 nesting birds, which make a lot of noise and probably will poop on you at least once. The mostly young staff works very hard and tries to please, but they aren't always the most professional.

But this is exactly the place I wanted to be. Having to wash off the bird droppings was a price worth paying in order to watch baby chicks hatch in the tree outside my room (they seemed to visibly grow from day to day). I'd rather spend several hours on the shore at night watching turtles lay eggs than attend a disco (next time, however, I will wear more bug repellent). I'd rather wear earplugs to drown out the oddly ghostlike sounds of the nesting mutton birds than have to wear ear plugs to drown out my neighbour's TV. I'd rather eat very high quality food (in moderate portions) than piles of mediocre food. And the diving and snorkelling were spectacular.

Also, I was very comfortable there as a single traveller. The guests were very friendly and interesting. It was easy to talk to others, and many people went out of their way to include me in conversations, activities and meals. I was alone when I wanted to be, and could find people to talk to (or swim with) whenever I needed to.

My only complaint is that I wish they had made it clearer in their literature that the per-day price did not include most drinks (not even coffee, unless you were willing to drink instant coffee). They offered juice and water for free at breakfast, and water at lunch and dinner (plus tea and instant coffee). Otherwise you had to pay extra for the drinks (alcoholic and non-alcoholic). I can understand why - they have to ship everything over from the mainland, and ship all of the waste back (and the place is very expensive to run). This policy also limits the amount of littering (you don't see plastic cups abandoned all over the place, like you see at truly all-inclusive resorts). Still, I'd prefer it if they made this clearer (or included a few free "drink" tickets in the price of the accommodation, even if it raised the accommodation price by $10 a day).

This is a minor complaint, though, and I'd highly recommend the resort to people who are looking for the kind of experience described above. Heron Island ranks at the top of my list of extraordinary holidays.

By the way, I opted for the helicopter in both directions to maximize my vacation time on this trip. Although it's expensive, you should definitely consider the helicopter if you have any tendency to seasickness - I've heard that the boat ride over can be brutal.

Kate: An honest and objective accessment of one of my favorite places in Australia. My only comment is to say that birds are not always a "problem" on Heron - things quieten down considerably in the winter months. I've yet to get pooped on, after 5 trips.

Kate, your posting brought back so many wonderful memories of my stay on Heron Island. As you said, its not for every tourist, who is seeking out 5 star hotels, room service to boot, discos, etc, etc, its all about living with nature, and experiencing what nature has to offer.

Funny I was just thinking of Heron Island today, it was my best friends absolutely favourite place for diving, and she had been to a lot of places.

We were there in November (10-14) as well and liked it a lot. Would agree that you wouldn't want to stay in those inland rooms without the breezes because they could be quite warm. We opted for the helicopter as well--what a beautiful 30 minute trip. We caught the Tilt Train when we returned to Gladstone for our trip to Noosa. A day later we would not have been able to as the Tilt Train crashed south of Gladstone the next day and closed the tracks down for a few days. How ANYONE survived that train wreck (let alone NO FATALITIES) is a miracle.

My eldest son, who lives permanently in London, sent me a Christmas present....a book called, "Unforgettable places to visit before you die" by Steve Davey (BBC book), and guess the only destination on the barrier reef given in the book, yes, you guessed right, HERON ISLAND.
I telephoned my son on Christmas Day, and I said, "I am still young and I hope to visit all the places mentioned the book" before I cark it.
Up to date, I have visited 5 listed places, including Heron Island.

Hey Tropo
I guess Hervey Bay was an automatic selection!

johhau - No, as much as I love Hervey Bay and the Wide Bay region, it wasn't mentioned in the book.
I have a relative staying with us from Perth, and he was quite taken with the Bay area, liked all the trees along the foreshore, and not ugly high rise apartments or resorts. He was also amazed to the friendliness of both locals & visitors, something which you don't see in large cities, or other major tourists areas. We keep meeting people who are relocating from south east Queensland, because of the large number of people who live there, and the associated problems that comes with over population.
Hey, did you happen to see on Qld's Channel 10, that the 3 hot real estate locations for 2005, are Mackay, Hervey Bay and Bargara at Bundaberg. I wonder if we can slow that down, as we don't want to end up with south east queensland.

And the news here for the new Year is that the 3 hot real estate locations in NSW are Gillies Road, Scotland Island and Govett's Leap.

A/D

Gee Andrew, after that listing of yours, for the 3 hot real estate areas, no wonder people in NSW are moving in droves to Queensland!

Like most travel writers - with the exception of Bill Bryson and a few others - I would guess Trop that the "to and from" has either not been to the rest of the Barrier Reef or not been to the GBR at all if Heron is the only place he can come up with as the best the GBR has to offer. Unfortunately these people often write with third hand knowledge at best or for financial reasons at worst.
Mind you I am not bucketing Heron Island I just think that the GBR being 2,500 klms long has a lot more to offer than that.
But then again if I were to write a travelogue on the UK I would always note that the best place to visit was "Lands End"

LizF - I think you should read the book first, then comment. Like any book, people will "Differ" on the authors recommendations or otherwise. The author of this book, lists many fine locations around the world.
When he chose Heron Island (and nearby Wilson Island), he mentioned the "whole" of the GBR, as being truly unique, however, as he so rightly pointed out, and in his own words states, "Heron Island and nearby Wilson Island are unique in that they are true coral cays that offer accommodation and actually form part of the reef. This means that you can simply swim from their beaches to dive or snorkel on the Great Barrier Reef".
Now tell me, what other part of the GBR reef can you do that in? so its easy to understand his findings, when looking at the whole GBR in general.
P.S. please don't mention green island, can't stand the place.

