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Old Mar 30th, 2004, 02:31 PM
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Back from NZ!

I just got back from a wonderful two week trip to New Zealand - thanks in great part to this forum, and the advice everyone gave.

I did the whirlwind, really fast, short attention span, "if it's Tuesday, it must be Paihia" type of trip, which worked great for me. And I stayed mostly in hostels, most of which were beyond my expectations.

I'll post a full trip report over the next day, but first, I just wanted to thank everyone here for all their help.

-AB
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Old Mar 31st, 2004, 01:10 PM
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Trip report - not that anyone is reading this, but here it is:
Day 1: Well, I'm calling it Day 1 anyway, even though it might be day 2. I left LAX the night before, and landed in Auckland at 7:00 that morning. The light was just coming up and the sun was just beginning to rise. I made it through customs rather quickly (I was surprised at how fast it was, even with doing something to my tennis shoes) and called the rental car company. For the North Island, I used Omega Rental Cars - they gave me a great rate for a very good car with excellent gas mileage. The plan was to drive like mad - there are some places I probably could have taken a bus, but I thought that overall, the convenience would be easier with a car.

If you're going to learn to drive on the other side of the road by going on a 3 freeway trip, Sunday at 8am is exactly the time to do it. Luckily, Auckland drivers are very forgiving. And there weren't that many of them.

I drove north - my first stop was my first information center in Whangarei. I really had no idea what to expect or to ask for, so I didn't, just directions to a bank. As I discovered later, information centres are amazing. They've got everything, they know everything (or at least where to find it), and with one exception, they're willing to help you have a great trip. If you go, use the tourist information centres whenever you go to a town (and there's always going to be one, no matter how small the town). I left there, and went to my first waterfall in NZ, Whangarei falls - it takes a short walk to get the better views - take the walk.

I left there, and then headed further north to the Bay of Islands and found a hostel in Paihia called the Saltwater Lodge. It was gorgeous - bay views from all the rooms, clean, comfortable, I regretted I was only staying for the night. Then I walked up the beach, and back down, and took the boat over to Russell where I visited the church, it's very peaceful and calming, and a lovely place to spend time on a sunny afternoon. I also visited the Russell Museum and the bookbinders. I came back across to Paihia, booked the Cream trip for the following morning - and spent the evening around the shore. (I was not about to move the car again until the next day)

Day 2: I woke up early and went down to the shore to wait for the boat. The sand, in Paihia and Russell, is red. No one was able to tell me why - but it's really red, and makes a very pretty contrast with the sky and the sea. Then I got on the boat and did the famous Cream trip... it's everything the brochures said it would be. Beautiful views, we saw a seal (which set the tone for my wildlife photography on the trip - brown seal on brown rock. I'm pretty sure it's not going to turn out), we were able to do the hole in the rock. If you do it, take the scenic walk on the island - the views are terrific, the chocolate cake on the island is less so.
Also, small warning, I burned. I almost never use sunscreen (I know it's bad for me), I've burned maybe once before in my entire life, so I just don't think to. And as it wasn't that hot (70s or so), it didn't really occur to me that I should worry about anything. But at the end of the day, I had a slight sunburn - so sunscreen is in order.

After our tea, they had to bring us back to Paihia, I got into my car, and after a few misturns, I managed to find the highway and drive down to Auckland.

I stayed that night at the Base Backpackers - unless you're under 19, or in a band, don't. It was clean and it was generally ok, but I'm simply not that young anymore. I also visited the SkyTower, and got a beautiful view of the city at night. (However, I could have done without the extra view level).
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Old Mar 31st, 2004, 04:27 PM
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Please keep posting - lots of us like to read about your trip, in preparation for a trip of our own or just in memory of one past.
Martha
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Old Mar 31st, 2004, 07:32 PM
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AlphaBeta -

Yes, we're reading this. Please continue.
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Old Apr 1st, 2004, 09:59 AM
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Wow, people are reading. Thanks.

