Sam

I am looking forward to my 1st trip to Japan in a couple of months. My "to do" list includes among other things a sushi breakfast near the famous Tsukiji fish market. A travel agent told me that he found these sushi places dont cater to tourists and in fact are rude, just so you dont "waste" their time and table space. It was explained to me that tourists take their time ordering and eating and that cuts down on the amount of patrons they can serve. The nicer places will just say they are not open, while others will be very rude, hoping you wont want to patronize their restaurant. I was very sad to learn this and want to hear from our Japan experts on their experience. Any recommendations for a tourist friendly sushi place near Tsukiji?<BR>

Florence

Bonjour Sam,<BR><BR>I've never heard this before, but I'm somehow not very surprised. I've never been to Tsukiji early in the morning, and since I can speak some Japanese, I'm usually well received everywhere. However, I've often sensed some reluctance in busy restaurants at rush hour (like lunchtime and not only in Tsukiji), until it appeared I could speak the language and that I knew what I wanted. <BR><BR>I expect some tourists may have been refused service on the grounds you describe, plus the language barrier.<BR><BR>On the other hand, Tsukiji at dawn is a popular tourist attraction and I'm sure there must be at least a few places where foreigners are welcome, but I'm very sorry I can't help you further ...

Peter N-H

I did get up early one morning to go to Tsukiji, but I must admit I wondered why I did. Large produce markets can be found in any major city, with much the same bustle and the pungent odour of exhaust from trucks and fork-lifts. Tsukiji's difference is its concentration on dead fish. I saw no other foreigners on my visit, and I wasn't surprised--getting up at 5am isn't my idea of a holiday (although I was working, myself).<BR><BR>I did have a sushi breakfast without any difficulty, however. There's a line of small sushi bars not 'near' the market, but within it. I speak only about 30 words of Japanese, but I found no resistance at all--a seat at the counter was offered to me, and a sushi 'set' recommended, which meant that effectively they gave me what they felt like, and that was fine.<BR><BR>It was echt Japanese (but then there are very few made-for-foreigners ersatz experiences in Japan, which is one of its many charms), and the sushi was very fresh. But then it's very fresh everywhere in Tokyo, possibly because... they have such a large fish market so close at hand. I wasn't sorry to have visited Tsukiji, but I didn't really see the necessity to rise so early to have for breakfast what I would much rather have had for lunch. So although I've visited many places in Tokyo several times, I won't be returning to Tsukiji, which I think is one of those things a desperate writer included in some early guide book and which has accidentally thereby become one of the things to do, and which no other guide can now omit. Like touring a factory, or going backstage in a theatre, it has it's interest, but is lacking in charm.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

Peter N-H

I did get up early one morning to go to Tsukiji, but I must admit I wondered why I did. Large produce markets can be found in any major city, with much the same bustle and the pungent odour of exhaust from trucks and fork-lifts. Tsukiji's difference is its concentration on dead fish. I saw no other foreigners on my visit, and I wasn't surprised--getting up at 5am isn't my idea of a holiday (although I was working, myself).<BR><BR>I did have a sushi breakfast without any difficulty, however. There's a line of small sushi bars not 'near' the market, but within it. I speak only about 30 words of Japanese, but I found no resistance at all--a seat at the counter was offered to me, and a sushi 'set' recommended, which meant that effectively they gave me what they felt like, and that was fine.<BR><BR>It was echt Japanese (but then there are very few made-for-foreigners ersatz experiences in Japan, which is one of its many charms), and the sushi was very fresh. But then it's very fresh everywhere in Tokyo, possibly because... they have such a large fish market so close at hand. I wasn't sorry to have visited Tsukiji, but I didn't really see the necessity to rise so early to have for breakfast what I would much rather have had for lunch. So although I've visited many places in Tokyo several times, I won't be returning to Tsukiji, which I think is one of those things a desperate writer included in some early guide book and which has accidentally thereby become one of the things to do, and which no other guide can now omit. Like touring a factory, or going backstage in a theatre, it has it's interest, but is lacking in charm.<BR><BR>Oh, by the way. I won some approval for eating my sushi the traditional, 'proper' way, without chopsticks. Take piece of sushi from one end, thumb on one side, third finger on the other, and forefinger on top. Bend your wrist downwards so as to invert sushi, and dip one third of fish part only into your mixture of soya and wasabi, very briefly. Insert entire piece in mouth.<BR><BR>Peter N-H<BR>http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

nori

Generally we don't eat sushi nor sashimi for breakfast. Fish in Japanese breakfast is normally grilled. Just FYI. Of course you can eat whatever you like if you want though. <BR><BR>Florence, what is your breakfast like when you are visting Japan ?

Florence

Bonjour Nori,<BR><BR>Since I stay in small ryokans or with friends in Tokyo, I usually have a traditional Japanese breakfast: miso soup, rice, grilled fish, vegetable, etc. The only thing I can't eat is natto (but I've tried). I bought myself a rice-cooker and I often cook a Japanese breakfast (well, sort of ...) here too.

nori

Sam, sorry to hijack your thread but this is a brief reply to Florence. (but Sam, if you have other questions, she, me or others may be able to help.)<BR><BR>Florence, I used to know some Americans<BR>back in Japan who ate natto with mayonnaise.