Lady Elliot Island springs to mind Tropo.

tropo - the much maligned Green Island is only 27km from Cairns, no wonder its been "touristed out". Being so close it can offer half day trips. However, it is a true coral cay, apparently now in a natural state of deterioration. Coral cays don't last forever, they build up and break down, Green is in the breaking down stage, according to a geologist I know, and for this reason alone he finds it fascinating. But have you been to its eastern reef? Ocean Free, a yacht which takes max of 40 passengers sails there daily, it does not anchor on island and you won't see another soul unless you take its tender over to Green. Good snorkelling and diving on the eastern reef, lunch, morning and afternoon teas with a sail back to Cairns for AU$89pp.

Lizard whilst a continental island is so close to outer reef and Cod Hole and ribbon reef chains, which are probably the best-known dive spots on reef, that it doesn't matter. And there's good snorkelling and diving off the island as well.

The GBR may be 2500 km long, but that doesn't mean there are limitless possibilities for seeing it, especially if you want to stay right on it. Is Heron Island the "best" the GBR has to offer? Not sure exactly sure what Liz means by "best" - snorkeling?, diving? climate?, accommodation? food?, activities?, accessibility?, affordability? - but I will venture to say that although Heron may not be the absolute best in any or all these categories, in my opinion it it is THE BEST island option for seeing the GBR when you factor it all in. If money is no object, go to Lizard. If money is no object and having the reef at your doorstep is no big deal, go to Hayman. If money IS an object, you're not fussy about your accommodation, but you want great diving, go to Lady Elliot. If accessibility is the thing, go to Green...and so on.

There are many islands north of Cairns that are worthy of note and there are many coral cays in the chain of islands following the Qld coast. Ralph I note that you do not mention Hinchinbrook Island which in my opinion, and taking into consideration my many many visits to the reef both at the southern end and the northern end and a reasonable bit in the middle, is probably the one most likely to be the 'pick' of the bunch for just about all the reasons you mention, plus some.
I have dived off the quiet side of Green Island and it is beautiful and pristine, the cost of getting there is cheap and quick. However for my pick there are many little coral cays between Cairns and Townsville that are worthy of note and there are many uninhabited islands which you can stay on in and around The Whitsundays - all you need is a tent.
The GBR is an ecological wonder, it is not, at least to me, any particular "island - for whatever reason, it is the earth's largest living marine "home" and as such should be viewed as a whole because when man and his boats have gone the animals that live on the reef and the reef itself will still be there. It's a little like trying to decide which star in the heavens is the best to look at.

I've seen the rugged profile of Hinchinbrook Island from the coast a few times and have always wanted to pay it a visit. From what I've seen and read, it seems as if it would be a fabulous place to go, especially since I like bushwalking so much and since Hinchinbrook is so renowned for it. However, I did not mention it because, like most or all of the other "continental" islands (e.g., Dunk, Hamilton, Hayman, etc.), it lies closer to shore than to the reef proper. My impression, therefore, is that it is not the optimal island destination if seeing and experiencing the GBR is the priority. A bit pricey as well, as I recall.

OK here are the rates:
Heron Island with full board goes from $240 p/p per night to $470 p/p per night & rate varies for the type of room. Hinchinbrook is $165 for 4 people ( extra person $20 up to 7 people in a cabin without meals) and goes up to $355 p/p per night for full board in a Tree House or to occupy a tree house only for up to 5 people its $350 per night with no meals.
So there is not much difference between the two for a couple but for a family it is much cheaper on Hinchinbrook.
I agree Ralph that you do have to go a little way to scuba areas of the reef but there are regions off the island that you can snorkle and those include the feeding grounds of turtles and Dugongs. There are also small areas of reefs just off the island if all you want is snorkling.
The main reason that Hinchinbrook is not mentioned so much is that it is not owned by the large P&O group as is Heron and therefore does not get the spread of advertising coverage that they can afford. It did however win the 2004 Eco-tourism awards for Queensland as it has done in the past. Of course from Hinchinbrook you can visit a number of coral cays if you want but as there is so much to see and do on that island I doubt that you would have the time to go further afield. The number of people visiting the island is controlled and as its a big island you get the feel that you are the only one there. It is the gem of the Queensland coastal islands and perhaps its a good thing that it is a National Park and cannot be bought by P&O.

tropo,

Those 3 NSW locations were among the highlights of our 5 weeks down under.

I suspect people may leave NSW to cash in inflated real estate as people leave California.

Almost everyone we met in Tasmania had come down from Queensland. Given the state of the Tully River Crossing this made perfect sense to us.

I'm sure that values are rising in Stratford, Cairns in the vicinity of Lilybank B&B and the Garden Room.

AndrewDavid

PS: Pat please let Phoebe know our thoughts are with her and any family she has in Sri Lanka

Thanks Andrew - Phoebe closed the Garden Room for 3 weeks' well-deserved annual holiday just a couple of days before tsunami hit Sri Lanka - have no idea if she was going home for holiday, - as soon as Garden Room reopens will pass on your message