Day 3: Downtown Auckland is hard to navigate, but eventually I made my way out and south - it was a very sunny morning when I started my drive to Raglan, slightly out of Auckland, the sky went dark and everything became gray and foggy, and very deep and mysterious and pretty...this was the only place on the trip where I got lost on the highways, the signs to Raglan are not totally clear (you turn, and then you have to turn again, there are a few roundabouts without signs that would have been helpful). As I got closer to Raglan, the sun poked through again, for a nice, low 70s day. Which was perfect for me.
I spent the early afternoon wandering the town. There are a bunch of cute shops, and the people were incredibly nice, friendly, and outgoing. I had a nice lunch at the Saltrock Cafe, and then went to the place I was staying. Raglan Backpackers is amazing, the owners are nice and friendly, there's two comfortable lounges, a nice kitchen, and clean rooms, all built around a center court area with hammocks and patio furniture, a perfect place to sit and read and relax and laze on a sunny day. Which is exactly what I did, until later that afternoon. I drove out to the Raglan Surfing School (which is farther out than people who give you directions would have you believe) to take a surfing lesson. The views on the drive out are spectacular. Luckily the roads were near empty because I did just stop the car, get out and look - it's breathtaking, I have no idea why it's not overrun with tourists, but I'm happy it wasn't. After I got to the surfing school, they gave us indoor training for about an hour, then we drove back to the beach to try out the water on a simply gorgeous stretch of ocean. As it turns out, I am an incredibly awful surfer (I've done it before, and in Raglan, they even pushed us so we didn't have to catch the wave) but it's a fun way to spend 3 hours. We stayed in the green water, to keep it easier for everyone, and just went out waist high, tried to surf in, went back out over and over again until right before sunset...which was magnificent over NZs west coast (again, I couldn't drive straight back, but had to stop, get out, and watch...)

That evening, I had a great dinner at Costas Pizza (which was open late enough for me to get changed and dressed after hanging out in the ocean all evening) - and dropped to sleep.

Day 4: I woke up to the sound of rain. Not really heavy rain, but rain nonetheless, which was a bit of a danger for my plans that day - I drove out of Raglan, stopping at Bridal Veil falls (which also was farther away than the signs would suggest, and involved my first drive on the unsealed roads), but was worth it, possibly especially in the rain. Then I headed south to Waitomo - and the Famous Blackwater Rafting Co. The plan was to get there at 10:00, so I could go horseback riding then blackwater rafting...but the rain had, unfortunately, cancelled the horse trek - and instead, they moved me into an earlier blackwater trek, since it's raining, you may as well be in a cave. I had breakfast there, and the bacon was (to me an American) undercooked - but everywehre I went in NZ, the bacon was (to me an American) undercooked, just a warning. I did the Black Abyss - the longer, 5 hour trip. We abseiled into a cave, and then navigated through it for hours (that didn't seem like hours, it was so fun) saw glow worms, saw waterfalls, had a wonderful time! And then got a hot shower, soup, and bagels after the fact.
After I left, I checked into the Juno Backpackers right down the street - it felt like a log cabin, but a really cozy, warm, comfortable one, with a comfy lounge and nice bedrooms. Supposedly, there's a pool, but I didn't try that. I did try the trampoline!
That afternoon, I went to the Angora Rabbit place, and got some fabulous yarn, and then to the cave museum (admission free if you've gone on the blackwater trip) it was very interesting full of info about the caves and Waitomo area. Then I drove further out (I believe west) to the natural bridge and to Marokopa Falls - which were stunning. The sun poked through at exactly the right time, and lit them up beautifully. I made it back to town right before dark and rested for the night.
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Old Apr 1st, 2004, 03:45 PM
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Day 5: I left Waitomo and headed southeast - making what was to be a quick stop in Matamata to see Hobbiton, sadly, I found out the only way to do so was to go on an official LOTR tour - which took more time (and cost more) than I was willing to spend. From what I've heard, the tour is worth it, but I settled with merely taking a photograph of the "Welcome to Hobbiton" sign and the hobbit hole in front of the information centre. As it would turn out, my LOTR searching would go about as well as my nature photography as the trip went on.