Florence

More hijacking, sorry Sam ;-)<BR><BR>Nori, I'm not American and I don't like mayonnaise, although I can understand using absolutely anything to mask the smell and taste of natto ;-&gt;. I'm always amused when Japanese who on the other hand eat natto for breakfast complain of the smell of cheese ... but I know quite a few Japanese who can eat and enjoy even the smelliest of Roquefort or Munster, and some who would never, ever go near natto. Those are small cultural differences that make the charm of meeting different people and ways of life.

nori

Florence, I agree. And as far as I'm <BR>concerned, I eat both natto and European cheese though I'm not crazy about neither of them.

Sam

No apologizes needed. I have had natto on <BR>hot rice and loved it. The natto had grated fresh ginger, some chopped scallions and some soy sauce. Since Nori asked, I do have another question. Does anyone know where I can buy the old fashioned Hanafuda cards that are made of wood, and not the paper or cardboard type? We will be spending sometime in Kyoto where I heard some can be found.<BR>Our itinerary looks like this for now.<BR>Tokyo 4 nights<BR>Hakone 1 night<BR>Kyoto 4 nights<BR>Hiroshima 2 nights<BR>Tokyo 3 nights. <BR>Thank you for the information on Tsukiji.<BR>Sam

Florence

Sam,<BR><BR>for the hanafuda cards, I'd look in Tokyo Asakusa-Bashi area, a district devoted to traditional games and dolls (the street between Asakusa and Asakusa-bashi is lined by toy shops, many selling traditional ware), and maybe in Kyoto in the Shinmonzen/Furumonzen area where you'll find a concentration of antique shops (beware, it's a trap if you like antiques and crafts ;-). I've seen some in flea-markets and craft markets in Kyoto. Check the calendar at http://www.kyotoguide.com/index/index.html<BR><BR>This is typically the kind of questions you should ask at the TIC in Kyoto: they might even have a list of specialised shops.

nori

Really nice to know Japan connaisseurs here. Florence you are an expert whose detailed comments keep amazing me. And Sam, you enjoyed eating natto in a traditional way. Excellent ! But I wonder since this will be your 1st trip to Japan, where did you have the occasion ?

Florence

Nori,<BR><BR>Thanks for the compliment, but I'm sure you'd be surprised at the number of people in Geneva who are interested in Japan and far more knowlegeable than me.<BR><BR>I've been lucky to know Japanese people all my life (my best friend's mother is Japanese) and to be invited to stay with Japanese kendo friends on many occasions. That and my parent's interest in Asian arts and antiques gave me a strong interest in the country and its culture.<BR><BR>Now I'm trying to find some time during the week to improve my language skills ...

Josie

I have been to Tsukiji at 4AM (I declined the invitation to be there an hour earlier) and found it to be a bustling place. It is not a place for gawking tourists for sure. The fish market is at its busiest in the early morning hours with the fish coming in off boats and biddings going on for them to be shipped out to the shops. The customers, fishermen and patrons stop by the sushi shops for a quick fresh breakfast and have no time for dilly-dally socializing. They will run over tourists with their fish trolley if you are in their way; they probably don't like people wandering around aimlessly, even in sushi shops. It's an interesting experience to go through it, but Tsukiji is not a place for real "tourists."

Naomi

Hi Sam,<BR>I too have been to Tsukiji At 4 AM. Unlike the other posters, I thought it was a great experience. There were HUGE flash frozen tuna from all over the world (they are labeled as to where they were caught) being auctioned off and the bidders would feel for the fat content from the tail area that was cut open to show the fat concentration. There is every form of sea life available for sale at this large market. If you like seafood, it it a feast for the eyes. <BR>I also had a sushi breakfast at a shop in the market. I speak Japanese fluently but my husband and mother-in-law do not speak a word and the shop owner/sushi chef was not rude in any way as I translated and ordered for them. We tried some things we'd never had before and it was all delicious. Contrary to what was previously said, not every sushi shop in Japan has the best or freshest sushi. It doesn't get much better/fresher than at the fish market!<BR>I think it's a worthwhile experience to go to Tsukiji once...it is a little early to get up but we were all glad we went.

Sam

Thanks again for all your input. We will be staying in Ikeburo and I dont think we can make it to the market before sunrise. We probably will take the subway after rush hour and walk around Tsukiji, look for a sushi restaurant. The rest of the day is still questionable. Any ideas?

Florence

Hi Sam,<BR><BR>One interesting way to reach Tsukiji is to walk from Ginza (starting from the Kabukiza theatre - the subway station is Ginza 5-Chome, I think).<BR><BR>Behind (well, 15-20 min on foot) Tsukiji market is Hama-Rikyu gardens, well worth the visit, and you can then go to Asakusa by boat up the Sumida river. Not the most beautiful cruise you can thing of but an interesting way of discovering a part of Tokyo.