Then I headed for Rotorua...I had the windows rolled down so that I could adjust slowly to the smell that I was told would overpower me - and it never came. Sure, it wasn't fresh and floral there, but it wasn't all that bad (hint to anyone who lives in the PacNW area of the US, Tacoma is much, much worse). Maybe it was the day, or the winds, but it was nothing near what I was warned about and had expected. My first stop was the Agrodome, as I wanted to go zorbing - until I saw it. And I decided to pass, maybe next time, because I'll definitely be back in Rotorua again someday. I also went to the "agro" part of the agrodome, saw some animals, got some chocolate, and picked up some great yarn. I was rather pleased.

Then, after stopping by the information centre, I went out to the Maori Arts & Crafts Institute - I arrived just after a tour started, so I joined in. I could have easily spent a day there just watching the weaving and carving. But the tour went on to the geothermal spots, and I followed, got to see the geysers, and kept wandering through the grounds after the tour ended (which I recommend). I left there, and went back towards the interesting gate I'd seen earlier - turns out it went to the baths and the Rotorua museum (which I'll also have to come back and visit - but at the moment, I was museumed out). I did, though like my stroll on the grounds - which are lovely - and through the rose garden (even in late fall, a few still had blooms).

After leaving, I finally checked in to my hostel (Rotorua Central Backpackers) which was again a great place to spend an evening, great staff, nice place. I walked around a bit, in town near the hostel, and then came back "home" so that I could make it in time to go to a hangi/concert that night.
I only went to one hangi/concert in NZ, and this was it - so I've really nothing to compare it to. But mine was amazing. I got to go with Tamaki tours who provided an excellent experience, from the explanation of what was going to happen on the bus ride down, to the introduction into the "village," to the full concert, to the excellent dinner, and simply great evening. (My only complaint would have been the people I was seated to dinner with - they weren't the friendliest people I'd ever met, but that's hardly Tamaki's fault) - including the bus ride back with songs from around the world. I absolutely recommend them.

Day 6: I had to get up early to leave Rotorua - alas... but I headed to Taupo, my first stop was Rock 'n' Ropes, a ropes course right before you get to the city.
Do this.
It was amazing - the staff were all helpful and friendly, while they were working me through my sheer terror of heights. With their help (and the help of the lovely english couple doing the course at the same time) I did things that I never thought I could do - including climbing up a 45 foot log and jumping out forever to catch a trapeze, or "The Giant Swing." They build you up to it, so everything works out.

I then went into town, and down to Lake Taupo to see where IronMan NZ is held - I'll do that someday, but this was not the year. I walked the lake front - and it's the clearest large lake I've ever seen. I left to go by the information centre where they booked me on a horse trip - on the way to the ride, I stopped and looked at Huka Falls which were this unbelievable color blue. And then to the horseback riding. I'd wanted to go on horseback, and I wanted to see Craters of the Moon, so I decided to combine them. That wasn't the greatest idea - the ground isn't really stable enough for the horses to get anywhere close to anything (why I didn't think of that, I don't know) so while it was a nice horseback ride, I ended up going back to Craters of the Moon anyway. If I had to do it again, I'd take the lake front horserides instead.

And then I left, I'd originally intended to spend the night in Taupo - but night was coming on...and it seemed like just as good of an idea to keep going and cut out some of the next day's driving, so I headed to Turangi and spent the night at the Extreme Backpackers - again, the owners were welcoming and friendly, the rooms were lovely, the lounge and kitchen were cozy.
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Old Apr 1st, 2004, 07:06 PM
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As a kiwi - on my trip to the USA, I thought the bacon was overcooked

I'm enjoying reading your trip report, it sounds like you had fun.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2004, 11:54 AM
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Christa, I had a wonderful time - it's an amazing country and I know I'm going back someday.

Day 7: I woke up and hit the road again, out to Pipiriki this time. I should have called ahead, and secured the trip before I left even, but I was expecting that it would all work out. I turned right at Raetihi (a small, small town, village almost) and kept driving, fully expecting that Pipiriki would be about the same size... shortly after, the road ended. Well, not exactly ended, but it was no longer paved, just gravel on a cliff side. Had I read the guidebook more carefully, I would have known that - sadly, I'd skimmed... but in that car, on that particular cliff, I really had no choice but to keep driving forward. And so I did - all the way to Pipiriki...which was even smaller than Raetihi. It's so small that I'm surprised it's been named - I went to one sign that offered jet boat trips, and she sent me to the dock, saying that the other jet boat tour operator might not have left yet. He hadn't. So I got a ride out to the Bridge. The scenery along the way is magnificent - and the jungle (it looked like a jungle even though it was officially a forest) at the bridge is splendid. It's amazing that anyone thought they could possibly settle there...
After a nice snack out on the bridge, we walked back to the jet boat and came to the docks. (Apparently you can book a lodge out in the area - we dropped one couple off there).
Then I began the drive to Wanganui, which was also mostly gravel, broken up with short 1/4 mile stretches of paved roads every time you hit a town. It's a very pretty drive, though. If you go, get gas when you leave National Park, because there isn't any until you get to Wanganui. I nearly rolled into that very first station. That night I stayed at the Braemer House YHA-hostel.

Day 8: Got up early and drove into Wellington - after a few missteps I got to Te Papa museum. What I had read said to leave 2 hours for the place - easily spent two days there. Admission is free, but you can buy a souvenier program ... which I could well have done without. The museum is great, a science, history, culture, and art museum all rolled into one. There's so much to see and it all rolls together and makes sense. After I tore myself away (really, I started to leave about 4 times when something caught my eye and I was drawn back in), I walked along the harbor a bit, then I drove out to the Parliament buildings. As it was Sunday, they weren't there - but the buildings are architecturally interesting. I then walked on Lambton Quay for a while and found out how expensive books are in NZ (I'm guessing that's why I saw such great libraries everywhere?), and then returned my rental car, was driven to the airport and flew to Hokitika.
So far as I can tell, it is impossible to rent a car in Hokitika for anything even approaching a reasonable price - and even if there were, there were no cars in the South Island that day. So I taxied up to Greymouth, picked up a car from Pegasus car rentals and drove back to Hokitika. I stayed that night in the Blue Spur Lodge - a backpackers a bit out of town (not as far a drive as it seems on the maps), very comfortable lodge and dorm room.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2004, 07:39 PM
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Hello AlphaBeta!

Have really enjoyed your trip report!

I loved your comment about Base Backpackers...."be 19 or in a band" to enjoy it -- too funny! If you're this "old" I applaud you for even doing the backpacker / hostel type accommodations. Good On Ya!

It sounds like you had some wonderful adventures and you write a really good, informative, entertaining description of your travels.

I SO agree with your description of Te Papa, and I don't know where you read to allot "2 hours", but I can't imagine doing that museum in that amount of time!

Regards,

Melodie
Certified Kiwi Specialist
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Old Apr 3rd, 2004, 10:02 AM
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Great!
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Old Apr 4th, 2004, 01:12 PM
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Thanks, AlphaBeta, for posting your report! I'm looking forward to reading more of it before my husband and I leave for NZ in two weeks.

You mentioned trying to see Lord of the Rings filming sites; I bought a copy of The Lord of the Rings Location Guide by Ian Brodie (who owns the warplane museum in Wanaka) to take along so we can find the places we'd like to see.

Lee Ann
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